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Thread: A HOW TO : 610 Cam Chain Replacement

  1. #151
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    May 2011
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    cool, thanks! Is that pretty much the same for most model?? Im lookin at either the 510 or 610. I have seen videos and they look crazy fast especially compared to my little one! lol Thanks alot!

  2. #152
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    Jul 2010
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    14,907 miles, 11 clicks out (specified replacement point). I was at four clicks out at 9800 miles. It went fast. The only difference in my riding is the addition of a 40 mile per day commute down the highway. Hmm...

    08 TC450, 07 SM610
    93 WXC360, 84 CR250
    77 360WR, 76 360CR
    a GSXR, a YZ, a couple CBR's
    and a couple Harleys

  3. #153
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    how did you remove the nut infront of the flywheel? my penny just crumbled once i attempted to pop that nut
    -HUSQVARNA-

  4. #154
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    Impact gun worked for me ....

  5. #155
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    You can use the Motion Pro Gear Jammer.

    http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/..._locking_tool/
    2008 Husqvarna SM610

  6. #156
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    I used a short piece of 3/8" copper tube, scrap from installing a sink.
    Flattened an end and then bent it in to a "V", viewed from the end.
    It deformed very nicely to the gears and came out in one piece.
    It was free and available when I needed it.
    Nunquam cum asino ambige.
    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
    2006 610sm
    past tense: '00 Super Sherpa;'86;CB700SC; '84 FT500; '82 MB5; '78 SR500; '72 CB500; '67 S90

  7. #157
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    Air gun popped it right off, no problem. now i need to finr a hex to fit the cam bolt, and a socket big enough to hold on to the balancer with
    -HUSQVARNA-

  8. #158
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    Regarding the hex for the cam bolts. Use a new allen key. Several members have attempted to use used ones and have stripped the head, and that cannot be fun to deal with. Do yourself a favor a buy a new one that fits on your socket wrench.
    2008 Husqvarna SM610

  9. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by Circus View Post
    Regarding the hex for the cam bolts. Use a new allen key. Several members have attempted to use used ones and have stripped the head, and that cannot be fun to deal with. Do yourself a favor a buy a new one that fits on your socket wrench.
    Do you know what size this allen is? also what size is the nut on the balance shaft?
    -HUSQVARNA-

  10. #160
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    The allen is 5mm. I am not sure which one is the balance shaft but if it's the big one on the (riders) right side that you attempted to jam with a penny, then that one is 38mm.
    2008 Husqvarna SM610

  11. #161
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    I bought probably the best supermoto ever made - husky 610 08 Because the speedo was reseted? or maby replaced it had 1200km wehn i bought it. Now it has 1800km and it is winter time. Because exhaust valves cover was leaking oil i started to tear down everything...i have to make shure everithing is OK My cam chain has 8 clicks. Since i am checking valve clerance, gaskets,cleaning everithing up... and everithing si apart i will change chain too. Valves cover will be painted red, just as clutch and ignition covers! This article is just beautiful. Probably better than repair manual!

    Greetings from Slovenia, Europe! Luke
    Husqvarna SM 610 ´08

  12. #162
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    Im Doing a cam chain for a friend right now, his tensioner was 15 clicks out
    -HUSQVARNA-

  13. #163
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    How many clicks does it have when its brand new?

    Service manual tells you that cam chain should be replaced when there are 10 clicks!
    Husqvarna SM 610 ´08

  14. #164
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    I think in the range of 4-6. I replaced mine recently and then checked it, and was surprised to find the brand new cam chain at 6 clicks.
    2008 Husqvarna SM610

  15. #165
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    thanks for the help
    -HUSQVARNA-

  16. #166
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    Question.

    The timing mark on the cam gear, is that actually on a tooth, or does it split 2 teeth? cause mine splits 2 teeth, and i can't quite get it to sit at the case like the picture shows, but my cam lobes are all facing down... so am i correct, or should i try again to get that timing mark at the case?
    -HUSQVARNA-

  17. #167
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    I did mine several months ago, but I recall it was pretty much like the photo from Dirty Hucker. I think you would know it if you are off by an entire tooth. Perhaps you can rotate the crank until you get back to TDC and check both marks again. Is the chain properly seated on the bottom gear?

