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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I got a 05 crf250r that I'm working on making street legal.
I've been reading on the forum "2007 CRF250R- Dirt to SM, Eventually Street Legal Budget Build" and it has a bunch of useful info, but I still have some questions.
Has anyone heard of them running dry on oil and locking up?
How frequently do I gotta change the fluids?
Any suggestions for radiator fans?
And if anyone has done it to a 05.
Currently I have everything to make the lighting work.
Turn singles, brake light, brake light switches, head light, and a battery.
Battery isn't run off the stator just will have to re charge it for now. I will upload some pics soon, but figured I'd make a post to get start.

Thanks, Zach
 

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Hey Zach. Essentially what you are building here is what they sell in my country, a CRF250X. The photo is NOT my bike, but it is a CRF250X.
CRF.jpg



These were a CRF250R with electric start, taillights, indicators and headlights tacked onto them, a key, a side stand and a compliance plate. I'm keen to see this come along for you. Depending on how keen you are, you could eventually just get a whole CRF250X setup imported and essentially build yourself a CRF-X out of your CRF-R frame. I THINK the motors fit, but don't quote me on that one. It's a pain in the arse to convert, you need pretty much everything (switch blocks, fuses, the whole ass engine itself, loom, battery tray, computer, etc.) but it can be done. I know the subframes are interchangeable, as I built a CRF-X with a CRF-R subframe so we could run the twin exhausts. For now, the total loss battery system will work, especially if you've only got a short ride, although I'd recommend running it off the stator eventually.

About the motors locking up, these motors are NOT reliable compared to something like a DRZ400. They can't be lugged around for hours like a Japanese street bike. They're a motocross bike and are quite highly strung, and extremely maintenance intensive. The motors are designed to have valves checked every 25-50 odd hours. I've seen them go sloppy in less than 40 hrs depending on riding habits. The original titanium valves in them were shit anyway and should be replaced to stainless steel. Oil and filter NEEDS to be done around 300km if you want to not lunch the motor, or, if your intent is to race it, after every race. They hold almost no oil if you compare it with, say, a DRZ400 or something like that. I personally changed my oil in my CRF250X every other ride. Then I sold it because I couldn't handle doing maintenance so damned often, it was ridiculous. They lock up when oil is left in them for a while, as they barely have any oil in them when they're full, let alone when they've been ridden.

The radiator fan isn't a bad idea either, especially if you're going to sit in traffic for a while. However, I don't have a suggestion for what you could use... Trailtech might have one? I haven't looked into the 250s but I know they have one for the new 450.

I hope this has all helped. If you have any more questions, don't hesitate to ask :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey wing nut,

Thanks for the input.
I plan on riding to work and back maybe once or twice a week witch it's a 10min ride doing 50-60mph....ofc there is some back roads, but nothing sitting in traffic for a while or no reason to be high rpms for a while.
I plan also to ocasionaly ride on like 30min trips.... anything more I'll take my cb300f. I also wanna take it to the coast when I go camping and riding around on the beach or along the beach. Agian nothing more then 40-50mph. Currently writing this I'm working on the wiring.
I have heard of the x I don't think there is any in the states. I believe the closest would be a crf250l. In that case if I grenade my motor I'll just pick up a wrecked cb300 or cbr300 or cbr250 and swap it....it'll be a pain but it'll be fuel injected reliable and plenty powerful.
Just making it street legal and going to see where it takes me. Got the bike under $1k American so it'll be fun to see where this goes. I'll post some pics shortly after I tidy up the wiring and mount the head light.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
154431


Here's a pic of the light on. High and low beam works. Possible will get a led one since I'm running just battery but for now this works.
 

