A HOW TO : 610 Cam Chain Replacement

[dirtyhucker]

[DusterRT]

Can we sticky this one?

You can File - Save Page As to keep a copy of the page on your hard drive. I do this with good how-to's as all too frequently by the time you need it, the pictures are dead...

[dirtyhucker]

You can File - Save Page As to keep a copy of the page on your hard drive. I do this with good how-to's as all too frequently by the time you need it, the pictures are dead...

damn good idea, i never knew that was possible

[greenpea]

great idea
i just did it
top of browser-file-save page as-



great write up dirty, made my work easy as pie
the only thing i would add is you can use a wet wash rag instead of the penny if you want
took me three days to complete the cam chain replacement. but i only had about two hours on it per day,so a total of six . I also took my time and found lots of side things to do as i removed parts,lol

keep this for its a great help for the diy

[Evolrider]

You can File - Save Page As to keep a copy of the page on your hard drive. I do this with good how-to's as all too frequently by the time you need it, the pictures are dead...

Nice call.... it worked.

[Husky_610Te_1999]

i got a 99 model......doh the cam chain dosnt come with a link.......however i dont understand why u did all that work,,,,,when the new ones have. U change it through the valve cap......nice and clean, Attach the new chain to the link and drag then new chain on with the old one. all timing gets saved. close the link mount the valve cap and ride on.

cheeers

[DusterRT]

i got a 99 model......doh the cam chain dosnt come with a link.......however i dont understand why u did all that work,,,,,when the new ones have. U change it through the valve cap......nice and clean, Attach the new chain to the link and drag then new chain on with the old one. all timing gets saved. close the link mount the valve cap and ride on.

cheeers

Err..interesting.

I'll have to take a look at my new chain but I believe the chains for the newer models at least are all riveted..you don't have pics by chance do you?

[WoodsChick]

i got a 99 model......doh the cam chain dosnt come with a link.......however i dont understand why u did all that work,,,,,when the new ones have. U change it through the valve cap......nice and clean, Attach the new chain to the link and drag then new chain on with the old one. all timing gets saved. close the link mount the valve cap and ride on.

cheeers

I'm in the process of replacing my cam chain right now (with your help, dirtyhucker...thanks!) and I can assure you that the new chains don't have a link. Don't know about Husky in particular, but it seems to me that most chains (for streetbikes, anyway) quit having links on them many years ago.



WoodsChick

[Husky_610Te_1999]

my mechanic says thats the way he do it hes had the import for many years here in denmark so he knows....it makes sence....offcourse if u dont hv a link chain u cant (were in europe here maybe diff models)....but some have i just dunno which.
im gonna get me a did chain myself with a link and put that on, that way i can replace it easily next time. also theres tour max but i dont know about their chains. somewhere else on this site someone wrote about what did chain it was. they come with the link but i dont know if they will fit. but i dont think husqvarna orders custom chains ....as the saved on all the rubber and stuff DAMN ITALIANS... :-)

[Husky_610Te_1999]

also check this out.....
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...56429&page=600

[Husky_610Te_1999]

no link chains probably lasts longer but i dont care about changing the dang thing every 7k miles if i can do it that easy .....and they r much cheaper then the stock,,,,as allways they charge for the name. the chain is only 50 bucks here(buy 2 for 1 original u can (yoda style))...l just give it a try i think.

Im gonna call some d.i.d people next week il keep u posted.
they make a 98 chain for sure,,,,it should be the same just with only 100 links, i need 122 ,,,gonna ask for a longer one.

u need a special tool since u have to short the chain urself and link it again but i quess everything comes at a price :-)
still its a good investment i think

if we could all solve the issue this way it would be cooooool....unlinked chains r mechanics money making heaven. a thought thr since we live in a capitalist world :-).

heres the chain ... note how the husky chain with 100 links: http://viewer.zmags.com/showmag.php?...dqff#/page156/
have the same number as this 1 with 122 links :http://viewer.zmags.com/showmag.php?...dqff#/page160/


i just have 1 concern thats the link itself....think il ask for pics from someone who has done it. so im sure il link it well,, loose links in the swamp is ....ehh
but thats what the special tool is for, its only for cam chains i think....

