In a previous thread, I mentioned that the Airbox Flap was put in for Noise Emissions for drive by testing. I've decided to remove it for less clutter and complexity. Some people are removing the airbox door.
Here's how I removed the Airbox Flapper Solenoid and associated hardware;
Here are the tools used and a picture of what will be removed;
Screw Driver Flat Head
Screw Driver Phillips Head
5mm Allen Wrench
1/4" Socket Wrench w/ 8mm and 10mm sockets
1/2" Socket Wrench w 5mm allen attachment (not necessary but makes the radiator side cap screws easier to remove)
You will also need a 1/8" rubber cap from an auto parts store.
1. Remove all of the body panels. I removed seat, side covers, rear fender, both front air directors, unclip the ECU.
2. Loosen the 3 screws that hold the gas tank on. Now you have access to the vacuum line under the tank. You can trace the vacuum line that goes to the throttle body because it attaches to the Black Plastic cylinder (the service manual says it's a Surge Tank). Pull the vacuum line from the throttle body and put a 1/8" rubber cap on the port. THE PORT NEEDS TO BE CAPPED.
When pulling the rubber vacuum lines out, it's easier to detach the lines from the surge tank. I didn't bother trying to move the main wiring harness. It's not necessary if you just pull off the vacuum lines from the various parts.
3. Next unscrew both the Surge Tank (black round thing) and the Intake Solenoid (behind the Surge Tank).
4. Next remove the Solenoid that controls the Airbox Flap. You can do this by rotating the solenoid Counter Clockwise (if not try clockwise, I forget the exact direction). The solenoid will pop out. You will need to put a small screw driver down the airbox opening and pry the clip off. Here's what it looks like without the solenoid and associated hardware.
5. To keep the Airbox flap in the down position, I drilled a small hole in the flap and the plastic directly below it. I used a 5/8" long self tapping screw to secure the flap (see picture).
6. Here's a picture showing everything removed.
The removal was a 45 minute job.
A tip on removing the vacuum lines from the fittings is to use a flat head screw driver and pry between the vacuum line and part. If you try to pull it off, the rubber will cinch tighter around the fitting.
Overall weight saved was not much, maybe 1.5lbs but there's much less complexity and clutter under the seat and to the bike in general.