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Discussion Starter #1
Hey people,

I wanted to open this thread to give a thank you to this community for the endless information i have found upon here (Specifically Crash for his thick mental book of glorious knowledge and a few others i forgot the names of..... Sorry).
Not only that but to share my build and my thought process during. Also about giving what i learnt throughout my build back to you guys and for those who wanted help/opinions on what to do in certain situations/decisions. Consider this an AMA, i dont know all but will answer where i can.
As all projects go this is not finished, yet. But i decided to post this today just after a 200km joy ride because after riding it just now i feel like ive built the bike pretty damn close to exactly how i want it. 4 hours later and im still grinning :bike:
I wish i took more photos of my progress but if people ask i am more than willing to go back into the man cave and strip the bike to snap some pics of things I've already done.
The goal of this build was a fun and usable road bike for weekend twisties and the occasional 2 day road trip while still being able to switch back to a dirt bike.

6 months ago i didn't know id build a supermoto but was after a solid 450 dirtbike that i could take up the nearby hills for some serious enduro/hill climbing with some family friends, then i snatched this up for a good deal. It was recently rebuilt and was immaculate with only 3100kms/ish on the odometer. It had all the free mods done to it plus the gytr bash plate and some radiator guards.





Since i could only go out once every 3 to 4 weeks it wasnt enough to scratch the itch, and couldn't afford a road bike at the time. Then i found the rabbit hole forum Known as SMJ.

Next thing i knew these arrived:


Wheels by KKE, a brand with no reputation but the wheels are holding up really well even after some harsh ending wheelies. Came with the brake rotors, front brake adapter and a 44t sprocket. Came with appropriate spacers and the front hub fitted the speedo drive perfectly. I can understand why people want the trailtech vapor but i didnt want to spend the money on it and wanted to use the stock speedo. by the way, if for some reason you cant adjust wheel diameter on them, in certain countries they put a block so you cant access that. Easy fix is to take the boot off and cut the grey looped wire that comes out and goes back in, tape it off and you should be good to go.



Other thing i bought was a cyclops 10.0 Ultra headlight but later realized you cant use high/low beam with ac power so a trailtech DC stator is on the list at some point.



The DRC led taillight was not that bright and had a few l.e.d's not working so that was also replaced with a newer model.



Also the led turn signals, bought some cheap led ones on ebay and they work great but cost me 2 led flasher units to realize that they'll only work on dc not ac like the bike is set up :damn:. That involved re-routing a positive cable from the tail light connection which had a fuse on it to the flasher unit plug.



My pet peeve with dirt bikes is there 2x4 seat so ordered a seat concepts seat cover and foam to save my coccyx. Easy enough instructions to follow, doesn't ruin the look of the bike and can cruise on this for days.



So after doing a valve check on the bike it turned out the intake shims were all out of spec (huge gap). Pretty easy to do and can get to the cams no probs.
While i was at it there is a grey tps plug near the cover behind the frame that i'd definitely recommend you unplug this and tape it off. No it does not harm your bike but if you experience the bike trying to cut out while holding a certain rpm then that'll be it.



The jets that were in the bike when purchased were the gytr kit so: 50 pilot, 175 main and 45 leak. which after checking the plug was way too rich, so i put the stock ones back in (45p, 162m, 50L) which idled waaayy better but leaned out at 3/4 throttle and onward so put the 175 main back in. Getting sick of the constant bog and fowled plug i ordered these after seeing how praised they were and not wanting to take the back end all apart.







After putting the power bowl on which came with an adjustable leak jet (1 1/2 turns out).
Installing the stronger Accelerator pump spring, I put in the red needle with the 170 main and 48 pilot.
And after that "Its like a fuel injected bike". i don't know how it works but that bowl/jet combination has gotten rid of all bog and any flat spots, so linear. I'm impressed, definitely worth getting.

