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A HOW TO : 610 Cam Chain Replacement

192K views 232 replies 61 participants last post by  salty_monk 
#1 ·
Ok guys i just got a nice little package delivery from Dan at Motoxotica. :bowdown:Last week he told me cam chains were out a month on B/O, the UPS man just dropped one off at my house ten minutes ago...

So heres the start of it,
Paid 166 bucks for the following items listed by part number

800058541 --> Husky Cam Chain $95.95
38010019 --> Motion Pro Flywheel Puller (labeled YFM, 35mm X 1.5mm) R.H.$38.99 unless ya want the one from husky which is around $100
800063644 --> Waterpump Gasket$4.99
161503601 --> Valve cover Gasket x2 $2.99 ea

Ill be doing the work on the bike after i finish this damn summer school. Ill be posting necessary tools, procedure, any little tricks i find along the way and small details i would want my feller 610 riders to know... as well as my typical barrage of pictures for those who just dont want to read my babel.

DELIVERY!!!!!!!!!!!!


To be continued...
 
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#35 ·
First thank you for the incredible detail, could someone post a pic on where the tensioner is in order to check it?

Search yielded no results so if I missed it I'd appreciate if someone could post it, may be a good addition to this post.

Again thanks, great stuff!
 
#37 ·
if you dont know where your cam chain tentioner is than im sorry bud, ive failed this entire thread.

But since youve asked... its just above the starter to the left (in the pic) you wold remove the 10 mm screw in the center first, than unscrew the two 8mm screws that hold the assy. into the case. read the corresponding notches that are on the shaft soming from the body, if its 9 or more you might want to consider replacing that cam chain.:thumbup:


 
#36 ·
And if you were all wondering .... yes it runs, i finished adding all the fluids, re-routing the cables, setting everything strait before the countdown to ignition and it fired right off. Sounds a bit quieter too... though i am still getting that rattle from the carb slide... freaking annoying if you ask me, but hey, whoever says HUMONGOUS amounts of horsepower didnt make any noise? :)690's eat my shorts...:2hard
 
#38 ·
Thanks Dirty...I've only had the bike for a little over a week and have only seen/ridden it 4 times :-( I road race so two race weekends in two weeks haven't allowed me to do much.

Sorry for the dumb question, I'm new to the bike so I figured I'd ask.

Again, great write-up...one of the best I've seen from any forum so hats off to you!
 
#40 ·
i like you jon but you husky guys are bunch of ****.


ktm is a much better bike on many levels...the 690 will smoke a 610....the 625 will do the same.


ITALIANS ARE EFF'n morons that dont know how to engineer a decent motor. how many threads you guys got saying "i almost outta clicker adj" and "why dont my blinkers work". that bike seems to have lots of problems brand spankin new...backfiring on decel straight from the factory. geez what a piece of junk.



















































IM NOT JOKIN :thefinger haha dirty nice pics man :thumbup:
 
#41 ·
wait there tony... last time i checked, your bike had snapped something in its head because you let it sit for a few months... oh yeah! and you still dont even ride your 625 because youve got so much sand in your britches from wallowing around at glamis all the time... Go ride your tw. And dont force the clan to come down on ya for talking smack.

Love- dirty
 
#44 ·
no the bird chirp from the carb is normal... imagine if you took your carb off and shook it, youll hear the slide rattlling around... thats what im hearing and i dont think its normal because theres alot of play in there.

Ill probably pull the carb off of my crf and do the swap, see if that helps...


Hey chris, you get my pm? and you wouldnt have a full size pic of your avitar would ya?
 
#49 ·
It was just recently brought to my attention that as i was making this tutorial... During re-assembly please refrence the manual for the proper water pump torque and i used the new W.P. gasket that dan sent me along with the gasket maker. I didnt want anything to leak
 
#54 ·
great idea
i just did it
top of browser-file-save page as-



great write up dirty, made my work easy as pie
the only thing i would add is you can use a wet wash rag instead of the penny if you want
took me three days to complete the cam chain replacement. but i only had about two hours on it per day,so a total of six . I also took my time and found lots of side things to do as i removed parts,lol

keep this for its a great help for the diy
 
#56 ·
i got a 99 model......doh the cam chain dosnt come with a link.......however i dont understand why u did all that work,,,,,when the new ones have. U change it through the valve cap......nice and clean, Attach the new chain to the link and drag then new chain on with the old one. all timing gets saved. close the link mount the valve cap and ride on.

