Looks like you found the motor buried in the back yard!
So I have a 1984 XL350R that I bought a couple years back. I wanted it as a commuter. I like dual sports. When I got it, it was a wreck. I fixed it until it was rideable, but it has never been pretty. I have ridden it until I don't trust it to get me from here to there anymore. It has a new top end, but the entire chassis is toast. Therefore, I tore it down to the frame in about two hours the other day. Now I am in the predicament of what to do. I don't want to get rid if it. Do I want to tard it? I am on a very limited budget. Half the parts for this bike are discontinued. My frame is bent. I want it off-roadable still. So I plan on keeping this thread going with my process of finding cheap ways to get things done. Things such as spray paint and silicon. Photos will follow all reasonable posts. Any ideas, methods, tricks, or parts suppliers for this bike would be greatly appreciated. Also, if you have something that I need and don't want to make a fortune off it, I might be a buyer. Enjoy.
Here is what I got it to a few years ago in the beginning of our relationship:
and here is the current state of disassembly:
Now I shall clean my frame and start... I don't know where. haha
Here is a link to my Picasa album for full size images and the full album of the rebuild. http://picasaweb.google.com/JoshuaJayG/XL350RProject#
Please, keep us up to date on your progress. Since I too
have an XL350R. I am interested in what you do with it.
There are some pictures of my XL350SMR floating around
SMJ if you want to check them out.
Jeff, So. Cal.
If you want to go cheap run sportsman tires on it. Here's some pictures of my brother's '85 xr350. He has cheap Kenda tires on the stock rims that work surprisingly well on street and in the dirt. If you want a smaller front rim, i'd suggest maybe finding a spare rear rim and lacing it to the front hub. You'd have 18''s front and rear instead of 17''s but, it'd be cheap.
It's not leaking oil, we just changed the clutch and he had the paper under it just in case the seal didn't take.
I am running a rear D606 right now, but we will see whether I sumo it or not.
And yes, the engine looks like it was buried because it was. Mud though, not dirt. I built a rack for the hitch on a vehicle and I ended up in a lot of mud and got the bike covered. Plus, it leaks oil... a lot.
Alright... Here we go. I decided to clean my carbs again because it seemed like when I would go downhill my bike was flooding out so I figured my floats weren't adjusted right. I ripped the two things apart and found that the floats were exactly where I had set them the time before and were just fine. There was a lot of thick, rust looking gunk in the bottoms of the carbs though. I cleaned everything out and put them back together. I am waiting on cleaning the outside of the carbs until I get some solvent in a jug.
Then I went into the engine. My clutch had been slipping and my kickstarter would miss a tooth from time to time. So when I tore it apart I found a fair amount of metal shavings on the bottom of the engine under my screen filter. Not good. They weren't large, they were very small, so I don't think it is from my transmission. When I took my kickstarter shaft off I found this.
I think that most of the shaving are coming from the kickstarter gear rubbing a little.When I cleaned everything and put it back together, it was clearing the case just fine. Then I was checking out the clutch. I found a couple places where this or that was wearing, but nothing excessive. My friction plates were a little crunchy, but in spec and I am not going to replace them right now.
If it starts slipping anymore I will replace the discs. I figure that the slipping was from my clutch cable being so stiff, not so much the plates. I also found some nicks in my inner clutch hub from a plate.
Everything that had a service limit listed in the back of the service manual was within spec so nothing needed replaced.
Now, I know that anyone who has worked on their own bike engine knows that you MUST have such and such special tool to take a certain part off or put it back on, but I don't have them nor will I spend $50+ on a plate with holes in it. So I improvised in tightening my clutch nut back down.
The washer and bolt pulled the clutch plates together and caused the clutch to engage. Then it had to turn the engine over to turn the clutch. I shoved a rag in the gear between the clutch and crankshaft and presto! The clutch doesn't move when I tighten the nut. Now I have to order a couple seals and a gasket before I get to put it back together. The oil seal between the oil pump and the cover for the oil filter was dead so I have to replace that too. I don't want to be losing oil pressure.
Next I will have to replace my shift rod. Some brilliant foe decided to weld the shifter to the shaft.
