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Thread: 690 SMC valve check/adjust (pics + questions)

  1. #1
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    Default 690 SMC valve check/adjust (pics + questions)

    Since the weather is going to be crappy for at least another week, I figured it was time to do the 600 mile valve check on the 690. I removed the 2 front side fairings, the voltage regulator on the right (for access to the right airbox bolt) and the air box.

    To remove the airbox, you need to first remove the lid as well as the 4 screws that hold it in place (2 front, 2 back). You should be able to hold the voltage regulator aside to get to the right front bolt. Next, disconnect the 2 or 3 hoses that are connected to the air and the electronic sensor. Once that is done, just loosen the clamp where the air boot connects to the throttle body. You should be able to work it off pretty easily. Now you have the cylinder head cover expose. There are 2 hoses that connect into a metal dealie on the top, unclamp and remove them. There is also an electrical connector that kind of lays on top of the head cover, it helps to disconnect this. You can remove the spark plug while you are at it. I found the tools that came with the bike the easiest to use to do this. Here's a few pics of the plug. Certainly looks lean to me:




    Now simply remove the 4 bolts that hold the head cover on. You might have to wiggle the head cover a bit to get it loose, but it should come off pretty easily.

    Now you have the valve drive exposed and it's time to find TDC. To do this, I had the bike on a stand and put it in top gear. Roll the wheel forward until the valves close after the compression stroke. There also appears to be a way to identify TDC by looking at the cam. There is a line engraved on the backside of the cam gear that appears to line up with a bolt at the top of the head right after the valves close on compression stoke. Not only that, but the 2 outside holes on the cam gear line up perfectly with the rocker arm shaft removal holes (as seen in the first pic below. That way, you can remove the rocker arms without removing the cam. Can anyone confirm is if this method of the little mark lining up and the rocker arm shaft removal holes lining up is TDC?

    Here are some pics.




    Assuming that I am at TDC, I went ahead an measured the clearances. There is a label on the frame that gives the valve clearance specs. Both intake and exhaust appear to use the same specs which are .07mm - .13mm (approx. .003in - .005in). Can someome verify if this is the case?. Here's a pic (had to read it with a small mirror, then use photoshop to "reverse" it for pic):



    Anyway, here are my numbers (valve orientation as if sitting on bike):

    Exhaust
    LFr = .102 (.004) - dead center
    RFr = .102 (.004) - dead center

    Intake
    LRr = .076 (.003) shim= .255 - slightly tight
    RRr = .051 (.002) shim= .260 - slightly tighter

    So my intakes are on the tight side, time to check the shims. Remove the 2 bolts that hold the rocker arm shaft in place (circled in pic):



    Here is a side shot of the intake valves:



    Remember how the cam gear holes line up with the rocker arm shaft removal holes? I now took the longer rocker arm shaft bolt and, going through the right hole on the cam, threaded it into the rocker arm shaft a few turns. Next, simply pull out the shaft and you can remove the rocker arm. I removed each shim with a magnet and measured them with a digital caliper and got the numbers I listed above. There were printed numbers on the shims, but all I could read was the first and last numbers: 2 and 5 on the LRr shim, and 2 and 0 on the RRr shim. The digital caliper read 2.54 on the RRr shim and 2.61 on the LRr shim so I came to the conclusion that they are 2.55 and 2.60 shims based on the KTM part numbers.

    If my math is correct, I will need the following shims now for my intake valves:

    LRr 2.30 shim should make clearance .102 (.004) center
    RRr 2.10 shim should make clearance .102 (.004) center

    Can someone confirm if this is correct?. If so, I'm going to go ahead and order them from the dealer so I can get back to riding!

    I am new to shim type valve adjusts so I just want to make sure that I am doing it right. SO far, it's really not much harder than the screw adjust type, just some more parts involved.

    Well, I hope that I have done this right and I hope that these pics and write up might help someone else.

