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Thread: First Supermoto Build - crf450r

  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by kb10103 View Post
    2 pics of the dirty stock engine as promised...just waiting to be ripped into.



    That looks really familiar, but i just cant put my finger on from where ...........

    Ah now i remember i have somthing like that sitting on my work bench ready to get get torn into!




    But i see you mentioned your getting the gear jammer from motion pro which is definately a good choice! I have invested a small fortune in motion pro tools alone, which make things go much smoother. They make some specific tools for the CRF450 engine that i highly recommend getting also the crank puller and case splitter from tusk arent that expensive and save you headaches!

  2. #102
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    Ha that does look strangely familiar!

    Yours looks clean though...I have some work ahead of me. I need to go on motion pros site tomorrow and pick some stuff up. I have the flywheel puller and spanner socket already. Want to pick the jammer up and a few other things like clutch tools and so on as well.

    What are you planning to do with yours? I'll basically have a new engine when done...that's my plan at least.

    Still debating on stroker crank or stock height...no idea...decisions decisions.

  3. #103
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    Woah nice project. But just one thing I don't get..you got a sick setup with the billet brembo brake caliper..and then you decided to put a crappy axial brake master on it
    Caliper needs a radial brembo rcs-15/19 master. I upgraded to a RCS15 and the difference is night and day.
    2008 Husqvarna SM450R
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  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeoGeniX View Post
    Woah nice project. But just one thing I don't get..you got a sick setup with the billet brembo brake caliper..and then you decided to put a crappy axial brake master on it
    Caliper needs a radial brembo rcs-15/19 master. I upgraded to a RCS15 and the difference is night and day.
    Thanks its a fun build.

    To answer your question I did this for two reasons. It's going to be a street bike mostly and the advantage of the mechanical brake switch it irreplaceable. Secondly it isn't really a crappy master cylinder. Its from a trx450 and it has a 13mm bore. It is actually an awesome master and instead of spending 200+ on a master I spent $35 and it will work great! 13mm is the size master that is paired with supermoto brembo calipers by the way. The rcs15 might be overkill for a street bike. I'm looking for good feel not send me over the handlebars stopping power. The stock crf450r comes with a 11mm front brake master so its a step up already. Also most of the masters considered to be the best...brembo, motomaster, magura and so on all use a 13mm in their packages (they are radial though).

    Now the difference between axial and radial is not much as they function exactly the same, the piston and level pull is just backwards...

    The axial has a parallel to the handlebars piston and the radial has a perpendicular piston to the bars...the radial is better when racing 450lbs sportbikes around a track as they don't flex quiet as much when pulling the level in, so they are a little stiffer and provide a little better feel. So on a supermoto, being so light and all, axial and radial will function basically the same providing the same stopping power. So radial just becomes a bling factor then and I have spent my bling money elsewhere haha.

    Ask around the trx450 master is a very popular upgrade for other manufactures as well...in fact I saw the Crash put one on his recent wr450 build and loves it!

    Long response I know, just wanted to give the reasoning behind my decisions so other can follow along!

    Thanks again for the compliment on the build!!!

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by kb10103 View Post
    Still debating on stroker crank or stock height...no idea...decisions decisions.
    Putting a stroker crank on an engine with a big bore would put out insane power... for about 10 hours, then your bottom end is done. You might have some reliability problems if you put a stroker on that big bore kit. Of course there's one way to find out, heheh. Be sure to get that on a dyno before it explodes.

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zaph View Post
    Putting a stroker crank on an engine with a big bore would put out insane power... for about 10 hours, then your bottom end is done. You might have some reliability problems if you put a stroker on that big bore kit. Of course there's one way to find out, heheh. Be sure to get that on a dyno before it explodes.
    Lol I know right!! This is why I'm leaning towards stock height but getting a new hot rods crank. I should pull 62-65 hp with my set up I'm thinking...stroker would bring it up a bit but I'm worried about reliability. I've heard lots of mixed stories...

    What do you think would fail in the bottom end?

