Valve Clearance

[Bomb Hills]

When I put the cam back on, do I simply line it up the way it came off for the timing and is there a chance of something moving in the process to screw it up and what do you do if that happens, how do you recover?

Is .25 my target or should I go higher towards .30 since they will tighten up again. I guess, what's my target shim size considering the range is .1mm?

Thank you!

[wholigan?]

I believe you just put the cam back in the way it came out. You are correct in taking one out at a time, this will hold the cam chain in place without worrying about it dropping into the head. There should be numbers on the sprocket side of the cam to assist in lining it up right. As for wet sanding the shims, I was told just to go to a local bike shop and they will either sell you the right size, or swap yours out with the size you need for no xtra charge. I speak from the advice given to me by fellow SMJ'ers and TT'ers, as well as online tutorials found on TT and ADVrider.com My exhaust valves currently are at .18......I need to pull the cam and swap the shims tooI think you aim for the middle for the valve clearance (.15 for the intake, and .25 for the exhaust)

[wholigan?]

Originally Posted by Bomb Hills

Thanks wholigan. Interesting we have about the same mileage and our exhaust valves are both around .18!

yeah, this is the 1st time I checked them. I held off on adjusting them because i'm currently working a deal for a set of E model cams and I figured it would be better to wait and just puit the new to me cams in when I adjusted the valves

[Bomb Hills]

So I went in and did my valves today. I wet sanded them, but would recommend to just buy the correct shims. Wet sanding them takes hours and isn't really worth it unless you are only off by a fraction of a mm. Not sure why these took so much more effort than it did on my Ducati, possibly the metal is harder, or maybe I don't remember what a pain in the ass it was when I did it before.

One thing to be cautious of, is when you pull out the bucket with a telescoping magnet, the shim underneath it can fall out and that needs to be placed back in its hole properly when you put the shim back in.

Getting the timing chain back on correctly is a little bit of a pain and takes some patience to make sure it's correct.

Really though, with the correct shims, it isn't bad at all. Just need to change the oil, adjust the new manual cam chain tentioner and take her for a spin.

[wholigan?]

Originally Posted by Bomb Hills

So I went in and did my valves today. I wet sanded them, but would recommend to just buy the correct shims. Wet sanding them takes hours and isn't really worth it unless you are only off by a fraction of a mm. Not sure why these took so much more effort than it did on my Ducati, possibly the metal is harder, or maybe I don't remember what a pain in the ass it was when I did it before.

One thing to be cautious of, is when you pull out the actual shim with a telescoping magnet, there's a really small round disc underneath it that can fall out and that needs to be placed back in its hole properly when you put the shim back in.

Getting the timing chain back on correctly is a little bit of a pain and takes some patience to make sure it's correct.

Really though, with the correct shims, it isn't bad at all. Just need to change the oil, adjust the new manual cam chain tentioner and take her for a spin.

i think the small round disc underneath the bucket is what actually needs to be replaced. It sounds like you sanded the bucket, not the shim

[Hotcorner]

So did you sand the shim or the bucket? LOL

[wholigan?]