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So you leave your crank case breather (connection is under left front fairing) open ended?

My solution for this was - reinstall crankcase breather from under left front fairing to Rott. baseplate. The other hose coming from the SAS (emissions I guess), I built a small filter on the open end so it's still filtered and functional.

Anyway, went for the first ride today and man, this thing rides so much smoother and rips like no tomorrow with the PCV mapped to Rott Intake and Wings slip on. One thing, do I need the fuel dongle too?
That makes good sense - I have the same setup - filter too.


The fuel dongle is designed to take out the majority of the trim area of the fuel map. The places where the bike runs closest to llambda and sometimes leaner (by design).

The fuel dongle is essential if one is useing the powercommander _ as it disables the correction the ecu is doing in the area up to 5000rpm at upto 10%throttle(iirc). (Closed feedback loop area) this allows a static program to be used in those areas.

If you are running without catalyst and emissions - then your bike will adapt to this area eventually.

If you want to fix your fueling ratios if your modifying timing - it will give you stable results to use the dongle.


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The pulsing of the front brake when coming to a stop and trail braking got to be unbearable. It seems like getting brake parts in Australia from Beringer, Galfer, or Braking is a PITA. You either get a local distributor who is useless, or a price that is outrageous. Luckily our local Brembo dealer got me a Serie Oro disk and SC compound pads for a decent price. They went on in less than an hour and work a treat. I didn't realize how bad it was until I could properly trail brake without front end bouncing again. As it turns out, front brakes that actually work properly are shit hot. I fitted some Bridgestone S22 a few weeks ago and they are also a revelation. The late 2015 build date Conti's that were on it (original) when I bought it were well past their use by date. I still need to fit springs front a rear that are better suited to my *ahem, frame. Local suspension god Andy Offer (Aark Suspension) will get me some K-tech springs when I have time to remove the shock and forks.

No other dramas apart from a little oil consumption and the stem nut locking bolt vibrating out on Saturday. It didn't look like there wasn't any loctite on it from factory. A little 243 and torqued to spec so should be fine now.

Lot and lots...and lots of wheelies.
 

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Hi all,
I'm new to the site and tbh to supermotos as well, but Ive always wanted one since I drove a super dodgy mix of everything you could find 72cc Dirt bike converted to something roadlegal ish (but not really) for a few years as a teenager.
Long story short, I read/watched all the reviews i could find and recently bought a 2020 701 SM and I'm looking to get funky!

What is done/planned so far before Spring before I start properly using it:
  • Akropovic slip on (dealer delivered wrong model initially)
  • R&G tail tidy with new back light (but with stock indicators)
  • new led front light
  • skid plate
  • R&G fork and swingarm protectors
  • R&G engine case covers (not Loving the brown-bronze)
  • other handguards
  • other mirrors
  • seatconcept seat
  • new stickers (big fan of the front, but the back misses something)
Now I've read the first and last 30 Pages of the thread and have seen pretty much all the modification videos on YouTube as well, but I'm looking for some straightforward rookie advice, advice tó a rookie that is.

What are the modifications or upgrades other 701 owners would recommend to definitely get from the start, and which ones to get after a while when it's properly broken in, field tested and when I'm comfortable with the bike?
(Sprocket change, mapping, air intake, PC, ... anything not stock that noticably increases handling and performance)
I wouldn't be looking for the most hp or the lowest weight so much, but "optimizing" the bike a bit and getting good alround throttle response are on my checklist for example.

Any issues or known weaknesses to pay special attention to in the beginning/ in the long run?

I know this is mostly a matter of personal taste and preference, but I'd still love to hear a few replies!

Cheers and thanks in advance!
 

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Get familiar with what a clutch slave cylinder failure feels like. It is posted in this forum.

Performace mods should be Rottie Air Intake, PCV (properly mapped or go deep with AutoTune), exhaust (I have Wings), fuel dongle (to eliminate OEM ECU fighting PCV settings.)
 

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Get familiar with what a clutch slave cylinder failure feels like. It is posted in this forum.

Performace mods should be Rottie Air Intake, PCV (properly mapped or go deep with AutoTune), exhaust (I have Wings), fuel dongle (to eliminate OEM ECU fighting PCV settings.)
Yes I've read the descriptions of the clutch slave cylinder in the earlier parts of the thread.
The issue has not been fixed since the 2016 models?

Would it make sense to start with just a 15t front sprocket and fix the performance mods you listed later on?
 

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Yes I've read the descriptions of the clutch slave cylinder in the earlier parts of the thread.
The issue has not been fixed since the 2016 models?

Would it make sense to start with just a 15t front sprocket and fix the performance mods you listed later on?
15t is a fun mod - the bike accelerated pretty hard stock, and with the 15t it will be very peppy but it’s not as nice if your doing highway miles for a spell.


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Yes I've read the descriptions of the clutch slave cylinder in the earlier parts of the thread.
The issue has not been fixed since the 2016 models?

Would it make sense to start with just a 15t front sprocket and fix the performance mods you listed later on?
I have a 2018 and the OEM slave cylinder failed. I have no idea if the issue has been fixed. People have been replacing them with Rekluse which are far more superior.

Can't speak to sprocket sizing. All my non-cosmetic mods were completed after engine break-in.
 

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Sprocket sizing is a very situation oriented decision. It depends on your roads and your riding style. If you are on any higher speed highway driving where you use 6th gear and wish you had more gears then you might just want to stay at stock or even go down on the rear. If you are mostly at the lower top speed stuff and doing a lot of point/shoot blast tight cornering and want more pop then going down on the front sprocket could be the way to go. Try it if you want to see how it works for you. It's not the worst thing to go back and forth if you want to.
 

