Need advice, Replacing chain/sprockets on the DRZ

[mreavey]

So my chain is more worn out than a BBW's elastic underwear. I have pushed the blocks out as far as they will go and the chain is STILL slack. In fact the bottom of the chain guide has been eaten through by the chain. I guess that means I need a new chain.

:P

So heres what I came up with.

http://www.bustersdirtshop.com/produ...productid=8716
Plugged in the Values for
05-08 DRZ SM
Rental O-ring Chain
and
Driven Blue rear-sproket.

Judging by the picture the package also comes with the front sprocket.

Total comes out to $172.95 with free shipping.


Now.. What ELSE do I need to get the job done? I am tight on cash and need to be as economical about replacing this chain as possible. I have minimal tools and access to a jack.

I dont have any cutters or crimpers for this. Any "hacks"? Any inexpensive alternatives to paying 80$ extra bucks just for a cutter and a crimper?



Am I doing it wrong?

[mreavey]

Then there is this kit I found on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Motor...motiveQ5fTools

[mreavey]

Anything?

I want to make the purchase today and need to make sure I have the right tools and parts.

[fstbusa]

you'll need something to get the chain apart if you don't have a chain breaker tool or some type of grinding tool.

also you'll need a clip style master link if you don't have the riveting tool

[mreavey]

you'll need something to get the chain apart if you don't have a chain breaker tool or some type of grinding tool.

also you'll need a clip style master link if you don't have the riveting tool

Yeah I found this kit for cheap on ebay


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Motor...motiveQ5fTools

Is this for a cam chain or drive chain breaker or both? Does this kit include everthing I need?

I guess I would probably need some lubez too.

[one-gear-rigid]

Once you get the old chain off either with a grinder or a chain breaker(maybe you can borrow one?), you will need a chain press(fairly cheap) if you use an o-ring chain, even with a masterlink and clip. If you go non o-ring you shouldn't need the press. Either way, you'll only need to buy the tools once, and you can use them forever. No such thing as too many tools.

[mreavey]

Thanks. Does this kit I outlined in the OP look like a good deal?


Also, My chain guide is utterly destroyed on the bottom-side. As well as excessive wear on the rubber




rubber further up the swingarm near the front sprocket.


Any affordable replacements for these?

[mreavey]

One more question on this matter. When I first got this bike (had 3200 miles on it) I noticed the swingarm chain rubber had grooves in it already. I thought it was part of the manufacturing at first but a closer look showed that the chain was basically riding on that chain rubber even when pulled tight. Could there be something out of orientation on the swingarm causing the chain to do this? How much clearance should the chain have from the swingarm chain rubber when parked? You can see in the picture above how its got less than a mm left til it hits the swingarm.

[Kwota]

Looks like a lot of long-term damage from a high mileage, overly loose chain, although if its too tight it'll wear even faster.

you can use a dremel to cut off your old chain, but do it soon, if that chain breaks while you're too busy trying to save a nickel here and there, it may slap your engine case, putting a hole in it, or much worse, like whipping your leg or locking up your rear wheel while at speed.

replace with a 520 o-ring chain with a clip and new sprockets, steel will last the longest, aluminum is much lighter but doesn't last as long although the hard annodized sprockets are a bit more durable. the wheels are a great place to save weight so an aluminum rear is a bit better for performance.

if you don't replace your swingarm chain slider your new chain will be destroyed in short order. i used to go through a couple of those every summer on my old crf. the honda one lasted 2x longer than any of the aftermarket ones; i'm pretty sure that will be the case with the drz.

if you don't have the money right now, then stop riding the bike and save your cash until you can afford to fix it because things could get expensive quick if you don't do anything and keep riding and that thing breaks. you might want to file off that sharp metal right now, as shards could get into your orings on the current chain, killing it faster.

this is why they made visa

[Kwota]

Once you get the old chain off either with a grinder or a chain breaker(maybe you can borrow one?), you will need a chain press(fairly cheap) if you use an o-ring chain, even with a masterlink and clip. If you go non o-ring you shouldn't need the press. Either way, you'll only need to buy the tools once, and you can use them forever. No such thing as too many tools.

i've never needed a chain press to put on a clip master link on an o-ring chain; that being said, i do gently use plyers or vice grips and the odd four letter curse to accomplish the same thing. i agree with you about never having enough tools though

[tdreyer]

Wow, I don't know where you are on this??
The eBay chain tool will work for what you need to do. I may get one myself.
I would go with a steel rear sprocket and the best o/x ring chain you can get in a combo pkg. Yes the front needs replacing as well. Something in the neighborhood of $150-$200.

