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Discussion Starter #1
So I've got a lot of questions from you experienced smcr owners.

First is there any upgrades for the headlight? I've seen a few around but the websights only say they are for 2018 enduro.

Next sprockets. I've done a lot of research on this and I decided to just go for a 44 tooth in the rear and I was looking at the supersprox stealth. It sounds like it should work with the aluminum center and steel teeth anyone have any experience with it? Also if I go from 42 to 44 in the rear will I need a longer chain? Also are their any benefits to getting a different chain?

Next is seat concepts is it really that much better then the stock?

Next handle bar risers is that a thing for supermoto? I've got poor riding posture and I feel like If my handlebars were a bit higher it would force me to sit more upright.

Next the traction controll and abs lights if they are on the Tc and abs are on if the lights are off then they are off correct? Or is there more to it then that? The manual was a bit vague with those details.


I already own a 2012 heritage classic and a 2018 bmw r1200 gas adventure and picked up my 19 smcr 4 days ago so chains sprockets and supermotos are still new to me but any help would be appreciated.
 

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Can give a few suggestions to a few of your Q’s

1. You might get away with adding 2 teeth to the rear. Probably not.
Try adjusting the wheel full forward and see if you think you have enough spare?
An option is a second joining link, and a “half link” - need to be the same brand. Potentially difficult.
- One tooth off the front would be a similar change, without needing a new chain.
(15/42 = 2.8. 15/44 = 2.933. 14/42 = 3 - slightly lower.)
- As I’ve written on here before On my 2017 701SM. I was going to lower the gearing, until I got it “tuned”. Now I feel it doesn’t need it, at all.)
Supersprox Alloy/Steel would be a great option.
Food for gearing thought.

2. You can get handle bar spacers/raisers (kit with several options) - I think any “KTM” set would work. Try them see if it’s more to your liking.

3. I bought a seat concepts seat - heaps more comfortable (for my 2008 690). The extra width made the bike feel even taller, and the wide seat while great on the touring sections didn’t “fit” the “Supermoto” style - moving around while cornering. I used it once.... Might be different models available.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Can give a few suggestions to a few of your Q’s

1. You might get away with adding 2 teeth to the rear. Probably not.
Try adjusting the wheel full forward and see if you think you have enough spare?
An option is a second joining link, and a “half link” - need to be the same brand. Potentially difficult.
- One tooth off the front would be a similar change, without needing a new chain.
(15/42 = 2.8. 15/44 = 2.933. 14/42 = 3 - slightly lower.)
- As I’ve written on here before On my 2017 701SM. I was going to lower the gearing, until I got it “tuned”. Now I feel it doesn’t need it, at all.)
Supersprox Alloy/Steel would be a great option.
Food for gearing thought.

2. You can get handle bar spacers/raisers (kit with several options) - I think any “KTM” set would work. Try them see if it’s more to your liking.

3. I bought a seat concepts seat - heaps more comfortable (for my 2008 690). The extra width made the bike feel even taller, and the wide seat while great on the touring sections didn’t “fit” the “Supermoto” style - moving around while cornering. I used it once.... Might be different models available.
I appreciate thg he fast reply.
I've read on another thread that if you get a front sprocket to make sure you get the "thicker" sprocket or the seal will leak and that just sounded like something I didn't want to deal with.
By "tuned" are you talking about something like power commander or something else?


For the 2019 they have a low version of the seat concepts but it will have less padding I felt if I went with that option I would be stuck with the same problems as stock. The comfort seat for the 2019 is wider in the back. As a 6'2 tall person when I'm on straight aways I ride in the back so it seems like it would work for me but you said it was a world of difference so I'll take it highly into consideration.

Thanks.
 

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I appreciate thg he fast reply.
I've read on another thread that if you get a front sprocket to make sure you get the "thicker" sprocket or the seal will leak and that just sounded like something I didn't want to deal with.
By "tuned" are you talking about something like power commander or something else?


For the 2019 they have a low version of the seat concepts but it will have less padding I felt if I went with that option I would be stuck with the same problems as stock. The comfort seat for the 2019 is wider in the back. As a 6'2 tall person when I'm on straight aways I ride in the back so it seems like it would work for me but you said it was a world of difference so I'll take it highly into consideration.

Thanks.
The original front sprocket has a rubber “damper” built in. I believe to make it quieter. Couldn’t notice the difference when I replaced it with another “standard” looking one. Pretty sure any “KTM” front sprocket is fine. (But I’m no expert).
No matter what, leaking around the counter shaft is something that can happen, eventually - then you install the replacement seal kit from KTM (easy) and it’s all good again.

