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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, i got this bike about 2 weeks ago. it currently has 3 miles and up until yesterday it idled at about 2500-3000 rpm. i got this resolved and now about to install Dynojet stage 1.

This is my first motorcycle and first time working on carbs. I've never looked at a motorcycle till 2 weeks ago. so i know nothing about them were most stuff are located.

So this is a how-to for people like me. You don't have to be to handy with tools but must know which to use. i always see people using the wrong screw driver. make sure it is the right size for the job or you will stripe the heads.

this job took me about 3hrs total. i did not rush it and took pics and breaks along the way.

lets start.
-turn the fuel knob thingy to the "OFF" position. run the bike till it dies.
-side covers ; front and rear
-seat/strap

-loosen the 3 bolts for the tank.
-remove the fuel lines to the carb
on the left side of the bike you will see a fuel filter trace the bottom hose to the carb. remove that hose from the carb.






from the fuel knob on the left side of the bike trace the hose that points to the left and goes into the left side of the card. remove that hose. Fuel will come out so have a rage or container ready.

-lift the tank slightly and you will see a vent hose. third hose from the front. remove that hose.


-remove the 2 bolts holding the fuel knob thingy and 2 bolts for fuel filter
-on the top of the charcoal canister remove the small hose that goes up to the fuel filter



-now you can remove the tank. you must wiggle the hoses to get them untangled.
-there is a valve at the front of the engine. remove the small hose on the left side. this goes to the top of the carb(on a tee with the fuel hose you removed earlier).


-at this point i removed the charcoal canister. took out the 2 engine nuts and bolts.
-cap off the port on the air filter box.


-remove the throttle plate from the right side of the carb. it just 1 screw. make sure you use the right screw driver. wrong size will stripe. it has lock tight on it.
-pull the pink hose(right side) out of its slot and wiggle the throttle cable away from the carb. pull the pink hose up and you can get the cable mounting bracket out of the way.


-pull up the other 2 hoses. left pink and bottom small black vaccum hose.



-loosen all 3 intake clamps holding the carb in place.
pull back on the intake boot. remove the boot clamp from the inlet of the carb. with this clamp out, you can pull the boot up and back. so it is now pointing up. this way you can remove the carb with ease.


-pull the carb backwards and tilt slightly.



-cover up the intake port of the engine so nothing can fall in.


- with the carb on the bench or vise install the dynojet kit.



-instructions say to start from the top with the slide. again make sure you use the correct size screw driver or you will stripe the bolts.
-remove the top 4 screws. gently pull up on the cover. the slide might come up with the cover. it is very thin and easy to tear.


-once you have the slide apart remove the needle, plastic white cover, and spring.
-replace the needle and spring with dynojet parts.
- i used the 3rd groove and 2 washers. they give you 3 but i only used 2 as in thier pics.


-when putting the needle into the slide becarefull not to drop the washers. what i did was hold the slide and cover the bottom hole with my finger. this way the needle does not go all the way down. then put the white cap and spring on. drop the entire thing into the carb. look into the carb to make sure the needle goes into the hole on the inlet of the carb.
-reinstall the cover.


-flip the carb and remove the 4 bolts holding the cover on. you must wiggle a bit to clear the idle screw.




-replace main jet. they say use dynojet#116. stage 1
-i removed the nut looking thing with an 8mm wrench. then took a big flat head screw driver and removed the jet. i didn't know they came apart and that is why i removed the entirer thing.




-with the jet removed, i put back the long piece and gently tighten it. make sure you don't damage the needle sticking up in that hole. dont use to much force or something will break.


- now install the #116 dynojet jet and reinstall cover.
-drill out the adjustment screw with the drill bit provided. i didnt have to use the small screw to remove the cover. it came out with the drill.


-as instructions, bottomed out and turn counter clockwise 3 turns.

reinstall everything.

dont forget to turn your fuel knob to the "ON" position.

i think i got everything. But if im missing anything please let me know and i will update it. hope these pics help others that are new to motorcycles and carbs.
 