    Here is a shot from the service manual. Don't think it helps a whole lot but at least you know.

    2008 Husqvarna SM610

  18. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by Circus View Post
    I think in the range of 4-6. I replaced mine recently and then checked it, and was surprised to find the brand new cam chain at 6 clicks.
    So what is your advice? Is it nesesary to replace cam chain at 8 clicks since 6 clicks is brand new?
    Husqvarna SM 610 ´08

  19. #169
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    I changed mine because I also wanted to do a valve adjustment at the same time. Otherwise I would have waited until 9 or 10 clicks. Mine was at 8 clicks at 9000 miles, and I would guess it would have taken another 2000-5000 miles to get to 10 clicks. If you are at eight I would recommend you wait until 9 or 10 clicks.
    2008 Husqvarna SM610

  20. #170
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    Changed my cam chain last weekend. Stripped the bike down and brought it over to the dealer and worked on the bike with him. Bought the bike with a worn chain and the difference is night and day. She runs absolutely buttery smooth now .
    06 Husqvarna SM610 - Converted SM(TC)450RR

  21. #171
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    Jan 2012
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    Default Thanks DH

    i have almost finished mine... gosh the chain was so nakered! it damaged reed valve and its screw! tensioner was up to the end and chain was loose.
    replaced chain and camshaft (water pump mount snapped) and followed Your idea with red paint(painted waterpump cover) also replaced carb breathers for red ones. tomorrow big day. after the covers will dry install and firing up! smashing. hope all will be good...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by gabik; 02-11-2012 at 01:11 PM.

  22. #172
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    can you guys post photos of the mounted bike w/ red covers?

    also, you guys with tensioners with more than 10 clicks that got the reed valve damaged did you replace it or what?

    I need to replace my chain ASAP since I'm at 12 clicks already.. I'll need to buy all the parts overseas so I wanted to know if there are any part not listed that I should also buy just to be safe... (I don't want to start the process and have to wait weeks for a small part)
    Last edited by uaza; 03-13-2012 at 07:11 AM.

  23. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by uaza View Post
    can you guys post photos of the mounted bike w/ red covers?

    also, you guys with tensioners with more than 10 clicks that got the reed valve damaged did you replace it or what?

    I need to replace mine ASAP since I'm at 12 clicks already.. I'll need to buy all the parts overseas so I wanted to know if there's any part not listed that I should also buy just to be safe... (I don't want to start the process thing and have to wait weeks for a small part)
    I´ve got 10 clicks and reed valve is a bit damaged. Ill change just reed valve
    SPACER. All the parts are 100% listed
    Husqvarna SM 610 ´08

  24. #174
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    I have had to replace carbon reed valve plus one screw and also metal protector sleigh on top.
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    Last edited by gabik; 03-13-2012 at 02:12 PM.

  25. #175
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    Default Husqvarna sm 610

    Quote Originally Posted by gabik View Post
    I have had to replace carbon reed valve plus one screw and also metal protector sleigh on top.
    Hello everyone from Europe-Greece!I bought this bike 1 week ago and needs a GOOD service!Gabik how many clicks you were out and make you that damage?I am 15 clicks out and my valves cover is like new just a scratch on it!

  26. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewIoannou View Post
    Hello everyone from Europe-Greece!I bought this bike 1 week ago and needs a GOOD service!Gabik how many clicks you were out and make you that damage?I am 15 clicks out and my valves cover is like new just a scratch on it!
    unfortunatelly it was on same end and chain was loose!!! do not get to this stage - 10 clicks out and replace it!
    cheers

  27. #177
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    Mar 2010
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    Podgorica
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    H Guys
    ....Im now waiting cam chain and will replace it soon as posible,but I will change my piston rings too...
    My sm610 has 14.000km(8.500miles).
    How many miles I have to ride slower for better snaps because new parts(piston rings,cam chain)?
    Thanks
    Husqvarna Sm610 i.e 07

