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Discussion Starter #1
ive been in the process of making my 06 450smr street legal for some time now, and in all that time, searching for a complete list of parts brings me nothing. so i have gotten together a list of everything i have done so far and put it into a list with part numbers, prices and distributors. not everyone will need this list with all these parts, but it will give you an idea what really is involved with making a 450 street legal.



there are some things on this list that are optional, and there are definately other ways to get it done, but this is just an example of how i did it.

some of the parts i used are more expensive than the factory parts, and others are cheaper. you could use a factory KTM flywheel instead of the trail tech one, but the trail tech is lighter (still heaver than the stock smr flywheel) and cheaper than stock, but other parts like the moose stator is more expensive than factory (by about $100).

all the prices listed are straight msrp, so everything could possibly be had for cheaper.

i also have some parts that are not used that i have. the e-start kit comes with a high output sx/smr stator, but it is not enough power to run the lights and charge the battery, and that is why i have the moose stator.

if i come across something i have left out, i will be updating the list.
 

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Well done. What do you think of of the kickstand? I've been given the run-around by all the retailers (trail-tech, promoto billet, etc) about kickstands, they've been telling me that they don't have a kickstand that will fit my 560 smr. Is it the right length, are you happy with the fit, finish, and look? You should post some pictures now that you've finished.
 

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damn the stator is abit pricey, you can buy a ktm 450 exc stator new from munn for like $139.00
 

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Buying used parts is the key to doing this cheap
Except for the fact that used part can take a crap on you at anytime... I waited a couple of weeks for my Ebay EXC stator then another week or two for Dale at Trick Dual Sport to do the DC conversion just to have it take a crap on me 3 months later...

Trailtech has a good stator (high output) for about $130.... That's what I ended up replacing it with.... :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well done. What do you think of of the kickstand? I've been given the run-around by all the retailers (trail-tech, promoto billet, etc) about kickstands, they've been telling me that they don't have a kickstand that will fit my 560 smr. Is it the right length, are you happy with the fit, finish, and look? You should post some pictures now that you've finished.
I love the way it works, except that it leans a little bit more than I would like, but not enough to make me nervous about it. The trail tech site says “Go ahead - stand on the bike and kick it. Trail Tech kickstands are guaranteed to hold up to the riders weight."1 but I wouldn’t do it. Mine is a little loose around the pivot, but I am about 270lbs. ill post some pics once i get everything finished and get my side cover back on this afternoon.

damn the stator is abit pricey, you can buy a ktm 450 exc stator new from munn for like $139.00
Except for the fact that used part can take a crap on you at anytime... I waited a couple of weeks for my Ebay EXC stator then another week or two for Dale at Trick Dual Sport to do the DC conversion just to have it take a crap on me 3 months later...

Trailtech has a good stator (high output) for about $130.... That's what I ended up replacing it with.... :thumbup:
Im not too sure about the output with the stock stator, but the trail tech one only makes 100w. My bike uses 115w just for the headlights when im running the high beam. (high beam switch turns on high light, low light, and running light) and I don’t like the thought of my lights crapping out on me on a dark ride home one night.

And Hollywood, with the moose stator, they have directions to do the dc conversion, and it took me all of 10 minutes to do it with their instructions. (ill have a pic up later explaining it because the directions are kinda confusing.) I don’t know how it would work using the stock exc parts, but with the moose kit its not a problem.

Buying used parts is the key to doing this cheap
I hate buying used parts. I have bought used in the past for my cars or my other bikes, and you never really know what youre getting until it shows up. Plus doing it this way, and now letting everyone know, will show how much you will need to spend to get it done using all new parts, and get it right the first time.



1 direct quote from the trail tech website.
 

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I love the way it works, except that it leans a little bit more than I would like, but not enough to make me nervous about it. The trail tech site says “Go ahead - stand on the bike and kick it. Trail Tech kickstands are guaranteed to hold up to the riders weight."1 but I wouldn’t do it. Mine is a little loose around the pivot, but I am about 270lbs. ill post some pics once i get everything finished and get my side cover back on this afternoon.





Im not too sure about the output with the stock stator, but the trail tech one only makes 100w. My bike uses 115w just for the headlights when im running the high beam. (high beam switch turns on high light, low light, and running light) and I don’t like the thought of my lights crapping out on me on a dark ride home one night.

