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Discussion Starter #1
Hi.

I just bought a Husaberg FE501 03 model with a smkit. And since I live in Norway with cold winter now, I will spend som money on it to make it look better (hopefully).

My plans is:
Change the sun-bleached yellow plastic to black
Black seat
New decalkit
Blue or black rims (I cant decide, but im black is in my head right now)
Repair the decompression (Its broken so its very heavy to start)
Valve adjustment CHECK
New sparkplug
New oil and filter
New airfilter CHECK

And after that, practise wheelie and have FUN!!




 

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Discussion Starter #3
This is my first supermoto. A KTM exc 125 2003. For you guys who knows KTM can see that its done a bit with this bike to ;)
Damn I miss this bike!



 

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valve adjustment would be as follows:

set engine to tdc.

remove the rocker inspection covers (like you did in the pic)

loosen locknuts

screw in adjusters till 'just' finger tight

move the nut into position so a corner of it aligns with the straight slot of the adjuster, hold nut perfectly still, back adjuster out till straight edge hits the next corner

tighten lock nut and do not let the center adjuster move

roll the engine twice over and recheck it before you put your caps back on.

its call the 1/6 turn valve adjustment method and is standard on husabergs and more trustworthy than using a feeler guage. do it like this.

also lateral (side to side) movment of the rocker arms is adjustable. if should be a just noticable amount i forget the actual spec, like .002-.003 or something

to adjust this you have to loosen the rocker cover hold down screws above the black cam caps on the flywheel side of engine and also one in the middle by them i think, then take a socket and tap the black cam caps into the engine as needed, or back out with a small angled bar or something till in spec.

retighten the bolts to 10nm of torque (not much)

also get used to changin that oil bud! filter every other time and i think yours is like a 5 hour interval or something then filter at 10 hours. our engine are a little different but a lot the same, i use rotella-t 15-40 (as do many berg owners so its cheaper to change than 'bike' oil) its JASO approved now for wet clutches and make them frequent oil changes hurt less......and yea you better do them and check it before every ride too....

also if your not a member of husaberg.org yet you should be......

can you see the decomp with the rocker arms off? is it manual or auto decompressor, i only have experience with the auto-decompressor so i can try to help you fix it if needed if you have the auto...

oh yea i forgot i was supposed to say congrats on the new bike too lol sorry i got carried away......just wanted to make sure a new berg guy knows a starting point at least........really love your bergs body style, if it was cheap and easy to buy a complete tank and plastic kit, mine would look just like yours when you get your black plastics...(except be way faster of course) LOLOL just kidding, 501's are pretty sweet bikes man bet it looks awsome when done.......bet it would spank your old ktm125.......:D
 

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Hi.

I just bought a Husaberg FE501 03 model with a smkit. And since I live in Norway with cold winter now, I will spend som money on it to make it look better (hopefully).

My plans is:
Change the sun-bleached yellow plastic to black
Black seat
New decalkit
Blue or black rims (I cant decide, but im black is in my head right now)
Repair the decompression (Its broken so its very heavy to start)
Valve adjustment CHECK
New sparkplug
New oil and filter
New airfilter CHECK

And after that, practise wheelie and have FUN!!




Man that is a great looking bike! I would just restore the plastics with the original colors! That is a beautiful bike "as-is".
 

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i like them in yellow or black, i am definatly a sucker for the black/blue edition though........whatever you do is get a supermoto front fender....hahaha i gues its just me but i hate the flippy flapy enduro front fenders.....

i was also gonna ask you, whats up with your breather tube? it looks like a funnel attached to it or something during you valve adjustment pic? a common mod to do to that bike is to re-route that tube to atmosphere instead of it going into the frame, get a rubber cap from a auto part store to go over the frame, then reroute it to small filter or oneway valve from thumper racing or something....... i have just a screen over the oulet port and a pipe that runs down by the front sproket by your right foot....

if you have it routed to the frame like factory it will 'blow' oil up the pipe and into the airbox during high revs and also get enough oil in the airbox if you tip it on its left side you wont be able to start it due to oil in airbox that will flood the carb with oil.....

ok i am going to bed now before i fall asleep out here again..........
 

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Discussion Starter #9
valve adjustment would be as follows:

set engine to tdc.

remove the rocker inspection covers (like you did in the pic)

loosen locknuts

screw in adjusters till 'just' finger tight

move the nut into position so a corner of it aligns with the straight slot of the adjuster, hold nut perfectly still, back adjuster out till straight edge hits the next corner

tighten lock nut and do not let the center adjuster move

roll the engine twice over and recheck it before you put your caps back on.

its call the 1/6 turn valve adjustment method and is standard on husabergs and more trustworthy than using a feeler guage. do it like this.

also lateral (side to side) movment of the rocker arms is adjustable. if should be a just noticable amount i forget the actual spec, like .002-.003 or something

to adjust this you have to loosen the rocker cover hold down screws above the black cam caps on the flywheel side of engine and also one in the middle by them i think, then take a socket and tap the black cam caps into the engine as needed, or back out with a small angled bar or something till in spec.

