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Discussion Starter #1
Welp. I'm a college kid who bought an Sxv for dirt Cheap. with fresh new motor(sealant). I will post some pictures this weekend for yall.

I would appreciate all tips and tricks even though i have researched a lot I would love to hear all info on what i should do for a proper hoonigan bike.

Bike is all stock except being derestricted and tuned. Previous owners got rid of the god awful brake and plate holder now has the evotech from af1 racing as well as a frame slider.

First thing on my list is re-springing the bike for my fat ass with race tech springs. as well as some 50stunt sliders and stunt hoop with pegs. I want the best crash protection i can get and the pegs and hoop combo should protect that ever so sexy exhaust. And I know i can use skate board wheels for sliders but this being an SXV i want it to look the best it can.

Before everyone says to get an exhaust for it, Im not willing to spend 1k on exhaust and lose the exhaust tips which are my favorite part on the bike.

Any reviews on the power commander with autotune?

Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks man,

Yeah Im super stoked, this winter I am going to get everything powder coated and look into getting some custom graphics or see if vinyl wrap for cars will hold up to everyday abuse. I really want this thing to be custom. This is my only toy so I plan on doing a high quality build. Just need to find some guys to ride with up in Fort Collins Colorado.
 

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Had my graphics done by a friend who makes custom graphics for racers and all kinds of bikes. Here is my race bike 08 SXV 550. BTW a used exhaust for our bikes go for 500. I just sold my Silmoto for $500 to a friend. That a remap and airfilter wake the bike up. Its a new bike once thats done.



 

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Glad to see you drove to KC and picked it up.

:popcorn:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah Thumperama Im driving down to get it this friday havent actually got it yet. But its a sure deal.

Does silmoto keep the exhaust tips? and where can i find a silmoto? 500 is certainly doable.
 

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Silmoto does make a version with tips, $500 is used price. Classified/Parts on Aprilia forum or ebay.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Pics

Heres some crappy pictures outside my apartment. I literally just got home. Drove a total of 19 hours, and 1350 miles. Started the trip Friday night and drove all night, picked the bike up first thing in the morning, then drove back. It has been a brutal 36 hours but worth it. Bike is clean other than the scrapes on the engine from being laid down, and the rattle can paint job shrouds as you can see didn't hold up on the drive, Im glad the axels and the swing arm are not scraped or dinged. But little cosmetics don't bother me at this point thats for later. Ohh and the license plate holder is MIA. The bike was great in Kansas city but in Fort Collins the altitude is harsh on it with the current tune. The springs are super soft for me being Im 6'3 235lbs but that fix is on the way. The front brake is freaking huge! and damn touchy but i'm sure will lead to some great stoppies in my future.However I don't like the way my knees line up with the shrouds do the make taller seats for these?

Like I said crappy Photos but i'm exhausted. Once i get it registered I'll take some good photos with scenery and my sliders. Plus a spring install with budget tools. I will be doing this Build over a long period of time. Right now I just want a bike to ride to school, and I have got to stock up on tools and money for this winter when the fun starts.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
More pictures.

Ohh and Some sampler powder coating options for the frame/forks/parts of wheels/ pretty much everything but the plastics. I want a satin bronze/pewter kind of color. similar to what you would find on forged car wheels. Im using prismatic powders website to find good colors. I want the bike to have matte blue/indigo plastics (vinyl wrap unless any other options) with the bronze like frame. But im open to other options just supply pictures to give better view. I want the bike to be classy and not vibrant and in your face. However I was considering the gloss laguna seca blue look found on e46 m3's. Just shoot me ideas and anything you'd like to see done to the bike.

The samplers below have different textures. Going down starting at the top that one is like a line x bed liner or just sandpaper like which im not sure if i like or not. and then the middle has slight texture while the last one is smooth.

And again any recommendations on the PC3 with auto tune. or any tuning recommendations with high altitude
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Took a few pictures of the powder coating swatches in day light. My favorite was the antique bronze or the middle one on my last post. it appears to be more of a black but in the right lighting pops into metallic bronze. Kinda cool I guess. Still indecisive on what color to use on the frame. But if i chose to go bronze like I think this color is what I will use.

I was able to drive the bike some more today. Altitude pretty much killed the wow factor of the Sxv :bs:. But in a few pay checks That will be fixed. For now its good enough to drive to school and hit a good road. It Idles kinda choppy and rough. And can really slightly surge at the right rpm while cruising. Cleary running rich even with out the back firing or decel pop. I did a few clutch ups and scared the shit out of myself. The way the vtwin handles rpm is a huge difference, it just chases the wheelie beautifully and with ease :bowdown:. Needless to say coming from a DRZ, I gave it way to much throttle to keep the wheel up lol. The bars are a little low for me to be comfortable while standing and I'm Looking into options to lower the foot pegs a little so my legs don't hit the shrouds awkwardly. I know not the best option but unless i can raise the seat a bit more, I'm not sure what else i can do.