Next thing on the list was a different sprocket combination, the bike was purchased with 13/50 and a spare 14t. when i bought the wheels it came with 44t. I loved the zippyness of that combo but for where i live where everywhere outside of town is 100kmh/62.5mph it was to either cruise at 90kmh or rev it a little too high. I saw alot of people with wr's go 15 front but i wanted to keep my case saver and my chain was too short for the adjustment i had left so i scrounged around looking for a 40t steel but couldn't find one that fit or was blue/black (call me mr.ocd but i wanted it to look good). I got hold of supersprox and they made a stealth 40t sprocket for me. I thought it may be too high geared but the thing cruises at 105-110kmh and still power wheelies 2nd! The quality of the sprocket is really solid.



I was pretty skeptical about getting one because every supermoto i have seen has got the same Acerbis sm fender on it and i was hoping to keep the stock one on so its one thing less for me to change when switching back to dirt. But the thing was flapping in the wind and it does overhang a little too much. So i went to alternative route and Bought a 2018 YZ85 fender, drilled different holes in it, put the spacers back on and bolted it on, im pleased of how it turned out and didn't ruin the look of the bike.



Ok the next upgrade is one of the greatest things you could do to a WR/YZ in my opinion. As you could see from the wheels i got there is no cush drive. Upon going the supermoto route i didn't put much thought into it but the on/off nature of these bikes along with the single cylinder thumping engine put a bit of worry in my head for the lasting effect that will have on a transmission and after doing a load of research on it i felt like i found the cheapish answer without buying another hub. On the 2014 and up YFZ450r it comes with a slipper clutch with rubber bushes built into it. You can find one on ebay for $200 usd plus other parts you will need which will be around an extra 50. I wish i posted more Pics on this one but if people ask i will drop the oil and take pics on how i assembled mine. From my knowledge this will drop right in to most if not all WR/YZ 450's with some extra parts and mucking around. You will need 2 Friction plates (1TD-16331-00) and one steel plate (1TD-16324-00) which will allow the clutch to use its slipping function. The rest of the plates from your wr/yz will fill the rest of the space, you will have to mix and match the wr/yz steel plates in to get the right thickness.
In the yz 06-09/wr 07-11 there is 4 thicker steel plates and 3 thinner steel plates, i used 3 thick one thin. Each generation of model is different in what clutch plates they use i think.
Since my slipper is already in and i am a moron for not taking photos here's the one i got.



The benefits i got out of it were no more vibrations, a whole lot smoother, the slipper bonus and a lighter clutch pull. I was worried that the lighter springs in the clutch pack wouldn't be able to hold the power but i've tried to get it to slip but it still holds solid. This is what has made the bike bearable to ride for long distances while still keeping its fun factor. You know its worth it when you think to yourself "I could ride this bike all day". I'm not saying you have to get this or a cush hub but i will say it might be worth the insurance.
Note: It doesn't get rid of low rpm chain slap.

This is where my build is at now so of course there is more to come, I have my YZ hotcams here but Im not going to put them on until my exhaust system comes to compliment them. I was going to go for the 06 YZ full exhaust as the cheaper option but upon watching one go round a track they are too loud for my taste so ive gone with a YZ yoshimura rs-2 slip on with a stainless steel powerbomb header for that extra umph. I wanted to go for the new akro system that you see in the EFI bikes but from my knowledge it doesn't fit :poo:.



On a side note for months i had the terrible death wobble that got pretty bad at around 115kmh+ spent days and weeks adjust suspension, tire pressure and geometry. Found that if i hold the front brake and push the bike back and forth i can feel and hear a loud *clunk* *clunk* noise. Found out that the head bearing lock nut had come loose due to when i last greased the bearings i didn't do it tight enough. Readjusted, Tightened and took the bike out and topped it in 5th gear without a twitch. Lesson learned. :laughings

Next on the list to get:
Trailtech DC Stator (when my wallet allows)
Ims black 3.1us gallon tank
lower offset triple clamps (that don't cost a kidney)
More when i can think of them.
 