Now I have to cut it off to get the left side case cover off then replace it. All my oil seals on the engine are getting replaced. NO MORE LEAKS! But I have to find something else to work on in the meantime.
Hey man, I'm not an XL expert by any means, but I wouldn't reuse that inner clutch hub. When they get grooved up like that, the plates tend to hang up on the grooves and wont engage or disengage properly. Rather than putting it all back together then having clutch problems (or a tab breaking off of one of the steels) I'd bite the bullet and replace that hub before going any further. Just some food for thought, take it or leave it. Looks like a fun project
take everything apart, get the big chucks of grease/oil/mud off with a wire brush, and then run it through the dishwasher when your wife isnt home (cases, carbs, covers, cylinder). I've been doing it for years. It works good for an intial cleaning...
07 SMR 510 - SOLD -
To achieve anything in this game you must be prepared to dabble on the boundary of disaster
Indy, I would be kind of concerned about rust. Like on my right side engine cover, I have a bearing in there for my kickstarter. I don't want that bearing to get all rusty. Maybe for aluminum only parts.
And I think I will fill in the groves in the clutch hub with a TIG welder then sand the welds down to be flat and smooth. I know a fellow pilot who does all his own mechanicing on his air tractors and he can TIG pretty well. That's about $80 cheaper then buying a new hub because the hub is $82.
I was looking at the engine pretty close yesterday and I am going to have to split the case to get that shift rod replaced. Dang. At least I will be able to look at the tranny now and see if I have anything in there contributing to my plethora of metal shavings. This project is bound to be a blast. I will put up plenty of photos when I rip it apart and weld on the hub. Both will probably be tomorrow.
you can file down the stepping on the outer basket and hub.
Oh and as a side note, you can use an 18" rear wheel hoop in the front, but correct me if I'm wrong, the rear is 32 spoke holes, the front 28.
Don't chintz out, I know cash is tight. But since you have it apart, might as well do whatever it needs.
I picked up a yz250f off of a mechanic at a local bike shop.
He did such a hack job putting the engine together, I tore it down and started over.
Oh and you can clean bearings with water or parts washer, just make sure to blow them dry and lube them afterwards.
I do this on steel parts too (not bearings of course). Even cylinders with steel liners. As soon as its done washing I take it out right away, dry it, and wipe some oil on the bore before it can rust...
I glass-bead blast most everthing when I have enough time. It makes it look brand new again.
For bearings just wash them in kerosene or just replace if they're questionable...
I've been doing this for years.
07 SMR 510 - SOLD -
To achieve anything in this game you must be prepared to dabble on the boundary of disaster
I got the cases apart and now it is time to clean everything. I will post photos tomorrow because I can't upload them tonight. I would like to powder coat the engine, but they only guy who does it withing 100 mi. is super expensive. I am not pressing the bearings out to clean the cases so I might just have to clean them by hand.
Dont tard that thing, Its so bad ass as a dual sport.
it would be cool. but it looks like you need more of a dirt bike than a corner killer. (all the flat back ground )
And definitely keep us updated with everything. I showed my brother your build, and he is very interested in it, he's always wanted to make some changes to his bike, and is curious as to what you're going to do.
Thanks you too. Yeah, it will always be an XL350. I understand that. I won't be able to sell it for more than $1200 unless it is mint. I am doing this for fun. I am using it to calm nerves and such. No hurry, and no headaches.
Yeah, my terrain is VERY flat.
We have mountains a ways away, but it takes about an hour and a half to get to them. I figure I will keep it a dualsport then. That's why I asked what you guys thought. I wanted some input. Thanks! Photos are uploading. I will have an extensive post later today.
Ok, so I ended with my clutch. It was grooved. It still is and will remain so. And I will use it. This is why...
First, the plates don't reach it in the resting position (while running, the pates may reach the groove). The jug cap is just for scale.
So that led me to ask if the plate would catch or get stuck in the grove if it ventured that far. So I tried. Here's a photo of the result.
The plate dues not get stuck in the groove. It rides too high on the splines to do so. That make me wonder what the groove is really from. The friction discs can't get in the grove either because they are centered around it and don't touch the center hub. I just filed off the edges so that it was smooth and I am certain there won't be any problems. If I had any doubt, I wouldn't have put it back in. I want this done right.