  28. #178
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    After cam chain and piston rings replacement, you should let husky run by itself for few minutes, till rings warm up and fit to clylinder...lets say, warm it up to working temperature and then for cca 100km drive it normaly. There should be no problems. When i do engine overhaul i put cca 1dcl two stroke oil in gas tank, for lover friction...
    Husqvarna SM 610 ´08

  29. #179
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    Hi did you put standard rings or oversized? Cheers

  30. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by gabik View Post
    Hi did you put standard rings or oversized? Cheers
    Standard,Factory Rings...
    Husqvarna Sm610 i.e 07

  31. #181
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    Mar 2012
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    Hello again,today i started the process to change my cam chain.The tensioner was 15 clicks out and the chain was very loose.I bought this bike in this condition and i am doing a full service at this time.I painted the footpegs and the stand black powder coat and the exhaust protectors and engine covers also!I want also to paint rims and swing arm!I will uplod new photos when i'll finish it!Sorry for my English guys!I'm a member from Greece!
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  32. #182
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    Jul 2010
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    Las Cruces, NM, USA
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    Default Awesome job, simple questions

    I've never ripped apart my 610 but I'm having the valves adjusted along with a few other things at a local shop. Do you have to break the cam chain on a 610 to adjust the valves? And what are the valve specs for intake and exhaust? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
    Daniel
    Husqvarna SM 610
    Yamaha YZ450F

  33. #183
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    Jan 2012
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    you dont have to break chain, just take generator rotor off. and valves are 0.05mm each. try to find manual they are easy to download if can not find i will send you pdf one. cheers

  34. #184
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    UK
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    This is a great thread with so much info in it............not that I'm being critical or anything but I think I'm right in saying the OP has got the figure wrong when it comes to the cylinder head nut torque settings (he's quoted 18.4 ft/lbs).

    The manual isn't desperately clear (in text or pictures) but I read it as being 27.5 ft/lbs + 90 degrees This is for the four M10 nuts (two inside the head cover and two on the outside on the rhs as you are sat on the bike).

    The manual does also quote a figure of 18.4 ft/lbs which I think is for the single M8 nut which sits at the front of the cylinder between the two exhaust ports.

  35. #185
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    1

    Default Big Thank you

    That plug you mentioning that acts as a chanel for the water, that's where some engine oil is coming out of mine. Was driving me crazy why oil out of a water hoze. Totally makes sense now. I get on that and change some O rings.

    Check your engine mounts people. The uper gets loose than botom ones could break.



    Quote Originally Posted by dirtyhucker View Post
    MOVING ON...remove this plug that acts as a tunnel for your water to go throught the hollow space your camchain runs through...without removing this your camchain will not be able to be removed... keep in mind i am holding mine the incorect way in the pic, this was for demonstration purposes only. Its supposed to be rotated to be inserted correctly, this will allow the oring so sit over the tube.
    remove the reed valve cover and the valve itself...



    Now remove the cam chain tentioner... center Nut needs to be removed first, than the two 8mm screws can be taken off. CHECK IT! mine was at 7 still, oh well it was getting noisy anyway. The factory reapir manual states : IF YOUR CAMCHAIN IS NOISY OR THE TENTIONER IS AT 10 NOTCHES OUT, REPLACE THE CAM CHAIN.



    OK, now is the fun part. Removing the Cam Gear Bolts. These bad boys are loctited on and it really showed when i was taking them off. HAVE A FRESH ALLEN TOOL!! IF you have an old one with any kind of rounded corners, YOU WILL STRIP OUT THESE BOLTS!! I had to have a wrench on the balancer nut shown in the pict to keep the cam gear from spinning the motor while removing the bolts. Good LUCK!



    CAM CHAIN STRETCH, the one on the left is new and the right is old... lets say 1-2mm is alot of stretch for these badboys.


  36. #186
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    Default Hi need help

    Hello everyone I'm new here,
    Yesterday I changed the oil in mine Husqvarna sm610 (2009) and when I was cleaning the lower oily filter then dropped the exact same goals and one whole little pieces!
    Who will tell me why are they?
    Thank you very much!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  37. #187
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    Default Hi need help

    Hello everyone I'm new here,
    Yesterday I changed the oil in mine Husqvarna sm610 (2009) and when I was cleaning the lower oily filter then dropped the exact same goals and one whole little pieces!
    Who will tell me why are they?
    Thank you very much!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  38. #188
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    Aug 2011
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    Fergus, Ontario
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    Those look like the clutch spring cup washers.

