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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
on my 06 sm610 with 27k. i've never done a leak-down test before but i know the bike is losing power somewhere. it's weeping oil and coolant from around the head gasket anyways.

the cam chain is ok but im going to leak-down test to see where power is going. figure with this much mileage i'll probably have to replace the head-gasket and the four studs that secure the jug to the block. maybe even the rings. i;ve replaced the camchain before so i have a flywheel puller and know the generic gaskets i'll need to replace. but what else should i consider ordering before the disassamble the engine? also, just I adjust the valves before doing a leak-down test?

im bored after highsiding and spend my days like a cat looking for a comfortable place to sit since my stomach looks like this.
 

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Oh dude, that is soooooo ugly!

Good luck with the rebuild and hope you get to feeling better. Was your highside on the track or street?
 

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I would replace the rings almost regardless. You're going that far in anyways.. Also inspect the cam chain tensioner for spring function, Cam chain obviously like you said, ummm Check clutch plates for wear. Leak down is a good idea in case your valvetrain needs some help :thumbup:

Sorry to hear about the wreck, looks painful!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
tee-highside on the street on new tires. i was fine on the outside but it took me two hours to realize i was bleeding internally. didn't die though.

jr-is it worth replacing the rings without boring the cylinder? if any boring is needed, can i use oversized rings on the stock piston?
 

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Yowzers. Get better, man.
 

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tee-highside on the street on new tires. i was fine on the outside but it took me two hours to realize i was bleeding internally. didn't die though.

jr-is it worth replacing the rings without boring the cylinder? if any boring is needed, can i use oversized rings on the stock piston?
No kiddin, Glad you caught the internal injuries in time.

Im not sure what is offered for oversized rings, but they will be for the standard piston. Depending on the condition of your cylinder, you may only need to hone it and use standard rings on the piston.
Oh and one more thing I just thought of. Disassemble your clutch slave cylinder. First and most obvious thing is make sure the inner lip of the housing (that the circlip sits behind) is there. If you see ragged edges and no clip holding the clutch piston in, you'll need a new housing. If there is wear on the wall of the housing, you might need to replace the housing depending on severity or replace the O-ring. If you need to replace the O-ring, consider replacing stock clutch piston and O-ring with a 7602 clutch piston w/X-ring. Honestly that piston replacement is something worth the piece of mind doing anyways. For some reason, husky spec'd a clutch piston with a shorter skirt from magura. KTM uses the same clutch and stuck with the longer skirted piston..
 

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Sorry to hear you caught one, I really hope you heal fast.

Scar stories are the best beer stories ever mate :thumbup: Wait till you show that sucker off.
 

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cbsean

Sorry to hear about your crash. I have crashed many a motorcycle and broken a bone or two, and highsided while I was at it.

How did you figure out you had internal bleeding? Would be good for all of us to know the warning signs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
No kiddin, Glad you caught the internal injuries in time.

Im not sure what is offered for oversized rings, but they will be for the standard piston. Depending on the condition of your cylinder, you may only need to hone it and use standard rings on the piston.

Oh and one more thing I just thought of. Disassemble your clutch slave cylinder. First and most obvious thing is make sure the inner lip of the housing (that the circlip sits behind) is there. If you see ragged edges and no clip holding the clutch piston in, you'll need a new housing..
Jr-great insight as i'd like to inspect anything that could need replacement with the bike apart. When you say, "7602 clutch piston w/X-ring," whose art number is this?

yeah moto i'm too poor for tattoos so all i have to floss are scars. circus, the first thing i looked for was blood in my urine, which would suggest a problem with my kidneys. i to had incredible knots in my stomach but figured it was just my body complaining about being sore. after two hours the pain only got worse and my abdomen began .swell up pretty big. (im 6 foot tall and 160 pounds so the gut was noticeable.) once my face grew pale i knew there was something definetly wrong so i decided to go to the ER, at which point I felt like vomiting and going to bed. Surgery started pretty quick once the hospital could assemble a trauma surgery team.

to answer your question, none of the symptoms by themselves would have made me go to the hospital but taken together the symptoms suggested something was amiss.
 

