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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so a while back my 1.2Ah battery kicked the bucket on me. Dang thing was dead and wouldn't take a charge...so, I've been riding without a battery for a few months...not cool mind you. Stick to the daylight, use hand signals and switch off headlight prior to using the turn signals. Not a fun way to be doing things.

Without the battery the regulator, for lack of a better term goes apesh!t. The high and the lows don't cancel to a nice 13 or so volts. No, it's more like 8-9 vdc. Not at all ideal for things that are needing 12 volts.

So, I was looking around. Battery eliminator caps (that's capacitor for those of you that aren't cool enough to pick up on the lingo =P )run around $25-40 bucks from places like Trailtech. I'm looking at the pictures and I'm like yeah, that's ridiculous. Not knowing how well it would work I started searching around. Some guys on the Kawi 750 triples had written up a deal on them, and another over on some an SR site. So, kick start only bikes were running them no problem. Beings I am a 23 yr old manly man, I haven't invested in a e-button, cause well, those are for wussies. So, I went out in search of something to get my lights back up to snuff.

So, I'm surfing Ebay. I find a 16vdc 21000UF Phillips Cap with the nice screw terminals. went ahead and ordered it to check it out. The Kawi guys were saying use a 50000UF one, but damn that's a lot of current to pulse through the system when you hit the ignition switch (Yeah I have a husky key switch on mine wired with the kill switch and the battery to the instruments/lights) Anyway, I figure I'd give this one a shot (in comparison some of the SR guys said use a 9000UF to 15000UF one).

So, I wire this sumbeech up to where my battery leads were (I've got all custom wiring harness that is kinda make shift - so ignore my birds nest of wires below...I'm going to make a super clean new one, but having trouble sourcing large lengths of shrink tube) Anyway, install time ~ 2 minutes. Using some electrical wire to insulate and simply using velcro straps to tie it onto my air filter cage. Backed up my flasher relay to it and it looks fine and secure to me.

I suppose I should've taken before and after pics of my headlight, but I didn't. If someone begs me to I'll pull it back off and do a comparison of the two. But here below is all the more room it takes up and this thing weighs maybe 2 oz. This thing in the box that 8 could fit in with packing was 5 oz according to the USPS scale, not bad.

So, how'd it work? Absolutely amazing. I was actually shocked at how nice it was working. I pulled out my meter and I had 11 volts on it at idle, rev it up to about 2500 and from there up I had 12.5. Perfect. All my lights glow bright and steady and my turn signals are as bright as I've ever seen them (yeah even with the battery, go figure).

So, all in all for spending a total of less than $10 and really being a no brainer install. I've got to recommend this to all you guys with the barely legal plated builds. $10 beats any battery you could run by about 50%.

***Note: It would be best to get something in the neighborhood of 25v to 50v on the cap, once you exceed the voltage for the cap, it will have, um...undesired effects which might not be good. But, mine is a 16vdc one with a 20vdc surge rating so I think it should do just fine. ***
 

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Very interesting. :hmmm: What kinda voltage are getting @ higher rpm's?
Oh, I forgot... Are these voltage readings w/ or w/out lights on?
 

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Very interesting. :hmmm: What kinda voltage are getting @ higher rpm's?
Oh, I forgot... Are these voltage readings w/ or w/out lights on?
I was getting a pretty steady reading in the neighborhood of 12.5v from about 2000-5000, didn't go any higher than that cause it wasn't changing and it was vibrating too bad, lol.

Readings didn't change with the lights on really, maybe a few tenths of a volt, nothing drastic. I'll check again tomorrow to be sure. It decided to start storming as soon as I started working on it (which was oddly 10 minutes after I got back from riding it home from work). Might look into finding a little voltage gauge as well to keep an eye on things. But, I'm pretty confident it's all going to be pretty steady.

Rest of my electronics:
1) Trailtech flywheel
2) Moose/Electrex/Electrosport 270W stator kit
3) Rick's Motorsport Electrics' Rectifier/Regulator

So, the rest of my stuff is set up to handle some extra umph, and shouldn't jump too much with a maybe 40w headlight (LED taillight pulls dang near nothing), turn signals would be the big draw and I'm trying to think if I tried kicking them on with the meter going, don't think I did, so I'll try that tomorrow.
 
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