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Thread: 690 SMC valve check/adjust (pics + questions)

  1. #51
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    both of my bearings have failed. There wasnt a great deal of scoring, but the bearing had like 1-2mm of play. I have done about 10-15k km since then with no problems.

  2. #52
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    Default Other reasons why it tick?

    I wonder if there could be other reasons for ticking.
    I wonder about the auto decomp mechanism.
    My auto decomp spring seems very weak. It requires almost no force to move the weight by hand. Is this how it should be?
    Last edited by Ulf; 10-05-2010 at 12:09 PM.

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ulf View Post
    I wonder if there could be other reasons for ticking, since my rockers seams to be ok.
    I wonder about the auto decomp mechanism.
    My auto decomp spring seems very weak. It requires almost no force to move the weight by hand. Is this how it should be?
    I've heard the intermittent loud ticking could be from the cam chain tensioner too. What I can tell you is that I bought mine with 4300 miles on it, and it sounded great. I put maybe 3 or 4K miles on it, and it started some loud ticking after hot starts. Not often, but then it became more frequent. At around 12K miles, I replaced the intake rocker because the roller was scored. Now I've put about 2K miles on the bike and have not heard the hot start ticking noise once. I conclude from this that my ticking was from the intake rocker arm bearing failing and the cam lobe hitting and dragging on it.
    Remembering #93 Stacy Summers, 1972--2011

    sweat, don't bleed.
    --rrp

  4. #54
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    Today I have checked valve clearance on my 690 enduro EU 2008 model. I bought used bike with 11000km on it. Since i can only get ones with 0.05, 0.1, 0.15mm thickness iam not sure if my valves r in spec after I check them. Valve clearance should be 0.1mm with +/-0.03mm tolerance (this is how it see 0.07-0.13mm valve clearance from manual)

    This is what i have found/did:

    So 0.05mm feeler gauge fits easy under all valves with almost no drag when pulling out and no problem at all. So i asume all valves r well above 0.05mm mark.

    Now 0.1mm feeler gauge fits under exhaust valves with some drag, takes little effort to get feeler gauge in but not much so i think exhaust valves are round 0.1mm clearance. On the intake side 1st valve could fit 0.1mm but it had fair ammount of drag and it little bit more effort to get it in then on exhaust side, on the 2nd valve i could not even fit it in. So i asume 1st valve has 0.1mm clearance or little less but 2nd one is closer to 0.07mm since i cant fit 0.1mm gauge? So I used 1000/600 sand paper on 2nd valve shim and grind it a bit, I didnt even sand 0.025mm from it but I did decide to check clearance anyway just to make sure I dont over do it. It turned out that after that little bit of sanding i could fit 0.1 gauge under both intake valves and had more/less equal and fair ammount of drag with some effort to get the feeler gauge in.

    I could not put 0.15mm feeler gauge under any valve. I concluded that iam well below 0.15mm clearance for all valves.

    On my test run i could hear valves ticking. I think thats normal and better then not to be able to hear them ticking.

    Since its my first time doing this I need do be sure that Iam doing this properly and getting to right conclusions.
    Last edited by Anril; 11-29-2010 at 02:51 PM.

  5. #55
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    I suggest you get a feeler gauge. got mine from ebay for like $6. That is no way to check valves, after all the trouble taking the cover out. And sandparer is no way to adjust valves.

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anril View Post
    Today I have checked valve clearance on my 690 enduro EU 2008 model. I bought used bike with 11000km on it. Since i can only get ones with 0.05, 0.1, 0.15mm thickness iam not sure if my valves r in spec after I check them. Valve clearance should be 0.1mm with +/-0.03mm tolerance (this is how it see 0.07-0.13mm valve clearance from manual)

    This is what i have found/did:

    So 0.05mm feeler gauge fits easy under all valves with almost no drag when pulling out and no problem at all. So i asume all valves r well above 0.05mm mark.