    Remove the right side cover, remove the entire clutch assembly, and look on the back of the clutch assembly for springs, check if there is washers on the end of the springs.

    There is a member on ADV Rider, named Indy Unlimited, he has stronger and thicker washers for sale that you can replace the old ones with.

  39. #189
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    Thanks to all yesterday we disassemble the clutch and this cup washers what was broken it's possible to change only cup washers?
    or better to buy clutch hub complete?
    Thanks
    Attached Images Attached Images

  40. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by Borg View Post
    Those look like the clutch spring cup washers.

    Remove the right side cover, remove the entire clutch assembly, and look on the back of the clutch assembly for springs, check if there is washers on the end of the springs.

    There is a member on ADV Rider, named Indy Unlimited, he has stronger and thicker washers for sale that you can replace the old ones with.
    please can you give me mail Indy Unlimited, i whant to order this strong cup washers.
    Thanks
    Last edited by semen; 01-13-2014 at 01:25 AM.

  41. #191
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    Mar 2014
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    This has been a very good guide. It's helped me a lot stripping down my engine to change the cam chain. Although I haven't had to take off the clutch cover yet I managed to get my flywheel nut loosened by holding the flywheel with 20inch water pump pliers and then when loosening the 5mm Allen bolts in the cam gear I just put the flywheel but back on the crank shaft and held it with a spanner while I slackened the Allen bolts. Just a couple of questions. Does that water gallery that needs to be removed just pull out? And can I line up the timing by using the markings on the flywheel and cam or do I have to use the markings on the clutch side? Thanks guys.

  42. #192
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    Here is another video that might help you

    http://vimeo.com/2138824

    I am only aware of markings on the clutch side as shown by Dirtyhucker that you use to line up the crank timing to the cam timing.

    Not too sure what you mean about the "water gallery" though . . .?
    2008 Husqvarna SM610

  43. #193
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    this water gallery. Maybe it's called something else. Can't watch the video for some reason. Thanks though

  44. #194
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    It has been a few years since I replaced my cam chain, but I recall that you pull it out. I don't recall it being fastened by anything else. Check out the image below where they show it being removed by using a bent wire to hook the inside of the barrel.

    From the service manual -- the part you are referring to is "spacer (7)" in the paragraph below.

    Disassembly of the water pump body
    Remove five screws (1) (8 mm wrench) retaining the pump housing (2). Remove
    the bushes (6). Remove the pump housing along with the packing (3). Replace
    packing every time the pump is disassembled.
    Remove the nut (4) (8 mm wrench) from the pump impeller (5). Lift away the
    impeller.
    Remove the spacer (7) with ?O? rings (8) from the water pump delivery hole. If
    necessary, use an iron wire piece with a bent end to remove the spacer.


    2008 Husqvarna SM610

  45. #195
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    Since this thread is not in context with Dirtyhucker's original posting, just note that in his image, as he pointed out, he is holding the water tube in the reverse orientation. The image from the shop manual that I posted above is the correct orientation.
    2008 Husqvarna SM610

  46. #196
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    Oct 2012
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    I just got the parts to do this job. It'd be great if you could take some extra pictures of stuff you learned along the way!

  47. #197
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    Thanks circus that's great. I might try and take a few pics when rebuilding to show how I held the flywheel etc for loosening. I never used the penny trick or anything like that.

  48. #198
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    I used this very nicely to jam the gears: http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/..._locking_tool/
    2008 Husqvarna SM610

  49. #199
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    Oct 2012
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    So im halfway through and wow, all I can say is reassembly is gonna suck. Did anyone else have trouble getting clearance to get access to the exhaust header bolts due to the bend in the pipes? The top ones were fine, but I had to take the saw to my #5 Allen to make clearance! WTF.

  50. #200
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    I am not so sure that the headers need to be removed . . . I took mine off when I did my cam chain, but afterwards I recall that I did not really need to take them off.
    2008 Husqvarna SM610

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