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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I got to wondering if the reservoir on the Magura clutch on my brand new 2010 SMR510 was filled (since it doesn't have a sight glass for external verification). I took the cover off and a few CC's of the clear liquid came pouring out. I placed the cover back on, tightened the cover screws, and now it is seeping fluid constantly. It still works just fine, but after every ride I have to clean up some mineral oil from around the master cylinder and surrounding areas. Anyway, this brings me to a couple questions:

1. How did they fill the thing so full at the factory? Do they inject it from the slave cylinder, thereby compressing the diaphragm in the master cylinder reservoir?

2. Why is the fluid that comes from the factory clear when Magura Blood is blue? Is Husky using some sort of other fluid? Should I bleed out the factory stuff for the blue Magura Blood? Is there another mineral oil/fluid that you guys would suggest?

3. Is the best way to change out the fluid from the bottom (slave) to the top side (master)?

This is my first experience with a hydraulic clutch on a motorcycle.
 

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Mine spewed a bit out of the M/C cover after I fitted the slipper clutch. All is good now though. Don't sweat it
 

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All you need is mineral oil. Its available in all your favorite fragrances at your local store :D I currently smell lavender when I pop the lid to check the level.

The hydraulic system is a gravity bled system, flows from top-down. To replace the oil or bleed the system, put a small hose on the bleeder on the slave. crack it loose and let drain into a bucket. While watching it drain, start pouring in new fluid. Keep it full by topping off with new oil as the level of old fluid goes down. If you want to replace all the oil. go until the old color is all gone, if your just bleeding the system, go until only fluid is coming out of the bleeder.

One other thing to know is the hydraulic system is self contained. So if you need to take it off the bike for whatever reason, or take the slave off the engine, etc.. All you have to do is remove the 3 bolts on the slave housing. But DO NOT squeeze the lever while the slave is out. The piston doesn't have any pressure against it (like pressure from clutch springs) and has enough pressure of its own to brake the lip on the inside of the housing and push the piston and snap ring right out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
All you need is mineral oil. Its available in all your favorite fragrances at your local store :D I currently smell lavender when I pop the lid to check the level.

The hydraulic system is a gravity bled system, flows from top-down. To replace the oil or bleed the system, put a small hose on the bleeder on the slave. crack it loose and let drain into a bucket. While watching it drain, start pouring in new fluid. Keep it full by topping off with new oil as the level of old fluid goes down. If you want to replace all the oil. go until the old color is all gone, if your just bleeding the system, go until only fluid is coming out of the bleeder.
Thanks for the reply.

So, you don't have to pump the clutch lever over and over and over the way you do when bleeding the brakes? Just open the bleed valve on the slave and let gravity do the rest?
 

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Thanks for the reply.

So, you don't have to pump the clutch lever over and over and over the way you do when bleeding the brakes? Just open the bleed valve on the slave and let gravity do the rest?
yup, just make sure the M/C cover is open...let gravity take over.
 

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All you need is mineral oil. Its available in all your favorite fragrances at your local store :D I currently smell lavender when I pop the lid to check the level.

The hydraulic system is a gravity bled system, flows from top-down. To replace the oil or bleed the system, put a small hose on the bleeder on the slave. crack it loose and let drain into a bucket. While watching it drain, start pouring in new fluid. Keep it full by topping off with new oil as the level of old fluid goes down. If you want to replace all the oil. go until the old color is all gone, if your just bleeding the system, go until only fluid is coming out of the bleeder.

One other thing to know is the hydraulic system is self contained. So if you need to take it off the bike for whatever reason, or take the slave off the engine, etc.. All you have to do is remove the 3 bolts on the slave housing. But DO NOT squeeze the lever while the slave is out. The piston doesn't have any pressure against it (like pressure from clutch springs) and has enough pressure of its own to brake the lip on the inside of the housing and push the piston and snap ring right out.
Been trying this (as well as 4 other methods for the past 4 hours) and no dice! Nothing flows! I can't get anything out of the bleeder. How do you start the flow once you crack it open? I have zero clutch pressure.
 

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Been trying this (as well as 4 other methods for the past 4 hours) and no dice! Nothing flows! I can't get anything out of the bleeder. How do you start the flow once you crack it open? I have zero clutch pressure.
If the cap on the MC is open and the bleeder on the slave is cracked, it should start slowly flowing due to gravity. It bleeds quite well this way and you don't have to be there while it bleeds letting you work on other things.
Suck it out with a syringe and a tube that fits on the nipple on the slave.
Sean, have you tried this way? It works great too...
 

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I did it that I put the syringe down there into the nipple, the nipple slightly open, the tank cover open, gently pulled the syringe.
Then press it there when the fluid does not come from the air and do not allow the empty syringe, then goes to air in the system.
Ask your friends would rather help, to put the nipple stick, clutch lever, it is desirable to keep in place, that it did not get there within the piston oil seal overflowing out of position
 
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