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very nice

I didn't realize they changed fender mounts, the 15-18 YZ85 fender bolted right up on my 15 WR
 

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Sounds a lot like my story. Got off the street and my wife got me in to dirt. After having a kid though we just don’t have enough time to trailer the bikes out to ride. So like you I found this forum to get my bike street legal and start riding whenever I want. My bike is early in the process still. Your Yamaha is looking great! Enjoy the ride and stay safe!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Heyup,

been away on a breathtaking 4 day road trip on a borrowed sv650. The bike was glorious to ride but got carried away on some twisted and tested my luck resulting in a bike worth less than it was at the start.
so a day after i posted the thread the hotcams came in. YAY. I got extremely excited to the point where it only took me a couple of hours to swap them out, because these cams are new and after market i knew i would come across the issue of having to re-shim them again. But due to me having done them before left me with 3 extra shims from when i did the inlets. The exhaust shims were loose by a massive amount (cant remember the numbers of the top of my head). I didn't have to touch the inlet shims which was great and i also got sooo lucky the old inlet shims were enough to fill the gap and bring the exhaust gaps to spec :thumbup:.



I couldn't help but notice how much of a difference the cam lobes are.



They went in ok but i noticed the decompressor pin looked alot like the YZ one and at that point i started to wonder if i got the right one, not only that but the decompressor pin looked like it was getting stuck. I squirted a bit of engine oil in the moving parts of the cam and put it in hoping it would free off. Put it all in bolted the bike together then tried to fire it up but noticed it wouldn't even start and felt like it had no compression. After my final attempts of kicking it over it sputtered to life but wouldn't idle. (At this point i still had half excitement and half disappointment in me but was determined to at least get it going). Had to turn up the idle mixture screw and it finally idled, but upon taking off and going for the ride it would barely pull it self along in even second gear but when i got to 2/3 of the rev range it took off like a rocket and kept pulling. When doing this i thought it may have free'd off the decompressor but it still wouldn't pull itself at 2000-5000 rpm roughly.
It was getting late so i put the bike away in disappointment, rang up hotcams directly told me they'll happily swap the decompressor pin for me.

So that's where im at now. If you guys have any other suggestions other than what I've concluded with that cam please chime in. Kinda annoyed that i was sent the wrong exhaust cam AND its pin is stuck.

To answer replies, yes i was prepared to drill holes as it was cheap and didnt bother me but i also found out the fork width and the triple clamps themselves for the wr/yz 2012 and onwards are different, so that explains that. Also that narrows it down if i want triple clamps in future.

Cheers for the positive feedback and ride safe i will. Also want to note that being english, these aussie pride stickers do my head in, so a sticker kit and maybe plastics will be changed at some point. Just can't for the life of me know what sort of theme i will got with.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Back Again

So the Exhaust FINALLY came, woke up with the box thrown at me but like a giddy kid on Christmas i ran out there and went to work on bolting it on.





and on it goes, i love the look of it.



Don't know if many of you can see the problem there that i didn't until a few rides in but its where the exhaust is pointing.



Yes it blew the indicator to bits, on a positive note it sounds sooo good
and it also fixed the low rpm no power issue, its amazing how much a free flowing exhaust could make a difference but fuck it rips now.
Am now looking to get it dyno'd for the sake of my curiosity, allegedly it should make around 52-55 hp according to the internet :hmmm:

Another pic for the sake of bike porn




Now to update the list of things to get:
Trailtech DC stator (so i can put this expensive l.e.d light on)
new brake pads (I know this thread has been a bit quiet but was hoping to get some advice on it)
New tires (Frankly these cst tires have ok grip but they have an off feel to them)
Steel braided brake lines


An ims 3.1gal fuel tank was on the list but the 40t sprocket combined with the smooth throttle feel gets me around 133kms a tank even with a few wheelies here and there.

