Noob with KTM 450 SMR Electrical Questions

[duck450smr]

Intro: I'm an experienced street rider with about 100,000 miles on BMW K bikes. I've completely rebuilt two of them from the ground up and done tons of electrical mods so I'm not afraid of doing my own wiring.

I recently got the itch to buy a supermoto and on Friday I bought a 2005 450 SMR.

Here's the required pic of my new toy:



It was advertised as "I've got everything to make it street legal." Well, yeah, sort of. I don't think it's ever been street legal but at least I have a plate for it and the plate number is already on the title so registering it shouldn't be a big deal. I was told that it's been upgraded to a Trailtech stator and stuff.

So here's what I got in my box of parts that came with the bike:

1 - Four little Lockhart Phillips turn signals. I've already figured out how and where to mount these.

2 - A nifty little aftermarket LED running/brake/license light that will fit nicely under the rear fender. I'll need to fabricate some mounting hardware to get that and the plate on the bike but I've got that figured out.

3 - The rear brake switch is already installed. No connector on the end, just bare wires. I tested it and it works.

4 - No front brake switch. But I've got a switch from a BMW in my basement and I've figured out a way to install that to work with the KTM brake lever.

5 - A KTM headlight. I installed that today. The front brake line is a little short to make it over the front of the new headlight panel so I had to run it behind the panel. No biggie.

6 - What I'm pretty sure is a non-KTM headlight/turn signal/horn combination switch. I used a continuity tester and have figured out the wiring on that.

7 - No horn. I've got some spare horns in the basement so that's not a big issue.

8 - No mirrors. At least for now I'll get some bar end mirrors on Fleabay so it's at least legal.

9 - A KTM mystery wiring harness. I can read the KTM on the tag but no part number. From looking at the wire colors and some KTM wiring diagrams I've deduced that the little black box I've got attached to the harness is the voltage regulator/rectifier.

Since the lights and switches are non-KTM they have different connectors and won't "plug-n-play" with the KTM harness I have. So I'm thinking that my best bet is to use the regulator/rectifier and some turn signal relays and just build my own wiring harness. I've done lots of electrical mods to my other bikes so I'm not a nOOb at wiring and I think it should all be pretty straightforward.

So my plan would be to take what shows on the wiring diagrams as yellow and white wires from the generator, run those to the regulator/rectifier and then power my lights and horn from the yellow-red coming out of the regulator/rectifier.

Does this seem right to those how know KTMs?

[Tfunk]

Can we have the pics of the wiring harness too? Where is the schematic? I have a plated SMR...Moose/Eloectrosport 270W stator/EXC flywheel and run everything on DC after the batt is charged with custom wiring that is alot less work. I really use no KTM wiring.

[duck450smr]

The plot thickens.

I emailed the following picture to Trailtech tech support guys to see if they could be of help in determining what I've got.



Their reply was that it didn't look like theirs but was probably stock EXC Parts. From looking at a few EXC wiring diagrams and the wiring colors I think they may be right.

Here's the wiring harness that came in the box of parts with the bike. The guy told me at was a Euro EXC harness but given other misinfo from him who knows? (He bought the bike a couple of years ago and didn't do much with it.)



The part number on the tag is worn and hard to read but I THINK it is 594.11.07?.000

Here's the voltage regulator on the wiring harness:




From the KTM wiring diagrams I've looked at the colors to it's connector seem to agree: Brown, Yellow, White, Yellow-Red:




Here's a sample from a KTM EXC wiring diagram which leads me to beleive that I mihgt be able to just connect the voltage regulator to the yellow and white wires and get 12V DC out of the Yellow-Red wire: (with the brown wire grounded of course)




So the question becomes how many watts can I get from the stator?

I pulled the bulb from the EXC headlight I've installed and it says it's 35/35W.

In addition to that I need to run an LED tail light setup (as LEDs that can't draw very much current) and four little Lockhart Phillips 122-0031 turn signals.

In the meantime I fabricted some stuff and got the LED tail light and plate mounted under the rear fender. (I put the turn signals up at a 45 degree angle because it looked like the right one might get melted by the exhaust if pointed straight to the side.)

[Tfunk]

I think you are on the right track as to the hook-up to the voltage reg. I think the wires are dc and ac currents for use on the bike. Open up the harness more and take a pic please if poss.

I think there is a way with a good digital multimeter to see if the white wire is ac votage or the yellow and the stock set-up uses ac power for lighting and a voltage reg to run DC for the batt and accessories.

[duck450smr]

After some futher looking at wiring diagrams I've decided what to do for my first attempt at getting this bike lit up for the street:

Steal the regulator from the extra wiring harness that came with the bike and wire it into the existing white and yellow wiring on the bike as shown on the KTM wiring diagrams.

I'll wire up the headlight AC to the yellow wire since that's what the KTM wiring diagrams I've been looking at show.

I've also come to the conclusion that in order to function properly that the regulator/rectifier needs to be wired up to a capacitor or batterry as well. A battery seems like a much better idea so I found a 5 amp-hour sealed lead acid battery for $15 shipped so I'll make my own battery plate for under the seat and mount it there. Since it's a kick start bike and the DC side of things will only be running the LED tail light assembly, turn signal and horn(which I never use anyhow when riding) I don't think I'll be short on power for those.

I'll temporarily install a digital DC voltmeter that I have on the handlebars and see how things look when idling/riding. I think I should be OK.

If the headlight doesn't get enough voltage and looks dim at idle then I'll try running the headlight on the DC side and see how that works.

Once I've got things working I'll trying running a heated jacket liner I've got too just to see if the system has enough spare watts for that.

I'll post some pics and results when I get things installed.

[ZXSIXR]

Run as much LED as possible and you will cut down the draw. Also while more expensive a HID will draw less after its turned on that a regular bulb its just the initial start is where it draws the most power.

[Tfunk]

The inner rear fender on your SMR already has three mounting stud to mount a factory battery box from KTM. You will need the box and three screws and a factory battery mount is done.

59011055100 Battery box/carrier qty 1 $8.20 retail
0021060003 washer-qty 3-.30 ea
0017060203 screw -qty 3- .17ea

factory stuff for cheap to mount your battery right. UNDER $10.00

[duck450smr]

The inner rear fender on your SMR already has three mounting stud to mount a factory battery box from KTM. You will need the box and three screws and a factory battery mount is done.

59011055100 Battery box/carrier qty 1 $8.20 retail
0021060003 washer-qty 3-.30 ea
0017060203 screw -qty 3- .17ea

factory stuff for cheap to mount your battery right. UNDER $10.00

Thanks. Wow, that is pretty cheap.

I did pull the seat off already and have seen some KTM battery setups doing Google image searches.

I was thinking of making my own aluminum plate though. The battery I ordered is only three inches wide so my plan is to cut a custom aluminum plate to mount there and mount the voltage regulator, turn signal relay and an aux fuse block next to the battery to minimize clutter under the tank and keep things organized.

[duck450smr]

Run as much LED as possible and you will cut down the draw. Also while more expensive a HID will draw less after its turned on that a regular bulb its just the initial start is where it draws the most power.

+! on both points.

I've already installed an LED tail/brake light assembly.