cheeers
 
#59 ·
dang....

my mechanic says thats the way he do it hes had the import for many years here in denmark so he knows....it makes sence....offcourse if u dont hv a link chain u cant (were in europe here maybe diff models)....but some have i just dunno which.
im gonna get me a did chain myself with a link and put that on, that way i can replace it easily next time. also theres tour max but i dont know about their chains. somewhere else on this site someone wrote about what did chain it was. they come with the link but i dont know if they will fit. but i dont think husqvarna orders custom chains ....as the saved on all the rubber and stuff DAMN ITALIANS... :)
 
#61 · (Edited)
no link chains probably lasts longer but i dont care about changing the dang thing every 7k miles if i can do it that easy .....and they r much cheaper then the stock,,,,as allways they charge for the name. the chain is only 50 bucks here(buy 2 for 1 original u can (yoda style))...l just give it a try i think.

Im gonna call some d.i.d people next week il keep u posted.
they make a 98 chain for sure,,,,it should be the same just with only 100 links, i need 122 ,,,gonna ask for a longer one.

u need a special tool since u have to short the chain urself and link it again but i quess everything comes at a price :)
still its a good investment i think

if we could all solve the issue this way it would be cooooool....unlinked chains r mechanics money making heaven. a thought thr since we live in a capitalist world :).

heres the chain ... note how the husky chain with 100 links: http://viewer.zmags.com/showmag.php?mid=wtdqff#/page156/
have the same number as this 1 with 122 links :http://viewer.zmags.com/showmag.php?mid=wtdqff#/page160/


i just have 1 concern thats the link itself....think il ask for pics from someone who has done it. so im sure il link it well,, loose links in the swamp is ....ehh
but thats what the special tool is for, its only for cam chains i think....
 
#62 ·
so to keep the confusion down... and to keep people on the right track from thinking of EVEN COMPARING a 1999 610 camchain to a 2006 camchain...

99 part # 8000-02124
06 part # 8000- 58541

Please keep the integrity of this thread because people are going to start looking for camchains with master links for their (06+ bikes) if this keeps up.

:headshake:headshake:headshake
 
#63 ·
thx for clarifying...

im just pissed about the issue and im looking for alternatives.
i can see its probably confusing now..sry bout that.

however i dont see how "il keep you posted" can get anyone to run out and experiment. But to clarify things:

INVESTIGATION IS IN PROGRESS!
dont try this at home.


so far:
i checked the issue out today...its only the old models until 96 maybe even til 98 (he couldnt remember) that u can change the chain through the cap on. so its still a valid procedure for those models.So if u have a old model, investigate and check it out yourself,,,now you know its maybe possible on ur bike.


im still gonna investigate exactly what the diff is on these did chains compared to my own 99.
as stated above the 08 is a diff partnumber so my findings wont work on bikes with that part nr.

i start a new thread when i know more.
 
#64 ·
Crud - I forgot about this thread and the picture of the beautifully painted valve cover when I changed out my cam chain this spring.
All in all, this tutorial is VERY good and goes right along with what I did when replacing mine. My CCT was at 9 clicks but the chain wasn't very close to the reed valve screw - I probably could have gone longer but since I had it partial apart anyway, I went the rest of the way and replaced the chain, adjusted the valves, etc to make sure I'm good to go for a while.
Realistically, I won't be replacing another cam chain for 2 years so that's good.
 
#66 ·
No need to drain the oil.

Remove the screw (bolt head) on the end of the tensioner and the spring inside - be careful to not loose the spring.
Remove the tensioner by removing the two bolts holding it to the engine block.
Count the number of teeth showing on the tensioner shaft.

When reinstalling, set the tensioner back to 0 (or 1) click and then bolt the tensioner back onto the engine block. Insert the spring and install the center bolt.
 
#67 ·
Thanks.

It would appear that the CCT backs out, away from the block, as the cam chain wears. I guess I would have expected the CCT to move inward to apply more pressure to the cam chain to take up the slack. How does moving away from the cam chain take up the slack?`
 
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