Then it was off the fix that stupid shift rod that was welded on. I had to split the case. So I started from the top and went down.
Obsessive carbon buildup on head:
Same buildup on the piston, plus, the piston is wet. That's not from me while taking it apart either.
I was kind of concerned why I had so much carbon on my head and piston. It hadn't been running that rich in the past when I tore it apart. I started to think about why it happened. Then I thought back to my problems with me riding down hills and it trying to die. This is what I came up with:
That is the cap that screws into my carb and holds my enrichener in. When I took the carbs out, it was broken. The cap separated from the threads so there wasn't anything holding the enrichener closed. My bike had been running enriched the whole time! Not good. So I am going to bust all the carbon off and fix the carb. I bet that will fix both my problems of it trying to die on me and the carbon build up.
Ok, now the cylinder and piston conditions. When I rebuilt the top end, I put a .5mm oversize piston in it (that is all I could find) and I bought a used cylinder that I had bored out to fit the piston. I was very pleased with the condition of the two when I took them apart. The rings were as good as new. The piston had only very minor scratches on it from normal wear and they cylinder was the same. Nice and shiny. The top of the cylinder did have excessive carbon too, but I will take that off with the rest of it.
Good. Now it's time for the other side of the case. The magneto. I didn't have a magneto puller, nor did I have anything to hold it still while I tried to loosen the nut. I didn't know what I was going to do. Turns out, I didn't even need to take the magneto off. The piston is supposed to stay in the left case half when it comes apart. So I took the mag cover off for no reason. It is still good to look inside and clean. Here's the story behind that.
I got most of the bolts out, but two of them were too tough and I stripped out the hex heads and was in trouble. I posted on another thread about ez-outs, but I don't own any. So I had to do what I know best. Improvise. I got my Dremel out and got to work with my reinforced cut off wheel.
I then got out a vise grip and broke it loose. On the other bolt, I tried the same thing, but both sides caved in where I thinned out the sides. I then made a large slot through the center of the bolt, took a small piece of square tubing and a crescent wrench, put the wall of the square tubing thought the slot, and twisted. Presto. Both bolts were out. Then I had to take off the oil pump and primary gear from the right side of the case.
I found a couple pieces of gasket material stuck in the oil pump and oil tubes. I wasn't pleased, but I got them out and I am going to run some high pressure air though all the lines and ports in the engine to make sure I don't have any other pieces still in there. They weren't blocking oil, but that doesn't matter. They might later. That Lakota 300 I worked on a few months back lost oil pressure and destroyed the camshaft before I got to work on it. When I tried to take out the camshaft, it wouldn't come out. After some work, I got it out and noticed that the lobes had been worn down about a quarter inch due to no lubrication. There was a 1/4 inch high lip on the lobe that was catching on a rocker and wouldn't let the shaft slide out. I told the owner to keep it for parts, but not to rebuild it. It was likely that more than just the camshaft was torn up.
Anyway, then I had to cut off my shift lever so I can take the cases apart. Now to take the bolts out that hold the cases together and presto. I took a quick look inside the case first and found something scary. I saw some chunks of metal between two sets of gears side by side on the balancer shaft. So I took the case apart and found this:
It looks to me like a piece of the tappet adjuster that got crunched up before I rebuilt the top end the first time. There are pieces around various parts of the gear, but the gears are not damaged in any way. So I need to take the chunks of metal out and clean it up. I sure am glad they didn't do any damage. That's probably where a lot more of the metal shavings came from that I found in the bottom of the case. Here's what is left of my shift rod.
Left side case.
Right side and transmission.
The manual said that the crankshaft was pressed into the left half of the case, but I have massive end play now since the cases are apart. I don't think it is pressed in. I may find a way to take the mag off and see how things are with the bearing and crank journal on the left side. Anyone know how to take the mag off like it is now? How about busting all the carbon off the head and piston? Cleaner? Wire brush? Wire wheel on my Dremel?
