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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got my HotCams in the mail! I'm hoping to put them in tonight or tomorrow. If any of you guys have any tips it'd be a huge help. I've never installed cams before.

I'm also gonna be installing my FCR and MCCT at the same time, but I shouldn't have any problem with that.

Thanks in advance!:thumbup:
 

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Yep, first and foremost, take your time and don't get in a hurry. Make sure your engine is at TDC, for sure. With the valvecover removed, and flywheel showing the T in the sight glass, the cam lobes (shifter side) should be pointing at 10 and 2. Be careful removing the cam journals, there are little dowel pins that help line them up, and they can be stubborn to let go. Stuff some paper towels in all the open parts of the head to keep a stray one from falling into the motor. After you get the journals out, do one cam at a time and you don't have to worry about the cam chain dropping into the motor (not that it's a huge deal if it does, you can fish it out with a magnet tool.) Sent you a PM, if you get really stuck, or have any trouble with it, call me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cool, thanks man! I'm still at work, I probably won't get home until 7:30ish, but I can't wait to tare into it! What did you use to lube the cams, and how did you run them in after they were installed? Oh, and did you use synthetic or regular oil?
 

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Cool, thanks man! I'm still at work, I probably won't get home until 7:30ish, but I can't wait to tare into it! What did you use to lube the cams, and how did you run them in after they were installed? Oh, and did you use synthetic or regular oil?
NP man. I just used the oil I run in my motor, but my cams were used so keep that in mind. I know hot cams recommends assembly lube for the install, I'm pretty sure dino oil for break in, and about a 30 minute ride keeping the bike above 3000 RPM, as little idling as you can get away with.

Another tip, once you get the cams installed, cam chain on, and tighten the cam journals down, tighten your MCCT finger tight, and rotate the engine through it's stroke a few times BEFORE buttoning everything back up. Then make sure all your timing marks still line up (T on the flywheel, cam lobes at 10 and 2, timing marks on cams, and exactly 15 cam chain pins between the timing marks on the cams.) This 5 minute step can save you a trashed motor on the off chance you get something wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Alright, just got home a little while ago. Now I'm gonna find some speakers, pump some Rise Against, and pop the new carby on. I might wait until tomorrow for the cams since I need to pick up some more oil. I feel kinda bad about having to empty out perfectly good oil, since I just changed it about 400mi ago, but oh well.

I think I'll use Fregmasterkarl's MCCT installation method to get it in the ball park, before I open it up. I will check all the things you mentioned before putting it back together though.

Here's his vid:

 

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The cam journal bolts are different lengths. I used some Crane Cams lube om the lifters and cam lobes. Pay careful attention to the markings on the cam gears. Do a search I believe there are 14 cam chain pins between cam gears. I had to cut down my allen socket to torque my journal caps down. I metric feeler gauge is handy so not to have metric to inch conversion error. for some reason Hot Cams does not give a tolerance on valve clearance. I bought the Hot Cam shim kit so I did not have to go running around to get the correct shim... I knew I had it. Yeah, the kit was another $50 but a time saver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, I put the FCR on last night, and I was all set to do the cams tonight, but then I realized that I don't have any silicone to seal the gasket back up. I also need to pick up a new filter.

Did you have to adjust your valves after installing the new cams?
 

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Well, I put the FCR on last night, and I was all set to do the cams tonight, but then I realized that I don't have any silicone to seal the gasket back up. I also need to pick up a new filter.

Did you have to adjust your valves after installing the new cams?
Thomash is right about the bolts, the two longer ones go in the cam chain guide. DON'T mix them up or you'll pull the threads out. 15 pins is correct as confirmed over at TT. Yep, you'll need the silicone, and be easy on the gasket, the half moons can really be in there, don't get impatient and rip it. On reinstall make sure the spark plug hole in the gasket lines up, or you'll be taking the valve cover back off again. You may very well have to adjust the valves with the more agressive cams. You'll also want to check them more often now that they're getting beat on more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thomash is right about the bolts, the two longer ones go in the cam chain guide. DON'T mix them up or you'll pull the threads out. 15 pins is correct as confirmed over at TT. Yep, you'll need the silicone, and be easy on the gasket, the half moons can really be in there, don't get impatient and rip it. On reinstall make sure the spark plug hole in the gasket lines up, or you'll be taking the valve cover back off again. You may very well have to adjust the valves with the more agressive cams. You'll also want to check them more often now that they're getting beat on more.
Yeah, the Clymers manual I downloaded says 15 too.

I actually haven't had to check the valves yet, I've only got like 4800mi on it. How often do you check yours?
 

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Yeah, the Clymers manual I downloaded says 15 too.

I actually haven't had to check the valves yet, I've only got like 4800mi on it. How often do you check yours?
After the cams, I'm going to start with every 7500mi, if they're good then that's what I'll stick with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
After the cams, I'm going to start with every 7500mi, if they're good then that's what I'll stick with.
Oh, that's not bad. How many miles have you got on 'em?

Is this what the clearance should be?



I can't seem to find it in my manual anywhere? If not, I'll ask one of the mechanics at the Suzuki shop tomorrow.
 

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Yep, if that's what they sent you then that's correct. Stock is .10-.20 on the intake, and .20-.30 on the exhaust.
 

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0.15mm is perfect for the intake valves, but I'd go a little bit higher lash on the exhaust valves. Setting the exhaust vavles at 0.20mm is bit too close to too tight for me. I set mine at 0.23mm.
After initial break-in, my exhaust valves went 0.001" too tight after only a couple of weeks. This caused some slight back fire on accel and hard starting. Once you've broken in the new cams, check them again soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I think I'm going insane, clearances seem to be WAY off. I'm gonna go and write down what exactly they are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, turns out I forgot to torque down the cam journal bolts, and that caused the clearance to be WAY to big on some valves. Fixed that problem... and now I've got a new one! Only one valve is in spec, the rest don't have ANY clearance at all.:damn:



Sorry about the messy hand writing, I was on an awkward surface.
 

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:headscrat:hmmm::headscrat
That is REALLY messed up. First I'd make sure that it was at TDC with the cam lobes all the way out. If that's correct than I'd be taking the cams out, taking the buckets out, making sure that the shims are centered. Remove and reinstal is the only thing that I can think of.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
:headscrat:hmmm::headscrat
That is REALLY messed up. First I'd make sure that it was at TDC with the cam lobes all the way out. If that's correct than I'd be taking the cams out, taking the buckets out, making sure that the shims are centered. Remove and reinstal is the only thing that I can think of.
Yeah, I don't know what happened, but I checked again yesterday morning and all but one valve were in spec. I think that since I was using a brand new feeler gauge that I didn't get all the packing oil off it, and a few blades were stuck together. The other possibility is that the Moto elves came and fixed it while I was asleep.

I went and got the shim I needed put it all back together last night, and I'm gonna start it up in a little while.

I appreciate all the help, thanks!
 

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How would I go about attracting these "Moto elves" to my garage? Does Motion Pro breed them? Are they able to work a torque wrench?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
How would I go about attracting these "Moto elves" to my garage? Does Motion Pro breed them? Are they able to work a torque wrench?
You must leave several beverages lying around in your garage. They seem to like snapple, but I'm sure beer would work just as well... Though their work might get a bit shoddy, I'm not sure how well they hold their alcohol. You might come in the next morning and find your bike upside-down and one of them stapled to the celing.

As for working a torque wrench, I think they might be responseable for busting one of mine. My Dad went to use it the other day, to torque the nuts on his trucks wheels, and the numbers disappeared.
 
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