By “Tuned”, I meant getting rid of the hellishly lean “Pollution Tune” that comes stock. Particularly bad at “cruise” - where “they” test them. I did it with a Power Commander. PCV.

As I’ve mentioned before: My bike was not “happy” to cruise at 100km/h (60mp/h) in 6th. It was “chuggy” and unresponsive. Better in 5th, especially if acceleration was required. Thought it NEEDED gearing down. Tuned it (In my case, also modded the airbox and pipe). Now it’s smooth at 100km/h in top and accelerates like a jet with the twist of the throttle. Where before I was often in 5th, now I’m looking for 7th. That’s the difference!!


The seats are a personal preference. And depend very much on your priorities. (I don’t do long rides. Always where quality push bike padded pants under my leathers, and try and laugh a little at how hard the seat is.)
 

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Regarding the seat: KTM changed the seat in, I believe, 2012. The new one is way better than the old one. I think a lot of the negativity towards the 690 seat was because of the early ones. I haven't tried the Seat Concepts, but I swapped my 08 to the new KTM seat and am happy with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well a few updates.

Turns out if the abs light and traction controll lights are on then traction controll and abs are off if that makes sense.

I've somewhat gotten used to the stock seat even though I will eventually get a seat concepts. Handle bar risers will also eventually happen as well.

I did decide on skipping the sprocket for now. I ordered a arrow exhaust and tekmo header with the rotweiler intake and a power commander V. By the time my current sprocket is worn out I'll have a better idea of what I actually want to do with it.

The bike is already due for its first 600 mile service it kinda makes me sad I can't ride it till I get the stuff to get that done it's hard to stop riding this bike I'm In love with it!!!
 

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Well a few updates.

Turns out if the abs light and traction controll lights are on then traction controll and abs are off if that makes sense.

I've somewhat gotten used to the stock seat even though I will eventually get a seat concepts. Handle bar risers will also eventually happen as well.

I did decide on skipping the sprocket for now. I ordered a arrow exhaust and tekmo header with the rotweiler intake and a power commander V. By the time my current sprocket is worn out I'll have a better idea of what I actually want to do with it.

The bike is already due for its first 600 mile service it kinda makes me sad I can't ride it till I get the stuff to get that done it's hard to stop riding this bike I'm In love with it!!!

Yes, you're right. The lights are on so you know that the electronics are disabled. You'll figure out pretty quickly that TC will prevent the bike from wheelieing, unless you bounce the front up off something like a speed bump. By turning TC off you can bring the front end up on demand from throttle roll ons.

Your first service should be done by your dealer if you want to maintain the bike's warranty.
 

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Yes, you're right. The lights are on so you know that the electronics are disabled. You'll figure out pretty quickly that TC will prevent the bike from wheelieing, unless you bounce the front up off something like a speed bump. By turning TC off you can bring the front end up on demand from throttle roll ons.

Your first service should be done by your dealer if you want to maintain the bike's warranty.
I can do wheelies in mode 2 with Tc on.
Honestly I assumed the power commander, full arrow exhaust, and rotweiler intake would void my warranty so i went ahead and did the 600 myself but its whatever I guess I had already planned on voiding the warranty eventually.
 

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I can do wheelies in mode 2 with Tc on.
Honestly I assumed the power commander, full arrow exhaust, and rotweiler intake would void my warranty so i went ahead and did the 600 myself but its whatever I guess I had already planned on voiding the warranty eventually.
You should try wheelies in mode 1 with TC off; I find that I can keep the front end up maybe 20% longer than in mode 2, likely due to the electronics smoothing out my throttle inputs.
 

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Your first service should be done by your dealer if you want to maintain the bike's warranty.
That's a big misconception; Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act says differently:

 

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I have a 018 Husky 701 SM & KTM 690 Enduro,
The Husky has the same engine/frame as your 019 KTM, as far a SM is concerned.

1. Down 1 tooth C/S sprocket, use only a KTM/Husky rubber cushioned c/s sprocket.

2. the BRP /Scott’s steering damper set up rises the handle bars and add need adjustable damping.
3. For the money Seat concepts seats are amazing, it will increase comfort on long rides, but because of its flatter top design, will make the bike seem taller.
Enjoy
 

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I can do wheelies in mode 2 with Tc on.
Honestly I assumed the power commander, full arrow exhaust, and rotweiler intake would void my warranty so i went ahead and did the 600 myself but its whatever I guess I had already planned on voiding the warranty eventually.
Hows the bike doing with the upgrades? I felt the same as you and was going to drop down a tooth on the front before doing the exhaust, air and PC.
 

