SuperMoto Junkie banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My bone-stock clutch had a very slight drag before yesterday's races. I could not get the drag out by using the thumb-wheel adjuster, but it was so minor, I prayed a little and went on about my business. After the first race, I didn't see any difference. After the second race, however, it was dragging to the point of it being dead as it wouldn't allow gear engagement from neutral. I played with adjustment again and beld the line, but it didn't help. I DNS my last race.

The clutch is *probably* dead, but I don't know yet without taking a look later today.

1) What clutch is recommended for hard road racing if the stocker is weak? (Note: I don't care for slipper clutches.)

2) Is there a better lever than the stocker with regards to adjustments? (The stocker's plastic wheel is puny.)

Help is appreciated from KTM guys who have had similar experiences. Please note that I don't check this forum every day, so if you post something, please PM me so I can get an email reminder to check the page.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
319 Posts
Did KTM switched to a cable clutch, I'm racing an '04. If it is a cable clutch...id make my adjustment down by the engine case and back off the thumb wheel and adjust the slack out by the motor. Then you can fine tune the lever play with the thumb wheel. if its hydraulic I'd try bleeding again and tap the line to make sure you shake any bubbles loose. The plates might be glazed and sticking together...if the plates are in good shape you can acetone them and de-glaze w/some fine sand paper. The basket might be notched, the faces of the basket that mate w/the outer teeth of the fiber plates could be gouged or notched which cause hang-up. The basket is pretty soft and a file should smooth them out. I'm running the KTM hard parts slipper from adige, but if you're not into slippers, hinson might make a tougher basket for ktm's but I'm not sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Nope, it's a hydraulic clutch. The bike is basically new, having less than an hour on it before I got it. It came with a very slight drag, though. I couldn't get it to go away and here we are. When I pull it apart, we'll know more. I have a DP clutch on its way, so we'll try that.


As far as the levers, it doesn't appear as through the Hard Parts flex levers are available for the SMR's hydraulic brake and clutch. Sunline says they make some, but I've not seen them in person, just on the web.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,775 Posts
Sounds real similar to a problem I had last year (I had to borrow a Yamaha to race my final and start from the back row since the KTM wouldn't work). The culprit was warped metal plates. I abused them trying to get a god start in the heat and they were toast. I haven't really found an upgrade kit for the clutch (those plates look like tin foil :rolleyes:) so I replaced with another stock set of plates. It has run fine since. I take care not to overheat it by slipping too much at the start of a race. Of course my starts are now terrible as a result.
I plan on taking it to the drag strip on a test and tune ni9ght and seeing how much abuse it can take before it dies so I can improve on my stats and still be able to complete races.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
6,598 Posts
the clutch on a smr consists out of the actual clutch plates and a set of thick and thin metal plates. the thin plates are usually the ones that warp causing the clutch not to fully disengage when you pull the lever. I've had the same problem on my previous exc twice because I also tend to slip the clutch a little too long when taking off in first gear. I've seen a lot of guys fixing this problem by replacing the thin plates with the thicker ones, in order to do this you need to take away some material from the clutch basket, that way you create a little more room and then you can use the thicker plates.

if you're looking for replacement levers for the clutch have a look at the ASV range.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top