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by kb10103 View Post
    What do you think would fail in the bottom end?
    Well I'm no expert, and I couldn't really guess what goes first. But whatever goes first could take out everything else. I suspect there's only so much power you can make before reliability goes out the window. When your hp is touching the 70's, you probably get like one hard track day and the engine is done. On the other hand, the smile on your face is permanent.

  8. #108
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    You could do without the stroker crank and we will see if mine explodes. Fingers crossed.
    '06 CRF 450R street tard / '09 Husky SM450R / CR500AF Sumo - Current
    '04 KLX110 / CR500AF MX / '08 GSXR 1000 / '03 GSXR 1000 - Current
    '06 YZ 250 / OEM CR500 Steely / '08 KTM SXF 505 - Current
    '95 CBR900RR / '99 R1 / '03 R6 / '04 GSXR600 / (2) '02 GSXR1000 / (2) '05 636 -Sold
    '70 SL125 / '85 KX80 / '90 CR125 / '97 RM125 / '01 CR250 / '02 YZ125 / '05 RMZ450 - Sold

  9. #109
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    With regards to the radial master cylinder. I respectfully disagree. I have changed my OEM Brembo axial out for a Brembo radial RCS on the Husky. I would say it is money well spent, and not just bling. Definitely improved feeling. Granted I see where you are coming from, an OEM master will for sure get the job done for regular street duty. And that's $300+ that you can put into other areas. I still have the OEM master cylinder on my CRF and it feels both strong and good feedback. I'm using a hydraulic pressure switch by the way and can't tell it's there. Brakes are on my list of things to upgrade. There's nothing wrong with the master you've got, plus I like that you're thinking outside the box. The mechanical switch will clean up the wiring a little too.
    Last edited by rrrr1rob; 12-20-2012 at 02:40 AM.
    '06 CRF 450R street tard / '09 Husky SM450R / CR500AF Sumo - Current
    '04 KLX110 / CR500AF MX / '08 GSXR 1000 / '03 GSXR 1000 - Current
    '06 YZ 250 / OEM CR500 Steely / '08 KTM SXF 505 - Current
    '95 CBR900RR / '99 R1 / '03 R6 / '04 GSXR600 / (2) '02 GSXR1000 / (2) '05 636 -Sold
    '70 SL125 / '85 KX80 / '90 CR125 / '97 RM125 / '01 CR250 / '02 YZ125 / '05 RMZ450 - Sold

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by rrrr1rob View Post
    With regards to the radial master cylinder. I respectively disagree. I have changed my OEM Brembo axial out for a Brembo radial RCS on the Husky. I would say it is money well spent, and not just bling. Definitely improved feeling. Granted I see where you are coming from, an OEM master will for sure get the job done for regular street duty. And that's $300+ that you can put into other areas. I still have the OEM master cylinder on my CRF and it feels both strong and good feedback. I'm using a hydraulic pressure switch by the way and can't tell it's there. Brakes are on my list of things to upgrade. There's nothing wrong with the master you've got, plus I like that you're thinking outside the box. The mechanical switch will clean up the wiring a little too.
    I have a brembo 13mm axial that I liked on the crf before...so going to another 13mm axial I guess I felt would be good . Point taken, I guess I was just trying to explain why it wasn't a bad choice just a different one.

    I've run pressure switches on several bikes and never minded them I just didn't like that it was hard to flash the brakes, mine always seemed to want a decent amount of pressure before activating. With mechanical switches, as I'm sure you know, activate by basically touching the lever.

    What bore did you get? I just felt that 15mm would be too much, and 19mm is what I have on the sport bike. That think would makes me do front flips lol!

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zaph View Post
    Putting a stroker crank on an engine with a big bore would put out insane power... for about 10 hours, then your bottom end is done. You might have some reliability problems if you put a stroker on that big bore kit. Of course there's one way to find out, heheh. Be sure to get that on a dyno before it explodes.
    Having done it(although it was a yamaha - WR - 72mm stoke 100mm bore) we never had an issue with the bottom end. We had a bunch of other issues related to other modifications(rotor coming loose because of the supercharger pulley, starter not strong enough when using the supercharger, trigger wheel for the MS getting out of place). But we never had a major bottom end issue. We ran that motor hard.