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Thanks for the pictures. I've got enough experience on bikes that I'm pretty sure I could figure it out but I appreciate you taking the time to put these up. I just ordered an FMF Q4 so I'm probably gonna have to do the jet kit too. Most importantly, how does it run after doing this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Glad I could help:D


Once I decide on exhaust I'll do another pictorial and. Adjust the carbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
P-tech, I really don't know! Hahha I'm still trying to learn how to ride. And the bike has about 3 miles. It now has 10 miles but I really cant tell.

I set the idle with the engine hot about 1400ish. After riding for a bit it goes up and stays about 2000. I really don't know why. I'm going to go on another ride before it gets dark. And try to adjust the idle again.
 

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Well you motivated me to buy the kit. Just bought it off ebay for 59 shipped. I didn't really even check to see if that was a good price haha. Hopefully the pipe and the jet kit will get here at the same time. I'll try and post some pictures when mine comes in :D
 

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P-tech, I really don't know! Hahha I'm still trying to learn how to ride. And the bike has about 3 miles. It now has 10 miles but I really cant tell.

I set the idle with the engine hot about 1400ish. After riding for a bit it goes up and stays about 2000. I really don't know why. I'm going to go on another ride before it gets dark. And try to adjust the idle again.
Try turning your idle mixture screw in 1/4 turn. If it speeds up as the engine warms up, it may be a little rich on the idle.

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Seems like it was running rich. So I removed the carb and adjust the mixture screw. It is now 2 1/8 turn from bottoming out.

Also I had that evap Thing that is connected to the fuel tank. I had the small port that runs to the charcoal canister capped off. This seems to cause the bike not to be able to start. It's seems to need air to move the fuel.
Sorry i really don't know what it is called. So I reinstalled the small hose I removed and the bike started right up.
I wasn't able to try the bike out cause it was late. Il report back with the 2 1/8 turn out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i adjusted it to about 2.75 turns out. it runs much better now. i finally got it to idle steady at about 1500-1700ish.
 

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Please help

I removed the fuel tank and noticed that the owner before me had removed the charcoal canister completely. I was wondering is the the marked and unmarked holes... red, blue and the third one next to it thats unmarked, have to be pluged up? would fuel leak out if i dont. It doesnt look like the owner before me had pluged them at all. Just to be clear I am talking about the 3 hole on the underside of the gas tank thats not for the reserve and normal gas. Please help
 

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This really helped me man! Thank you so much, i was super worried about drilling out the plug, but it wasnt that bad to be honset. The hardest parts was getting the stripped screws off and trying to cram the carb back in! Only problem I have now is that the black line or hose that comes out of the bottom of the carb is leaking fuel... If someone knows whats going on i would greatly appreciate it!
 

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This really helped me man! Thank you so much, i was super worried about drilling out the plug, but it wasnt that bad to be honset. The hardest parts was getting the stripped screws off and trying to cram the carb back in! Only problem I have now is that the black line or hose that comes out of the bottom of the carb is leaking fuel... If someone knows whats going on i would greatly appreciate it!
That's the float drain. Close off your petcock and loosen the small screw just above the black line until fuel is pouring out the line let, the float drain completely to flush out and dirt that may have got in the seal area for the screw and the then snug it back up.

Bonus tip, if your little KLX has a hard time starting after sitting for a few weeks, drain the bowl with ^^^^ that procedure, it'll fire right up with fresh gas in the bowl.
 

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you know the entire carb doesnt have to come out to do jetting
I just take off the throttle lines, loosen clamps and spin the carb sideways to get out the jets

I also replaced the screws with allens
m4x12mm or 17mm cant remember I got a container of both
at least they are harder to strip then the phillips

for the needle I just slid over the gas tank let it hang on all the lines and changed it, not sure if I could of done that with the carb twisted

only seat, and side panels came off


also noticed my bowl drain line had a bb inside it, to keep it from draining
but they left a spot of paint where the bb was
so I just cut above it
not sure why its in there, how are you supposed to drain the bowl?
strange if you ask me
 
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