[dirtyhucker]

so to keep the confusion down... and to keep people on the right track from thinking of EVEN COMPARING a 1999 610 camchain to a 2006 camchain...

99 part # 8000-02124
06 part # 8000- 58541

Please keep the integrity of this thread because people are going to start looking for camchains with master links for their (06+ bikes) if this keeps up.

[Husky_610Te_1999]

thx for clarifying...

im just pissed about the issue and im looking for alternatives.
i can see its probably confusing now..sry bout that.

however i dont see how "il keep you posted" can get anyone to run out and experiment. But to clarify things:

INVESTIGATION IS IN PROGRESS!
dont try this at home.


so far:
i checked the issue out today...its only the old models until 96 maybe even til 98 (he couldnt remember) that u can change the chain through the cap on. so its still a valid procedure for those models.So if u have a old model, investigate and check it out yourself,,,now you know its maybe possible on ur bike.


im still gonna investigate exactly what the diff is on these did chains compared to my own 99.
as stated above the 08 is a diff partnumber so my findings wont work on bikes with that part nr.

i start a new thread when i know more.

[hozhead]

Crud - I forgot about this thread and the picture of the beautifully painted valve cover when I changed out my cam chain this spring.
All in all, this tutorial is VERY good and goes right along with what I did when replacing mine. My CCT was at 9 clicks but the chain wasn't very close to the reed valve screw - I probably could have gone longer but since I had it partial apart anyway, I went the rest of the way and replaced the chain, adjusted the valves, etc to make sure I'm good to go for a while.
Realistically, I won't be replacing another cam chain for 2 years so that's good.

[Circus]

A newb question. Do you have to drain the oil to check the clicks? What is the process to check the clicks. Remove the entire CCT?

[hozhead]

No need to drain the oil.

Remove the screw (bolt head) on the end of the tensioner and the spring inside - be careful to not loose the spring.
Remove the tensioner by removing the two bolts holding it to the engine block.
Count the number of teeth showing on the tensioner shaft.

When reinstalling, set the tensioner back to 0 (or 1) click and then bolt the tensioner back onto the engine block. Insert the spring and install the center bolt.

[Circus]

Thanks.

It would appear that the CCT backs out, away from the block, as the cam chain wears. I guess I would have expected the CCT to move inward to apply more pressure to the cam chain to take up the slack. How does moving away from the cam chain take up the slack?`

[restukey]

cct can't back out once it advances, the teeth lock it forward with the pressure of the spring.

Edit: that really wasn't explained well. It advances with spring pressure and teeth lock with whatever you want to call the little locking arm.

[Circus]

Regarding checking the CCT clicks. How do I access the CCT to remove the bolts? I can see it, but it would appear I need to remove the exhaust system.

Any advice would be appreciated.

[MattR]

Regarding checking the CCT clicks. How do I access the CCT to remove the bolts? I can see it, but it would appear I need to remove the exhaust system.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Removing the exhaust is the easiest way to reach it. Or if you have the tank and carb off, then you can access it that way (such as when adjusting the valves).

When removing the exhaust, you only need to remove the midsection and muffler... not the head pipe. First, remove your left side panel. Remove the 2 bolts holding the muffler. Remove any heat shields. Then remove the 2 spring holding the midsection to the header. You can remove the midsection pipe and muffler as a complete assembly. It is very quick when you do it once. This is my preferred method when checking the CCT.

[Circus]

Thanks MattR for the detailed instructions that is exactly what I was looking for. I will give it a try later today.

Any tips or tricks for the springs or pretty straightforward?

[Circus]

I checked my brand new 2008 SM610 for the CCT at 244 miles. See the picture. I would read this as 4 or 5 clicks.

[restukey]

Do you still have the spring in there? Five clicks, btw.

[restukey]

Forgetabout the spring question? I just looked at my old one.

[DusterRT]

So i left off here, all i did was loosen the last two 5mm allen screws, and pulled the top off

Just to add some clarification; those two allen bolts have to COME OUT, not just be loosened. I thought they were set screws or something for the rocker shafts and left them tightened, and spent two hours this evening cursing the blasted thing for seeming to be welded together. I was tapping it with punches, prying with screwdrivers and even busted out my old tire iron out of desperation..took those two bolts out and the thing practically fell off. I'm surprised I didn't break anything!!

