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Discussion Starter #1
You don't have to get your hands dirty. But I could use information.
My '06 SM610 died just over a year ago at the track. Looks like I bent a shift fork and can't really get it into 3rd gear. I understand bent shift forks can happen if you beat on the shifter; I have. I rode the bike back and forth to work for a couple years then in 2010 started racing it, it has over 20K miles and has never been apart.

Anyway, I have some time available this month so I've started taking it apart. I expect to have the motor out of the bike and on the bench tomorrow but I'm not sure what the next step is. I'm hoping to use this thread to ask what to do at each step and document the process.

OK, so my first question is where can I get a flywheel puller and what is the right one to get? Is there any other specialty tools I'll need? Is a special puller needed for the clutch?

Also, I've done a bunch of searches for threads on the subject with no luck. If you know of any good references I'd love to get pointed in the right direction.

Thanks in advance.
 

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You will need a service manual (huskyoutlet.com = FREE!!!!), flywheel puller (Call Hall's Cycles to find out which one fits your Husq, there are a few different ones), Clutch holder tool (Rocky Mountain Atv....Tusk brand), and a crankcase splitter (again, Rocky Mountain Atv.....Tusk Brand). Once you get it apart, order the replacements ASAP, The Husq parts take a while if they have to be ordered. If the bike has never been apart, I would put a new top end in there too......don't forget, you will need a complete gasket set for the rebuild :thumbup:
 

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i've got a complete manual and parts microfiche, which makes it easier to order parts. if you mail me an empty thumb drive with a self addressed stamped envelop i can put all the information in it and mail it back. you can borrow my flywheel puller if you mail it back when you're done as it's not been getting much use over here.

if you are mechanically inclined it's not exceedingly difficult to disassemble the engine. +1 on ordering parts early as it's the lag time to get things that's tough but between motoxotica and halls cycles you should be alright. pm me if you're interested.
 

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I would call Hall's and see if they have the parts that you think you need to replace in stock. That way you won't be shocked to find out that you will have to wait 6-7 weeks for the part to come over on a boat if it's not stocked :headshake

As CB sean said, check Motoxotica too......also check Fast By Feracci, Toytech Cycles, BIll, s in Oregon, and Uptite Racing for parts.
 

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+1 on Husqvarnaoutlet.com for free repair manual and parts fiche. As for flywheel pullers, go to oemcycle.com I got one for the 250/450/510 for $20 shipped!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks people. As usual, everyone here is great. This is the kind of information I've been looking for.
I'll be posting up the pictures I have so far showing the removal of the engine. Hopefully this will help someone else in the future (or me next time).
 

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SUGGESTION>>>>>>>

Be very meticulous on disassebmbly. If you think you might not be completely sure of how something went together, TAKE A PICTURE OF IT!!!!!!! I cannot stress this enough! Especially if you take it apart, and then have to wait a month for parts.......It won't be as fresh in your mind after the wait. Also, some parts of the service manual might not show you enoough detail....TAKE A PICTURE OF IT BEFORE YOU TAKE IT APART!......The trans gears all go in a certain way and it's a royal pain in the ass to have to measure aech cog to be sure it's right......When you split the cases, make EVERY ATTEMPT to keep the trans gears intact!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Pull them out in one assembly and safety wire them so they will stay intact.

Upon reassembly, don't force anything! If it needs too much pressure, it's probably WRONG! Take your time and be sure to do it right:thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
craigs449,
Your words are full of wisdom.
I've wrenched enough car motors to have learned this the hard way (a few times over). I now work with a wrench in one hand and a camera in the other. By the way, that's why I will have a bunch of pictures to post here.
 

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putting bolts back in their holes whenever possible keeps them from getting lost. if you can't, try using a medical marijuana container and write on the container what the part is and where it goes. if those aren't options, I make replicas parts out of cardboard and ink and put holes where the bolts go. lastly, write where wires come from and where they go on post it notes and ziptie the notes to all of the wires you disconnect so it's easy to know where the wire's mate is.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, I have some pictures of pulling the engine, showing the process. But, SuperMotoJunkie is still having problems. I can't seem to upload any pictures to the site. I tried .jpg and .png files of 640x480. This has been a problem for some time. Anyone know why it's not being fixed? It seems to only affect some people.

STUPID
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So, I was thinking. Random dumb thought I'm sure, but I figure I'd throw it out there and see what others think.

I have the engine out of the bike now and am thinking about the next step.
I believe that I just need to open the case and replace one of the shift forks. (I know, once it's open I'll find a bunch of stuff to replace.)
So, to crack the case I need to pull apart the top end (it'll get reworked when it goes back together) then pull the side covers and everything inside them then I'll be ready to pull it apart.

I'm thinking that I can get away with NOT pulling the left side cover or removing the flywheel and such. It seems that if I just pull the right side cover and the clutch and crap in there, I'll be able to split the case and replace the needed parts and put it back together. It seems I'd only need to pull the left cover and flywheel if I needed to remove the crank. Am I missing something here?

Why is this a bad idea? :headscrat
Just asking. My current plan is to pull it all apart, at least for now it is.
 

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as far as I know, you cannot just pull the right case. you have to split the case fron the left side......you actually use the end of the flywheel side of the crank as a leverage point to pull the left side case from the right side. it has to do with the case bolt holes....there is no bolt holes on the right side case to use the puller with....

-craig
 

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Discussion Starter #15
as far as I know, you cannot just pull the right case. you have to split the case fron the left side......you actually use the end of the flywheel side of the crank as a leverage point to pull the left side case from the right side. it has to do with the case bolt holes....there is no bolt holes on the right side case to use the puller with....

-craig
Hmmm, yes, I could see that. Would have to find another way to force the case halves apart. Is there a way to separate the case halves other than using a Crankcase Separator tool?
 

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Hmmm, yes, I could see that. Would have to find another way to force the case halves apart. Is there a way to separate the case halves other than using a Crankcase Separator tool?
i wouldnt risk it.....hate to destroy a case half trying to save a little bit of time......might as well pull them apart the right way.....maybe think about swapping all new bearing since she will be apart anyways..just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Probably a good idea to check your timing chain as you're digging into the lump.
Timing chain is on the list. I know it's bad. I checked it and it was ten clicks; then I rode a couple more races on it.

What I'm struggling with now is how much to put into it. My plan when I started was to just open it up and fix the shifting problem. Put in new rings and a timing chain and call it good.
I only plan on riding it easy on the street and using it to teach others to ride. Kind of a low cost, make it work, kinda thing.
Now I'm thinking "Well, while it's apart I might as well replace everything and make it new again." The problem with thinking this way is that there is a bunch of other problems with the bike and to fix everything would cost me more than just buying a good used bike. Yes, I'm sorry, I rode the hell out of this thing.

So I need to figure out how much effort and $ I want to put into this project. If fixing everything is not cost effective, where is the cutoff point that makes it worth doing?
 

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i'd grab a piece of paper and do a cost/benefit analysis. how much would is the bike worth if it was fixed? how much money/time would it cost for it to get to that point? how much would the bike be worth parting out? do you have the space to repair/disassemble the bike? are you mechanically inclined or do you want to be more inclined?

compare what the ride-able bike is worth to what it would cost you in time/labor/tools/space. even though it's a rough estimate the numbers don't lie. let's say the bike is worth $3500 if it was riding. pick a reasonable number, say $500, and then prioritize how the money should be spent. you could fix the shifter and the timing chain and anything else that works with your budget.

Lastly remember you can't polish a turd so if the bike is worth more in parts then as a whole, cut your losses and start selling.
 

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