    We were at 70whp with a 20mm restrictor in the intake and a supertrapp.

  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robby1227 View Post
    Having done it(although it was a yamaha - WR - 72mm stoke 100mm bore) we never had an issue with the bottom end. We had a bunch of other issues related to other modifications(rotor coming loose because of the supercharger pulley, starter not strong enough when using the supercharger, trigger wheel for the MS getting out of place). But we never had a major bottom end issue. We ran that motor hard.


    We were at 70whp with a 20mm restrictor in the intake and a supertrapp.
    Hmmm...could you tell me what internals you used?

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by kb10103 View Post
    Hmmm...could you tell me what internals you used?
    I would have to dig around on my computer to find it as I can't remember at the moment.

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robby1227 View Post
    I would have to dig around on my computer to find it as I can't remember at the moment.
    Haha only if you want to.

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by kb10103 View Post
    Haha only if you want to.
    It was a team deal and I dealt more with the electronics and supercharger. But I have it somewhere.

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by kb10103 View Post
    I have a brembo 13mm axial that I liked on the crf before...so going to another 13mm axial I guess I felt would be good . Point taken, I guess I was just trying to explain why it wasn't a bad choice just a different one.

    I've run pressure switches on several bikes and never minded them I just didn't like that it was hard to flash the brakes, mine always seemed to want a decent amount of pressure before activating. With mechanical switches, as I'm sure you know, activate by basically touching the lever.

    What bore did you get? I just felt that 15mm would be too much, and 19mm is what I have on the sport bike. That think would makes me do front flips lol!
    13mm is adequate. I personally like that you have gone a different route. That opens up the door for others building their bikes to think outside the norm. I see what you mean about the pressure switch and why you would not want it for brake flashing. There's also the Edge2 tail light processor board from 12 0'clock labs that can be programmed to do a flash sequence before going solid each time you hit the brakes. Just throwing that out there for others, I know you already have a tail light.

    also, I went with the RCS 15. I don't think it's too much. I also run the RCS 19 on the 08 GSXR 1000 with galfer rotors and goodridge race lines.
    '06 CRF 450R street tard / '09 Husky SM450R / CR500AF Sumo - Current
    '04 KLX110 / CR500AF MX / '08 GSXR 1000 / '03 GSXR 1000 - Current
    '06 YZ 250 / OEM CR500 Steely / '08 KTM SXF 505 - Current
    '95 CBR900RR / '99 R1 / '03 R6 / '04 GSXR600 / (2) '02 GSXR1000 / (2) '05 636 -Sold
    '70 SL125 / '85 KX80 / '90 CR125 / '97 RM125 / '01 CR250 / '02 YZ125 / '05 RMZ450 - Sold

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by rrrr1rob View Post
    13mm is adequate. I personally like that you have gone a different route. That opens up the door for others building their bikes to think outside the norm. I see what you mean about the pressure switch and why you would not want it for brake flashing. There's also the Edge2 tail light processor board from 12 0'clock labs that can be programmed to do a flash sequence before going solid each time you hit the brakes. Just throwing that out there for others, I know you already have a tail light.

    also, I went with the RCS 15. I don't think it's too much. I also run the RCS 19 on the 08 GSXR 1000 with galfer rotors and goodridge race lines.
    Hmmm...I had a tail like that on my 1000rr. Wonder if they do integrated turns as well. Might check that out.

    Btw brembo 19mm masters on sport bikes = amazing!! I have a 19x18 billet clutch master and a 19x18 forged brake master on the 1000rr paired with ALTH 320mm full floating rotors. They were amazing, there is no other word to describe them. Sadly those masters funded this project and the rotor soon will too!

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by kb10103 View Post
    Hmmm...I had a tail like that on my 1000rr. Wonder if they do integrated turns as well. Might check that out.