If anyone has any recommendations for what tires and brake pads to use or any experience they've had on there bike that would be highly appreciated.
Was thinking either conti attack SM or Michelin power rs or even pilot power 3.
Kinda clueless with this one because if never had to deal with them til now.

Cheers folks
 

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I thought going DC just required a mod to the stock stator and a new RR (and then wiring everything to run on DC)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I thought going DC just required a mod to the stock stator and a new RR (and then wiring everything to run on DC)
While that is true and i did contemplate that but the end goal was to be able to change it completely to stock if i wanted to without buying another one. Also after some research on wattage specs is seems that the trail tech kit gave higher and more stable power output at lower rpm's (cruising speed) and overall.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Alright, more updates.

Bought the trail tech 100w stator so i could FINALLY f***ing see at night with the cyclops LED light i've had sitting there for a while.



The Rectifier/regulator is alot bigger than expected and just barely clears the forks at full left hand lock. While it hasnt made any difference in the bikes behaviour its made the wiring of the bike simpler eg: removing the indicator wire connected to the battery so i can run it through the loom.

Also fixed the "exhaust blowing my indicator to pieces" issue, a bit of handy work made v1 of the indicator protector. but while its holding well it still creates turbulence of exaust gasses that black out the indicator anyway so stay tuned for v2. ;)





I dont have a photo handy right now except for this one that shows the new mirrors that i finally got. Those stock mirrors are thankfully burning in hell.



I was enjoying viewing this thread as a "build" but now its turned into me just throwing money at imperfections.

So he's a list of whats next for this WR450:
Shorter cnc'd levers
Sticker kit
Suspension re sprung and re valved
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Alright f*** it

Got a new toy





I've become so in love with supermoto's and there ability to CONSTANTLY put a smile on my face that ive gone an extra step in finding a bargain i couldn't refuse.
A YZ450f 2015 mint completely stock with 19 hours on it. I'm already picturing black Marchesini mag wheels on it, the number plate will go back on and a set of slicks.

i think you know where i am going with this.
It will get the same slipper clutch treatment as the original clutch never changed. Akra exhaust, the whole nine yards. My dad thinks ive gone mad.
I took it for its first ride today and it makes my modded WR look like 250 in comparison. I have no doubt it will be because of gearing differences and the weight of the sm wheels but the second i get the wheels for the YZ ill upload a vid on you tube of a drag race to compare them.

But this will all be for another thread
I also promise i will be more in depth with photo's and explanations on the modifications done to it.
 

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Awesome WR450F build, thanks for sharing. Will you be starting a new thread for the YZ450F? Street legal as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Awesome WR450F build, thanks for sharing. Will you be starting a new thread for the YZ450F? Street legal as well?
Thanks! The YZ will be in a new thread, it hasn't gotten anywhere yet due to the Italian holidays so the wheels for it have been postponed until the end of october :poo:
It wont be street legal though since it was such a pain to get the WR on the road and this one will be damn well near impossible. Its going to be set up as a sick track bike though. Look forward to getting started on it. :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Re-build

Even though it has only clocked 6950kms it started getting ridiculously noisy piston slap, I didn't think i had to take it apart so soon especially after hearing about stories of other WR's lasting double that on single tracks and constant enduro rides :headscrat
So trying to stick to oem parts i pre-bought gaskets, oil and filters ready to take this thing apart.





cleaned the carbon off of the head and got the gaskets ready.

Going through and checking all the clearances in the engine showed it was pretty damn good, the piston rings were at the end of its life but still in spec and the bottom end was at the tighter end of the clearance limit.