Any suggestions would be great. Oh, and I think I will coat the engine in high heat paint. I have access to paint equipment. I just need to get the paint and prep. What kind of prep should I use on the engine? Any tips or tricks on doing it right and good?
Sweet pictures man...good detail! I say sticky this for other riders.
2006 CRF450X SM White n Black
2006 Honda VFR800 25th
2007 Nissan Titan
I went to Phoenix over Thanksgiving and on the way over, I happened to see a bike frame on the side of the road chained to a fence. I asked the guy in the building next to the bike if he wanted to sell the frame (XR200R) and he informed me that the sub frame was bent. I wasn't too concerned because it wasn't bent much and I might just be able to switch everything over. So he went inside, got the key, unlocked it, and gave it to me. Straight out gave it to me! Here it is:
I can use the rear shock because mine isn't adjustable. I can also use the clutch perch, kickstand, and a couple other things. I don't think I will use the frame. But anything I don't use will go on ebay.
I am now cleaning my engine completely and I still need to get it powder coated. I don't want to paint it. Powder coating will be more durable and will look better. Anyone know someone I can ship my parts to to get coated?
I am SOOO glad you are doing this...........and not me.
Thank you for detailing your project with us. I am enjoying it greatly.
Sorry if this has been plastered all over the place before. But here
is what you have to look forward to when you are finished.
2Storkesm... nice bike. These look decent in Sumo attire. I have been thinking about what kind of color scheme I should trow on. Any ideas?
I figure I should update since I have done something more. I left you guys on my clutch and getting a new frame.
Well, I am not going to use the frame. It is not going to work and I don't feel like trying to refabricate everything since I don't live in a machine shop. I have a 10X10 shed that I share with a literal ton of dog food and some other goodies, so space is limited too. But I will use the rear shock, kickstand, clutch perch, and I think that is it. All the rest of it will be sold on the bay to help pay for my project, plus I don't need another bike frame hanging around.
That said, I have cleaned nearly everything. I don't want to spend $25 on solvent so I used Diesel. While messing around in my shed, the case half with my tranny sitting in it fell over and spread gears all over the sandy floor. I was not enthused. So I put it all back on the table for later. I got a puller to remove my flywheel. After a little research, I found that the puller is 22mm X 1.5. I went to the local parts stores and found NOTHING. No one here carries metric stuff. So I ended up at a semi truck store and got a wheel lug with those dimensions. I took it home, and no luck. Liars! I took it back and got a 20mm X 1.5 and it worked fine. I pulled they flywheel while using a shop rag to stop the gears between the crankshaft and balancer. With the flywheel off, I could get the crankshaft and balancer out. I took the balancer apart (it has two gears that mesh side by side) and cleaned out the metal from that tappet that died. Before I cleaned it out, the gears were warped from all the pressure between them and I was worried that they may stay that way. But I pried out the circlip and took the gears apart.
No, those aren't my hands. I am not that old and hairy. But I cleaned off that metal and it seemed to be fine.
Next, I took a look at all my bearings and noticed that one of them was really rough. After it came out (fell out when I turned the case over) I saw this...
This is the bearing for the countershaft. It is on the INSIDE of the case, not the outside. So I guess it was destroyed before I ever got it. If I remember right, the guy said that he rebuilt the bottom end right before I bought it. So much for that.
Then I started cleaning. I cleaned the balancer before I put it back together, I cleaned all the tranny parts, and the crankshaft/rod. I love diesel. Other than its smell, it is a great solvent and lubricant. So, with everything smelling of a truck, I took it inside the house. Yes, inside the house. My bedroom is a lot cleaner than the shed and I have more room. I put up a small camping table and laid everything out on the table.
Then I had to decide where the gears were going to go. I didn't have much of an idea. I only had a few in the right place. But I got out my manual and got it mostly figured out. After applying a light coat of oil to everything before it went back on (and checking the service limits of EVERYTHING) I put it all back on the shaft. Afterward, I made sure that everything lined up right and it was right! Yay! Then I zip-tied everything together so it wouldn't come apart while I let it set until I got my cases coated and I have no idea when that will happen.
I also noticed a small amount of grooving on my shift drum stopper plate.
So after I sanded those little pieces smooth, I put it in the bag too.