    Now 0.1mm feeler gauge fits under exhaust valves with some drag, takes little effort to get feeler gauge in but not much so i think exhaust valves are round 0.1mm clearance. On the intake side 1st valve could fit 0.1mm but it had fair ammount of drag and it little bit more effort to get it in then on exhaust side, on the 2nd valve i could not even fit it in. So i asume 1st valve has 0.1mm clearance or little less but 2nd one is closer to 0.07mm since i cant fit 0.1mm gauge? So I used 1000/600 sand paper on 2nd valve shim and grind it a bit, I didnt even sand 0.025mm from it but I did decide to check clearance anyway just to make sure I dont over do it. It turned out that after that little bit of sanding i could fit 0.1 gauge under both intake valves and had more/less equal and fair ammount of drag with some effort to get the feeler gauge in.

    I could not put 0.15mm feeler gauge under any valve. I concluded that iam well below 0.15mm clearance for all valves.

    On my test run i could hear valves ticking. I think thats normal and better then not to be able to hear them ticking.

    Since its my first time doing this I need do be sure that Iam doing this properly and getting to right conclusions.
    Most likely you will not be able to sand them down. The shims are hardened steel and only true way to get them thinner is to put them on a surface grinder. That way you know they are flat and true. And yes get a feeler gauge set.
    Honda 2007 CRF150R
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  7. #57
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    I got my self a pro-x shim set (10mm I think), Only have used one shim so far, but the time and effort it saves you from going to a dealer and buing valve shims is priceless

  8. #58
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    Most likely you will not be able to sand them down. The shims are hardened steel and only true way to get them thinner is to put them on a surface grinder. That way you know they are flat and true. And yes get a feeler gauge set.
    I already did sand it since before sanding i could not put 0.1mm feeler gauge in and after sanding I could. KTM dealer in my country says they sand them down if needed wich is next logical step if u have measured 0.07mm or 0.13mm clearance since u can only get shims in 0.05mm steps.

    I will try to get better feeler gauge set. It seams hard to get proper set in my country.
    Last edited by Anril; 11-30-2010 at 08:43 AM.

  9. #59
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    very dumb question: with the feeler gauge are you checking the clearance between the shim and the rocker arm?

  10. #60
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    Nope, not dumb. Indeed, that is the gap you are measuring. You want the feeler blade to grab but not hang tight. You should not have to use a lot of force but also you should have to be deliberate about getting the blade in and out. If you think about it, there is no way you can compress the spring with a blade that is too large so there's no danger of over estimating the gap. There is plenty of danger in underestimating though. Still, too-small clearances are worse than too-large.
    Remembering #93 Stacy Summers, 1972--2011

    sweat, don't bleed.
    --rrp

  11. #61
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    Thanks. I just ordered the feeler gauge and the shim kit today. I sure hope my bearings are ok. I don't hear any awkward noises, but the mileage is getting up there and the valves need checking. I hope to not need any new roller bearings.

  12. #62
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    Just keep in mind that replacing rocker arms is cheaper than replacing top ends. EVERYONE is seeing bearing failure on these 690s so go ahead and order one of each (intake and exhaust). Getting down into the rockers is no big deal so if you see scoring, you can still button it back up and replace the bad rocker after it ships to you.
    Remembering #93 Stacy Summers, 1972--2011

    sweat, don't bleed.
    --rrp

  13. #63
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    Default Shims

    Don't know if this has been posted already but it can't hurt. I'm not sure why but the KTM shims (and hot shims, pro-x, yadda) all only come in .05mm increments. You can never get it right in the middle of the spec when it's time to adjust em.

    Someone sent me a link to HD v-rod shim part #s, that come in half-steps (.025mm increments) which makes more sense to me. They're the same diameter and apparently a perfect swap. See here: http://paochow.com/forum/index.php?topic=40.0

    When I adjusted my shims I found that some of the shims shipped from the factory were odd sizes that they don't sell. Hope it helps, Jeff

  14. #64
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    Another stupid question: I had assumed you drain the oil before adjusting the valves, but is it truly necessary? I ordered the parts to do an oil change at the same time, but I forgot that I had meant to order new screens as well, but I don't want to wait for those to adjust the valves. Thanks.