All in all seemed pretty good except for the barrel which someone attempted to hone previously.
Reason not to hone any Yamaha barrel is because they electro-plate there barrels with Nickasil. Google will tell you what you need to know and im not going to say that i know everything about it but as ive been told by a few mechanical engineers is that you don't hone it. It's very strong yet extremely easy to scratch and honing it will wear away the layer put in place from factory. Which is what happened in my case anyway.
It doesn't look too noticeable from the pic but i can feel a very significant step in the barrel as i ran my finger along it and the score marks on the bottom indicate its been honed leading it to be out of spec.



So a new barrel and rings were on order, was also clumsy enough to drop a wrist pin :clap:



New shiny barrel in which cost me a kidney and everything was timed, oiled and torqued. Someone told me "why didn't you go big bore or get an Athena kit?" My answer to that was it was only going to put more strain on the bottom end and considering these engines used to be bored at 400 then oversized to 426 then 450 to compete with other brands id rather leave it how it was designed. And Athena stamped on my barrel wasn't that appealing to me.

After that point things started going sideways for me from a simple stupid oversight, as well as taking off the timing chain tensioner i also wound it in and clicked it in place to stop it retracting for an easy re-installation but upon putting it back on it unwound all the way out without me realising and was pushing against the timing chain. Quite a few attempts were made at trying to start the bike but it felt a bit tight and i assumed it was the new rings and barrel.

After i took the cam cover off i saw the timing marks on the cams out of place and the timing chain was rock solid. Fearing the worst i pulled the head off again thinking i bent a valve but it didn't do any damage luckily, made a second attempt at putting it together properly this time but the cam timing was half a tooth out. 80 Australian dollars later a new cam chain was installed and seemed to fix that problem.

Next problem was that one of the M6 side bolt on the cylinder head that threads into the barrel snapped resulting in drilling it out and heli-coiling the new cylinder head. No photos were taken due to me stressing out a bit lol.

Could have been worse but yet another lesson learned :hammer:

After all that bollocks the bike started second kick. Now the slapping noise has gone its sounds really nice and has a bit better pick up but still feels like the same powerful beast i got an erection over. Will confirm it power wheelies 3rd. Also don't panic i did break the engine in as well.

Will need to post a wheelie pic but here is an old one for now.

 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just came to mind as well but thought i had to add this.
I found this from a thumpertalk thread and it helped me out alot since mine were jumbled and mixed when i bought the bike.



I went with:
A to B
E to G
C to D
F blocked off
I think F was for the AIS but thats was deleted by the previous owner.
Sourced from a thumpertalk thread pls dont sue me.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Been a while, still hooning around pulling wheelies in school zones.......



The lastest updates to the bike have been a 3.1 gallon IMS tank in which has eliminated my fuel anxiety, doesnt ride any different but is only slightly heavier to push the bike around. Still power wheelies in 3rd and gets me just over 200kms a tank :). Only downside is the fit and finish, and that fact that tank to seat gaps are a little big for my liking. I also dont understand why we have to buy the mx shrouds for a tank thats more likely going to sit on a dual sport than a motocrosser :unsure:.









Also found a indicator exhaust heat shield for ktm that so happened to be perfect for what i needed. Even though its a bit on the thin side i'm still using the same intact indicator.





Other than that the bikes been in storage for a while to save for the suspension work. Rolling it out of the suspension shop and riding home was a bumpy experience but once i tuned the clickers its now unbelievably amazing. As plush as it was with enduro suspension but with more firmness and so much more planted. I can now point the front end and the bike follows. Not like the pogo mess it was beforehand. They even painted my rear spring red. Only thing is now that its lowered my ground clearance isnt going to be what it was off road.





Next is tyres which will be going on it 1 week after i post this. Choice of Tyre is a Michelin Power RS so ill post a review of them and maybe conti attack SM's to see which i prefer and why.

All this work at the moment is for trying to save up for a booked in march 9 day road trip around Tasmania consisting of around 4000kms (3 on road oil changes). So ill be posting after that on how the bike went against 1000cc sport tourer's. Going to take the opportunity to show the world you can road trip a 450 sumo. ;)

 
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