[nsx]

I'm about to replace mine. What kind of oil were you using, and what are you going to use now? I don't see how using Mobil 1 could cause these chains to wear prematurely, but I sure don't want to have to do this again. I'll use expensive racing oil if it will help. I ride on the street in the mountains using mainly the midrange. This bike has had an easy life.

[shamanican]

I'm busy doing mine at present. The bike has done 11500km and the chain has started chowing the side of the reed valve cover. The cam chain took five weeks to arrive from Italy (to South Africa) and the price was much reduced. My local dealer says BMW has speeded up the spares ordering process & that they've re-evaluated pricing too, with spares becoming quite a bit cheaper on certain items.

They recommended I change the tensioner too, as the factory recommends it, and the price of chain and tensioner was pretty much what I originally got quoted for the chain only. The flywheel puller is an issue, it seems I'll have to order one via the internet.

As far as oil goes, I ran Castrol Edge 10W60 Full Synthetic (for motor cars) for the past 2000 odd km's, and it became much more difficult to find neutral. I'm now going to try Castrol Power 1 Racing 10W50 Full Synthetic, and will post on the results.

[Flashman]

Just to add some clarification; those two allen bolts have to COME OUT, not just be loosened. I thought they were set screws or something for the rocker shafts and left them tightened, and spent two hours this evening cursing the blasted thing for seeming to be welded together. I was tapping it with punches, prying with screwdrivers and even busted out my old tire iron out of desperation..took those two bolts out and the thing practically fell off. I'm surprised I didn't break anything!!

I took the 8 8mm bolts out and the 2 allen screws but damned if I could get the valve cover of. I hit it with a punch and tried prying with a crows foot - no budgy.

Any hints?

[DusterRT]

I took the 8 8mm bolts out and the 2 allen screws but damned if I could get the valve cover of. I hit it with a punch and tried prying with a crows foot - no budgy.

Any hints?

Hmm...well I no longer have the bike to look at unfortunately, but if all the bolts are out, it shouldn't take much effort to remove. Are there any bolts "hiding" somewhere?

[DAN29600]

Thanx a million for starting this thread & taking good pics!!
I just completed my chain replacement this evening and the computer was in the garage the whole time lol......

[Goosedog]

Got the next few days off work and it's too cold to ride, so here I go with the new cam chain service attempt. Seems easy enough..........................I hope.

[restukey]

It takes about 5 hours wrenching and another 9 hours staring at junx.

[DAN29600]

Got the next few days off work and it's too cold to ride, so here I go with the new cam chain service attempt. Seems easy enough..........................I hope.

Time consuming, could have been worse......

[dirtyhucker]

i pm;d ya back dan... goose good luck.

[Goosedog]

I've decided to go a step further now. Since I'll be into the motor and since no one makes an upgraded piston or cams, I'm gonna send the head off for porting, polishing and new valves seated properly. I might have 'em cut down the head for higher compression too. This won't be an overnight job, I'm gonna take my time all winter and do all kinds of stuff to the bike.

[DAN29600]

I've decided to go a step further now. Since I'll be into the motor and since no one makes an upgraded piston or cams, I'm gonna send the head off for porting, polishing and new valves seated properly. I might have 'em cut down the head for higher compression too. This won't be an overnight job, I'm gonna take my time all winter and do all kinds of stuff to the bike.

Alrighty captain overboard... Seriously though sounds swaeet, where do you think you will send it for the P&P?

http://www.husky.com.au/html/products/parts/parts.htm

[Flashman]

I took the 8 8mm bolts out and the 2 allen screws but damned if I could get the valve cover of. I hit it with a punch and tried prying with a crows foot - no budgy.

Any hints?

There are nine not eight 8mm bolts - one by the oil line was hard to see - covered in gunk.

Any got the chain changed last month - 9000 miles and just starting to hit the reed valve.

About 6 hours of work. - but bike is much quiter now and I fixed my oil leak.