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Jr-great insight as i'd like to inspect anything that could need replacement with the bike apart. When you say, "7602 clutch piston w/X-ring," whose art number is this?
7602 is the company. www.7602racing.com
Clutch piston:
http://www.7602racing.com/prod_clutch_piston.php


Oooooh WAIT A MINUTE!!!! :LOL: You have a cable acutated clutch (not a hydrauilc clutch) on the 610 dont ya? If I just remembered correctly, then inspect/lubricate or replace the clutch and throttle cables.. Only $50 or so for all three (single clutch and two throttle) cables from motion pro. Not sure on OEM

Inspect and replace if needed, the plastic throttle tube. put a little graphite on the bar under the throttle tube regardless of replacing tube or not.

new grips if old ones are worn out.

bleed brakes with new brake fluid. Make sure rear brake foot lever is adjusted right. Should be adjusted so that when your foot is on the peg and toe hanging (like your cruising with your foot off the brake) the lever should be about level with the side of your foot, but only enough so you have to lift your foot just a little bit to slide your foot onto it.

Adjust clutch and brake levers if needed. Should be so that you only squeeze them with first 1-2 fingers and squeeze them up to but not squishing your other knuckles. This way 2-3 fingers are always holding onto the bar for better control but you can still finger your levers. :D

Inspect fork oil level according to your weight/factory spec. Fork oil level controls bottoming.. Im at 95mm (distance from top of fork tube to level of oil) and I weigh 160. My buddy weighs 200ish and is at 100mm. I think we're both using 7.5weight fork oil. If you have never done it: crack the fork caps loose while forks are in bike, then pull forks off of bike. hold them upright while you pull the cap all the way off. Then pull out the spring letting as much oild drip back into the fork and not spill any. Using measuring calipers, measure from the top edge of the fork tube down to the level of the fork oil while the fork is held vertically.

Reassemble forks and check the settings of rebound and compression. Count the clicks till you go all the way in. The first click on all of them is a half click. start counting from the first full click if that makes sense. Then back the clickers out to where you were. If your settings seem off, check the manual for stock settings. I believe the 50mm marzocchi is 12 clicks out for compression and 12 out for rebound from the factory. Once you ride the bike, you can adjust to your liking.






Sorry I kinda got ahead of myself and couldnt stop! :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
kudos to you sir, that is a grand list indeed and good catch on the clutch being cable actuated cause yep it is. I guess that is going to be the fun part, figuring out what needs to refreshed while I'm going along. What fun. I posted up the motorcycle accident on my blog if you're interested in getting some advice on how not to ride and barely survive a since vehicle motorcycle accident.
 

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kudos to you sir, that is a grand list indeed and good catch on the clutch being cable actuated cause yep it is. I guess that is going to be the fun part, figuring out what needs to refreshed while I'm going along. What fun. I posted up the motorcycle accident on my blog if you're interested in getting some advice on how not to ride and barely survive a since vehicle motorcycle accident.
That's a real good read. And amazing how many guys fall victim to the new tyre syndrome. I've been riding since 17 and I'm 44 and I nearly lost the rear a few weeks back at 5mph turning into my mates close. New tyres are lethally slippery. They should be factory scrubbed to lose that shitty surface. Cold tyres I accept. Slippery ones..

I'd post your blog into the lobby here with something like 'new tyre warning' or similar. With the summer coming and a lot of guys being in the same scenario you might save someone's butt :thumbup:
 

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Sorry to hear about the high side, that's pretty nasty. Get well soon. As for scrubbin in new rubber, once my tire is half ass warm, I'll start a rhythmatic weaving motion increasing lean angles a bit as I go. I do that for several repetitions before digging into corner. Even then I'm not going max lean. Gradual, gradual.......

Good luck getting the Husky sorted out:thumbup:
 

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May I suggest checking the impeller for your water pump. Both times I did my cam chain, the hole in the impeller was worn so much, it had about 90* of play as it sat tightened on the shaft.

This is on a 06 sm610. 34k miles.

Brian
 

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May I suggest checking the impeller for your water pump. Both times I did my cam chain, the hole in the impeller was worn so much, it had about 90* of play as it sat tightened on the shaft.

This is on a 06 sm610. 34k miles.

Brian
I am guessing that means you replace (not repair) the impeller?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
good call brian and im glad to hear im not the only high-mileage husky on the scene. im turning mine into a track bike so the bike will be getting less mileage but greater abuse.
 

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May I suggest checking the impeller for your water pump. Both times I did my cam chain, the hole in the impeller was worn so much, it had about 90* of play as it sat tightened on the shaft.

This is on a 06 sm610. 34k miles.

Brian
Had this happen recently after a few races on my 250. I even had a dab of RTV on the outside of the nut/impeller. So when I put on a Husky HD impeller, I put RTV on the shaft, inside the impeller, under the nut, over the nut, and around it. That bitch is not coming off! :D

Oh and last year my impeller nut came all the way off sometime during the season.. it broke a fin and they got lodged in a water jacket. But some how the impeller still stayed with the shaft and didnt spin/round out the impeller hole.. :headscrat
 
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