  2. #2
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    Everything looks right to me.
    You dont really need to be at TDC to check the valves. As long as the round part of the cam is against the rocker arm (ie the lobe is NOT on the rocker) you can correctly check the clearance.
    You should check with your shop and see if they will just swap shims with you.
    I'm a former tech....
    current ride: 2008 DRZ400SM
    previous supermoto rides: 2000 YZ426F 2008 KTM 690SMC 2008 Yamaha WR250X

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by miketegra View Post
    Everything looks right to me.
    You dont really need to be at TDC to check the valves. As long as the round part of the cam is against the rocker arm (ie the lobe is NOT on the rocker) you can correctly check the clearance.
    You should check with your shop and see if they will just swap shims with you.
    Thanks Mike. Swapping the shims is actually quite easy, I just need to make sure that I get the right sizes. I'm pretty sure that my math is correct to determine the sizes so I've just got to get them ordered. Might even try to get them from a Harley/Buell *shivers* dealer.

    One weird thing that I did notice, if I roll the TDC mark forward just a little bit more, then I can fit the .102 (.004) feeler in both intake valves, very strange. Now I'm not sure if I should just go with that or the measurement at TDC. Nothing is ever easy...

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    I thought TDC would give you the max clearance on the valves? Are you noticing hard starting, etc?

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    No, the bike seems to run fine. I thought the same of TDC. I know for sure that i am at it now too as I did the "straw" test. At TDC the straw is as high in the plug hole as it will get, also the holes and mark on the cam gear line up perfectly (as I mentioned in the first post).

    Again, out of curiosity, I tried checking the clearances with the cam lobes pointing straight down for the intake and then the exhaust. Now I get even different numbers. Exhausts are .006 and intakes are .004. Now I am REALLY confused.

    If I use these measurements, the intakes are fine but now the exhausts are loose. What do I do??!?!?!?

  6. #6
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    Default 690 Valve note:

    The KTM maintenance manual confirms the markings that you are using for the TDC but you may want to fabricate a pointed bolt tool out of a m8 x 125 thread bolt to hold the motor at TDC. KTM sells the "special tool" but it is easily made and will prevent the motor from moving during the valve adjustment. Just find TDC as you have done and after removing the plug/bolt on the left side of the motor, feel the detent through the bolt hole or confirm it with a light and insert the hold-down bolt. DO NOT use this bolt as a hold-down to remove nuts such as the drive sprocket or clutch nut.
    Also, I believe the shim size should be determined at TDC only and not at a variable off-lobe location.
    Hope you're stuffing rags into all of the openings to avoid the "shim" in the crankcase scenario!
    BTW, great photos and thanks for sharing. wayne

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    I do remember reading that some people used the pointed bolts to hold some KTM motors at TDC, but I don't know that it is necessary on the 690. Once the motor is set at TDC, it won't move unless you move the rear wheel. Also, where exactly does the bolt go?

  8. #8
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    Bolt replaces the "plug" bolt shown in the photo. It's the one with the larger head/m8 diameter (10 mm socket head).
    Regarding the neccesity; Perhaps KTM is just saying "this is the location for valve adjustments".

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    Ok, I went ahead and ground down a bolt and threaded it in to hold the motor from turning. I didn't even have to move the rear wheel to get the bolt in the detent. Once in, I confirmed that the wheel would not move and rechecked clearances. Still came up with .102 for the exhausts and .076 and .051 for the left and right intakes, respectively. Going to go ahead and order the necessary shims. Thanks!

    DRxDR, any comments on the fact that there are no washers on my rocker arm shaft bolts? The engine diagrams show that there should be some there, but I'll be damned if I can find any.

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    I just wanted to commend you on your desire to share all this with the rest of us smc'ers. I realize that it helps you to get more opinions, but everyone benefits from the great pics and step by step instructions...nice job.
    (5000 miles on mine so far and loving it)
    rideout

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    Thanks! I have searched high and low for pictorials for the 690 valve check/adjust and came up with nothing so I figured "what the hell...". I mean, it couldn't be THAT much different than other KTMs or other bikes for that matter. I'll try and snap a few more pics of the shim change once I get the new shims.