[Circus]

I've decided to go a step further now. Since I'll be into the motor and since no one makes an upgraded piston or cams, I'm gonna send the head off for porting, polishing and new valves seated properly. I might have 'em cut down the head for higher compression too. This won't be an overnight job, I'm gonna take my time all winter and do all kinds of stuff to the bike.

Goosedog, I would really appreciate it if you could show us the various gaskets, sealants / liquid gaskets, loctites, etc., that are needed and where they go -- pictures would be great. I have not had mine apart yet, and so don't really know what is needed.

[Goosedog]

Goosedog, I would really appreciate it if you could show us the various gaskets, sealants / liquid gaskets, loctites, etc., that are needed and where they go -- pictures would be great. I have not had mine apart yet, and so don't really know what is needed.

This is my first time in the motor, my third time ever in any motor, and my manual's a bit unclear on proceedure to boot...but I'll try and post some pics when I get around to the re-assemble.

[DAN29600]

Goosedog, I would really appreciate it if you could show us the various gaskets, sealants / liquid gaskets, loctites, etc., that are needed and where they go -- pictures would be great. I have not had mine apart yet, and so don't really know what is needed.

If you go back to the beginning of this thread all the info. you need is there, including pics etc....Blue lock tite (medium), Gray gasket maker, 1 water pump gasket, 2 valve inspection cover gaskets, Might wanna go ahead and order the left & right side case gaskets as well, 1 Motion pro fly wheel puller(worth it's weight in gold).

Order the cam chain here(In the motor section).... http://www.motosportz.com/HVA-SS/HVA-SS-Home.htm

Motion Pro fly wheel puller.....http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0349/

Gaskets(type in gasket part #'s listed below along with quanity).....https://www.halls-cycles.com/Catalog/Default.aspx

800058541 --> Husky Cam Chain $95.95
38010019 --> Motion Pro Flywheel Puller (labeled YFM, 35mm X 1.5mm) R.H.$38.99 unless ya want the one from husky which is around $100
800063644 --> Waterpump Gasket$4.99
161503601 --> Valve cover Gasket x2 $2.99 ea

[Circus]

If you go back to the beginning of this thread all the info. you need is there, including pics etc....Blue lock tite (medium), Gray gasket maker, 1 water pump gasket, 2 valve inspection cover gaskets, Might wanna go ahead and order the left & right side case gaskets as well, 1 Motion pro fly wheel puller(worth is weight in gold).

Order the cam chain here(In the motor section).... http://www.motosportz.com/HVA-SS/HVA-SS-Home.htm

Motion Pro fly wheel puller.....http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0349/

Gaskets(type in gasket part #'s listed below along with quanity).....https://www.halls-cycles.com/Catalog/Default.aspx

800058541 --> Husky Cam Chain $95.95
38010019 --> Motion Pro Flywheel Puller (labeled YFM, 35mm X 1.5mm) R.H.$38.99 unless ya want the one from husky which is around $100
800063644 --> Waterpump Gasket$4.99
161503601 --> Valve cover Gasket x2 $2.99 ea

I know the valve cover block uses a liquid gasket. What about the left and right cases, do they also use liquid gasket? If yes, then what brand / type is used? Mine has been back at the shop three times, under warranty to fix a leak at the valve cover block. So, apparently there must be some technique or material that needs to be used.

[restukey]

If you use an RTV sealer, make sure it goes on paper thin and smooth it out. There is oil passage at the bottom of the left flywheel side, if the sealer bleeds over the edge in a bead it will eventually end up around the oil passage. That narrow passage goes to the left side oil screen. Loctite anaerobic sealer is the right stuff to use. An anaerobic sealer is what comes stock on the bike, and was prone to leaking from the factory. The benefit is it will dissolve in heat and never plug an oil passage.

The new base gasket for some reason has a thin piece that I think needs to be cut out? It doesn't let the chain thread without uncoupling a link, and I don't think we have the option? You'll notice the offending piece by laying the base gasket on the mating surface, the spot in question has no matching mating surface. Let me know if that isn't right, someone?

Most of the other stuff is in the manual.

