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Hello again,today i started the process to change my cam chain.The tensioner was 15 clicks out and the chain was very loose.I bought this bike in this condition and i am doing a full service at this time.I painted the footpegs and the stand black powder coat and the exhaust protectors and engine covers also!I want also to paint rims and swing arm!I will uplod new photos when i'll finish it!Sorry for my English guys!I'm a member from Greece!:lol:
 

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Awesome job, simple questions

I've never ripped apart my 610 but I'm having the valves adjusted along with a few other things at a local shop. Do you have to break the cam chain on a 610 to adjust the valves? And what are the valve specs for intake and exhaust? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
 

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you dont have to break chain, just take generator rotor off. and valves are 0.05mm each. try to find manual they are easy to download if can not find i will send you pdf one. cheers
 

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This is a great thread with so much info in it............not that I'm being critical or anything but I think I'm right in saying the OP has got the figure wrong when it comes to the cylinder head nut torque settings (he's quoted 18.4 ft/lbs).

The manual isn't desperately clear (in text or pictures) but I read it as being 27.5 ft/lbs + 90 degrees :hmmm: This is for the four M10 nuts (two inside the head cover and two on the outside on the rhs as you are sat on the bike).

The manual does also quote a figure of 18.4 ft/lbs which I think is for the single M8 nut which sits at the front of the cylinder between the two exhaust ports.
 

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Big Thank you

That plug you mentioning that acts as a chanel for the water, that's where some engine oil is coming out of mine. Was driving me crazy why oil out of a water hoze. Totally makes sense now. I get on that and change some O rings.

Check your engine mounts people. The uper gets loose than botom ones could break.



MOVING ON...remove this plug that acts as a tunnel for your water to go throught the hollow space your camchain runs through...without removing this your camchain will not be able to be removed... keep in mind i am holding mine the incorect way in the pic, this was for demonstration purposes only. Its supposed to be rotated to be inserted correctly, this will allow the oring so sit over the tube. :)

remove the reed valve cover and the valve itself...



Now remove the cam chain tentioner... center Nut needs to be removed first, than the two 8mm screws can be taken off. CHECK IT! mine was at 7 still, oh well it was getting noisy anyway. The factory reapir manual states : IF YOUR CAMCHAIN IS NOISY OR THE TENTIONER IS AT 10 NOTCHES OUT, REPLACE THE CAM CHAIN.



OK, now is the fun part. Removing the Cam Gear Bolts. These bad boys are loctited on and it really showed when i was taking them off. HAVE A FRESH ALLEN TOOL!! IF you have an old one with any kind of rounded corners, YOU WILL STRIP OUT THESE BOLTS!! I had to have a wrench on the balancer nut shown in the pict to keep the cam gear from spinning the motor while removing the bolts. Good LUCK! :thumbup:



CAM CHAIN STRETCH, the one on the left is new and the right is old... lets say 1-2mm is alot of stretch for these badboys.

 

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Hi need help

Hello everyone I'm new here,
Yesterday I changed the oil in mine Husqvarna sm610 (2009) and when I was cleaning the lower oily filter then dropped the exact same goals and one whole little pieces!
Who will tell me why are they?
Thank you very much!
 

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Hi need help

Hello everyone I'm new here,
Yesterday I changed the oil in mine Husqvarna sm610 (2009) and when I was cleaning the lower oily filter then dropped the exact same goals and one whole little pieces!
Who will tell me why are they?
Thank you very much!
 

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Those look like the clutch spring cup washers.

Remove the right side cover, remove the entire clutch assembly, and look on the back of the clutch assembly for springs, check if there is washers on the end of the springs.

There is a member on ADV Rider, named Indy Unlimited, he has stronger and thicker washers for sale that you can replace the old ones with.
 

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Thanks to all yesterday we disassemble the clutch and this cup washers what was broken it's possible to change only cup washers?
or better to buy clutch hub complete?
Thanks
 

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Those look like the clutch spring cup washers.

Remove the right side cover, remove the entire clutch assembly, and look on the back of the clutch assembly for springs, check if there is washers on the end of the springs.

There is a member on ADV Rider, named Indy Unlimited, he has stronger and thicker washers for sale that you can replace the old ones with.
please can you give me mail Indy Unlimited, i whant to order this strong cup washers.
Thanks
 

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This has been a very good guide. It's helped me a lot stripping down my engine to change the cam chain. Although I haven't had to take off the clutch cover yet I managed to get my flywheel nut loosened by holding the flywheel with 20inch water pump pliers and then when loosening the 5mm Allen bolts in the cam gear I just put the flywheel but back on the crank shaft and held it with a spanner while I slackened the Allen bolts. Just a couple of questions. Does that water gallery that needs to be removed just pull out? And can I line up the timing by using the markings on the flywheel and cam or do I have to use the markings on the clutch side? Thanks guys.
 

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It has been a few years since I replaced my cam chain, but I recall that you pull it out. I don't recall it being fastened by anything else. Check out the image below where they show it being removed by using a bent wire to hook the inside of the barrel.

From the service manual -- the part you are referring to is "spacer (7)" in the paragraph below.

Disassembly of the water pump body
Remove five screws (1) (8 mm wrench) retaining the pump housing (2). Remove
the bushes (6). Remove the pump housing along with the packing (3). Replace
packing every time the pump is disassembled.
Remove the nut (4) (8 mm wrench) from the pump impeller (5). Lift away the
impeller.
Remove the spacer (7) with ?O? rings (8) from the water pump delivery hole. If
necessary, use an iron wire piece with a bent end to remove the spacer.


 

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Since this thread is not in context with Dirtyhucker's original posting, just note that in his image, as he pointed out, he is holding the water tube in the reverse orientation. The image from the shop manual that I posted above is the correct orientation.
 

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I just got the parts to do this job. It'd be great if you could take some extra pictures of stuff you learned along the way!
 

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Thanks circus that's great. I might try and take a few pics when rebuilding to show how I held the flywheel etc for loosening. I never used the penny trick or anything like that.
 

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So im halfway through and wow, all I can say is reassembly is gonna suck. Did anyone else have trouble getting clearance to get access to the exhaust header bolts due to the bend in the pipes? The top ones were fine, but I had to take the saw to my #5 Allen to make clearance! WTF.
 

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I am not so sure that the headers need to be removed . . . I took mine off when I did my cam chain, but afterwards I recall that I did not really need to take them off.
 
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