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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi !
I have clutch problems with my 690sm - it slips - again.

First time I put some washers under the springs, it helps and some time clutch dont slip. But not so long... I also tryed to put brand no springs, also new springs with washers...

Then I get nearly new clutch complect including clutch basket, cap, disks, springs etc. It was nice for ~3000-4000 km.

I buy from ebay some "tuning" springs which was 10% harder that KTM original + also put washers under them. Maybe it helpt little, but not much - slips all around.

I measured with micrometer and the thickness is in order. They are straight, not bent. Springs is in order.

Visualy lining disks and clutch disks sems realy ok. Only if the are polished and have not so much abrasive more. But brand new disks dont seems to be much more abrasive.

Ok, I do agressive riding, some whelies, etc, but clutch complect for some thousand km is not normal.

I have options to buy KTM original disk complect, buy from ebay some EBC ar similar aftermarket complect ar maybe sameone have ideas what to do whit that clutch ?!

Has anyone experience with non-ktm original disk complects ?!

Option to buy clutch complect from rally-raid machines is so expensive.

I read somewhere that people make extra custom-made plates under the clutch disks. Can anyone coment this ?!
 

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I suggest the following:

- Use the motorex recommended oil
- Change the lining disks and clean the metal disks from the oil
- Upshift without using the clutch (when going quick)
- Put the standard springs without any modifications

300v is one of the best oils, but it does make the clutch slip bit more, not a problem in most bikes, but makes a difference in some

The lining disks are propably toasted now, if they slip too much they will never go back to 100%. Plus, they have absorbed the previous oil.

I have not tried the EBC disks but why not? They cost less than half of the OEM ones..
 

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1st just use good oil. I have been using Repsol 10-50 full syn since day one with now 32,000 miles and replaced the clutch pack with a used OEM one off ebay at 16,000 miles. Zero problems with the clutch. I would also use stock springs and OEM clutch fibers and steels. Also when you install soak the plates for a couple hours before install and follow the OEM manual! EBC plates do not last long kinda like their brakes. I do change my oil around 1,500 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I think that Motul 300V is good oil - maybe it just does not work together with that clutch.

Also I forget to mention that I have different gear ratio - minus one for front sprocket.

I don't now, but even with brand new clutch there is feeling that he can be sharper/harder.
I also tried to remove(change with full sized metal disks) these small metal disks witch makes clutch to be not so sharp.

Maybe someone can recommend some other tuning disk set which will be better than OEM or EBC ?!
 

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Honestly in the 20 years of riding and wrenching OEM plates are the best. I have used EBC, Barrnet and others and always went back to OEM. Maybe you have set something wrong up. Do you have a manual to check the fitment? I have 32,000 miles and my clutch works just as good as day one! And I beat the hell outta mine everyday. I take care of it though. Not sure of what you expect but maybe you need a second set of eyes to check out the clutch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Yes I have manual, and I checked with manual, measured with electronic calliper which shows hundredth of a millimeter.
Disks are straight, no burned, visually they are not bad or much used.
There always is change to do things wrong - only I don't now what I can do wrong there.

I'm thinking that I will buy brand new OEM set(or EBC), change oil - Motorex CROSS POWER 4T 10W/60 may be the right chose.
Or maybe this one ?!
KTM RACING 4T 20W/60
Fully synthetic high-performance racing engine oil specially designed for KTM racing engines. High-quality base oils enhanced with valuable additives have made it possible to develop this oil of genuine racing quality. The ideal frictional properties guarantee that the wet multidisc clutch will function perfectly under all operating conditions.

developed in cooperation with KTM
tested under the most extreme racing conditions
optimum frictional properties

Specification:

recommended by KTM CUSTOMER RACING
 

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Yes I have manual, and I checked with manual, measured with electronic calliper which shows hundredth of a millimeter.
Disks are straight, no burned, visually they are not bad or much used.
There always is change to do things wrong - only I don't now what I can do wrong there.

I'm thinking that I will buy brand new OEM set(or EBC), change oil - Motorex CROSS POWER 4T 10W/60 may be the right chose.
Or maybe this one ?!
stick to the recommended oil since it works fine. 55000 kms here including trackdays. And never had to add any.

One other thing to check just to be safe. Check that there is no water in your oil coming from the water pump seals as water makes it slip and destroys the lining disks.