I'm looking into making a custom exhaust out of titanium or stainless. By using an after market header pipe while maintaining the under seat and tail pipe look. Possibly using the typical dirtbike exhaust and tucking it under then running tips, I need to take the stock silencer out and see how much room is actually under there. Not sure if you guys like cars but I think the Charlie Turbo Style tear drop exhaust tips would look insane. I'll post a picture of what I'm talking about. At idle the exhaust tone sounds mean. I love it, but at higher rpms its high pitched, I would love for a deeper tone. Other than that its a good loudness. Not to obnoxious but loud enough for drivers to hear you. However I'm not sure straight pipes would help with all the texting and driving kids here in a college town. And Holy hell does the exhaust get hot, Should be quite nice while riding in the cold but damn she gets toasty.

So as far as what to expect before winter comes, Im just gonna install the springs, and sliders. Then get it tuned or buy the PC5 with autotune. And pay off my loan which is primarily just so I can build credit and afford some nice riding gear. I don't think I've ever been so excited about winter coming, Seriously cant wait to tear this bike apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Respring

Got my springs in the mail the other day, I was kinda scared I would start it and then not be able to finish it due to lack of tools and or skill set if something unexpected were to happen.

So I started with the fork springs and to save time and effort I left the forks on the bike. Just tighten the triples a little, took the bars off and went at it. I used some walmart vise grips or whatever they're called just a big ass plier, some locking pliers, and my ever so useful bike straps. I hoisted the bike up using my straps looped over the rafters that I reinforced by throwing a 2x8 across the top of them. I then unscrewed the fork cap, and used a strap looped across the upper triple clamps and the axle to compress the springs. That gave me access to completely remove the cap completely. Then I swapped the springs and reversed the process. Took about 30 minutes. Redneck engineering at its finest.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Rear Respring

As For the rear I just ripped the whole ass end off seemed easier than fiddling and trying to squeeze the shock assembly out. So I took the seat, subframe, exhaust and plastics out to free up room. Then disconnected the linkage to the shock and swing arm. Then pulled the shock assembly out the top. Slapped the assembly on the ground and stood on top of it to loosen the nuts using those vise grips. Stupid design didn't allow me to unscrew the nuts all the way in order to pull the spring cup out of the top. So I used some more redneck engineering and wrapped my bike strap around the shock assembly and hooked onto the spring which a locking plier holding the strap in place basically a spring compressor. Then did the same thing on the new one. Slapped her back in. Set all clickers front and rear to half way for now. Gonna set the sag and all that tomorrow when my assistant (gf) is around. Not sure how long I worked on this because I also installed the 50 stunt parts and located my new leak I found this morning. She dumped a good amount of oil into the air box and that found its way to the floor. Tomorrow Im gonna drain the oil and see if she was just over filled. Hopefully so, otherwise I gotta fix that damn design of oil overflow
 

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Got my springs in the mail the other day, I was kinda scared I would start it and then not be able to finish it due to lack of tools and or skill set if something unexpected were to happen.

So I started with the fork springs and to save time and effort I left the forks on the bike. Just tighten the triples a little, took the bars off and went at it. I used some walmart vise grips or whatever they're called just a big ass plier, some locking pliers, and my ever so useful bike straps. I hoisted the bike up using my straps looped over the rafters that I reinforced by throwing a 2x8 across the top of them. I then unscrewed the fork cap, and used a strap looped across the upper triple clamps and the axle to compress the springs. That gave me access to completely remove the cap completely. Then I swapped the springs and reversed the process. Took about 30 minutes. Redneck engineering at its finest.
OK, you're fired...putting Channel Locks on a fork cap? Damn, Dude. Channel Locks are plumbing tools.....
 

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Dude get urself the correct tools. It will save you time and money in the long run.
 

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Dude, throw out the freakin channel locks before you wreck anther part.

You've already ruined your fork caps and spring pre-load ring.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm in college and money is tight. I took precautions and used a rag wrapped around the parts. Not sure where you all are getting ruined from. I understand the process i've used is not ideal. I can't afford to spend money on tools I will most likely never use again like what 60-75mm fork cap socket. I rebuild cars with my dad and his tool collection has many of the ginormous tools and I have never seen them used. I did what I had to do get the job done and "ragret" nothing I'm sure many users will agree with me. I'm sorry to disappoint you.

With that being said I'm looking to get rid of the bike now after owning it for a month. I ride it to much, and thats not being ridden on the track where it belongs. I haven't been off the bike since I got it except for the 2 oil changes I've done it and the stuff mentioned above where I "trashed" certain parts on the bike. This just isn't the bike to be used almost everyday for commuting and then beat up on the weekends. I need a more reliable sumo that can take it and really be appreciated. The Aprilia is fantastic and sex on wheels but I'm afraid this much riding will be too much for it especially with 2 oil changes a month holy shit that oil is expensive.

Pm or text me at 770-519-5881. Preferred that you don't call but instead text me to set up a time to call.

Austin,
 

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Austin, at least you can always say you owned one of the sexiest, rip roaringest, baddest a$$ sumos ever made. Kudos. I wanted one but didn't fell like doing a rebuild every year.
 
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