    Btw brembo 19mm masters on sport bikes = amazing!! I have a 19x18 billet clutch master and a 19x18 forged brake master on the 1000rr paired with ALTH 320mm full floating rotors. They were amazing, there is no other word to describe them. Sadly those masters funded this project and the rotor soon will too!
    It is also integrated and they have a universal mounting bracket as well as a couple bike specific ones. Although none for our bikes I'm afraid.
    '06 CRF 450R street tard / '09 Husky SM450R / CR500AF Sumo - Current
    '04 KLX110 / CR500AF MX / '08 GSXR 1000 / '03 GSXR 1000 - Current
    '06 YZ 250 / OEM CR500 Steely / '08 KTM SXF 505 - Current
    '95 CBR900RR / '99 R1 / '03 R6 / '04 GSXR600 / (2) '02 GSXR1000 / (2) '05 636 -Sold
    '70 SL125 / '85 KX80 / '90 CR125 / '97 RM125 / '01 CR250 / '02 YZ125 / '05 RMZ450 - Sold

  19. #119
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    should pull 62-65 hp with my set up I'm thinking...
    That is verrrry optimistic. I have an extensively built stock bore 450R and it barely puts out 55 Dynojet HP. (48HP on Eddie Current Factory Pro dyno) [Dynojet tweaks their math to give higher readouts, Factory Pro is more accurate. There's roughly a 15% variance]

    I would love to see it make that kind of power though, if it does please post your chart and what you've done to the engine!
    FFRacing
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  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by kb10103 View Post
    Ha that does look strangely familiar!

    Yours looks clean though...I have some work ahead of me. I need to go on motion pros site tomorrow and pick some stuff up. I have the flywheel puller and spanner socket already. Want to pick the jammer up and a few other things like clutch tools and so on as well.

    What are you planning to do with yours? I'll basically have a new engine when done...that's my plan at least.

    Still debating on stroker crank or stock height...no idea...decisions decisions.
    I havent totally decided yet. I usually buy a blown up bike or two over the winter to fix and sell to make a few bucks which currently is the plan for this. I sold my 690 SMC which i regret, but at the same time i wanted to build my own bike. So as of right now there is alot of bikes that i would like to get my hands on to build a sumo so pretty much it comes down to what ever i find first for a good deal. I would like to find an 09 or newer CRF450 as i think that body style looks awesome as a supermoto. But we will see what happens once this one is running.

    As for your dilemma as to go with a stroker or not, imo i would stay with stock. By going with the big bore and keeping stock stroke it allows you higher RPM's and more horsepower. Along with freshening up the rest of the motor as you intend to. Which if your going to be using it for commuting i would rather go that way for cruising speeds and have a more reliable motor. But if your racing it and your budget isnt limited i say go balls to the walls but just my 0.02.
    Last edited by Millertime2723; 12-19-2012 at 03:38 AM.

  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sand.Man View Post
    That is verrrry optimistic. I have an extensively built stock bore 450R and it barely puts out 55 Dynojet HP. (48HP on Eddie Current Factory Pro dyno) [Dynojet tweaks their math to give higher readouts, Factory Pro is more accurate. There's roughly a 15% variance]

    I would love to see it make that kind of power though, if it does please post your chart and what you've done to the engine!
    I was basing that off the numbers the guy doing my head work told me. And tacking a couple on from from big bore. Good info tho thanks!

    I'll post up when its all done.

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by Millertime2723 View Post
    As for your dilemma as to go with a stroker or not, imo i would stay with stock. By going with the big bore and keeping stock stroke it allows you higher RPM's and more horsepower. Along with freshening up the rest of the motor as you intend to. Which if your going to be using it for commuting i would rather go that way for cruising speeds and have a more reliable motor. But if your racing it and your budget isnt limited i say go balls to the walls but just my 0.02.
    Makes a whole lot of sense. The more I think about it and hear from you guys the more my mind gets made up...stock height. And I will be riding it to work sometimes, not everyday, but I don't take the highways when I ride to work.

    Even on sport bikes I went back roads. Unless the highway is the only way I went around them...that said it is still about 12 miles each way. And one of my riding buddies is 40 miles away so I think your right I should go stock.