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    IIRC, The washers that you are referring to are for shimming purposes and if the tolerances are OK, then they are not required.
    BTW, my valve clearance's were all at .004 except the right exhaust which had opened to only .0045 but are probably in need of another inspection. That first measurement was at about 2500 miles and I'm currently at 6500 miles. Definitely time for another look.
    Also: You may consider removing the SAS system, since, as you may have noticed is a pain in the arse to disconnect each time. A simple resistor placed within the harness also allows removal of the air-valve, similar to the procedure used to eliminate the canister air-valve. If your catalytic exhaust has been replaced then the SAS is useless anyway but many owners prefer to not mess with the factory systems.
    wayne

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    It seems a lot of the 690s have needed no adjustments on either the 600 mile check or at even 3000 miles. I'm kind of surprised the mine does. Oh well, no big deal to change out the shims. As for the washers, why would the rocker arm shaft bolts need to be shimmed? Just curious.

    I had thought about removing the SAS system, but decided against it until KTM sorts the FI issues. I don't want anything to invalidate the warranty until the bike is running the way it should.

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    Called a local HD dealer today and they have the V-Rod 10mm shims in stock so I'll be picking them up. I'll be curious to see if there's any difference once I get her all buttoned back up and running.

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    Ended up having to order the shims from the KTM dealer as the HD dealer didn't actually have them. Oh well. Anyway got them today and found that my math was WAY off. Turns out I just need 2 2.50 shims and that will take care of it. Thanks to the dealer for letting me borrow a few 9.48's to measure with. <- No, I didn't try to start the bike or anything with these ones. Got to order a few more now.

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    The valves are usually set tight on a brand new motor assuming they will wear in a little and loosen up. Tight is better than loose otherwise the valve might start hitting the piston. Yours probably just didn't wear that much. I bet that if you rode it that way until the next service it would probably fall into spec., 600 miles is not a lot of break in time.
    The locking bolt is usually only necessary if your removing the cam from the timing chain. That way the bottom end does not move without the valve train. I just had to replace the cam on my 625 When at TDC the valves should be at their loosest, anything looser should not be possible(on a single). I have a 4 year old, I always take the bike out of gear after I find TDC. Using the plug is a good double check and I suppose putting the locking bolt in couldn't hurt, unless you forget to take it out, however once you get comfy with the straw or your visual ref. on the cam it's probably just extra time.
    The shims in various thicknesses are for lateral play, something you can only find in a service manual or when you get it figured out and update everyone with this great post. I checked mine when I replaced the cam and intake roller then shimmed as necessary to put it back in spec. That definitely quieted things down up there. If you look at it like, if you could move this rocker over here or there you can see that the rockers will start hitting things that they are not supposed to. The more lateral play the more quickly things will start to wear.

    Anyway just my 2c.

    You have done a fantastic job on photos and documentation. Once you answer all of your questions and refine the process you should be able to get it stickied. Something that is definitely needed for the 690's. If you haven't already check out "Creepers" guide to adjusting the lc4 valves. His instructions are posted over on KTMtalk and ADVrider. Maybe even here?
    ~Tim

    "04 625 SXC
    '04 625 SMC 76,xxx mi.
    '97 CR500 SOLD

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    Thanks Tim! I picked up some shims from an HD dealer today so I plan to try to get some more pics and get everything set. Glad to help out, I just love this bike!