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Fast forward to 2020 and I'm not quite sure anything was updated on the slave cylinder. I bought a 2020 701 SM a month and a half ago. Slave cyl. took a dump on me while headed home from Deals Gap the other day. I was 200 miles from home!

Sad part was, I knew better! I was gonna order the Oberon cyl. before the trip but decided not to because I assumed Husky would have fixed this issue already. Nope.

It's all good. Oberon is on the way! 🤘
 

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Fast forward to 2020 and I'm not quite sure anything was updated on the slave cylinder. I bought a 2020 701 SM a month and a half ago. Slave cyl. took a dump on me while headed home from Deals Gap the other day. I was 200 miles from home!

Sad part was, I knew better! I was gonna order the Oberon cyl. before the trip but decided not to because I assumed Husky would have fixed this issue already. Nope.

It's all good. Oberon is on the way! 🤘
The old KTM Slaves are the same... just had one go on a 2001 EXC200... It was OEM replaced too
 

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Still looking for recommendations on LED front turn signals...... Low profile is a must.
Check out my turn signals. Motogadget Pin.. Used a plastic spacer to push them out so the light clears the headlight fairing. Honestly just got lucky with how well they fit. No drilling needed.
 

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Check out my turn signals. Motogadget Pin.. Used a plastic spacer to push them out so the light clears the headlight fairing. Honestly just got lucky with how well they fit. No drilling needed.
Those look sweet, they're not something I'd chance though, they're highly illegal in Australia. that low profile....
 

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So, my slave cylinder went out on my ‘18 701SM. I bought the correct Oberon slave for it. My mechanic, who is a KTM/husky expert, installed it and the clutch comes out so far that it hits the inside of the clutch case. It was past closing time, so he didn’t have the time to work on it anymore, today. Does anyone out there know what would cause this? I have ASV F3 short levers on it. But, I don’t think that’s the issue. I know other people who have the same set up. Thanks!
 

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So, my slave cylinder went out on my ‘18 701SM. I bought the correct Oberon slave for it. My mechanic, who is a KTM/husky expert, installed it and the clutch comes out so far that it hits the inside of the clutch case. It was past closing time, so he didn’t have the time to work on it anymore, today. Does anyone out there know what would cause this? I have ASV F3 short levers on it. But, I don’t think that’s the issue. I know other people who have the same set up. Thanks!
My best guesses..
  1. there's too much fluid in the system, or
  2. the M/C piston is not able to extend fully to self adjust. There's a bleeder port inside the M/C that is closed off the moment the piston moves forward in the bore. This allows excess fluid to return to the reservoir (aka self adjust).
 

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If I were you, I would restart the entire project myself. Remove slave cylinder and rebleed. Shouldn't take more than a half hour to get it all done.

That's far too simple of a job for a mechanic to mess up, that's why I suggest just doing it yourself to rule out any error the mechanic might have commited. Of course, it is likely there maybe another underlying issue.

There should be several vids on youtube if you want some guidance! 🤘
 

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So, it turns out someone sold me the wrong Oberon slave cylinder. I’m not even going to get into who. It doesn’t surprise me, though. Because I let them work on my 701 over a year ago and they butchered it. And, I had to threaten to sue them, to get them to fix it. I bought the slave at that time, to install when my OEM unit failed. When my mechanic, who is so good, got into the clutch he found that the middle clutch plate nut was loose. He said, it’s supposed to have a washer that can be folded down, like the one on the countershaft bolt. But, he said that it was not there and there was no washer behind the nut. So, those two things together allowed the outer clutch plate to rotate one notch in the basket and end up in a short notch instead of a long notch, where it should be. This clutch has never been opened, So that part of it is the fault of the factory. It looks like there is no damage. So, my guy is ordering that washer and he’ll put it back together with the correct slave cylinder.
154909
 

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Just bought a leftover 2019.


In the past I've owned a couple modded DRZs, a 690 SMC and a 2017 701. I owned the 1st Husky when I was basically at sea level, and it was a goddamn beast. I could easily clutch it up in 3rd.

Now I'm at 5,000' and this thing feels awfully weak. Having trouble lofting the front. Already ordered a 15T for the front.

I'm looking at adding a PCV and pipe. Can anyone weigh in on the fuel consumption they've experienced with the PCV and their 701?

I have the full Rottweiler setup, PCV and exhaust on my KTM 1190R and those mods were great for power, but dropped my fuel range by ~40 miles.
 

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So, it turns out someone sold me the wrong Oberon slave cylinder. I’m not even going to get into who. It doesn’t surprise me, though. Because I let them work on my 701 over a year ago and they butchered it. And, I had to threaten to sue them, to get them to fix it. I bought the slave at that time, to install when my OEM unit failed. When my mechanic, who is so good, got into the clutch he found that the middle clutch plate nut was loose. He said, it’s supposed to have a washer that can be folded down, like the one on the countershaft bolt. But, he said that it was not there and there was no washer behind the nut. So, those two things together allowed the outer clutch plate to rotate one notch in the basket and end up in a short notch instead of a long notch, where it should be. This clutch has never been opened, So that part of it is the fault of the factory. It looks like there is no damage. So, my guy is ordering that washer and he’ll put it back together with the correct slave cylinder.
View attachment 154909
The last plate is supposed to be offset one tooth.
 
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