You need a new chain guide and swingarm slider. Go aftermarket. BRP and TM Designworks come to mind. It's going to cost you but they will be trouble free for many many miles.

You have got to get your owners manual and go over the chain tensioning procedures.

And.....it's probably time to change the oil as well. If that chain is any indication your oil change is over due by about 10k.

[mreavey]

Wow, I don't know where you are on this??
The eBay chain tool will work for what you need to do. I may get one myself.
I would go with a steel rear sprocket and the best o/x ring chain you can get in a combo pkg. Yes the front needs replacing as well. Something in the neighborhood of $150-$200.

You need a new chain guide and swingarm slider. Go aftermarket. BRP and TM Designworks come to mind. It's going to cost you but they will be trouble free for many many miles.

You have got to get your owners manual and go over the chain tensioning procedures.

And.....it's probably time to change the oil as well. If that chain is any indication your oil change is over due by about 10k.

I am learning, first bike, owned it less than 6 months. I broke my speedo changing my tires when I first got it. Sucks when it cost money to learn mistakes. Probably sucks more to have injury because of it.

Youre right, I was being stupid for not changing it sooner. In denial for the severity of the issue. I havent ridden it for 2 weeks because of it.



Just changed the oil though. I do every 2000 miles with a factory filter.

I just got a job today. I am currently shopping for all the right parts.

Is an X ring so much better than an O ring? I know it has two points of contact and all but, if i keep oiling (or is waxing better?) the chain, will it still keep a decent lifespan in comparison?

[Lilshit]

I am learning, first bike, owned it less than 6 months. I broke my speedo changing my tires when I first got it. Sucks when it cost money to learn mistakes. Probably sucks more to have injury because of it.

Youre right, I was being stupid for not changing it sooner. In denial for the severity of the issue. I havent ridden it for 2 weeks because of it.



Just changed the oil though. I do every 2000 miles with a factory filter.

I just got a job today. I am currently shopping for all the right parts.

Is an X ring so much better than an O ring? I know it has two points of contact and all but, if i keep oiling (or is waxing better?) the chain, will it still keep a decent lifespan in comparison?

I must be a candy ass I bought my DRZ new and change it about every 1k till I got 3k on the odometer and not its give 150 miles depending on the riding and I use synthetic Amsoil.

[Kwota]

I am learning, first bike, owned it less than 6 months. I broke my speedo changing my tires when I first got it. Sucks when it cost money to learn mistakes. Probably sucks more to have injury because of it.

Youre right, I was being stupid for not changing it sooner. In denial for the severity of the issue. I havent ridden it for 2 weeks because of it.



Just changed the oil though. I do every 2000 miles with a factory filter.

I just got a job today. I am currently shopping for all the right parts.

Is an X ring so much better than an O ring? I know it has two points of contact and all but, if i keep oiling (or is waxing better?) the chain, will it still keep a decent lifespan in comparison?

Keep up with the routine maintenance and keep everything clean and lubed on the bike and you'll get much more mileage out of a chain and the motor than if you just ride it and forget it. If you can, for example, feel the gearbox getting a bit notchy when you shift then you know its time to change the oil soon because its lost its lubricating qualities; keep an eye on everything else when you're washing the bike (check bolts, etc) and then you won't have any bad surprizes far from home.

I like the chain wax as it doesn't fling as much as the oil, and you get what you pay for when it comes to chains.

[tdreyer]

Just bustin' your balls a bit. Good man on the oil change. Glad to hear about the job. If you can, I'd suggest looking into the after market guides, they really will last much longer than stock. The stock slider on my CR would last about 10hrs. I really like the TM Designworks stuff, not sure if they make it for your bike though. Cheap steel sprocket(rear) will last at least as long as a good quality aluminum, however a high quality steel or aluminum/steel(Ironman, super sprox, renthal twinring) will last much longer. With proper adjustment a good quality combo should last you 10-15k.