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    Quote Originally Posted by tdreyer View Post
    The valves are usually set tight on a brand new motor assuming they will wear in a little and loosen up. Tight is better than loose otherwise the valve might start hitting the piston. Yours probably just didn't wear that much.
    Valves tighten up as they wear in not loosen up, so the factory sets them loose, and you are more likely to hit a piston with a tight valve than a loose one. They tighten up as they wear because either the valve starts to streach or the valve set wears a little causeing the valve to move up towards the cam which in return tightens the valve.
    R.I.P. Jeremy Lusk
    Scott
    -08 690 SMC
    -04 CRF450R

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    FYI: Valves still remaining within spec at 6,500 miles.
    LE=.004" / RE=.0045" LI=.004" / RI=.0035"
    I'm impressed that they remain within .001" after 6,500 miles. wayne


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    /\ Excellent news!!

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    Lowercase, I cant see the pics? dont know why?

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    I could have sworn my manual said the first valve check was at 6200 miles.

    Is that not correct?
    2008 KTM 690 SMC, MX-Tech suspension, full FMF exhaust, DNA filter and modified airbox, Tune ECU, tubeless tire conversion w/ Michelin Power Pures.

    2008 KTM 300SX (started life as a 250SX).

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    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    I could have sworn my manual said the first valve check was at 6200 miles.

    Is that not correct?
    That's what I was thinking. 600 mile valve check?
    2009 KTM 690 SMC (Urban Assault.....Like a fun girlfriend.)
    2006 Honda CRF 450R (Dirty Bidness.......She's a hoe!)

    2008 WR 2-Fiddy X ------Sold--------

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    Great thread, I need to do mine in the very near future. :thumbsup:
    Remembering #93 Stacy Summers, 1972--2011

    sweat, don't bleed.
    --rrp

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    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    I could have sworn my manual said the first valve check was at 6200 miles.

    Is that not correct?
    yea 6k,
    i will bookmark this even though it will go into the shop, it's cool to see the pics

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    Thanks great write up .

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    What are the letters stamped into the head near the rocker shafts, for Lowercase's pic they are G & F, and for DRxDR the are H & E??? (thanks for the pics both of you!)
    Last edited by Morpheous; 04-26-2010 at 10:34 AM.
    2010 Duke 690 (1500mi) For Sale!
    2008 Duke 690 (26,000mi) Sold 8/11

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by lowercasee View Post
    Since the weather is going to be crappy for at least another week, I figured it was time to do the 600 mile valve check on the 690. I removed the 2 front side fairings, the voltage regulator on the right (for access to the right airbox bolt) and the air box.

    To remove the airbox, you need to first remove the lid as well as the 4 screws that hold it in place (2 front, 2 back). You should be able to hold the voltage regulator aside to get to the right front bolt. Next, disconnect the 2 or 3 hoses that are connected to the air and the electronic sensor. Once that is done, just loosen the clamp where the air boot connects to the throttle body. You should be able to work it off pretty easily. Now you have the cylinder head cover expose. There are 2 hoses that connect into a metal dealie on the top, unclamp and remove them. There is also an electrical connector that kind of lays on top of the head cover, it helps to disconnect this. You can remove the spark plug while you are at it. I found the tools that came with the bike the easiest to use to do this. Here's a few pics of the plug. Certainly looks lean to me:




    Now simply remove the 4 bolts that hold the head cover on. You might have to wiggle the head cover a bit to get it loose, but it should come off pretty easily.

    Now you have the valve drive exposed and it's time to find TDC. To do this, I had the bike on a stand and put it in top gear. Roll the wheel forward until the valves close after the compression stroke. There also appears to be a way to identify TDC by looking at the cam. There is a line engraved on the backside of the cam gear that appears to line up with a bolt at the top of the head right after the valves close on compression stoke. Not only that, but the 2 outside holes on the cam gear line up perfectly with the rocker arm shaft removal holes (as seen in the first pic below. That way, you can remove the rocker arms without removing the cam. Can anyone confirm is if this method of the little mark lining up and the rocker arm shaft removal holes lining up is TDC?

    Here are some pics.




