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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased a 2010 510 smr about a month ago with 4500 miles. Put less then 30 miles on it running around town and heard a loud noise in 6th gear which sounded like chain slap. The noise only occurred when I got on throttle in 6th gear. I thought maybe it was just chain slap since the chain seemed fairly loose. I ended up checking the valves which were all in spec and i also tightened up the chain. I figured i would start on a fresh oil change since i just bought it from a private seller. I ended up dropping the oil and there was a ton of metal shavings attached to the magnetic oil drain plug. I also pulled out part of a gear tooth. Almost all 3 screens and oil filter had metal shavings. I am assuming 6th gear in the trans went but why 6th gear??? I would have thought it would have been a lower gear, unless its a bearing that caused 6th to go.

Either way I have come to terms with it all that I got screwed or I have the worst luck ever. Nothing like getting to know your new bike right off the bat by having to do a full rebuild. Is this something that would have just went or gone over time?? Did i get screwed or have the worst luck ever??

Does any one have experience with 2010 full tear downs? I am going to put a new piston set, bearings, gaskets, and any worn components in the transmission. Should i look to replace anything else? I am going to inspect every part and look for wear. The guy said he has never done anything with the motor besides standard maintenance so is there anything at the 4500 mile mark that i should look to replace??

Any help is greatly appreciated. I will be posting pics of the complete tear down, overhaul, and rebuild.
 

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Make cafehusky your friend if you plan to do the rebuild yourself. Shit happens though, I wouldn't say you got screwed or have bad luck. Its yours now, make it so. Just fix it and move on. 510's are the shit anyway, love em.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah I'm over it, the only thing to do is rebuiild it and have a fresh bike. I just joined Cafehusky now so I will do some research on there as well. Yes i plan on doing the rebuild myself. Got any good places to get OEM parts for the lowest cost? I'm in wisconsin and looking at Powersports1.
 

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Low cost and husky don't mix....and halls cycles is a good place to get oem parts.
Throw in the big bore 530 kit from ToxicMotoRacing haha!!!
 

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Shiiit that sound bad:rant:....Now you make it even better, also we can see how those parts availability successful now days.

I would recommend, if yoy have money, but that 530cc kit+pcv then some dyno run and make those A/F ration good+some racing waterpump+slipping cluth, that helps little to
from stress those gears, when change gears down. Ofcourse some head work also, to get little more out of that engine:D

In this Husqvarna section, are those sticky there is those engine tear downs in pics and some info....Also you should fint that parts catalog in web, that is also helpfull when you are building up
 

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Low cost and husky don't mix....and halls cycles is a good place to get oem parts.
Throw in the big bore 530 kit from ToxicMotoRacing haha!!!
^this^ All of it!
 

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I am in the process of re building my spare 510 motor that I bought a couple of years ago
when I tore it down I found 6 gear not up to snuff so I replaced it
with a new one it showed up and the new gear looks to be made better
than the original one
when all said and done I will probably have $1500 in it
BMP and Halls are great to deal with also George at up tite racing
he has special main crank bearings made up better than the stock ones
Good luck need any help hit me up
Bill
 

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That sucks but looks like you caught it early and hopefully the damage will be minimal. Hard to say exactly what happened until you pop the covers off, good luck
 

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This sound very interesting:D
There's also threads on this topic. I believe since the issue of fake OEM bearings were brought up Halls has made effort to filter out the counterfeits. Now the real OEM bearings should be just fine now but the *** bearings from George at uptite are supposedly better. I believe it's around $100 for one bearings vs $100 for both OEM crank bearings.

I did find the specs on the *** bearings and if you have a company local that'll sells you just two and know someone who can shave off the material to fit the retainer over the bearing you could end up spending just a little over what OEM bearings cost for the supposedly superior bearings made in Germany. The only thing is there's many plants worldwide for *** and Germany is just one of them.
 

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^this^ All of it!
Haha the kits JR made are nice. Carrillo Pistons and using your stock jug to get bored and nikasil plated is cheaper than getting the husky 530 kit obviously since that one comes with a brand new jug.

I decided while everything was part to split cases and replace the con rod, get the crank built, and every gasket/o-ring/seal replaced as well as all bearings. I just ordered those through Halls and they had all but one part. They said the husky warehouse has it though so I should be getting it all in a few weeks. Now is the time to order parts. A huge shipment had recently came in so inventory is back up!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks everyone for the info. I will check out Halls and order parts in the next couple weeks when i get the motor torn apart. I will be pulling the motor from the bike tonight and then start the tear down over the next week or two. Any advice on the husky tools, to get or not get? I assume i need the fly wheel puller but can i get away with not using the case spliter? Does anyone have the fly wheel puller that i could borrow thats somewhat in the area of Milwaukee?

I wish i had the money to go right to the 530 kit but I am just going to build it back up with OEM parts for now. I do need to tune it when its all back together and was debating the PCV+Autotune or just get the PCV and take it to a dyno and have them play with it. I think the cost of the PCV+Autotune will match with the PCV+dyno.
 

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I will say in my experiense, PC V+dyno, i was driving like 3-6000km whit PC V+autotune, in street use, some time hard, but usually by the law in low rpms and low throttle use like 5-15% of WOT.
Then i was take the bike to some dyno runs, that dyno specialist was saying and showing those A/F curves at dyno paper, those was "normal", but liitle wrong curves/setup in my bike use.
So next i was istall that 530cc kit and go again to see in dyno how much power was making, also then that dyno dude was make me way better A/F maps/setup, bike works better, fuel ecenomy is better, it feels like that engine would work better, breathe etc. Now after that i was little disappointed because I did not go sooner in dyno to make better A/F maps
 

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:popcorn:
 

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That's definitely a tooth! Too bad in this case there is no tooth fairy and you don't get money...
 

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Cylinder looks good unless there's some scratches on the side we can't see but I'd still replace the rings while I had it apart.
 

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Crown on the piston looks ok and the cylinder is in great shape from that one picture. Definitely do the rings at least while you have access to it like mentioned above.
I'd send you a flywheel puller but the cost in shipping both ways you could almost pay for one new.
 
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