O-ring chains have lubricant sealed in them. X-ring is the same although it has less drag on the engine. So performance wise an x-ring is slightly better than an O-ring. Both need to be lubed every so often. I use Bel-Ray super clean, cleanest of all I've found and works great. Depending on conditions I'd clean the chain off with kerosene then lube it with your choice every 300-500mi. After lubing let it set overnight and the flingage will be minimized.

Money well spent now will save you $$ in the long run. Now is also time to start buying some tools. That chain tool kit you were looking at is nice but probably not necessary. Most 520 chains for dirt bikes come with a clip style master link(be sure you put it on the correct way, there is a wrong way), no special tool needed. If you do get a rivet type master link you will be required to peen it properly and the most effective way is with the tool mentioned above.

Oh yea! Make your pics smaller.

[mreavey]

Are all Sprockets compatible with all wheels?

Stock on the DRZSM is 15/41T,

I am finding 41T sprockets on ebay, but they are listed as for an R1 or a GSXR. They are listed for 520 chains. Would those sprockets work on the DRZ?

For instance any of these:

http://stores.shop.ebay.com/CycleHea...&submit=Search


I want to make a purchase soon but dont want to buy the wrong thing. Any advice on a good deal for a o-ring chain with front and rear sprockets would be nice. I want to stay stock (15T/41T), albeit steel.

[tdreyer]

No! Hubs are different. You might find through cross referencing that something for this fits that but you need to try bike specific.

Check this out!!! http://www.supersproxusa.com/products.php?cat=1339

[mreavey]

tdreyer,

Thanks. Unfortunately, they are sold out :(

Do you know of any other kits with a good chain @ 15/41 ratio?

I am finding kits but not 15/41 ratio.

[tdreyer]

Give these guys a call. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/home.do I tried to look it by bike but they don't list ratios for the sm.

I also noticed they list a TMDesings chain guide for your application, maybe they can get the swingarm slider as well.

Call them and try to get someone who can cross reference the stuff for your bike. There steel sprocket may be something to try??

If I had a catalog I could look it up but alas I'm at work

[mreavey]

Fudge it,

I bought this

http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/3810...125250400.html


I asked for a rivet link, but will the clip link be strong? Why would they make a strong chain, and then give it a weakest link? If I use the clip link, do i still need tools to install (given that i borrow someones bolt cutters)?

[b.h.]

clip vs rivet master link has no impact on the strength of the chain.

[tdreyer]

The clip will work just fine. I put a rivet on my CR but all my other chains have been with clip style. Only one issue ever, lost a clip. Chain stayed on, new clip no issues. On clip style master links I have litterly 10's of thousands of miles.

No tools needed except for a chain press, very cheep. You would need that anyway. It can be done with a pair of vice grips. The object is to put 2 o-rings on the master link, press it through the two ends of the chain, put on 2 more o-rings, then press the side plate on far enough to allow the clip to fit into the groves on the master link pins. The clip has to set all the way down into the groves on each pin. It must also be facing the correct direction, the closed end will face the the direction of rotation. A chain press will make puting the side plate on that much easier.

Hope fully the chain is in fact cut to the correct length. If it is not you will have to lay the new one next to the old one and measure. Find the pin that needs to be removed, then measure again! Grind the head off flush with a grinder then push the pin out. There is a cheep tool for that as well, money well spent if you have to. Pounding one out with a punch and hammer would be a PITA.

Anyway, that combo looks like it will fit the bill very well. Good chain, good sprocket!

Keep us posted.

[mreavey]

OK Found this online when searching for large images of the chain.




I'm guessing I need to compress the gold parts of the chain behind the clip together, then somehow force the clip to the right to jam into where it needs to be. I have some pliers, hopefully that will do the trick.

[tdreyer]

Press the gold parts together, yes. Once they are fully pressed together the groov in the master link will be visible beyond the gold outer plate. You should not have to force it too much. Before putting it together get the clip and master link and put it on to get a feel for it. You don't need to spread it very much to get it on, don't pry it! The chain packaging will have instructions on it, look them over. Looks like in the photo above the person put some silicone on the clip for added safety. Don't know about that but it is on in the correct direction, that is very important!