45 Watts enough Juice?
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I had a 45W coil on my YZ450F running an LED tail and Acerbis Diamond headlight. Headlights would dim to a glow at idle. Voltage was so small at idle the taillight would not work until I was on the throttle. Not safe if you ask me. I ended up investing in a 200W E-Line coil (~$500) which was fantastic and required no battery. Initial investment was steep but I sold it on Ebay a few years later for $300.
The battery should help combat the dimming issue you will likely face, but I don't know to what extent. If you're going to be keeping the bike for a while and riding it a lot around town, invest in the E-Line unit now ($460 for YZ250) and enjoy your bright, worry-free lights.
Cheers
The battery should help combat the dimming issue you will likely face, but I don't know to what extent. If you're going to be keeping the bike for a while and riding it a lot around town, invest in the E-Line unit now ($460 for YZ250) and enjoy your bright, worry-free lights.
Cheers
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Its only going to have headlight, tail light, brake light and a horn. Turn signals are not required here in SC. We dont even have an inspection here in SC. All I need to do is have insurance and my street title and they will hand me the plate.
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1,616 Posts
it'll 'work' if you dont plan on doing actual night riding.
it'll be dim at night, and you're limited to the smallest standard bulbs (~35watt).. and they will dim at idle.. remember, you barely make 40watts at rpm.. at idle, its LOW.
if you can find a bigger stator, you're better off buying it. im limited to that size with the CR500*, and it sucks.
(*without going external or with a different ignition)
it'll be dim at night, and you're limited to the smallest standard bulbs (~35watt).. and they will dim at idle.. remember, you barely make 40watts at rpm.. at idle, its LOW.
if you can find a bigger stator, you're better off buying it. im limited to that size with the CR500*, and it sucks.
(*without going external or with a different ignition)
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144 Posts
My SMR had about 45w output and it wouldn't keep up with the load at night.The headlight can be turned off during the day[bad idea] and it would keep up,pretty much the stoplight was the only daytime draw.At least I was forewarned by the guy I bought it from.
I was doing some FS road riding last weekend on my WR. The headlight was nearly out unless I had it pegged. Then came the heavy rain and I had to run the lights. Battery (new) wasn't holding a charge long and it was begininng to misfire from lack of output............in the mountains...............in a hail storm.............
I am running a 50W Moose (Electrosport) lighting coil on my CRF150r with an Acerbis Cyclops headlight. I did swap the 55W bulbs to 35W. The headlight is actually pretty good at night as long as you are above idle.
Note: I do have it wired directly to the coil (AC output), not sure how everyone else has theirs wired. IF you convert to DC of course the current draw will be much higher. I have the rest of my lights (turn signals/tail/stop) wired in a DC circuit with a small 1.3AH battery.
Note: I do have it wired directly to the coil (AC output), not sure how everyone else has theirs wired. IF you convert to DC of course the current draw will be much higher. I have the rest of my lights (turn signals/tail/stop) wired in a DC circuit with a small 1.3AH battery.
remember, if you rectify the 40 watt output to convert it from AC , which is what it puts out, to DC, you will lose even more watts - you will go from 40 down to 30 or 35 at best. You cannot run a battery unless you convert to DC by using a rectifier. Now, there is nothing wrong with running straight AC as it comes standard. Your 35 watt halogen light will run fine on AC. Using an LED tail light will be crucial - the Baja Designs LED tail light also runs fine on AC and only pulls about 1 watt. You will still want to run a regulator, which keeps the voltage at 12 and prevents spiking, which would blow your bulbs. For your horn, use a battery powered bicycle type horn , like the megahorn - uses a single 9v transistor battery. A normal DC motorcycle horn pulls 20-25 watts, and you don't have those to spare. Oh, one more thing - the lighting output is totally seperate from the ignition output, so the coil does NOT pull any of the available watts from the lighting circuit.
you might want to check out the numerous posts I made on thumpertalk under the YZ450 section regarding electrical setups for my street legal 07 450. I even posted a wiring schematic.
any other questions let me know, and I'll be glad to help.
you might want to check out the numerous posts I made on thumpertalk under the YZ450 section regarding electrical setups for my street legal 07 450. I even posted a wiring schematic.
any other questions let me know, and I'll be glad to help.
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8,635 Posts
I have a Baja Designs enduro kit with a 35/35 headlight bulb & 23 peanut bulb tail light.
So........ I need to picking up the battery kit Wheeling Cycle offers to go along with the charging coil and LED tail light?
I never thought this would be so difficult!
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So........ I need to picking up the battery kit Wheeling Cycle offers to go along with the charging coil and LED tail light?
I never thought this would be so difficult!
.
Hmmm 40 watts.
My Husaberg FE501 had a lighting coil, and I am sorry I don't remember the wattage.
When I converted the Berg to sumo I put in a Malcome Smith "battery eliminator" battery in line to keep the lights brite at idle at stop lights.
It was the size of a D battery with a pos and neg hook ups and a LED light to let you know it was powered up.
It was some type of NiCad set up M/S sells and it worked for around a year till one day while riding on hot day I heard a "bang" and I blew the puppy apart.
I purchased another one and it worked till I sold the bike!
My Husaberg FE501 had a lighting coil, and I am sorry I don't remember the wattage.
When I converted the Berg to sumo I put in a Malcome Smith "battery eliminator" battery in line to keep the lights brite at idle at stop lights.
It was the size of a D battery with a pos and neg hook ups and a LED light to let you know it was powered up.
It was some type of NiCad set up M/S sells and it worked for around a year till one day while riding on hot day I heard a "bang" and I blew the puppy apart.
I purchased another one and it worked till I sold the bike!
what year is your 250? if it's a newer model, 06 and up, i doubt there is an e line high output coil for it. I know for a fact they don't have one for the 06 and up 450's.
here's a thought if you insist on a battery - run only the headlight with the 40 watt AC output. If you rectify it and add a battery, the headlight will drain your battery pretty fast. So keep it AC and just power the headlight only and that will be fine. Use LED turn signals, LED tail light, and even the IC horn from the battery powered kit at Wheeling. It uses 8 AA batteries and since you're using LED stuff that draws less that 1 watt, it will keep it powered for a long time.
For the issue at night if the tail light went out - just run a red reflector on the back of your bike. For many states, if the tail light is not battery powered and only runs when the bike is running, they mandate a rear reflector for this very reason.
The battery eliminator mentioned is merely a capacitor, nothing else. Again, just like a battery, you need to have a DC system.
here's a thought if you insist on a battery - run only the headlight with the 40 watt AC output. If you rectify it and add a battery, the headlight will drain your battery pretty fast. So keep it AC and just power the headlight only and that will be fine. Use LED turn signals, LED tail light, and even the IC horn from the battery powered kit at Wheeling. It uses 8 AA batteries and since you're using LED stuff that draws less that 1 watt, it will keep it powered for a long time.
For the issue at night if the tail light went out - just run a red reflector on the back of your bike. For many states, if the tail light is not battery powered and only runs when the bike is running, they mandate a rear reflector for this very reason.
The battery eliminator mentioned is merely a capacitor, nothing else. Again, just like a battery, you need to have a DC system.
for an 01 e-line might make a higher output system, but as others have said it's quite expensive, as it includes an oversize billet ignition cover. But you don't really need it - you've seen my 07 YZ450F, and a low output stator can be made to work just fine as long as you chose your components carefully. The wheeling kit is nice - I use several of the components on my bike and it would make things simpler for you with less hassle.
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