[INTREPER]

Those of you with the 625 SMC, how often do you guys change the oil in these bad boys? I hear it's a pain in the butt to do. :headscrat

 

[Jolly705]

Recommended every 3000 miles but I changed mine every 1500 since I was using it on the track and I am anal about that. The oil change does suck compared to other bikes but it is not as bad as it is made out to be. It takes twice as long but it not THAT bad but than again maybe that is becuase I sold mine last month :laughingr

 

[Gerg]

I just did mine after about 2,000 miles or so, and it was pretty murky. I'll probably try going 1.500 or so and see how that goes.

I do need to come up with a funnel or pump or something to get oil into the frame tube, that's the biggest PITA about the whole process.

Oh, and don't strip the head of the drain plug at the base of the frame tube like I did, either. That's a major PITA to fix.

 

[JoeKher]

Recomended 3000 miles, I do it 1500-2000 depending on abuse. The change isn't that bad once ya do it. KTM shows you how to make the oil cap fill in the owners manual and sells the tubing to do it.

 

[Moistmaster]

It is a Royal PITA, but I went to Autozone and bought a jug with a hose attachment, which makes putting the oil in the frame a hell of a lot easier, replacing the small oil filter is a PITA too, having to move the rear break outa the way, and don't forget to get plenty of gaskets for the small Oil filter too. Overall it took me about an hour

 

[youngblood]

KTM likes pushing oil to important parts so their oil distribution and cooling system on the LC4 is more complex than your average tub. It isn't half as hard as what most folks moan about on this topic. If it is too hard take it to a KTM dealer ya pussies! :lol:

A couple of tips I've found to be helpful:
For filling the frame: Get a bottle of gear oil/jack oil from Autozone that comes with a pointed cap.

Dispose of the gear oil (it's usually is under $3) and use the bottle to fill the frame with a quality synthetic. Surround the tip with a shop rag so when it is topped off you don't get oil all over the place. If you are really smart you'll buy the one with a graduated marker on the side so you can put the exact amount you need for the frame (600ml if I recall correctly and 1300ml goes in the crankcase).

For the small filter: Do not remove the oil supply lines as it is unnecessary and will ultimately cause a leak as the fittings require fresh crush washers to properly seal (just like a brake line) if ever removed. Instead remove/loosen the rear brake lever to give yourself plenty of room to get at the area, then remove the filter cover being careful not to damage the gasket. The little cover will swing up out of the way so you can access the filter inside. It is a good idea to clean the outside of the engine before this as it is a tight space and easy to get dirt in there if it is above the filter cover/on the cases.

Buy an SXC instead:
You don't have to do the frame thing but you double the frequency of oil changes.

 

[Gerg]

I don't even loosen the brake lever to get at the small filter. I just take off the cs sprocket cover, and that gives me enough room to pull the cover off without touching the oil lines.

 

[INTREPER]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. It doesn't look like its that big of a deal after all if you just use a little common garage ingenuity.

 

[drokes]

Check out the following link, some guy named Creeper gives directions and PICs to help the process. I have not followed it yet, as my first oil change will be at the dealer, my second will be all me.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57107


2:50 pm PST, yea i agree, he is a wealth on knowledge, i also am going to follow his valve adjustment topic.

 

[Gerg]

some guy named Creeper

He's about the #1 definitive source of good info for the LC4's. His article (again, with pictures) on ADVRider is amazing! Thanks to that article, I don't have to shell out big $$ to a dealer to check valves.

 

[SCQTT]

I'm going to do my first one this weekend, I have a set of OE and K&N filters so I'll check out what looks better. (the K&N does have a handy nut on the end of the filter)

400 miles, Motul conventional

 

[Gerg]

I've used both filters, and I have to say I'll be sticking to the K&N from now on. That nut at the end of the filter makes all the difference in the world, as far as I'm concerned!

 

[kendall_smith]

I've used both filters, and I have to say I'll be sticking to the K&N from now on. That nut at the end of the filter makes all the difference in the world, as far as I'm concerned!

same here- not to mention that they are less expensive, easier to get, and easier to work with

 

[sunofnun]

Damn.. that was so good, I threw a copy up on my site..


http://miahdesign.com/KTM/KTM_oilChange/

 

[bmxr]

I just wanted to agree with these two yahoo's. My experience exactly!

It isn't half as hard as what most folks moan about on this topic. If it is too hard take it to a KTM dealer ya pussies! :lol:

I don't even loosen the brake lever to get at the small filter. I just take off the cs sprocket cover, and that gives me enough room to pull the cover off without touching the oil lines.

 

[eSONG]

where do you guys buy the gasket for the lower oil filter? anyone have a part number for it? i can't seem to locate it at the the big ktm parts stores online. thanks.

 

[wopachop]

where do you guys buy the gasket for the lower oil filter? anyone have a part number for it? i can't seem to locate it at the the big ktm parts stores online. thanks.

if it aint leaking you dont need to replace it esong

 

[eSONG]

if it aint leaking you dont need to replace it esong

ok, thanks. owner's manual makes it sounds like it needs to be replaced every change..

 

[JohnSBA]

Buy the gaskets at any KTM dealer, they're cheap, get 4 or 5 at a time. I replace mine on every change, it does leak after a change or two.

 

[justin80]

I replace the gasket every time. It will leak if you re use it.