  15. #65
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    No there is no need to change the oil before the valve check.

    I have taken out the engine with the oil still inside. and you can take off the valve cover without spilling oil.

    (KTM uses a rubber seal on this cover, zo you dont even have to change a gasket when doing a valve check.)
    Nemo me cohabitat inpuntem

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    Thanks for the confirmation!

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    I'm new to supermotos and was looking to get a 690, but my wallet says I should go for an older 640 or 625. Do the 640 and 625 have the same issue?

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by md6380 View Post
    I'm new to supermotos and was looking to get a 690, but my wallet says I should go for an older 640 or 625. Do the 640 and 625 have the same issue?
    Go with your wallet. There are some really good deals out there on 690's so if you found a deal then I'd do it. I will be looking for another 625 or at least a motor for my current ride and will not likely go 690.

    Yes, the 625 also has an issue with the intake rocker roller(well documented if you look here and at ADVRider). However they do not use shim under bucket for valve adjustment(very good and reliable design). It uses a screw and lock nut.

    56,000mi 2 intake rollers and 2 cams(due to the roller seizing) but I'm not complaining at all. If it were to happen again I could fix it for $300 - $400. I have a theory on what is happening and I over fill my oil a bit as a result.





    Thread hijack complete, back to the 690 valves and issues.
    ~Tim

    "04 625 SXC
    '04 625 SMC 76,xxx mi.
    '97 CR500 SOLD

  19. #69
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    Thanks for all the help so far. Assuming I'm doing this right, 3 of the 4 valves look OK. Both intakes and one exhaust feel a bit tighter than 10. I fit the 10 gauge in and drag it out, but only by pulling it through, not pushing it through. 1 exhaust valve is super loose though. I can almost push in the 15. That is semi-surprising to me. I'm going to have to replace that shim. Prolly add at least 5 to the existing shim.

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by geremy View Post
    Thanks for all the help so far. Assuming I'm doing this right, 3 of the 4 valves look OK. Both intakes and one exhaust feel a bit tighter than 10. I fit the 10 gauge in and drag it out, but only by pulling it through, not pushing it through. 1 exhaust valve is super loose though. I can almost push in the 15. That is semi-surprising to me. I'm going to have to replace that shim. Prolly add at least 5 to the existing shim.
    I hope you got feeler gauges 5-6-7-8-9-10-15-20-30 etc otherwise it will be hard to figure out whats the actual clearance.

    If you got more than 1 valves out of tolerance you might be lucky and be able to swap them

    Ussually its the valve seat that is gradually worn (its normal) and the valve clearance gets smaller. If I find a bigger gap, or a gap that grew too fast from the previous service (I keep a log of valve clearances), I would check the rest of the components.

    And since its only 2 screws, its very very easy to take out the rocker arms and check for too much bearing play or other wear.

    Hope this helps


    Also put a cloth in the chain even before taking out any rocker arms, I did it first thing, and was a good idea, cause while checking the valves, the tiny screw that holds the gauges together, went loose and luckily landed on the cloth i put around the cam chain. Scary
    Last edited by Oki; 01-02-2011 at 01:58 PM.

  21. #71
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    Unfortunately the KTM gauge I bought only has 5,10,12,15,20,25 etc. 5 fits very easily, 10 is much harder but I can still drag in through. They are probably sitting a bit lower than 10. I wonder what is up with the right-side exhaust though. Like I said I can drag the 15 through it. I bought a shim kit from ktm-parts so I should be ok, I hope.

