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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

I have a brand new (2011) FS 570, it was shipped to me from a dealer out of state. The bike has been sitting for about 6 weeks because I was traveling for work... i had a mechanic come by to inspect everything on the bike, he made some minor adjustments, anyway we tried to start it and I guess the battery is dead.. so he told me to get a tender and keep it on for about 3 days and then try and start it again..

Can anyone recommend a good battery tender for the FS 570? also since this is the first time im starting the bike, anything i need to look for? i thought i read somewhere something about the fuel pump cycling?

Thanks in advance for any help or advice.

SMWB
 

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3 days lol? Maybe if you charge it using 50mA current.

If it's badly discharged chances are it's lost some of it's capacity, and may drain again quite soon to similiar condition to be unable to start the bike. Although it's a new battery this should not happen when you charge it back to full capacity, but check the resting voltage of the battery after it's charged and not used for a day or so. It should be 12.5V or above to indicate good condinition. If it's close to 12V or even less then it's most likely trash and you need a new battery.

Ctek makes good chargers for lead acid and AGM batterys that have desulfation mode to resurrect batterys with bad cells or hard to charge (not accepting current) batterys. But most automatic smart chargers work the same, so get one that you can find closest to you. Keep it charged for good 4-8 hours @ low amps (4A or less) and your good to go and install it back.

To help the bike to start easier press once the starter button to let fuel pump prime itself, and then crank it normally. Run in the bike pretty hard and be sure to use all gears and alot deacceleration. Change oil and filter @ 1h!! Don't skip that part or you will be sorry later. Alot of metal shaving gets drained in the oil and trapped in oil filter, lower mesh filter near drain plug and upper mesh filter on the head where the oil feed tube goes and is held in place with the banjo bolt that keeps the filter in.

Clean those mesh filters and put new filter and oil in and go have fun. Change oil regulary at @ 5-7h intervals and you don't need to do any major rebuilds in a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ok

thanks for the advice,

I just want to charge it here at home, plus with my work travel where im gone a week or two at a time i think i need to have one in the garage.. how about one of these two? kind of pricey but if im going to use them over the winter, etc. might be worth..my understnading is the ctek is both a charger and tender depending on what mode you use.

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-022-0148-DL-WH-12-Volt-Management/dp/B000CIPHUI/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1338143884&sr=1-8

http://www.amazon.com/CTEK-Multi-7002-Battery-Charger/dp/B000FRLO9Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1338143729&sr=8-3
 

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Also the decompressor might act on it's own sometimes. If the motor is coming right on compression stroke and you press the starter nothing happens. Just lug the bike forward with gear in slightly to turn the motor over and hit the starter again, should spin nicely.

Those charger you showed are way overkill for your needs, unless you have big car batterys to charge and maintain.

This is all you need, I have same one myself:
http://www.amazon.com/Ctek-Battery-Charger-56158-56-158/dp/B000FQBWCY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1
 

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correct, you need to disconnect the battery on this bike, otherwise the fuel pump will run all the time when its on tender.
I've never heard of such a thing. Anyone else ?


you sure the battery is dead? does the FI light come on? if so, it's probably just in gear, make sure its in neutral when starting.
Please point me to the sensor that keeps track of if neutral is in or not !!!





Besides that - supermotowannabe, listen to maKe. He has lots of good advice !
Regarding the 3 days of charging... I have even started my bike using jumper cables from my van. Can't see why that should be wrong...
 

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I've never heard of such a thing. Anyone else ?

Please point me to the sensor that keeps track of if neutral is in or not !!!
where did i ever say that their is a neutral light? it would be nice to have though.

ask your dealer about the battery tender and fuel pump issue. But it's fairly common knowledge (i knew about it before i bought mine)
 

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ok..

the bike was already in neutral, the front lights and the blinkers work, when you move the bike forward and back the speedometer/odometer comes on....i did try putting the bike in first and moving it forward a bit..

when you try and start the bike, you get this sort of weak farting noise, its similar to when a car battery doesnt have enough juice.. so i think the battery just needs some more juice..

I suggested jump starting the bike using my car, but the mechanic told me that is not really good for the battery and the best thing to do was use a tender or charger in maintenance mode...i even suggested clutch starting it with him pushing me down the street but he said that's not really ideal either..

anyway i ordered the tender and it should be here in a couple of days...

one other question i have is the rider weight.. i weigh 220 lbs.. do i really need to get a different spring for this bike? will i damage it? if i do ned to get one can i get it after the break in period?

thanks again to everyone for the advice..

SMWB
 

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where did i ever say that their is a neutral light? it would be nice to have though.

ask your dealer about the battery tender and fuel pump issue. But it's fairly common knowledge (i knew about it before i bought mine)
Where did I say something about a "neutral light" ? :headscrat
If there is some sort of neutral interlock, as you're suggesting, there has to be a sensor that tells the ECU it shouldn't start. I asked where that sensor is located since I for sure haven't seen one on my bike.


Why ask my dealer regarding a "non issue" (at least for me)?
I use my Ctek 3600 on my bike on a pretty regular basis and the fuel pump never activates until I press the magic button. But thats just my experience, don't know if others have had that problem.






the bike was already in neutral, the front lights and the blinkers work, when you move the bike forward and back the speedometer/odometer comes on....i did try putting the bike in first and moving it forward a bit..

when you try and start the bike, you get this sort of weak farting noise, its similar to when a car battery doesnt have enough juice.. so i think the battery just needs some more juice..

I suggested jump starting the bike using my car, but the mechanic told me that is not really good for the battery and the best thing to do was use a tender or charger in maintenance mode...i even suggested clutch starting it with him pushing me down the street but he said that's not really ideal either..

anyway i ordered the tender and it should be here in a couple of days...

one other question i have is the rider weight.. i weigh 220 lbs.. do i really need to get a different spring for this bike? will i damage it? if i do ned to get one can i get it after the break in period?

thanks again to everyone for the advice..

SMWB
It sure sounds like a poor battery. But before you do anything else, make sure the battery connectors are tight. I have experienced about the same symptoms when mine were coming loose.
It's better for the battery to get some charge before jump starting the bike and best to get it fully charged but I actually can't see the harm in using jumper cables (perhaps unless the battery is completely flat). Especially not when you have a new bike sitting at home you can't use :bannana:

The speedo lights up since it is activated by the sensor/magnet on the caliper support/disc.

Clutch starting seems like hard work, try the charger first :D

Regarding springs... You will benefit from stiffer springs, the bikes are generally set up for tiny guys (I'd guess some 150-160lbs). I'm some 210lbs myself. But since you're not THAT far off I'd ride the bike stock for a while and once you get a feel for it consider a change. The first thing you should do is set up static and rider sag, front and rear.
 
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