A HOW TO : 610 Cam Chain Replacement

so heres how it goes... ive only gotten as far as you see at the end of the pics... treat them as a timeline from start to finish, ill be keeping the order of the pics as the order i took them. :thumbup:

Ok to start...
This is before the surgery... im realy digging into this project of mine, im going to get into the forks next, so keep your eyes pealed for i might do another one of these here picture help guides, dont take this as the manual in any way, i'd hate for someone to start this thats not competant enough mechanically and be mad at me because i didnt take enough pictures...this is just how I did it. ENJOY!!!:thumbup:

Dump the old oil!!!!! While the oil is draining, remove all the plastics from your bike, including the tank, and air box(you might not have to take off the airbox, but all i have is the K&N and i have to clean it so thats why i took it off, i also opted taking my carb off so i could rejet.):thumbup::clap: Gettin her naked is my favorite part, looks more and more like robobike that anything...

Youll need to take off the hoses and breathers from the head to the frame.


Heres where youll benefit... disconnect these two plugs

And gather the harness


Go ahead and remove your exhaust, you may not need to remove your fender/battery backing plastic to remove the exhaust, but if ya cant get to those Can hanger bolts ya might have to if ya havent done so already... Dont forget to RTV that bad boy exhaust of yours' Joints before re-install.:thumbup:
Oh, did i mention draining your coolant? Youll see where the coolant drain hole is in the following pics as well as a little catch up if ya forgot anything, did ya forget to pull the clutch cable? It does route through your radiators, and by removing the clutch cable I found it easier to remove the RADIATORS!!! yeah, im fluching those out too, and replacing that blue crap with some pink crap... h2o wetter...
To Remove coolant: Take off rad. cap. Loosen the Fluid drain screw on the front of your case. youll see in the pics where it is, just look for the Blue hole. While backing that out be careful as you remove the screw, dont let that little hole fool ya, with that cap from the radiator off that fuid will come gushing out quick so keep your hand over the radiator fill and controll the flow, make sure you have a pan and dispose if the fluid properly:thumbup:

Ya wondering why i am missing my lower subframe bolt??? The leo vince systems utilize that as an extra mount in the installation. It does make it sturdier.





NOW,Since we're all free and clear of distractions in our workplaces/ engine bay/ engine compartment, whatever you want to call it start by removing the upper engine mount, and the oil return line's TOP bolt, and pull it away from the head cover.

To the other side.... Remove the water pump cover, dont worry about the gasket because you have a replacement, You did order a replacement right? ( the parts list is the first post of the thread) there are two dowells that stick out from the case so be careful to ONLY PULL STRAIGHT OUT, not up or down with a mallot, theyre real thin dowells. Then remove the o-ring from the lower water outlet.

Oh yeah, back off those 8mm bolts too from around the head.





SO..... thats as far as i got last night,

TOTAL TIME INVESTED : 2Hours
TOOLS: normal t wrenches 8mm 10mm 12mm 13mm
normal oil change tools 12mm and a that certian size allen
(if you dont understand the size of the oil drain bolts, you shouldnt be doing this project):lol:
regular hand wrenches
Some needle nose pliers
something to cut zip ties Dikes/ razor
basic screwdrivers
coolant drain pan
oil drain pan
DONT FORGET RAGS
Ill be popping off the cover from the engine maybe tomorrow (gotta enjoy the 4th with a good party!!!)

ENJoy the following pics, take note of what i have lying in my parts piles, yours should look similar.

ok so i spent a few hours today finishing the install of the cam chain... fun stuff, learned a ton. Ill let ya know right now, dont forget to put the plug/seal for the waterpump back onto the cam BEFORE you install the gear and camchain... that was my only setback.
So i left off here, all i did was loosen the last two 5mm allen screws, and pulled the top off



So when everything is off it may be somewhat stubborn to pull off, so... husky has done and installed small lips into the casting of the cap and this will allow us to gently tap it off with a punch and a small rubber mallot..


So with it loosened off those alignment bushings, i pull it off.





AND SET THAT BAD BOY ASIDE!!! (ive done something cool with mine)

ILL GIVE YA TWO GUESSES.....

TO BE CONTINUED..........

Continuing... ok go ahead and take off your sprocket guard, and your shifter ( i couldnt get mine off, but i wish i could have)

Take off this cover by removing the numerous low grade screws around the stator cover.(there are two longer screws and one short screw at the top above the starter... DONT FORGET WHERE THESE GO) The cover should come off quite easily, i tapped mine a little to jimmy it loose with a small rubber mallot. Set the cover aside, though do not let it hang free by the wires.


Take off your rt. side peg and brake lever, pull that cover off as well (i had to to make the penny jam because i dont have the fancy flywheel holder for when removing the flywheel nut) oh its factory torqued at 95ftlbs torque by the way...


Lookey at what i found!! check yours as well.

Jam your penny as shown, I cant say i reccomend this though... heres a better idea....
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/view/gear_jammer_gear_locking_tool/

Now that you have the nut off of the crank, its time to put your flywheel puller to the test, and hope your penny doesnt give out first... yes its definately on there tight and the tool will not fail the job, just keep crankin untill ya hear a pop, youll be fine.

VOILA!!! Look at that beautiful sight!! I was so woried that my chain had eaten up my reed valve cover, but it was only so minimal i almost overlooked it.



to be continued...

and another hint for ya...