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by geremy View Post
    Unfortunately the KTM gauge I bought only has 5,10,12,15,20,25 etc. 5 fits very easily, 10 is much harder but I can still drag in through. They are probably sitting a bit lower than 10. I wonder what is up with the right-side exhaust though. Like I said I can drag the 15 through it. I bought a shim kit from ktm-parts so I should be ok, I hope.
    I still reccomend you buy a cheap feeler gauge that has the rest of the sizes
    $5 from flee bay, (no wonder the screw went loose )

    "Drag the 15 through it", you mean that it needs some force to through, so its like 13-14?

    I would investigate a bit to see if anything is wrong, but I wouldnt worry too much. You have any idea what was the clearance the previous time? It could have been 13 (which is within tolerance) and that it grew a little bit more

  23. #73
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    Please do yourself a favour and buy a decent set of feeler gauges.

    À valve check should be done properly or not at all. I had the same problem with THE feeler gauges not being precice enough.

    I found ** set in eBay for €15. Metric and imperial.
    Nemo me cohabitat inpuntem

  24. #74
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    So I ran out to get a worklight and a different feeler gauge. The good 3 valves all measure .102mm, while the bad one is greater than .127. I can't quite fit in the .15 or .153, but the .12 and .123 fit easily. So I'd say it's around .14mm

  25. #75
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    I did valve check yesturday with new feeler gauges that has 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.15 mm. The 0.08 mm blade would clear all valves easly, but 0.09 would be harder to slide in, but i was still able to even put 0.12mm under 1 valve (it took time and effort and i belive i could do that under all of them if i tryed). I could not put 0.13mm under any valve. With new gauges i still know what i knew with old ones. I still cant say if one valve has 0.08 or 0.12mm clearance, but i can tell that all r above 0.08mm clearance and all are below 0.13mm clearance = they r in spec.
    Last edited by Anril; 01-03-2011 at 12:59 PM.

  26. #76
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    you should hold the gauge lightly with two fingers from one end and try το push it in. If it slightly bends its too big. Try with the tip or the side. Combine the two closest (for example 5 and 6) to make 11 (not 7 and 4) and so
    on hope this helps

  27. #77
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    Oh, to follow-up from my previous posts, I changed what be the Front right (Fr) shim. It was very loose. Over 0.13. When I removed it, it said 2. 0, the middle number had been worn off. I measured it with a caliper and compared it to some of the other shims I had on hand. I believe it was a 2.50. I installed a 2.60 shim and now all valves are in check.

    The roller bearings all had some very minor scoring. I found no lateral play in the intake bearing, but there was definitely a bit in the exhaust. I have to order a new one.

    All-in-all though, I was very pleased with how easy it is to check the valves. The hardest part is slipping the airbox back on over the throttle body. I find it easier to check the valves than change the oil!

  28. #78
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    "Lateral play" what do u mean? Mine rocker arm could move left-right on the rockerarm shaft but had no other play. Both intake and exhaust bearings had marks on them but it seamed like break in kinda thing.

  29. #79
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    I'm not talking about the arm itself, I'm talking about the bearing captured on the arm. While holding the arm steady I could move the bearing from side to side slightly. When I moved it, I could hear a clicking sound too.

  30. #80
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    Well i did try exhaust rockerarm bearing and it didnt had any play...

  31. #81
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    Since the cold weather has me pretty much shut down for a while, I went ahead and did my first valve check at 5,776 miles instead of 6,200. All four valves had at least .004" of clearance. I could actually force the .005" feeler in a couple of them but it was very tight. Also, there were very light wear marks on the intake rocker and the exhaust looked even better. Both turned very smoothly with my fingers. And finally, the cam lobes looked pristine. I was stoked and buttoned her up (after removing the SAS system ).

    I did noticed some chaffing on a fuel line but will post the info in a separate post.

    Later,
    Swifty
    2009 KTM 690 SMC (Urban Assault.....Like a fun girlfriend.)
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  32. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdreyer View Post
    I have a theory on what is happening and I over fill my oil a bit as a result.
    Care to elaborate?