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I’ve been chasing the Supermoto dream for longer than most of these guys have been alive..I’ve had some truly Exotic examples, TM Racing 530 Black Dream, TM Racing 450, ATK 605 SM, Aprilia 550 SXV modified to a Van den Bosch replica, just to name a few, my 018 Husky 701 SM is one of the best SM I’ve ever owned, reliable, even when modified, my biggest gripe and future thing to fix is the TERRIBLE front brake, going to remove the ABS and have a direct line, other than that it’s amazing..
 

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I’ve been chasing the Supermoto dream for longer than most of these guys have been alive..I’ve had some truly Exotic examples, TM Racing 530 Black Dream, TM Racing 450, ATK 605 SM, Aprilia 550 SXV modified to a Van den Bosch replica, just to name a few, my 018 Husky 701 SM is one of the best SM I’ve ever owned, reliable, even when modified, my biggest gripe and future thing to fix is the TERRIBLE front brake, going to remove the ABS and have a direct line, other than that it’s amazing..
So you do recommend dropping down a tooth in the front to make it 15/42 AND upgrading the exhaust, air filter, sas delete and add power commander?
 

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So you do recommend dropping down a tooth in the front to make it 15/42 AND upgrading the exhaust, air filter, sas delete and add power commander?
Yes

But I may be looking for something different in that bike than you.
Drop the gearing No problem, it’s a great move.

Modifying the exhaust system, air intake system, power commander , will all add more power, but also make it LOUDER, make the power band a little less Broad. ( harder to ride)
But most SM people do these things because that’s what we’re looking for in this type of bike, HOOLIGAN..
Bottom line this is a reliable , turn key alternative to taking a motocross bike, and setting it up for the road ( real Supermoto)
And with the right bits and can be skimmed down in weight, and increased in performance.
If I were you drop 1 tooth C/S sprocket, add a Wings muffler.
Start there...
 

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Yes

But I may be looking for something different in that bike than you.
Drop the gearing No problem, it’s a great move.

Modifying the exhaust system, air intake system, power commander , will all add more power, but also make it LOUDER, make the power band a little less Broad. ( harder to ride)
But most SM people do these things because that’s what we’re looking for in this type of bike, HOOLIGAN..
Bottom line this is a reliable , turn key alternative to taking a motocross bike, and setting it up for the road ( real Supermoto)
And with the right bits and can be skimmed down in weight, and increased in performance.
If I were you drop 1 tooth C/S sprocket, add a Wings muffler.
Start there...
I dropped down 1 tooth in the front and now the bike wants to cut out if I snap the throttle from closed in 1st to do a wheelie. This is in mode 1 and 2 with TC on or off. Do I need to reset something? It does it in less than a second. Doesnt happen if I clutch it up or roll on to it though.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Problem is gone after upgrading.

I added the Tekmo Header, Rottweiler Intake, Arrow Muffler, SAS/Canister Delete and PCV. It really woke the bike up. I initially ran it with DB Killer in, took it out for about 100mi and then put it back in. It seem as though there is more torque down low with it in. Could just be me though. At least the neighbors won't hate me as much.

I also might be going to 44 or 45 in the rear since this bike will never be on the highway. I'm thinking that I might be able to get away with the stock chain and flipping the blocks.
 

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I dropped down 1 tooth in the front and now the bike wants to cut out if I snap the throttle from closed in 1st to do a wheelie. This is in mode 1 and 2 with TC on or off. Do I need to reset something? It does it in less than a second. Doesnt happen if I clutch it up or roll on to it though.

Any help would be appreciated.
feels like this: power builds in launch, things start happening, then the bike suddenly pops out like its almost coming out of gear, and you almost smash your helmet on the bars from the abrupt lurch, and you're going WTF just happened, right?

I have a sneaky suspicion that you're actually over anticipating things and pre-weighting the quick shifter slightly with your foot when you're tensing your body up to hold onto the soon-to-come-up front wheel, thinking ahead to the upshift, and the pre-weighting is triggering the quick shifter enough to pop out of gear for a sec or something - it took me a bit to work out what I was doing, but I did that a few times right when I got mine until I learned to keep that left foot far away from the shifter unless you're wanting to shift. you can't pre-weight a quick shifter.

mode 1 will let the front end come up a few inches on a hard drive, but then chops the spark to keep the front end low so it'll fight your wheelies if you bounce or clutch them up, mode 2 lets it float up on demand from throttle alone and I can't tell much of a diff in real world urban assault riding on dry roads between mode 2 with TC on or TC off other than with it off I get about half the rear tire life and drift wide on corner exits when I roll on the throttle.
 
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