EDIT!!: you dont need the penny in the clutch/crank grears anymore once the flywheel nut is removed. The Puller itself holds the crank steady as you can see how i utilized the crecent wrench and the foot peg. :thumbup: sorry...

MOVING ON...remove this plug that acts as a tunnel for your water to go throught the hollow space your camchain runs through...without removing this your camchain will not be able to be removed... keep in mind i am holding mine the incorect way in the pic, this was for demonstration purposes only. Its supposed to be rotated to be inserted correctly, this will allow the oring so sit over the tube.
remove the reed valve cover and the valve itself...



Now remove the cam chain tentioner... center Nut needs to be removed first, than the two 8mm screws can be taken off. CHECK IT! mine was at 7 still, oh well it was getting noisy anyway. The factory reapir manual states : IF YOUR CAMCHAIN IS NOISY OR THE TENTIONER IS AT 10 NOTCHES OUT, REPLACE THE CAM CHAIN.



OK, now is the fun part. Removing the Cam Gear Bolts. These bad boys are loctited on and it really showed when i was taking them off. HAVE A FRESH ALLEN TOOL!! IF you have an old one with any kind of rounded corners, YOU WILL STRIP OUT THESE BOLTS!! I had to have a wrench on the balancer nut shown in the pict to keep the cam gear from spinning the motor while removing the bolts. Good LUCK! :thumbup:



CAM CHAIN STRETCH, the one on the left is new and the right is old... lets say 1-2mm is alot of stretch for these badboys.

REPLACEMENT OF THE CHAIN:This is tricky, and it takes some serious attention to detail. Which abviously... i found my attention span to be a bit short.

But, Before i start... before i put my cam back in, i RE-TORQUED my cylinder head bolts.

Cyl head nuts = 18.4 ft lbs

Cyl Head Screws = 8.1 ft lbs (the 5mm allen ones under the WP)

Cam Gear Screws = 18.4 ft lbs With 242 (blue) loctite:thumbup:

To be continued....

Ok... Here's the turning point of when we start putting stuff back together!!! :clap:

Now that we have our old cam chain out of the bike and the new one waiting to be put in... Set your timing marks on the clutch side to top dead center, no need for straws or bbq skewers to check it this time, we have MARKS!!:thumbup:


Now with your Cam Chain Fished through that passageway in the motor, loop it around the crankshaft and pull it tight from the top. put in your cam, and cam gear (without bolts) into its position and wrap the chain around the gear. (this is the most tricky part of the job)Try and keep your tdc marks on while fenangleing with that chain.


With your engine in TDC, your cam needs to match this. There is one punch mark in the edge of the cam gear, it needs to line up with the case like so... MAKE SURE IT LOOKS LIKE THIS, ONE TOOTH ABOVE OR BELOW THIS MARK WILL THROW OFF YOUR TIMING.


Dont worry about the cam, it only bolts onto the cam gear ONE WAY, so if the gear is aligned correctly the cam will follow and bolt up like a good cam should.

Now, you should have your motor at TDC, your cam gear mark aligned with the edge of the head, fit the chain to the gear and slip the gear onto the cam. making sure your cam gear still holds its timing mark to the head.

Heres a bit from the manual: Reassembly of camshaft:

Fit the chain into the gear (1) while resting the gear on the inside wall of the head
and with the notch on the outside and aligned with the head cover mating surface;
- lubricate the cams with engine oil and insert the camshaft on the gear following
the timing as shown in the picture;
- replace and tighten the two screws (2): 25 Nm-2.55 Kgm-18.4 ft/lb (+LOCTITE
242).

Notice in this Picture: Blue Loctite.... and no plug installed for the waterpump!! I had to disassemble the cam gear and start all over since the plug goes over that cam spindle. DONT FORGET THE CAM PLUG

With the cam plug installed




Ok, now that you have the correct timing and correctly bolted the cam gear to the cam, rotate the engine a few times and see if the cam gear marks and the Timing marks by your clutch line up again. should be two revolutions of the timing marks to one revolution to the cam gear marks.
Put on your gasket maker if everything checks out timing wise

Button down the head cover


TORQUE SETTINGS:
Cyl Head Cover Screws = 6.5 ft lbs
Oil Connecting Hose = 14.5 ft lbs

DONT FORGET TO CHECK YOUR VALVES!!



Re install everything else you took off, The next step would be to make sure your cam chain tentioner is installed, Re- install the flywheel, the secondary cover, the main flywheel cover and then torque to the proper specs of 5.8 ft lbs (double check this in the manual :thumbup

Make sure your Reed Valve has been re-installed:thumbup:



I was curious to what diffrence the new chain made with the tentioner...

Torque the Flywheel Nut down to 95ft lbs, as well as de-grease the shaft it sits on. I utilized the penny trick once again for this task of torquing.


Finished!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!




As far as the rest of it goes i dont think i need to take pictures for that, but if you want em ill have em handy. This has been a fun little fix and if i hadnt been taking pics nearly every step of the way it would have only taken 5-6 hours for the first time, ifi were to do it again, it would probably take maybe 2 hours time.

Ill be flushing out my radiators, and hoses before i reinstall them and fill with watter wetter. Ill be lubing up all my cables after i rejet and reinstall the carb, and im thinking new fuel lines and breather hoses...

I hope everyone gets something out of this, especially the fact that if you can ride it you should be able to MAINTAIN and FIX it too, and its really not that scary if you have the time.

ENJOY!!!

Stay Tuned for - 610 Forks: How To Rebuild Em...