Then I brought in my balancer and crankshaft.
I reassembled the balancer.
Even gears and clean!
Then the crankshaft. I didn't have anything to assemble, just inspect, oil, and bag.
And a very small amount of gouging in my connecting rod on the wrist pin end.
Then I had a look at the cases and noticed that below the crankshaft, there was some cracking and bending. It looks like the tappet found its way below the balancing lobes on the crankshaft and got forced through.
See the small crack and scraping?
And the other side.
Do you see the bending?
Also, I saw some rubbing from the balancer. I wonder why it did that? The deep cut is machined, but there is rubbing beside that.
So the only things that need replaced are the bearing and oil seal. Other than than, it is all fine this time around. I will probably end up replacing the crankshaft bearing while I am at it. I don't trust what that guy said he did. With that, I will leave you with a picture of my case soaking in a bucket of diesel. Oh, and if you want to see many more photos, I have them at http://picasaweb.google.com/joshuajayg/XL350RProject#
Now that's a complete tear down! I'm surprised there wasn't a toothbrush in the pictures.
What are you going to do about the cracks? Weld it, or let it ride?
I wanted to use some of those nice little steel brushes but I have $2.50 in my bank account. I can't afford another bottle of brake cleaner, much less a brush.
Let it ride. It isn't going anywhere. I will make sure nothing is rubbing, then leave it. If I weld it, there will be too much buildup and it will likely get in the way of things.
Ok, I am slightly perturbed. Some moron is playing with me. The bearing that I am replacing on the tranny because the seal is dented, actually shouldn't even be there. It was replaced with a crap bearing. If you look closely, you can see the shoulder that the seal is supposed to sit on on this bearing.
The other side is sealed with a dent in it.
Some moron installed this bearing like that. And there is a small oil vein leading into the bearing housing on the case where the bearing and countershaft are supposed to get lubricated, but that can't happen with a sealed bearing!
Grr. No luck with finding a bearing online. I guess I have odd shaped bearings. The crank bearings are ID: 30mm; OD: 76(.06)mm; W:17.5mm.
Also, I am having second thoughts about not welding the case. It may crack more from the vibrations. I will be taking it to my pilot friend who welds soon to see what he thinks.
My 2 cents. Do it right. Now is not the time to pinch
pennies. You are going to sooo much work with this
project. Don't cut the corners and you will have a bike
you can ride for many years to come.
Best wishes. Jeff
I am not cutting corners on anything. At the same time, I don't have any money. If I can, I will get it welded. I am also looking for bearings. If it needs replaced, it will be. I hate things being done half way. There is no point in something like that. They guy who owned it before me did that and it is aggravating me.
Would it be bad if you ground the purple piece out past the end of the crack then smoothed it out in hopes of stopping the crack from spreading?
sweet project! dont listen to all the naysayers... Dual-Carbs RULE!
my '85 XL250R
Im running an XL350R primary carb with an XR 350R secondary that Ive massaged a bit and the float bowls from and XR500R set (they make jet changes a breeze)
good luck with yours, Ive been looking for a 350R for years now.
/ / / / /
Sweet bike apex. It is mint! I heard that if I was to set the secondary carb back a little so it kicks in later, I would get better performance. Have you heard anything like that? I need to get all my parts bead blasted so they look all nice and shiny like yours There is actually a guy in my town of 1500 that does it.
I need color ideas! I am horrible at this and I don't want it to be the ugly stock colors. Maybe a black frame, black engine, red engine covers, black forks, black swing arm, red rims. How would that work? I need ideas.
that rod looks toasted...
the wrist pin bearing starved for oil and turned the rod blue-purple like that...
07 SMR 510 - SOLD -
To achieve anything in this game you must be prepared to dabble on the boundary of disaster
No, actually it is seems to be a heat treated rod. If the wrist pin was to get that hot, it would have frozen up, not just changed the color that much. I don't think the heat could reach that far down if it was from the wrist pin. Plus, there is not wrist pin bearing. It is just like that. Correcting me if I am wrong, but That doesn't seem to be what happened.