And Hollywood, with the moose stator, they have directions to do the dc conversion, and it took me all of 10 minutes to do it with their instructions. (ill have a pic up later explaining it because the directions are kinda confusing.) I don’t know how it would work using the stock exc parts, but with the moose kit its not a problem.



I hate buying used parts. I have bought used in the past for my cars or my other bikes, and you never really know what youre getting until it shows up. Plus doing it this way, and now letting everyone know, will show how much you will need to spend to get it done using all new parts, and get it right the first time.



1 direct quote from the trail tech website.
I looked at the Moose, but I really don't think I would ever need that much power...

And, trust me, I learned my lesson this time with buying used electrical off Ebay.... :thumbup:
 

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Really good writeup and parts list, but you forgot to include the cost of moving out of Kalifornia! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #10
you act like moving out of commie-fornia is that expensive. you could sell whatever you own out there, and move to texas and have a house bigger than you owned in cali built and still have money left over. housing and cost of living is pretty cheap out here, and we have lots of land just waiting to be bought up. you forget how big texas really is.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
i have a few more things to add now.

first i have the wiring to the stock regulator to convert the bike to dc. (this is how to do it with the moose kit, i DO NOT know about stock exc parts, and take no responsibility for you messing something up)



you take all the wires coming out of the regulator except the ground wire (black/white) and wire them together before the plug.


the way i have my lights wired up is so that the low beam is one light, and the high beam has both lights on. there are lots of people that have done this, and a few write ups that i have found on here and thumpertalk. just use the words resistor or diode in the search box and it should work.

take a resistor, i think its a 6a 12v(not sure of the size anymore just make sure it will work with 12v, ask a salesperson at radio shack or go to your local stereo shop) and wire the two hot wires for the high beam and low beam together using the resistor with the silver stripe on the resistor on the end closest to the low beam light.



in this pic, the blue wire is for the low beam, and the red wire is for the high beam. the black wire is the ground for both lights, but just soldered together.


last pic stolen from sabasilo on thumpertalk. i would like the thank them for the pic.
 

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I'm not planning on putting a battery on my 560 SMR, is that going to pose any problems?
 

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I don't have e-start and am not looking to add it, so the battery seems to be just extra weight...and hassle!
 

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hate to say it, but i have no idea how to do it without a battery. im sure someone can chime in on that.

whats so bad about using a battery? its not really that heavy.

I plan to use a little NiHm battery for mine from an RC car. would be nice to have the tail light on at night incase your stall =p
 

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Guess either (1) you didn't search all that much or (2) mine wasn't good enough =/

http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=pQzepZKUmewWHGy1Jkq-gGw

I didn't update it though after I replaced the Moose Rectifier. Trust me it's a P.O.S. it blew up on me 2 hrs after getting my plate. Rick's Motorsport Electrics (I think that's the name) hooked me up with a very high quality unit, after 2+ hrs it's cool enough to touch bare handed.

Wiring at:
http://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=ddvqjk4c_2g3gjsm&hl=en
 

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Probably wouldn't hurt if we put a solid writeup together and stickied it. There are parts throughout here, but a lot of searching in between. I think there are probably in the neighborhood of a dozen or so converted SMR's on here.

One thing I would almost add as a mandatory for the street conversion is a cushioned hub for the rear. Hardparts has it for around $500 for the complete rear setup (I had to wait 2 days shy of 6 months for mine though!!!). I ran the stock 5" for a year and basically destroyed 2 chains and the rim (chain slap) in about 1300 miles. Fingers crossed that all the internals are still ok.

Also, good idea to keep a small back pack with you with a tool kit in, basic stuff, 8/10/12 T-tool. Pliers. 10 open end, 13 open end, and an axle tool. The chains stretch pretty quickly and you don't want to be left having to putt home while the chain is gouging the rim.



Battery wise: I used a 1.2Ah sealed lead acid from SicAss, Radio Shack carries almost the exact same one. It's not that much weight really and it's nice piece of mind knowing that that along with my headlight turned off will let me run for 2 hours of tail/brake light and turn signals, headlight on I've got around a half hour. There are battery eliminators (large capacitor), but I haven't tried one and I'd have to refresh on my Engineering Physics 2 to figure out what would work best. The NiHm batteries I believe have to be charged separately with a wall wart. I don't think they'll charge right with the stator. So, keep that in mind if you go that route.
 
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