SuperMoto Junkie banner

221 - 232 of 232 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Thanks for the info on the flywheel puller, I have found 35x1.5 but it is labelled as yz, not yfm, will it still be okay? Edit: Also, forgot to mention, this is not on the new model but the old model, a 2001 bike. Edit: Found this (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOTORCYCLE-FLYWHEEL-PULLER-M33-X-1-5-CAGIVA-HUSQVARNA-/151915674221?hash=item235ee13a6d:g:xfsAAOSwEK9UCGCc) which is 33mmx1.5 and says it is for Husqvarna but I just want to be sure that it is 35mm and not 33mm. Edit: Also, this website says it is a left hand thread: http://www.huskyclub.com/puller.htm Is it!?

Edit: Found this thread on Thumpertalk http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/409772-610-flywheel-puller

endoraator said:
Posted April 14, 2007 - 10:17 AM

#4


Today opened my brand new TE610IE to check all bolts and nuts. Noticed that it requires 35mm x 1,5 RH / female flywheel puller not 25mm x 1,0 RH / female as I was advised by some people.
And also from skim reading this thread I found exactly the post I was looking for:

-1 to pennies (at least Canadian ones - see pic.)
-1 to wet rag (at least my rags - see pic.)
+1 to impact gun which got the job done in less than a second.
To everyone wondering what size the thread is on the flywheel, it's 35mm x 1.5, just as the OP mentioned. I bought that exact puller and it works fine. Husky isn't even listed on the models it fits. The nut holding the flywheel on is 24mm. All threads are standard right hand thread. I just took these pics 5 minutes ago, I'm in the middle of this job myself. This tutorial gave me the motivation to do it!
Lucky I did too. The oil reed valve was kinda beat up... but still appears operational. I filed it nice, as the chain had chewed it up a little.
Good luck! I'm about 5 hours in, but I'm taking my time and making sure everything is cool. I hope to be riding it by Thursday evening!
So it looks like the answer is 35mmx1.5, right hand thread. Perfect.

I recall reading from DirtyHucker's cam chain replacement to use a brand new allen wrench -- I guess it is confirmed that this is definitely needed.

Can you tell me what size it is? I was thinking about getting one of the allen heads that is a socket extension.
I have just ordered a set of allen bits with a half inch adapter. One thing I am not sure about is how to hold the cam gear still without putting strain on the cam chain whilst cracking off the allen bolts, and, more importantly, torqueing them up. Any ideas?

Also, I can only assume those claiming the whole job in 5 hours are rushing like crazy, it has taken me eight hours just to get the rocker cover and stator off, I haven't even got near to taking the old cam chain off yet!

Dirtyhucker,

Awesome job documenting how to do this. I got my kit to replace my cam chain. I have not torn things down yet as I am at 8 clicks still, but getting ready.

1. Again, not torn things down, but when I look at the current water pump + gasket it looks like they have a gasket plus some additional sealing (gasket sealant?). Is it only a gasket or do they also add sealant?

2. In your picture of the left side case you show some dark brown gasket sealant where the gasket would go. Is it gasket only, or gasket + sealant?
I would also like to know the answer to this which frustratingly never got answered, I had the feeling it would be overlooked!:rolleyes: I remember on my car there were some things which required gasket+sealant but I can't remember the reasoning for it. Maybe it's time for (yet another) a Google session. Also do the rocker arm valve adjustment nuts have torque settings or not?

Edit: Come to think of it, this too:

My cam chain should be here soon so time to start thinking about rebuilding. Can someone tell me the torques for
RH cover bolts
LH cover bolts
Flywheel nut
Cylinder head bolts(just to check)
Rocker cover bolts
Waterpump bolts
I have a manual but as you know most things are labeled very vaguely. lol oh and any other torques I may have forgotten thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Dont worry about the cam, it only bolts onto the cam gear ONE WAY, so if the gear is aligned correctly the cam will follow and bolt up like a good cam should.




As good as this guide is, I must correct that bit. I found out today from a frustrating mishap that the above is not the case. It is possible to bolt the cam up to the cam gear the wrong way, what's more is that it is also hard to spot. There is a rivet on the back of the cam gear which gets in the way of the cam gear and cam shaft if you bolt it up wrong.

It is hard to spot as it is only a shallow rivet, hell, I didn't notice until I was rotating my engine by hand and noticed that the cam chain was not tracking straight. I then had a closer look and saw this:

Which resulted in a cracked cam gear:

Luckily from KTM/Husky they are only £40 rather than the £90 or so that I predicted. I was so paranoid about getting the timing right that I didn't notice. I heard a crack when I was torqueing the screws but I thought it was my torque wrench!

Anyway here are some more comparison pics of an old cam chain compared to a new one, the old one is the one with the black zip tie on it:



I can hardly see a difference, seems like a bit of a waste of money tbh.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
how many links?

Can someone give me a count on number of links in a 610 chain?
I'm trying to buy chain off the roll here in central America.
Tried to count off the photo but it's blurry.

I like the idea of splitting the chain.
Feed it through the cap.
Just need to peen a link together.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
I just bought my second 07 SM610, checked the CCT and it only had 2 clicks left on the rod :headshake Looks like I will be doing this hopefully in the next week or so.
I went ahead and called my local dealers and no one had the parts in stock, so I then called Hall's Cycles and turns out the had all the parts in stock. They were very knowledgeable, professional, and I would recommend them to anyone looking for parts.
I was able to get the parts for less than what the original post prices were plus $14.00 for shipping.
Cam chain $60.75
Water pump gasket $2.99
Valve cover gasket $0.99 each
Reed valve petal $5.25
Valve stop $5.99
Reed valve screws $0.99 each
Flywheel puller tool $29.50
They also gave me a little bit of a military discount on top of these prices so I was very satisfied. Parts were ordered and shipped 4/14/2016 and are scheduled to be at my doorstep 4/19/2016. Ill keep you guys updated! Cant wait to get the bike back on the road! :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
how many links?

Can someone please give me a count of how many links in the timing chain.

I found chain but don't know how long to order it.

Someone Please... take ten and give me a count.

I think I have found a solution to the timing chain stretch and grief and will post everything when I get it together.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
374 Posts
If anyone is looking, I've got a Timing chain, WP gasket, flywheel puller, and 3 Barnett clutch cables that I'd let go of for pretty cheap, sold my 610 last winter, don't need these parts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
374 Posts
If anyone is looking, I've got a Timing chain, WP gasket, flywheel puller, and 3 Barnett clutch cables that I'd let go of for pretty cheap, sold my 610 last winter, don't need these parts.
Sold this a while ago, figure I should let people know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Since there are two revolutions of the timing marks on the clutch side to one revolution of the punch mark on the cam gear, does this mean there are two different ways to align the cam gear? Meaning the first revolution of the timing marks and the punch mark on the cam gear is level with the head and towards the rear of the motor (as stated in the write up as the right way) then after the second revolution the timing marks would line up again but the punch mark would be faced towards the front (halfway or 180). And most importantly, does any of this matter, or as long as it lines up correctly originally and after spinning it around awhile it comes back to the same position it's all good?
You can set it either way. On both my bikes I set it towards the exhaust side/left and it has been fine.

The actual cam shaft doesn't move, only the orientation of the sprocket on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,971 Posts
Discussion Starter #232
All pics are reloaded onto the first post... thanks for the heads up hollywoodcrash

...Edit, damn photobucket had their watermark all over the place, right click each photo needed for detail and open in new tab and it will come clear as day. Happy cam chain quarantine day.
 
221 - 232 of 232 Posts
Top