I've had cranks starve for oil before and turn rods purple, good point about how far its gone down the rod, I guess I've never seen one go that far. I see it more on two-stroke snowmobiles that come in for service that someone either ran out of oil, or had an oil pump failure. Normally its turning purple from both ends.
The wrist pin would at least show some major wear if it were to get that hot.
And of course, no wrist pin bearing on these... I work on too many 2-strokes (if thats possible )
To achieve anything in this game you must be prepared to dabble on the boundary of disaster
I'am actually in the process of rebuilding one as well mine is the 1986 with the white frame/tank/plastics and wiht a red engine IT LOOKS REAL SHARP kinda like the XL600's does anyone know anythign about those really rare white XL's when ever you go to get parts I get told that there is no stuch thing as a 86XL350 that is white no less. I also have a 85 red one Just wondering a few things one is when you took the balancer out what is the correct timing on the gear to the crank gear is there marks or not, I'm not sure if mine is 100% my dad and I took it apart about 6 years and many KM ago to do crank bearings and he put it back together now that I;m a small engine mechanic my self I;m very fussy about how things are put together and work. In none of my horrible clymer books does it actually tell you how to do it. as for the bluing of the rod that is normal, I saw in one of the pics there its kinda hard to see but looks like you timing chain has been riding into the tensioner guide a bit I would recommend replacing those if it is infact worn. I had one come apart on me its not fun it fills the engine wiht 1/2 long chunks of plastic which are not easy to get out not to mention the damage that could be done to a chain if its not already worn out. As for the ignition point of things on the end of the crank there is the tab for the pickup coil it has a number on it would that be some thing to do wiht the number of degrees BTDC you get ignition??
I am still alive! I just don't have any funding right now. Wal-Mart doesn't pay the best wages, but I am blessed to have a job when a lot of people are losing theirs.
Anyway, Daniel, as for having an '86 XL350R, I must say I only know of them being sold as '84 and '85 models. However, they were sold for many, many years after in countries other than the ole USofA. It is likely not an American bike.
The balancer and ignition tab thing, I will have to answer those questions later. It is dark and I don't feel like venturing out into the shed at this time. I will let you know the answers here in a day or two. As for the cam chain tensioner, I don't think it is worn too bad. Thanks for the heads up though, I will take a closer look.
I keep seeing all my parts laying in a pile in my shed and I keep wondering how much stuff I am forgetting or losing in this time gap. I hope to be working on it again soon. But other purchases are taking over my funds, such as firearms, ammunition, camera, tires, flight time, and so on. I hope to update you all again soon.
I just received a 80-something XL350R for free, your thread is exactly what I am getting myself into. Doing it all on a budget!
Is there any way to tell what year my bike is, it would narrow down the parts I am searching for?
The previous owner had it fully submerged after a mishap riding it through a river when it he hit a hole that was much, much deeper than the rest of the path across the river, the bike was a submarine!
XL350 for free? Nice. They also made the XL350 (no "R" at the end) for a few years in the seventies, but they were dual shock, heavier, uglier bikes. If you look at my very first post on this thread, you will see my VIN plate in the picture with just the frame. The VIN plate is located on the neck of the frame where the steering bearings rest and the forks attach to the rest of the bike. The VIN plate will have the year of the bike on it (probably in big numbers.) Plus, from what I understand, the '84 and '85 350Rs should be just nearly the exact same bike, if not identical.
They aren't supposed to be used as submarines. Their snorkel tube is only an inch high
Thanks for the tip, after a bit of wiping it is indeed a 1984 model year.
Sounds like a great challenge... Keep up the posts...
It's actually not that bad, save for the engine which is half disassembled. There are more parts here and the bike is in better overall condition than some bikes I have paid money for!!
The cylinder head is smooth and shiny, no gouges in the walls!
The headlamp is long gone, but all four signals are intact, but they too are not currently installed on the bike. I am in the hunt for a new headlamp, I may try to make this bike streetable again.
The front caliper is siezed, it makes moving the bike a little tough but without the engine on the frame it is an easy lift.
I will post some pictures of what I am working with here, have you found any good sources for parts online? I have checked ebay and found a good selection of parts, but I am still not sure what I will need!