    Quote Originally Posted by geremy View Post
    I'm not talking about the arm itself, I'm talking about the bearing captured on the arm. While holding the arm steady I could move the bearing from side to side slightly. When I moved it, I could hear a clicking sound too.
    I just got a used 2007 690 Supermoto with 8400 miles and this is what I found as well. Both intake and exhaust rocker bearings were bad. I think I'll be checking the valves and bearings a lot more often than 6000 miles, maybe every oil change.
    2007 RXV550SM/2007 KTM 690SM
    NO REMORSE / NO REGRET Previous Supermotos: 2008 SM510R

  33. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by exit90a View Post
    Care to elaborate?
    Sure, the oil is fed to the valve train by being picked up in the sump by the timing chain. It is then flung into the rocker box where it lubricates the parts. Without question, not enough oil is getting to the intake roller bearing. On my 625 the intake bearing is smaller to boot and that just compounds the problem, not sure of the rollers on the 690. Anyway, if you look at the oil sight glass and take into account where the lower sprocket sits in relation to the oil level in the sump you can clearly see that the chain is only just in the very top of the oil surface. When the engine is running the oil is being used in other parts of the motor and the sump is not as full as it was so the timing chain has very little oil to pick up and fling to the top end, Keep in mind there is nothing directing that oil to go where needed up there.

    Now, in my opinion, if you are at higher RPM for extended periods....like my blast down the hwy @ 75mph for :15 till I get to town, the oil is being pumped and flung at such a rate that the sump is at a very low level. This situation does not allow enough oil to reach the valve train for extended periods. Add all that together and after a while the intake bearing, which seems to be most vulnerable due to size and location of adequate oil bath, fails.

    Run low on oil and the problem would only get worse faster.

    So I, in my small little brain, decided to fill my oil to the top, actually just above the top, of the oil sight glass. All has been good since, so I'll wait and see?

    Quick history; I've had this bike for 3years 3 months, I've put over 50,000 miles on it. The first intake rocker failed at 19k, then the second failure at 32k. I do not get oil in the air box, as some suggest will happen if the oil is over filled,I also don't(can't) do looong extended wheelies which also add to oil in the air box issues.


    And before anyone jumps..she does get warmed up properly before each ride. Something that is key to any thumper's longevity.
    Last edited by tdreyer; 01-12-2011 at 09:16 AM.
    ~Tim

    "04 625 SXC
    '04 625 SMC 76,xxx mi.
    '97 CR500 SOLD

  34. #84
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    That's an interesting theory and something I'm gonna look into as well. Even if there is no way to improve the lubrication of the rocker/bearings, it's fairly cheap replacement part, so I'm not too worried. I just want to come up with a reliable time line for replacement so no further serious damage is done. Thanks!!!
    2007 RXV550SM/2007 KTM 690SM
    NO REMORSE / NO REGRET Previous Supermotos: 2008 SM510R

  35. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by exit90a View Post
    That's an interesting theory and something I'm gonna look into as well. Even if there is no way to improve the lubrication of the rocker/bearings, it's fairly cheap replacement part, so I'm not too worried. I just want to come up with a reliable time line for replacement so no further serious damage is done. Thanks!!!
    I know a guy over on ADVrider who replaces his about every 9k. He believes they should be treated as a service item.

    Last time I did mine I bought new arms with bearings already peened in. I also bought a new intake roller as I still had a new exhaust roller on hand. So after the last job I rebuilt the original set and have them set aside for ready spares. When I do my valve checks, if the intake gets loose, I'll replace them. Hopefully that will never happen. She really is due for a complete overhaul.
    ~Tim

    "04 625 SXC
    '04 625 SMC 76,xxx mi.
    '97 CR500 SOLD

  36. #86
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    So, I just took another look at my valve clearances/rockers after 7kmi and a lot of high rpm running at NJMP. All my valves were at .004. spot on. I have a few lines on the intake rocker bearing and less on the exhaust. I have new in box rockers, so I took the marked ones out to compare with the new. They felt exactly the same. Just a tiny bit of lateral play and smooth rolling. So, I put the old ones back in and will go another few K before checking again. I can't really see tossing them when they are still tight and functioning well.