    Assuming that I am at TDC, I went ahead an measured the clearances. There is a label on the frame that gives the valve clearance specs. Both intake and exhaust appear to use the same specs which are .07mm - .13mm (approx. .003in - .005in). Can someome verify if this is the case?. Here's a pic (had to read it with a small mirror, then use photoshop to "reverse" it for pic):



    Anyway, here are my numbers (valve orientation as if sitting on bike):

    Exhaust
    LFr = .102 (.004) - dead center
    RFr = .102 (.004) - dead center

    Intake
    LRr = .076 (.003) shim= .255 - slightly tight
    RRr = .051 (.002) shim= .260 - slightly tighter

    So my intakes are on the tight side, time to check the shims. Remove the 2 bolts that hold the rocker arm shaft in place (circled in pic):



    Here is a side shot of the intake valves:



    Remember how the cam gear holes line up with the rocker arm shaft removal holes? I now took the longer rocker arm shaft bolt and, going through the right hole on the cam, threaded it into the rocker arm shaft a few turns. Next, simply pull out the shaft and you can remove the rocker arm. I removed each shim with a magnet and measured them with a digital caliper and got the numbers I listed above. There were printed numbers on the shims, but all I could read was the first and last numbers: 2 and 5 on the LRr shim, and 2 and 0 on the RRr shim. The digital caliper read 2.54 on the RRr shim and 2.61 on the LRr shim so I came to the conclusion that they are 2.55 and 2.60 shims based on the KTM part numbers.

    If my math is correct, I will need the following shims now for my intake valves:

    LRr 2.30 shim should make clearance .102 (.004) center
    RRr 2.10 shim should make clearance .102 (.004) center

    Can someone confirm if this is correct?. If so, I'm going to go ahead and order them from the dealer so I can get back to riding!

    I am new to shim type valve adjusts so I just want to make sure that I am doing it right. SO far, it's really not much harder than the screw adjust type, just some more parts involved.

    Well, I hope that I have done this right and I hope that these pics and write up might help someone else.
    Have you check your roller bearing ? Kind of looks like mine .

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    Yeah, his bearings are all jacked up too. I suspect a bad production run. It'll be interesting so see whether the replacement parts hold up any better.
    Remembering #93 Stacy Summers, 1972--2011

    sweat, don't bleed.
    --rrp

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    Quote Originally Posted by Orangeshirtdude View Post
    Yeah, his bearings are all jacked up too. I suspect a bad production run. It'll be interesting so see whether the replacement parts hold up any better.
    That's what I'm afraid of , just got off the phone with the dealership . Sounds like there going to pay for the part , but my question that I can not get answered is am I getting the same part to put back in ?

  31. #31
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    My bike sold last week. I never had any problems with it though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lowercasee View Post
    My bike sold last week. I never had any problems with it though.
    Good to hear , and by the way that was a excellent write up . Thanks

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    still in spec after 18 000 ks, yeh baby

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    Default Valve Rocker Roller Scoring

    Hi,
    New to this thread and appreciate the help. I just did my 6200 mile valve inspection on my USED Private Sale 2008 690 SMC USA model. I had one exhaust valve that showed a clearance of a SNUG .004 and the 3 other valves were at a SNUG .005, so there was no need to re-shim my valves. Since it was my first time doing the inspection, I took some not so great pictures with my camera in my garage. Please pardon the lousy lighting.
    From the pictures does anyone have any concerns for the way my rocker rollers are wearing and why?

    I was wondering how many owners have valve rocker rollers that have wear the
    1) About the same as mine?
    2) Worse scoring than mine?
    3) or No visible scoring at all?

    Is there some sort of recall where KTM USA is voluntarily replacing out of warranty scored rollers (including parts and labor etc...? seeing as there was a mention of a bad run of rocker rollers?

    If I show my pictures, what is the likelyhood that KTM USA would suggest that these rocker rollers should be replaced?

