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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've been lurking a while and finally am taking the plunge on a 2010 510SMR that I found with ~1500mi on it.
Bike is clean, no rash/damage, everything fine, completely stock.

Unfortunately, it's a few states away so I can't see it until I drive up to look at it.

So, for you SMJ gurus, I've a few questions:

1. The owner states the oil was changed at 200mi and 800mi, but doesn't know what oil was used since he "takes it to the dealer".
--is this a major concern?


2. I asked about the Power Up Kit and if it was done, and the owner does not know.
--From the pics the pipes are stock, but Arrow exhausts were only for the 2008s, right?
--what else should I look for?
--Is there anyway to tell if it's in the "race" map?

3. Since this is used and there's no Husky dealer near me that I know of (Richmond, VA) where else could I get the dongle/resistor and o2 plug for the P/U kit if I have to do that?
--What's the cost for all of that, and what's involved in doing the PU Kit on my own, or do I need a dealer to tune/map it?

Anything else I should look for? I'm hoping to see it this weekend (8/22/15)

EDIT: bought it. Rode it 8mi before DDM HID kit died and Magura clutch went out.

TYIA!

SC
 

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The dongle is attached to the wire that leads to the O2 sensor. The O2 sensor is removed, the wire is capped with the dongle and O2 sensor hole in the exhaust is capped off with a metal plug. So if there is no O2 sensor in the exhaust pipe then the power up has been done. There is also a restrictive cage that is removed from the airbox. I believe there is also a stop on the side of the throttle body that has to be removed to allow wide open throttle. Those two things are just 30 minutes worth of work to remove. Only parts are the dongle and the exhaust plug. The dongle is super cheap and you can get it from one of the major parts suppliers like Hall's Cycles. Some of the "full" power up kits came with an arrow exhaust but it isn't totally necessary. The dongle puts it in Race map 2. As far as the oil goes, I wouldn't worry too much. I've used expensive oil and cheap oil and mine has always run. It has over 10,000 hard miles on it. Make sure you check the valves once you get it home. Mine had one valve that needed to be adjusted over the break in. None of them have ever moved since then.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Awesome, thanks a lot!

I'll look for the O2 sensor and check the TB for a stop and check the airbox.

For the valves, is there a service manual online for the specs and proper procedure for it (or do you know the specs)? He says he doesn't have the manual.

Thanks again

SC


The dongle is attached to the wire that leads to the O2 sensor. The O2 sensor is removed, the wire is capped with the dongle and O2 sensor hole in the exhaust is capped off with a metal plug. So if there is no O2 sensor in the exhaust pipe then the power up has been done. There is also a restrictive cage that is removed from the airbox. I believe there is also a stop on the side of the throttle body that has to be removed to allow wide open throttle. Those two things are just 30 minutes worth of work to remove. Only parts are the dongle and the exhaust plug. The dongle is super cheap and you can get it from one of the major parts suppliers like Hall's Cycles. Some of the "full" power up kits came with an arrow exhaust but it isn't totally necessary. The dongle puts it in Race map 2. As far as the oil goes, I wouldn't worry too much. I've used expensive oil and cheap oil and mine has always run. It has over 10,000 hard miles on it. Make sure you check the valves once you get it home. Mine had one valve that needed to be adjusted over the break in. None of them have ever moved since then.
 

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What a great bike the Duals on the 09/10 smr are made by arrow and easy to modify
and are great you will want to get a ibeat so you can work on the efi
feel free to check out my site for more info
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Awesome! Thanks man!

What a great bike the Duals on the 09/10 smr are made by arrow and easy to modify
and are great you will want to get a ibeat so you can work on the efi
feel free to check out my site for more info
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Issues---

So, I bought the bike. :)

Got it home, and looks like the PU Kit was done since there's no O2 sensor or throttle block.

Bought with 1058mi on it, 1k service was done and valves checked/adjusted (so seller assured).

Issues--

1) Bike came with DDM HID kit, blown bulb, cracked at the base--I could not find a replacement bulb outside of re-purchasing the entire kit, so I pulled all the old HID kit out and put a 35w H4 in there just to get passed by state inspection so I could title/register it. I'm swapping to an LED kit/bulb instead of the HID as the ballast and the rest of the DDM kit were too intrusive for my tastes and at 5yrs old their reliability is suspect.