    The valve check interval seems frequent enough that just careful observation should be good.
    Paab (sounds like Saab)

  37. #87
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    If you have scoring on the roller bearing, it means the bearing is failing and the cam lobe is dragging across the roller because it is not turning freely. It's a process, not a sudden thing. When I took mine apart at 12K miles, the exhaust was ok but the intake was scored. I could flick the roller, and it felt fine. However, when I pushed force into the bearing (directly at the bearing, not laterally), it bound and felt gritty. These get sketchy under force, and the intake is more prone than the exhaust.

    I'm at 18K miles on my 690 and will be cracking it open soon to see how the intake rocker I put in 6K miles ago looks now. Any obvious scoring, and it's coming out.
    Remembering #93 Stacy Summers, 1972--2011

    sweat, don't bleed.
    --rrp

  38. #88
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    I couldn't make it feel gritty no matter how I applied force to it. I really think some of the marking happens immediately and does not mean the bearing is failing. There must be a design or material flaw in these components along with the bearing weakness.
    Paab (sounds like Saab)

  39. #89
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    Paab, you may not be at the miles yet for noticeable problems. Also, I wonder if maybe track duty is actually easier on the top end than urban and suburban street riding. Let me ask you this. Have you ever shut your bike off hot, started it back up only a few minutes later, and hard a God-awful ticking from the top end that lasted for 3-5 seconds? Mine started doing this as it approached 12K miles. Vanished after I put the replacement intake rocker in the head and since that was the only hardware change I made, I conclude that the loud ticking after a hot start is the cam lobe skipping over the intake roller.

    My bike has gotten a little bit more noisy on warm days, and I can't wait to see what I have under the cover now at 18K miles.
    Remembering #93 Stacy Summers, 1972--2011

    sweat, don't bleed.
    --rrp

  40. #90
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    I haven't noticed any ticking other than the normal clatter. I think I'll change them out at the next valve check. I know I'll have to reshim because I test fit the new items and things were a little tight.
    Paab (sounds like Saab)

  41. #91
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    Just did my 12000 mile valve adjustment. Posted the info in the rocker arm thread.
    http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showt...10#post1243610

  42. #92
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    Thumbs up

    Just thought I'd post my valve check info.

    2008 KTM 690 SMC with 9,306 miles.

    Checked valves and all were within spec. Here is the breakdown:

    Left Intake had a shim size of 10x2.65mm with a clearance of tight 0.102mm.
    Right Intake had a shim size of 10x2.65mm with a clearance of a tight 0.102mm.
    Left Exhaust had a shim size of 10x2.60mm with a clearance of a loose 0.102mm.
    Right Exhaust had a shim size of 10x2.65mm with a clearance of a tight 0.102mm.

    The Rocker Arm bearings seemed to have some wear on them, but nothing bad. They were smooth to the touch and rotated without any issues.

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  43. #93
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    Cedar Falls, Iowa, United States
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    Quote Originally Posted by Garconis View Post
    Just thought I'd post my valve check info.

    2008 KTM 690 SMC with 9,306 miles.

    Checked valves and all were within spec. Here is the breakdown:

    Left Intake had a shim size of 10x2.65mm with a clearance of tight 0.102mm.
    Right Intake had a shim size of 10x2.65mm with a clearance of a tight 0.102mm.
    Left Exhaust had a shim size of 10x2.60mm with a clearance of a loose 0.102mm.
    Right Exhaust had a shim size of 10x2.65mm with a clearance of a tight 0.102mm.

    The Rocker Arm bearings seemed to have some wear on them, but nothing bad. They were smooth to the touch and rotated without any issues.