retighten the bolts to 10nm of torque (not much)

also get used to changin that oil bud! filter every other time and i think yours is like a 5 hour interval or something then filter at 10 hours. our engine are a little different but a lot the same, i use rotella-t 15-40 (as do many berg owners so its cheaper to change than 'bike' oil) its JASO approved now for wet clutches and make them frequent oil changes hurt less......and yea you better do them and check it before every ride too....

also if your not a member of husaberg.org yet you should be......

can you see the decomp with the rocker arms off? is it manual or auto decompressor, i only have experience with the auto-decompressor so i can try to help you fix it if needed if you have the auto...

oh yea i forgot i was supposed to say congrats on the new bike too lol sorry i got carried away......just wanted to make sure a new berg guy knows a starting point at least........really love your bergs body style, if it was cheap and easy to buy a complete tank and plastic kit, mine would look just like yours when you get your black plastics...(except be way faster of course) LOLOL just kidding, 501's are pretty sweet bikes man bet it looks awsome when done.......bet it would spank your old ktm125.......:D
Thanks for a good guideline! I tried that way, but I used a screwdriver to screw in the adjusters, so I could find the "stop". So i used a feeler gauge ( man that was a shitty job!!). Now all 4 valve are adjust to .10.. Is that ok?


I got the manual decomp. Its broken because the cover on the magura clutch is change with a homemade one, so it isnt connected.



A little update from today:
I got 2 packages :D





I guess this will fix the decomp problem..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i was also gonna ask you, whats up with your breather tube? it looks like a funnel attached to it or something during you valve adjustment pic? a common mod to do to that bike is to re-route that tube to atmosphere instead of it going into the frame, get a rubber cap from a auto part store to go over the frame, then reroute it to small filter or oneway valve from thumper racing or something....... i have just a screen over the oulet port and a pipe that runs down by the front sproket by your right foot....

if you have it routed to the frame like factory it will 'blow' oil up the pipe and into the airbox during high revs and also get enough oil in the airbox if you tip it on its left side you wont be able to start it due to oil in airbox that will flood the carb with oil.....
Hm havent thought about this until now. I will look at it one day ;)
 

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Thanks for a good guideline! I tried that way, but I used a screwdriver to screw in the adjusters, so I could find the "stop". So i used a feeler gauge ( man that was a shitty job!!). Now all 4 valve are adjust to .10.. Is that ok?
the bad thing about using a feeler guage is that it is common for 'feet pads' of the adjusters to be 'cupped' so when you use a feeler guage they could be set high....do you know what i mean? because the guage will make it .10 from the highest part of the cupped part to the top of the valve instead of from inside of the cupped part, i think .10mm is ok, being from norway i assume you mean mm if that is in inches you are way to high. the 1/6th turn method is much much much easier and more accurate than with a feeler guage, but yes it can be done with a feeler guage and i think .10mm is the spec actually.
 

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haha just saw the supermoto black fender in your pic.......much better:thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
the bad thing about using a feeler guage is that it is common for 'feet pads' of the adjusters to be 'cupped' so when you use a feeler guage they could be set high....do you know what i mean? because the guage will make it .10 from the highest part of the cupped part to the top of the valve instead of from inside of the cupped part, i think .10mm is ok, being from norway i assume you mean mm if that is in inches you are way to high. the 1/6th turn method is much much much easier and more accurate than with a feeler guage, but yes it can be done with a feeler guage and i think .10mm is the spec actually.
Ok I will try this the next time :)

Supermoto fender was in my mind the first second i saw the bike haha. Hopefully I can start putting my bike together soon!
Just waiting for my homie to paint my wheels and some of my plastic..

Do you have a picture of you bike?
 

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sure do i just started my own build thread a day or so ago see 'vintage husaberg supermoto build 1997 fe600e' or something close to that.....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Have spend some minutes in the garage today. Mostly fixed the decomp, and install my black plastic.
Still waiting for my paint job.. Hope I can send my stuff soon!

And I wonder. What motoroil is the best for this bike? And do I need a special coolant for this bike? I saw the old one was blue, so I figure that blue is ok.

After taking of the magura clutchcover I saw that I need Mineral oil asap!!!
 

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husaberg recomends 5w-50 full synthetic, i wont pay $10+ a quart so use rotella-t 15w40 non-synthetic and will not be switching anytime soon........i have used it for 2 years of hard riding now without a problem....thats my recomendation but now you know the specified oil and can make your own choice.

coolant: i dont know what the specified coolant is, some guys use water mixed with water wetter only. some guys use special bike coolant only, i had to drain the coolant right after i got it and filled it with automotive green mixes with anything extended life coolant. i cant beleive there is any reason why one would have to use special coolant, the main thing is that you dont mix different types and its all the same type. to flush pull the lowest hose off, and tip it on its side to get it all out, fill it with water and drain it again then fill it with whatever you like.fill it to just over the fins for best results, fill it higher then this and it will be dripping out on the ground the first time you get it hot......
 

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hi

looks good i raced berg's 650

my fav bike so light power good and engine not bad on service i did blow mine up twice but god i rag it :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
was trying to start the bike today, but i it something wrong with the decomp i think.. now its like a 50cc engine when i kickstart it. ZERO compression haha
i think one of the wires needs adjustment! hopefully i can fix this tomorrow!!


damnit i hate to go to bed with a problem like this :p
 
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