I use Motul RBF600 in everything.
Best DOT-4 Brake Fluid For WRX.
Guys, does it matter what brand of DOT-4 brake fluid I go with? What are all of you using?
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are you racing? If not I would just fill with DOT 3 and change often. This bike isn't too heavy and doesn't have much power, not much chance of brake fade with decent fresh fluid and pads.
Definitely not racing her. I just have 12K miles on the same fluid and am well overdue for a change. I've never changed brake fluid before and I'm honestly anticipating a curse-god-and-your-own-existence ordeal. That is, I don't want to have to do this often.*grin*are you racing? If not I would just fill with DOT 3 and change often. This bike isn't too heavy and doesn't have much power, not much chance of brake fade with decent fresh fluid and pads.
if you're going to recommend to change often you might as well run DOT4 or DOT 5.1.are you racing? If not I would just fill with DOT 3 and change often. This bike isn't too heavy and doesn't have much power, not much chance of brake fade with decent fresh fluid and pads.
subscribing to the thread. Just ordered HEL SS Braided front brake line, so I'll be bleeding some brake fluid. First time I'll be working with the brake fluid as well (i have changed plenty of brake pads before) so interested in y'all inputs.
changing fluid is pretty straight forward, refilling and bleeding the system might take a little more time but the principle stays the same.
think the best instructional video I found so far is this one:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkxcQzhgJLU
the only differences you might come across is that some stock master cylinders don't have a bleeding screw and on our supermoto's you only have to work with 1 caliper which makes the job even easier.
if you just want to replace the fluid, all you need to do is pump out the old fluid through the caliper at the bottom and introduce fresh fluid into your master cylinder reservoir. it doesn't take much fluid to fill a system so replacing fluid really doesn't take long, unless you manage to let the reservoir run dry and suck in air, then you need to bleed the entire system again.
to bleed my brakes I just took a small jar, drilled a hole in the cap and used a clear piece of carb vent tubing to hook up to the bleeder screw. no need to buy specific bleeding bags like the one in the video if you're not gonne use it that often.
think the best instructional video I found so far is this one:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkxcQzhgJLU
the only differences you might come across is that some stock master cylinders don't have a bleeding screw and on our supermoto's you only have to work with 1 caliper which makes the job even easier.
if you just want to replace the fluid, all you need to do is pump out the old fluid through the caliper at the bottom and introduce fresh fluid into your master cylinder reservoir. it doesn't take much fluid to fill a system so replacing fluid really doesn't take long, unless you manage to let the reservoir run dry and suck in air, then you need to bleed the entire system again.
to bleed my brakes I just took a small jar, drilled a hole in the cap and used a clear piece of carb vent tubing to hook up to the bleeder screw. no need to buy specific bleeding bags like the one in the video if you're not gonne use it that often.
figured for $40 it's worth getting one of those, to have an all in one easy bleeding tool:
http://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac-vacuum-pump-39522.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac-vacuum-pump-39522.html
+1I use Motul RBF600 in everything.
i use the bmw dot4 stuff we have at work
no man, changing fluid is easy peasey, get an old jar, a length of clear tubing from the hardware store that fits on your bleed nipple. Pump the old stuff out and pour the new stuff in through your master cylinder. After you've done it once you'll be able to do it in 15 minutes.
Great feedback, guys. Thanks a lot! I think I'll get ambitious and upgrade to stainless steel lines whilst I'm at it.
Very good idea!Great feedback, guys. Thanks a lot! I think I'll get ambitious and upgrade to stainless steel lines whilst I'm at it.
Motul RBF600 best shit out there, perfect for stunt riding where you use a lot of brakes often, ive had brake fade with dot 3 or 4 but never get it with the RBF600
Delphi Lockheed Dot 5.1 is without silicone , that's what I use on my bikeGuys, does it matter what brand of DOT-4 brake fluid I go with? What are all of you using?
(wr450 sm )
Replacing front brake pads and caliper seals.
Thanks for all of the feedback, guys.
On another note, how difficult is it to change the brake pads up front? Probably a stupid question, but I've never replaced brake pads before so here goes: will I have to drain the brake fluid for the pad swap?
And finally, have any of you replaced the seals in the front caliper? If so, how difficult was it and what did it involve?
Thanks for all of the feedback, guys.
On another note, how difficult is it to change the brake pads up front? Probably a stupid question, but I've never replaced brake pads before so here goes: will I have to drain the brake fluid for the pad swap?
And finally, have any of you replaced the seals in the front caliper? If so, how difficult was it and what did it involve?
How hard is it? A monkey can do it! I am living proof.On another note, how difficult is it to change the brake pads up front? Probably a stupid question, but I've never replaced brake pads before so here goes: will I have to drain the brake fluid for the pad swap?
It is very easy: unscrew the caliper, remove the old pads, put in the new ones. No need to drain. The only difficulty is to not put your greasy fingers everywhere on the rotor.
As for the seals, I have never done it, but it does not seem like rocket science. I do believe you would have to bleed though.
And just one tip when bleeding/replacing brake fluid: don't do it when it's raining outside or if the ambient air is very humid. Brake fluid is hydrophilic (it loves water) and will absorb the ambient moisture.
That water will then create vapor and bubbles in your braking system.
Of course if it only takes you a few minutes to do the fluid swap, it won't be a problem. But if like me you don't have a bleeder and like to be thorough, it might become one.
That water will then create vapor and bubbles in your braking system.
Of course if it only takes you a few minutes to do the fluid swap, it won't be a problem. But if like me you don't have a bleeder and like to be thorough, it might become one.
need to push the pistons back on the caliper in order to create enough room for the rotor to be put between the new pads.
one detail you cannot by any means overlook. when you bleed the system even with only partialy worn pads and fill your reservoir to the max will mean the circuit will be overfilled when you replace the pads and are required to push the pistons back. pushing the pistons back means fluid is moved up back into the reservoir.
overfilling can mean certain death. when the fluid heats up it can cause the pads to drag against the rotor or in a worst case scenario the brakes can lock up on their own without you touching the lever.
if you change out the pads always double check the fluid level afterwards!
one detail you cannot by any means overlook. when you bleed the system even with only partialy worn pads and fill your reservoir to the max will mean the circuit will be overfilled when you replace the pads and are required to push the pistons back. pushing the pistons back means fluid is moved up back into the reservoir.
overfilling can mean certain death. when the fluid heats up it can cause the pads to drag against the rotor or in a worst case scenario the brakes can lock up on their own without you touching the lever.
if you change out the pads always double check the fluid level afterwards!
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