    If my local KTM dealer who should I speak to at KTM USA Corporate?
    Any contact and phone number would be appreciated. Thanks

    Well Thanks so much for your help with my questions.
    All the Best!
    Mike
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    I thought it would be easier seeing with a full size picture, so here we go.
    Thanks again.
    Mike
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    I'm doing mine now, the exhaust rocker bearing looks fine, but the intake is scored. It's not horrible though. I noticed light scoring on the cam intake lobe too. My valves are tight at 12K miles, and I'll need to put other shims in just to get a measurement since the clearances are all < 0.063 (my smallest blade). I anticipated this, and I think having the valvle clearances tighten up too much is probably behind the scoring on the rollers and lobes.
    Remembering #93 Stacy Summers, 1972--2011

    sweat, don't bleed.
    --rrp

  37. #37
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    Dumb question, but I've never actually done a valve adjustment before. Are shims standard diameter? Can I expect to get the right size shims from a friend or a shop? Wholigan has a box of shims, and I'm wondering if I can grab some from him and then order replacements.
    Remembering #93 Stacy Summers, 1972--2011

    sweat, don't bleed.
    --rrp

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    Thanks OSDude for your reply. I am trying to get a feeling from any members that have done inspections of wheter this is considered normal or should there be NO scroing at all. Please does anyone else have experience with this subject and or pictures. Would a dealership vies these pictures and think that it is or will be a problem or should I just continue using Motorex 10w60 and not concern myself with what I can see. I can't feel scoring with my fingernail. I will send the pics to a couple of dealers to get their opinions.
    Thanks again in advance for any help with this topic.
    All the Best!
    Mike

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    Unfortunately there isn't a standard size for shims. I think the main thing you need to worry about is the shim's diameter. When I did my valve adjustment last year I had to change one of the exhaust shims. The Harley V-Rod has the same diameter shims as the 690, but I went to a dealer ship and they didn't have the thickness I needed. I needed a 2.90 mm shim and Harley didn't make shims thick enough. I ended up just ordering the one shim online from ktm-parts. I've got a 2.96mm shim (the one I swapped out) if you need it. I'm in Fairfax.

    han

  40. #40
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    Nice, I may be in touch, sffish. This could end up taking me out of the bronson 200 tomorrow. I'll check with JT motorsports up in Frederick too.
    Remembering #93 Stacy Summers, 1972--2011

    sweat, don't bleed.
    --rrp

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    was there any particular sounds that indicated the rocker bearings were failing?

    I have this "sounds when I'm off the throttle at slower speeds, kinda sounds like CS and Chain noise to me but? Think I should be worried?
    2009 KTM 690 SMC
    1986 Yamaha Radian YX600 (Sold)
    1986 Yamaha DT200 (Sold)

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    It was getting noisy. My valve clearances are out of spec though. Cam chain tension seems ok.

    I'm an idiot for not ordering a shim kit, but dodge131 is gonna rescue me with his. I'm placing an order today though for next time.
    Remembering #93 Stacy Summers, 1972--2011

    sweat, don't bleed.
    --rrp

  43. #43
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    San Luis Obispo, Calif
    Posts
    154

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    Mike: The scoring on your rocker bearings looks much worse then mine at double your milage. You should check for smoothness by rolling the bearing with your finger while it is off the cam and also check for any side-play. Also, if the bearings are going out the valve clearance will increase and you may start to hear more valve train noise as others here have noted. Any chatter marks on the bearings is also an indication of failure. Is the cam lobe showing similar wear pattern?

  44. #44
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    5

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    Drx,
    Sorry, I closed the valve cover a few days ago. I didn't feel anything with my fingernail on the lobe and it was hard seeing the cams themselves but I suspect that these llight marks will be similar on the can. I will be sending the pictures to a dealership or 2 in the weeks ahead to hear their input.
    Thanks for your input.