2) rode it 8mi to 1066 and the clutch quit working, lever was wet and looks like the seal on the hydraulics is gone, opened the reservoir and nearly all fluid is gone. I was near an Autozone so I put generic clutch fluid/brake fluid in since I needed to limp home and no Magura mineral oil likely to be found as there's no dealer within 5hrs of me and I had to get back to work asap.
--Is there a rebuild kit, or a way to get a new seal or O-ring if that's the case?
--Or should I try to find a used one and swap to something like a Brembo setup that KTM has?

3) How can I tell if it's in P/U "Race 2" mode, does it note it in the power up cycle on the dash?
 

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Yes the make a magura kit, since you introduced brake fluid into the system you should replace the o-ring in the slave cylinder also. In a pinch baby oil will work, you can even get a little bottle at 7-11.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes the make a magura kit, since you introduced brake fluid into the system you should replace the o-ring in the slave cylinder also. In a pinch baby oil will work, you can even get a little bottle at 7-11.
Awesome, thanks for that info, I didn't know and just had to get home. I'll buy some for next time.

Is this the correct part number for the SMR510? It only lists KTM applications:

Magura Master Cylinder Replacement Piston Kit - 9.5mm 0720555

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GTXFCU
 

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Not quite sure if you have a 163 or 167, for that matter not quite sure if there is a difference other than perch height. I believe if both screws that hold the cover on are parallel to the bars it is a 163, 2 screws at the opposite corners are a 167. Please someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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Nobody huh? Okay just got back from the Magura catalog. There are 9.5 and 10.5 diameter lots, both have mineral or DOT choices. Does your lever have the red adjusting knob or the nut?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Nobody huh? Okay just got back from the Magura catalog. There are 9.5 and 10.5 diameter lots, both have mineral or DOT choices. Does your lever have the red adjusting knob or the nut?
Red adjusting knob and it says 9.5 on the bottom
(pic if link works)
 

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Sorry those fb links dosent work....But you can also use castrol 10W front fork oil, but you need bleed that system..Easiest way is push fluid at that lower nipple at some syringe. That is fastest way, check in google how that was done, then you see better, if my writes are bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #16


There it is in the middle 072-0555, 9.5 mineral oil.

I would say that would be a good choice.
Awesome, thanks man!!

Don't come back and kill me if I'm wrong.

hehe, --no worries, I just want to ride, not shoot anyone. A total of 8mi is a real sad tease of the fun I'm missing--maybe I can get it fixed by this weekend...maybe...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Sorry those fb links dosent work....But you can also use castrol 10W front fork oil, but you need bleed that system..Easiest way is push fluid at that lower nipple at some syringe. That is fastest way, check in google how that was done, then you see better, if my writes are bad.

I removed the links, tried as attachments.

Thanks man!
 

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Mine did the exact same thing at the exact same mileage. Shortly after that the slave cylinder started leaking. Magura clutch really sucks in my opinion. Do yourself a favor and go ahead and get an aftermarket slave cylinder when you do the master cylinder rebuild. Sucks to spend the money on it after you dropped thousands on the bike but it WILL most likely fail so you might as well bite the bullet. Other than that mine has worked pretty well.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Mine did the exact same thing at the exact same mileage. Shortly after that the slave cylinder started leaking. Magura clutch really sucks in my opinion. Do yourself a favor and go ahead and get an aftermarket slave cylinder when you do the master cylinder rebuild. Sucks to spend the money on it after you dropped thousands on the bike but it WILL most likely fail so you might as well bite the bullet. Other than that mine has worked pretty well.
Do you happen to have a link to the aftermarket one you used?

Fwiw, I'd tempted to yank the Magura off and go to a Brembo system, just don't know if it'd be compatible, but I've never had any issues with any Brembo system on any of my bikes (or cars for that matter).

This is my first experience with Magura, and with only 8mi on my Husky before failure (1058 when bought, 1066 when it blew) I can't say I'm impressed
 

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On cafehusky, there is a know issue with the anodizing failing on them. I would also worry about distortion from a crash, if your mirror mounts to it.
 
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