    Everything I've read about the intake rocker bearing is that it may feel smooth when rolled while the rocker is installed but once taken off and some force put on it, it may bind up a bit.
    2009 ktm 690SMC
    2014 ktm 300 xc-w
    2007 suzuki drz400sm (sold)
    2003 suzuki turbo hayabusa (sold)
    2008 yamaha yz250f (sold)

  44. #94
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Silver Spring, MD
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    Just did my check at 18,300 miles, and all valves were ~0.1 mm gap at TDC.

    I noticed scoring on both rollers. I thought I had a new intake rocker on the shelf, but I was wrong. Since I haven't heard any unusual top end noise like I was hearing previously before swapping out the intake rocker at 12K miles, I left both rockers in there with plans to replace both next valve check at 22-24K miles.

    I put in a new spark plug, and I have a feeling that my hard start problems were because of a worn spark plug. Worn how? The tip was nearly gone! It had a little point, and the gap was huge. I'll post photos in a little while. Color and carbon coat looked normal so I'm not concerned about damagingly lean combustion. Spark cone was a golden brown color.
    Remembering #93 Stacy Summers, 1972--2011

    sweat, don't bleed.
    --rrp

  45. #95
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    Binghamton, NY
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    This is a pic of my spark plug at about 9K miles.

    Check out my Classy SUPERMOTO T-Shirts Design for SALE on eBay! *-*AND NOW NEW RETRO SUPERMOTO T-Shirts Design for SALE on eBay!

    2008 KTM 690 SMC | My YouTube | My Website | My deviantART

  46. #96
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Silver Spring, MD
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    I wish this thread would get stickie'd already.

    For reference to people like me using this thread as a guide, there is the KTM Genuine Spare Parts spark plug part number: 78039093000, NGK LKAR8A-9.
    Remembering #93 Stacy Summers, 1972--2011

    sweat, don't bleed.
    --rrp

  47. #97
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Binghamton, NY
    Posts
    539

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    Yep, just put in a new spark plug. Bike runs great so far. Though, once it had a difficult time starting, and the FI light came on for a second as it was starting. Didn't flash, and went right off though.
    Check out my Classy SUPERMOTO T-Shirts Design for SALE on eBay! *-*AND NOW NEW RETRO SUPERMOTO T-Shirts Design for SALE on eBay!

    2008 KTM 690 SMC | My YouTube | My Website | My deviantART

  48. #98
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Hickory, north carolina
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    338

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    i just changed my plug and i am still having trouble cranking mine. the light come on and then goes right off also. i wish i could figure this out.
    08 Ktm 690 smc
    1975 honda cb550
    1978 Honda z50
    1985 honda z50 (108 stroker)

  49. #99
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Loganton, PA
    Posts
    90

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    Quote Originally Posted by terrafirma10 View Post
    i just changed my plug and i am still having trouble cranking mine. the light come on and then goes right off also. i wish i could figure this out.
    I'm thinking battery. My 08 duke is starting hard too, I've noticed it after this past winter.
    08 690 Duke - Leo Vince underbody - airbox removed/ K&M cone - Tuneboy
    06 R6-sold 05 R6-sold 03 R6-totaled 99 R6-sold 96 GS500E gave to my Dad

  50. #100
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Binghamton, NY
    Posts
    539

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    Quote Originally Posted by jetsr6 View Post
    I'm thinking battery. My 08 duke is starting hard too, I've noticed it after this past winter.
    I don't think it is the battery. Granted, I've had my stock battery since June 2008, but it starts up with no problem usually. And I detach it every winter too. When I (rarely) do have an issue with the bike starting, it still starts, but it seems to the starter tries for like a half-second, and then pauses, and then starts trying again, then it starts. But its weird that it stops for a second, and then continues trying.
    Check out my Classy SUPERMOTO T-Shirts Design for SALE on eBay! *-*AND NOW NEW RETRO SUPERMOTO T-Shirts Design for SALE on eBay!

    2008 KTM 690 SMC | My YouTube | My Website | My deviantART

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