  45. #45
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Flat land Florida
    Posts
    2,823

  46. #46
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Silver Spring, MD
    Posts
    1,393

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    So my exhaust valves turned out to still be in spec at 12,400 miles. However, the intake valves were tight so I replaced 2.6 mm shims with 2.5 mm shims and also put a new rocker arm in for the intake. I'll post a photo of the roller on the old intake rocker. The existing exhaust rocker roller looked fine. I buttoned it up last night around midnight and did the bronson 200 ride with JBanning and the gang today, and everything was fine. Next time I check the valves, it'll be a piece of cake. Thanks dodge131 for letting me borrow a hot cams 10mm shim kit. I owe you a couple 2.5mm shimmies because now you're out!
    Remembering #93 Stacy Summers, 1972--2011

    sweat, don't bleed.
    --rrp

  47. #47
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Orangeshirtdude View Post
    So my exhaust valves turned out to still be in spec at 12,400 miles. However, the intake valves were tight so I replaced 2.6 mm shims with 2.5 mm shims and also put a new rocker arm in for the intake.
    So the new and old rocker arms were close enough dimensionally that there was no difference in the valve clearance values? The bike just rolled over 10k so I'm going to check the valves later in the year. If I see any scoring I'll probably replace the rocker arms, but I'm worried the new one will be slightly different dimensionally thus changing the valve clearance values. I'd like to do just one order for the rocker arm and any shims I need. Thanks.

    han

  48. #48
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Silver Spring, MD
    Posts
    1,393

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    I have the new exhaust rocker in a box because I decided not to swap it in for the old one since the old one looked fine. I'm sure had I put the new rocker in I would have needed slightly thinner shims on the exhaust valves. So the bottom line for the exhaust valves is 12,400 miles and still in spec!

    On my intake, there were 2.6mm shims from the factory, and I put in 2.5mm shims this time. That gave me 0.12mm clearance between the rocker arm and the shims. The problem is that you won't know what you need, if anything, until you are in there looking. My advice is to order the hot cams shim set since it sounds like you will be doing your own checks in the future. The other alternative is to find out what you need and then order the shims, if you are on a very tight budget. Obviously the bike will be down during that time you wait for new shims. I'm too impatient for that so I go with the set.

    http://www.hotcamsinc.com/index.cfm

    Their website sucks the big dong so you should call them or get the kit from another vendor. You need 10mm O.D. shims for the 690 engines.
    Remembering #93 Stacy Summers, 1972--2011

    sweat, don't bleed.
    --rrp

  49. #49
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    5

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    I hear ya,
    It is great having a resource to discuss this possible issue although it would be great to get POLL on the percentage of bikes that show rocker wear to use as information for KTM USA?
    Do you think that if a dealer sees these pictures they would say that there should not be wear marks on the rollers or the cams? If they say that it is not normal then why would KTMUSA NOT pick up a complete replacement of the ill manufactured Rocker assemblies and cam if needed? I mean the owners manual says to inspect valves at 10KM, it does not say to replace Rocker Assemblies and a cam. Is there a thread where someone on this group or any group for that matter brought this problem to the attention of KTM USA and what was their response to this wear?
    Do you think I can leave my rockers until my next check at 12K Miles?
    Also what are the approx costs of a rocker assembly (rt or left)?
    What is the cost of the cam assembly?
    Shim cost per shim?
    Thanks again

    Thanks

  50. #50
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Silver Spring, MD
    Posts
    1,393

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    I'm pretty sure the manual says every 6K miles for valve clearance checks. At any rate, the shim kit will cost around $70 I think. You don't need a cam unless you want to put a duke cam in there. I'm gonna try the duke cam next time, in fact. New rockers are around $60. Just take photos, save your receipts, try to document it with a shop. I'll post a thread about this and include a poll. I think pretty much everyone sees this happening on the rocker roller bearings. I know of at least one sure case of top end failure at around 17K miles, precisely due to rocker arm roller bearing failure.

    I'm pretty sure there is someone on here who posted that he'd exchange shims with people for free or near free. I don't remember what thread it was in though. If you do an advanced search with the keyword "shims" and my username, you'll probably find it.
    Remembering #93 Stacy Summers, 1972--2011

    sweat, don't bleed.
    --rrp

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