And don't use the clutch on up shifts when going fast :)
 

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Motul factory line v300 has some additives that reduce friction and some believe one of those additives could be reason for clutch slip on some bikes. I have read somewhere that 690 engines also comes with slipper clutch and system that is used works in such way that clutch doesnt need strong springs, that is why clutch is so light to pull. It might be that slipper system in not working properly (*if its not pressing clutch plates strong enough when on the gas) for some reason (just a tought).
 

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I would definately only suggest running the Motorex Cross Power 4T 10w/60 oil. I dont know if you have an owners manual for the bike but right in the manual it says that the chemicals in the Cross Power 4T 10w/60 were designed to work with the interior coatings on the 690 motor. If you want you can check out Motorex's website theirs info on there as well. Also that is what the dealer i purchased the bike from told me.
 

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my clutch started slipping after 8k miles.
opened the engine, pulled the clutch and repaired.
metal clutch plates were blue, they should be scratched with sandpaper.
after the procedure, it works fine for 5 thousand kilometers.
I can show pictures step-by-step that are made ​​when i repairing the clutch.
Of oil does not depend on. I used motul now use AGIP 10w60. any standard oil API SG.: Bannana:
 

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Let me point out again, that if you are going proper fast, avoid using the clutch, as I have found the momenentary disangage - engage - full power, punishes the clutch
 

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my clutch started slipping after 8k miles.
opened the engine, pulled the clutch and repaired.
metal clutch plates were blue, they should be scratched with sandpaper.
after the procedure, it works fine for 5 thousand kilometers.
I can show pictures step-by-step that are made ​​when i repairing the clutch.
Of oil does not depend on. I used motul now use AGIP 10w60. any standard oil API SG.: Bannana:
It is not API standard, must be JASO MA approved to be compatible with the clutch.
 

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Its funny cause yesterday I noticed that my clutch is slipping also. I have 690 E and one more thing that I totaly forgot to mention is the hydaulic clutch system has also VERY small oil reservoir. Oil level rises as plates on clutch wear out. If oil level rises to high it would build up pressure that could keep clutch springs from fully disengaging. This could lead to clutch overheat and make them slip permanently. I totaly forgot that when I opened my clutch oil reservoir, oil was poring out. I tough its cause it was not horizontal but today I found it was cause oil level was to high, I also found that the membrane was placed in a wrong way. Oil level should be 4mm from top of the reservoir and in owners manual u can see how membrane should be placed. I did a test ride and I cant tell if clutch slips anymore, it might be slipping but it would be hard to notice.
 

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i have exactly the same problem as the OP of this thread. Now have EBC plates and already changed the metal plates and the innner clutch hub and have spacers under springs and no matter what even when working at its best it always feels like there is a slight slippage when you open the throttle fast in the peak torque area of the revs. I've just done another oil change with Agip 10w60 fully synth this time and more slippage. It was awful at first but the oil level was up to the max line which seems to make things much worse, so i drained some oil and it's a lot better but not perfect. Also let some fluid out of the clutch reservoir. Previously i have used Motul 7100 FS 10w60 and similar result.
Why do people keep saying use motorex? they're all made to the same spec JASO MA(2) so i don't see why it should matter. And yet i saw another poster on another forum saying they tried the same motul oil with the same result but this was with the OEM plates and when they went back to motorex it was fine.

The KTM clutch fibres look a little different to the likes of EBC. I wonder could they be higher friction coefficient than the EBC ones. Obviously the clutch uses very light springs and depends on the forces generated by the basket design to pull the clutch tighter together.

I think for me i am going to go back to the original clutch fibres and motorex to see finally if it makes any difference as i am lost at this stage i've tried so many things. I think i have tried this before but i can't remember now (maybe i put motul in at the time).

One other thing i did notice is that there is a little play in the outer clutch hub (basket). Is this normal? I had a look around the interweb and think it probably is but can anybody confirm this?
 

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If the fibers absorb something, they dont let it go, be it oil, moisture or whatever. So changing your oil will not make a big difference. Changing the oil + fibers will sort it. EBC makes harder springs. I have a set, but I dint use it cause everything went fine with the new fibres

Think of the Jaso MA2 as the dot 5.1 for brakes. For example some 5.1 dont absorb moisture easily but dont have a high boiling point, but others have a very high boiling point but absorb moisture really quick :rolleyes:
Depends what you want it for. Same for the oil. Fully synthetic is not ideal for everyday use, cause it doesnt protect your engine as good for everyday use, and a road-specific oil is not the best for the track.
 

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well the original friction plates and motorex is gone back in.......funny you should mention contamination. The gasket was torn on the clutch cover and was leaking some oil so i replaced that also. There was some white gunk on the inside of the clutch cover so maybe......
 
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