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Hey wing nut,

Thanks for the input.
I plan on riding to work and back maybe once or twice a week witch it's a 10min ride doing 50-60mph....ofc there is some back roads, but nothing sitting in traffic for a while or no reason to be high rpms for a while.
I plan also to ocasionaly ride on like 30min trips.... anything more I'll take my cb300f. I also wanna take it to the coast when I go camping and riding around on the beach or along the beach. Agian nothing more then 40-50mph. Currently writing this I'm working on the wiring.
I have heard of the x I don't think there is any in the states. I believe the closest would be a crf250l. In that case if I grenade my motor I'll just pick up a wrecked cb300 or cbr300 or cbr250 and swap it....it'll be a pain but it'll be fuel injected reliable and plenty powerful.
Just making it street legal and going to see where it takes me. Got the bike under $1k American so it'll be fun to see where this goes. I'll post some pics shortly after I tidy up the wiring and mount the head light.
Ehhh I don't think that swapping a 300 or 250 motor into one of those is such a good idea... they physically don't fit into the frame. If you've got big bucks to spend, buy yourself a CR500 motor and build yourself the sickest honda supermoto known to man. They're a common swap into the CRF250R frame, so you're in luck. Mounting kits already exist and are readily available, which is good. Not the most reliable thing on planet earth, but more so than the CRF. also, 2 strokes are shit loads easier to maintain than any 4 stroke. No engine oil, or valves to do. 4 bolts to take the head off. You could even get a CR250 as a whole bike or something, and swap over everything that was on the CRF if you grenade it. The CR250 is also shit loads easier to work on.

You're gonna need to drop some serious teeth in the back too, the CRF won't like 60 Mile an hour at all. They aren't geared for that speed, so to cruise happily, you're gonna need an SM sprocket. High RPM's will kill that poor motor.

The CRF250L is the closest thing to the X in the states and they sell those here too, and I personally don't like them. And they're still absolute pigs. I have an SM610, and that is unreliable, but the CRF is something else. If you're constantly going to be moving, you might be able to get away without a radiator fan, especially if you're only doing a short commute. I would say get a temp sensor and see where the water temp sits. If it starts soaring, its time for a fan.

The lack of a kickstand will be annoying for you, TrailTech makes a whole kit for them, which I installed for many of the customers that go to the bike shop I work at, and they're an awesome kit. They replace the whole left-hand footpeg bracket. I highly recommend, as they're so much better than the OEM CRF-X stand.

What are you doing for anti-theft if you're riding the thing to work? You're going to need to install a key at the lowest level, preferably not inline either, as they're too easy to splice around. Also, get a good lock... It's not about making your bike impossible to steal, it's about making it harder to steal than the bike next to yours.

LED's are definitely the way to go, especially if you're only running a total loss battery system.... a halogen bulb will suck your battery dry and it will do it quickly. Even get an LED bulb straight out the gate... save you from some bad situations in the long run.

Good luck mate, if you have any more questions, let me know. Best of luck,
~Wingnut
 

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Discussion Starter #6
154432

Got the rear tail installed for mock up. I'm thinking of putting a bag over these screws for the paperwork and stuff.
Also I have two presure switchs for the brake light.
As for thrift at work, work at a small cnc shop not worried at all about someone taking it. I leave my 300f key in by accident all the time....funny enough it's only at work I do that.

Never thought of doing a cr250 or 500 swap. Definitely will look into getting one to have as a trail bike and back up for my crf lol.

I plan on getting a trailtech stand I like how they are.

Gearing yes, I read in the forum I mentioned above people switch to 14/40 and can do 60 at low rpms.

I plan on getting a tech that's got speedo, temp, milage.

Thanks again wing nut for the help. Look forward to posting more soon.
154433
 

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If you're after a thin style gauge, nick yourself a TrailTech Endurance II. KTM style thing gauge, good stuff. I'm quite fond of TrailTech if you can't tell 😂

Also, CR250 is not a good trail bike, they are far too peaky for trails, they really love the MX. They work fantastically as supermotos though, for some reason. Powerband out od corners makes you wanna do naughty things lol. If you're after a trail bike, go for a euro 2 stroke, A KTM EXC or a Gas Gas EC or something. I have an 09 EC300 Gas Gas and its the best thing I've ever ridden off-road. 300 2 stroke would be fun on the road too... I won't be putting mine on the street though, as I have a 200 2 stroke which is good enough fun for the track. I might try it someday though... who knows. If I do, I'll do a full review on the page. Cheers mate. have a good one, keen to see how this goes.
 

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Good thing they are, go for it. I have a cheap SAMDO Gauge sitting at home I'm going to put onto my custom turbo street tracker I'm building out of a 97 Yamaha TTR600 Belgarda. I'll see how it goes.
 

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Good thing they are, go for it. I have a cheap SAMDO Gauge sitting at home I'm going to put onto my custom turbo street tracker I'm building out of a 97 Yamaha TTR600 Belgarda. I'll see how it goes.
I bet that thing rips. I thought of getting like a klr650 or a drz400sm instead of making my bike legal, but I already have this bike and thought eh why not I don't see it much online.
 