[DAN29600]

I know the valve cover block uses a liquid gasket. What about the left and right cases, do they also use liquid gasket? If yes, then what brand / type is used? Mine has been back at the shop three times, under warranty to fix a leak at the valve cover block. So, apparently there must be some technique or material that needs to be used.

There are specific Gaskets for the case, you need to pull up a Microfiche and pull those part #'s or just call Fast by Feracci they will know exactly what you need, I believe it's 1-800-Ferracci(The case gaskets will probably be cheaper at Halls).....Some people don't use the gaskets and just use Gasket maker(that's up to you) I would suggest either Permatex Ultra black Hi-Temp RTV Silicone gasket maker or VersaChem Mega Grey Gasket Maker. Let it sit after application for about 10 min or so then install cover etc...I use the Permatex

[restukey]

I know the valve cover block uses a liquid gasket. What about the left and right cases, do they also use liquid gasket? If yes, then what brand / type is used? Mine has been back at the shop three times, under warranty to fix a leak at the valve cover block. So, apparently there must be some technique or material that needs to be used.

I used Yamabond, RTV like sealer, on the rocker cover. Left and right side gaskets can be reused unless you already have a leak, no sealer on those. Using an RTV sealer on the rocker cover is a risk reward type deal. No leaks, but if it goes on too thick and an oil passage gets blocked, big trouble .

The anaerobic, am I using the right word, type sealants are normally for matching mating surfaces with close tolerances, rocker cover. They dry under the absence of air, so the excess dissolves in the oil.

Sorry if I confused.

[Circus]

I used Yamabond, RTV like sealer, on the rocker cover. Left and right side gaskets can be reused unless you already have a leak, no sealer on those. Using an RTV sealer on the rocker cover is a risk reward type deal. No leaks, but if it goes on too thick and an oil passage gets blocked, big trouble .

The anaerobic, am I using the right word, type sealants are normally for matching mating surfaces with close tolerances, rocker cover. They dry under the absence of air, so the excess dissolves in the oil.

Sorry if I confused.

Great stuff, thanks for the education. Where is this oil hole passage that needs to be kept clear? Can someone point me to the right photo from dirtyhucker. Which fasteners get the loctite?

[dirtyhucker]

Ok guys i just got a nice little package delivery from Dan at Motoxotica. Last week he told me cam chains were out a month on B/O, the UPS man just dropped one off at my house ten minutes ago...

So heres the start of it,
Paid 166 bucks for the following items listed by part number

800058541 --> Husky Cam Chain $95.95
38010019 --> Motion Pro Flywheel Puller (labeled YFM, 35mm X 1.5mm) R.H.$38.99 unless ya want the one from husky which is around $100
800063644 --> Waterpump Gasket$4.99
161503601 --> Valve cover Gasket x2 $2.99 ea

Ill be doing the work on the bike after i finish this damn summer school. Ill be posting necessary tools, procedure, any little tricks i find along the way and small details i would want my feller 610 riders to know... as well as my typical barrage of pictures for those who just dont want to read my babel.

DELIVERY!!!!!!!!!!!!


To be continued...

first post...

[Goosedog]

My new cam chain I ordered from the local Husky shop is a D.I.D. made in Japan, is that what you guys are putting back in?
I see in DH's pic his chain came in a Husqvarna package, mine was loose in a bag with the same numbers on a label as his package. (800058541)

[DAN29600]

My new cam chain I ordered from the local Husky shop is a D.I.D. made in Japan, is that what you guys are putting back in?
I see in DH's pic his chain came in a Husqvarna package, mine was loose in a bag with the same numbers on a label as his package. (800058541)

Mine was a DID in Husky packaging as well....

[Goosedog]

Back from my holiday travels and started in on the bike again last night. Good Lord that flywheel was a bitch to remove and when it did, it snapped so loud I thought I broke something. Seems it was glued on at the factory! Anyone else have that hardened green glue just above the key on the crank shaft?

Also I laid my old cam chain next to the new one on the bench and they are exactly the same length, guess I was one of the lucky ones with a good chain to start with.

[shamanican]

Mine was a DID in Husky packaging as well....

Mine was a DID in Husky packaging too....