I'm trying some thing a little new here I would like to get a little more speed out of the old XL so I;m getting (on order as we speak) a 36 tooth sprocket and machening out the center and drilling holes along wiht end facing because industrial sprockets only come in even sutch a #50 chain and its cheap too 20 cdn for a sprocket and about 30 to do the machening!! I did a quick math I;m expecting to get another 9KMH out of this thing at a givin' rpm which will really help with daily driving around. Question has anyone ever tryed to repaint one of the old engines with new heat paint does it actually sick or will I be asking for a curtastrophie tho the cylender has 12% paint left on it now what can I loose and how hot would one think the operating temp could get up to on one of our engines?? I was down in the basement looking at the bike tongiht kinda thinking on a compleate restoration pain;t work. up the list here is a few nice pics of bikes how mutch work is it to go to 17 inch front rims vs cost is it real pricy any real problems I might incounter I kinda falling in love with buddys 85 wiht the Excel rims on it
Here are some of the pictures of the engine from the bike I was given.
Everything seems to be here, the rust in the cylinder is only surface and comes right off with a touch of the finger. The white stuff on the crank looks to be a result of the oil/water mixture that took place when the bike was sunk.
If anyone spots anything I am missing, please point it out so I can order replacement parts! I have a boatload of nuts and bolts here too.
Is a .pdf version of the shop manual available anywhere online? I am finding the printed version is selling for more than a complete engine!
More pictures to follow....
You miiiight have some luck here: http://supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?t=77846
Not sure if it has your bike. The one I got has exploded views etc...
1998 yamaha wr400
"shes got a tat on her tit and wears low cut shirts... it looks like to pigs crawled up her shirt and are fighting over a corn cob."
Josh man, awesome build.
But I do gotta say this.
Please don't put the lower end back together without replacing the circlips on the mainshaft and the countershaft.
You'll be asking for trouble if you do.
No luck with a shop manual from that site, does anyone have a source for this manual at a REASONABLE price? Chapters.ca lists a used copy for $110!
Ooo! I can answer this one! Bikebandit is my friend. http://www.bikebandit.com/manuals/c/a642315?mg=8092&t=1 Clymer. $28. Now, if you are looking for the Service Honda Manual, you might try ebay. The Clymer has treated me pretty well so far. Sometimes you have to read between the lines to figure things out, but it is pretty good.
Sorry about not answering other questions that have been sent my way. It has usually been cold and dark outside when I get home after work and my shop isn't heated or lit well. Maybe I can answer some pending questions on Monday from you all, my kind readers.
Ok, so I went out this afternoon and took a look at the things you all were asking me. Daniel... the tab on the end of the crank. I do not know what the number means. Mine says "20", but that shouldn't mean how far it is from BDC. 20 degrees off would be quite a bit. My chain hasn't been rubbing on the guides too much. The photo just made it look like that. I was probably the oil that gave it a bad color. The balancer lines up to the gear on the crank with a two small groves. The crank has a groove on the end of the tooth.
The balancer has the groove in the valley (in between two teeth.)
Just mate the two together and it should be good.
On the other hand, when you take the balancer apart and put it back together, be sure to put mate the two balancer gears together correctly. These two are the ones that I had chunks of metal stuck in between. If you do it backwards, your balancer will conflict with the crank and your engine won't be able to turn over. There are two grooves on the inside gear and one on the outside (the same one that matches with the crank.)
If you put them both on the same side, it will line up fine. Just realize, your teeth will be offset on the balancer and when you mate it to the crank, you will have to rest those two teeth on the inside gear on either side of the groove on the crank.
I don't know how the sprocket will affect speed. The bike won't red-line in fifth anyway, so I am not sure you will get anymore speed. But you can try it and let me know.
These engines won't get much more than mid 200s, I don't think. I have seen a lot of 400 degree spray paint for sale in hardware stores. That should work fine if you want to paint your engine.
Circlips? They didn't show any wear. Depending on availability and cost, I might just replace them though.
Hope you all enjoy or 350s. Let's make them look pretty!
Last edited by joshuajayg; 03-14-2009 at 08:19 PM. Reason: Fixed images. I forgot how to post pictures!