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Hi all, i have a few questions which have probably been asked a lot but there is so much info to sift id thought id just ask.
Picked up a 2012 smcr the other week with 14000km on. Akra end pipe. Standard filer no idea what map is on it. The db killer was out when i got it and straight away it wasnt running well. Backfiring like mad and blowing the rubber throttle body off the engine. Also stalling when blipping at idle. Put the baffle back in and its much better but still backfiring a fair bit. Its crazy jerky/snatchy at low revs also. Pretty sketchy going around roundabouts as its difficult to control the throttle. It surges forward. Anyway ive ordered the evo 1 open airbox lid and a friend with tuneecu is going to check what map i have and download the evo 1 map. Im hoping its still standard as that would explain a lot.
My questions are;
1. Will the evo 1 map cure the snatchy throttle and stalling at idle?
2. Is kevs O2 mod definitely worth installing?
3. Is the only real way to sort these bikes out a power comander and dyno tune?
Cheers
 

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Hi all, i have a few questions which have probably been asked a lot but there is so much info to sift id thought id just ask.
Picked up a 2012 smcr the other week with 14000km on. Akra end pipe. Standard filer no idea what map is on it. The db killer was out when i got it and straight away it wasnt running well. Backfiring like mad and blowing the rubber throttle body off the engine. Also stalling when blipping at idle. Put the baffle back in and its much better but still backfiring a fair bit. Its crazy jerky/snatchy at low revs also. Pretty sketchy going around roundabouts as its difficult to control the throttle. It surges forward. Anyway ive ordered the evo 1 open airbox lid and a friend with tuneecu is going to check what map i have and download the evo 1 map. Im hoping its still standard as that would explain a lot.
My questions are;
1. Will the evo 1 map cure the snatchy throttle and stalling at idle?
2. Is kevs O2 mod definitely worth installing?
3. Is the only real way to sort these bikes out a power comander and dyno tune?
Cheers
Do your homework. You need to with these bikes.But to save you some effort you have similar symptoms to what I dug through last spring in my 2010 SMC. Before you spend on other things, I'd replace your fuel filter and get a new injector (or get your injector cleaned professionally by a race shop as the holes are fine and this is something you can't do in a tub at home) and possibly a new fuel pump- cycle works makes a better replacement in a kit. People always assume that it's the engine management but it could be that the engine management is fighting some poor maintenance by the previous owner. I bet the bike ran fine when the previous owner had it originally set up with that exhaust, but over time didn't do the maintenance and the bike is just off a bit. I"m thinking that you have a clogged injector and/or a clogged filter. the internal fuel line hose breaks down sitting in the gas, creating a sludge that can get into the pump, and the fuel pumps are kind of high in the tank, so they get hot if the previous owner didn't keep it topped up, which they obviously don't like so there are two things conspiring against their longevity. if I've got it right in my head, when you put in the db insert it makes the bike run richer, further evidence of poor fuel delivery.



if the battery is low the bike does odd things as well occasionally, but a good rip on the highway usually sorts that one out.


As for the throttle, try doing a throttle reset and the 15 min idle reset after all the above, and thats about as good as you're going to get. you have a powerful fuel injected single, you have to be smooth with it. I cheat and move my hand so part of my palm rests onto the hand guard to steady it for fine adjustments in rough corners
 

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So I thought i'd note some stuff here (don't want to start a new thread) after a lot of reading of various forums.
(correct me if i'm wrong btw)

My bike is a '12 SMC-R with Akra pipe, normal filter and 02 and SAS still on the bike
Currently the map thats on the bike is the km765eu12b0233 (EP&FI) and the bike starts easily, doesnt hunt and has good throttle at low RPM.
I have stalled it a few times, but thats probably user error (mainly use Performance EP mapping)

Note 233 is a combination of 2012 EVO1 FI (KM765EU12B0231FI) and stock 2013 EP (KM765EU12B0216EP).
Also note there is no AKRA map post 2011, the EVO one covers the Akra pipe.

Another thing i noticed is that the km765eu12b0233FI map has the same setting for all tables F1,2&3, L1,2&3, I1,2&3
154612


154613


154614


154615


Meaning that once you load the 233 mapping all that the mapping dongle does is change the EP settings not the Fueling (The throttle map looks like it is relative RPM)

154608


154610


154609



I need to test this against AMA's Relative RPM and report back
154607


(unless someone else has already tested the above)

There is also the chance of setting the throttle map to 100% where it means you get what you ask from the engine, but I believe the consensus is an RPM relative mapping is better

There is also the myth of changing the F-L setting to 10-10-0-0-0-0-0 but this seems to be a bad idea for bikes post 2011.

Other info:
The neutral map is what ECU using in Neutral and when the clutch is pulled in.
If revs drop from clutched to take off it could be that the neurtal map is to aggressive compared to the others.
Suggestion is to copy the 'Soft' throttle map to the 'Neutral' table

2012 Stock: KM765EU12B0215 (EP, FI)
2012 EVO1: KM765EU12B0231 (EP, FI)
2013 Stock: KM765EU12B0216 = KM765EU12B0202 (EP, FI)
2013 EVO1: KM765EU12B0233 (EP, FI)
 

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2012 / 2013 are considered one of the best years before fly bye wire came into play . Vortex ECU made these years very tune-able and run like a beast .
I have Vortex on my 2012 got from Richard at Vortex years ago , now you can still get one from Tokyo mods , I have seen a few guys basically same maps .
I’m running EVO 2 map with Akrapovic and Cam runs like a beast .
 
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