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Doesn't rip yet, I haven't even kicked the thing over. I've got a picture of it in the midst of construction, however.
Screen Shot 2019-11-08 at 10.50.15 am.png


Please ignore the mess in my shed, it was absolutely filthy. I promise it's clean now :(
 

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Doesn't rip yet, I haven't even kicked the thing over. I've got a picture of it in the midst of construction, however. View attachment 154434

Please ignore the mess in my shed, it was absolutely filthy. I promise it's clean now :(
I like those tires. That's what I wanna get. The knoby onroad style.

Glad I'm not the only one who works in a shed hahah.....in my pics there's a mess all good.

She looks like a little ripper tho. Glad to see people bringing back older bikes
 

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I like those tires. That's what I wanna get. The knoby onroad style.

Glad I'm not the only one who works in a shed hahah.....in my pics there's a mess all good.

She looks like a little ripper tho. Glad to see people bringing back older bikes
I don't know what brand they are, I'll take a look for you. I think they're Shinko 700 series? They're a shit tyre, they're getting replaced ASAP, they've been on the bike for YEARS. I got it in 2016 after it sitting for years from the previous owner. I fully rebuilt the motor at work, and I've got a Fuel Injection kit on order. I'll make a whole new thread specifically about it though, I don't wanna Hijack your thread lol.
 

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the CRF250X is available in the US, it just isn't factory street legal here. no turn signals, mirrors, etc

does the X not get a wide ratio tranny too, like most of the enduro bikes vs mx bikes?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey guys been a few days here's an update,
Currently here in the state I'm in it's snowy and cold so bikes been slow working.
I wired the rear light completely. I made some y connectors for the turn signals and wired the brake light. All the lights are ran, wired, horn is wired, high low beam wired. Still need to wire the fans. Goin to wait until I get some higher cfm ones. I mounted the key and wired it currently for just on. Have to wire the off still.
Brake light is all wired.
I also got a trail Tek vapor I have to wire up. I mounted it but have to mount the sensors and wire it all. I also went through the old parts from the previous owner and inside was some valves. I'll have to check the paperwork to see what it was replaced with, but they were replaced. Super stoked in the coming few months as winter comes to a end to touch this bike up and get her on the road. Here's some pics so far.
Please excuse the mess I still have to clean up the wires. I also am going to powder coat the mounts I made upfront. This ain't the final mount for the front head light it's just sitting there for mock up. Rear turn singles do flash out. In the pic they are just at the full on fase.
Any questions feel free to ask.
- Zach.
IMG_20200208_204046.jpg
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IMG_20200208_203934.jpg
IMG_20200208_203948.jpg
 

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Maaate it's looking slick, well done. Keen to see this one come along for you. Starting to look like a real motorcycle lol. Should be awesome for you. Thanks for keeping us updated 💪
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hey guys. Havnt been doing much to the bike...but I had an idea. While looking at this picture.
Would, with mods, a set of wheels and tires from my cb300f fit on the crf?
Front are 110/70-17
Rear are 140/70-17.
I'm curious if anyone knows off top of there heads or I'm about to be taking my wheels off and finding out lol.
IMG_20191208_140157_924.jpg
 

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well, they won't. I think the axle diameter on the front of the CRF is 20MM, and the rear is a 25mm. Not sure if the CB has the same. Your Brake rotor is on the wrong side for that caliper on the CRF, so you'd need to turn the wheel backwards, which doesn't work well, or look good. The caliper definitely won't fit the rotor either, so you'd need a bracket for the caliper, to push it out a little further. The actual hub of the wheel may have a different width, so you'd for certain need some custom spacers. Supermoto on the cheap mate. That's what your build has been, start to finish. The best bet is to leave your rear rim alone and wrap it in an 18, and buy a rear rim (no hubs or spokes) and re-lace it with a new set of spokes onto your original front hub and run dual 18 road tires. Michelin does a bunch of road tires in 18s. Should be like, 200-250 bucks all up for the rear rim, and a re-lace from a shop, plus some for tires. less if you can find a rear rim somewhere else. Try wreckers for the rim, and make sure it's not dented to shit. Not a nice feeling on the road. get yourself some decent spokes off eBay, and save a buck. drop the hub and the spokes off at the shop, and get them to do it for you. You can un-lace the original rim easily by yourself, it's just relacing that's a pain. Give it a shot if you're brave enough, but go for the shop if you wanna err on the side of caution.
 
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