    Thanks for the input everyone!

  23. #123
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    my new 240mm rear rotor came in today! looks nice I really like it. It also came with new black hardware, but i think i'm going to stick with my stainless stuff since the bike is so dark already it's nice to have a little shin in there.



    Also picked up a used billet gas cap for cheap it has red, silver and carbon fiber look in the recesses. short fuel vent and shinny aluminum vent cap.



    Parts i'm waiting on are some spacers (my fault more then anything)

    New fork brackets for the headlight, I order 50mm for the forks (because they are 50mm forks) but i guess i had a mental breakdown and forgot that the part the brackets clamps to (upper fork tube) is fatter....so I needed 60mm brackets and apparently the company that makes them custom needed to special produce that size for me so it's taking a bit. Lucky for me they were wanting to make this size for awhile so I just exchanged them and there was no extra charge.

    I need to get my self to the hardware store and get some more black round or flat head bolts for the rear fender to mount the light assembly.

    My new projector shroud, I went with the GTI-R shroud it mimics the new VW GTI one very well and more importantly it's smaller. hopefully this one fits, i'm pretty confident that it will though.

    Front stainless steel brake line. turns out my new master and old master don't have comparable lines, the banjo was built in (straight style) in the old master and it comes in from the bottom front on the new one.

  24. #124
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    Do you know who makes the cap? I like it! The bike is coming together nice.
    (2) 05 HONDA CRF 450X

    CRF Chain blocks and slide kits now available. PM me if you're interested.
    Pics http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showt...amp-slide-kits

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by MJ 88 View Post
    Do you know who makes the cap? I like it! The bike is coming together nice.
    Sure...sunline I believe is the name of the company that made mine. I know others make very similar ones too.

  26. #126
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    Thanks, I've never seen that style.
    (2) 05 HONDA CRF 450X

    CRF Chain blocks and slide kits now available. PM me if you're interested.
    Pics http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showt...amp-slide-kits

  27. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by MJ 88 View Post
    Thanks, I've never seen that style.
    this is one of the more expensive variations (actually might be the original). I was actually searching for this one when i found the one i did. i think the version i have retails for around $60-70 new but i found a deal that i couldn't pass up

    here's the link:

    http://www.project321.com/products_moto-GCcarbon.php

  28. #128
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    Lol. That's the one I just found. 90$ x2 ouch! I'll probably still do it one black and one red. Thanks again.
    (2) 05 HONDA CRF 450X

    CRF Chain blocks and slide kits now available. PM me if you're interested.
    Pics http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showt...amp-slide-kits

  29. #129
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    Haha that's the way though. If you are going to jump you might as well just go all out

  30. #130
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    This is why I bought bike two. But bike one was not done. I'm down to four bikes now. I'm thinking a 150r is the next addition to the collection. Now do I set it up for the woods or the track? Don't tell the wife!
    (2) 05 HONDA CRF 450X

    CRF Chain blocks and slide kits now available. PM me if you're interested.
    Pics http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showt...amp-slide-kits

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    Hahaha...I won't tell if you don't tell mine!

  32. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by kb10103 View Post
    I was basing that off the numbers the guy doing my head work told me. And tacking a couple on from from big bore. Good info tho thanks!

    I'll post up when its all done.
    A guy I race with had the fastest CRF I've ever seen, 60+ hp... He tried an Athena big bore and he said it made less power than the 450 and was less reliable. Just food for thought!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sand.Man View Post
    A guy I race with had the fastest CRF I've ever seen, 60+ hp... He tried an Athena big bore and he said it made less power than the 450 and was less reliable. Just food for thought!
    Well its to late now! I hadn't really read anything like that, but you never know. I will say that any big bore won't make a difference and actually hurt performance with no supporting mods. You need head work, a cam, jetting, a pipe and so on.

    Thanks for the heads up though.

  34. #134
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    these came in today...not sure if i will use them or not yet as the weave in the carbon on the vinyl is larger then i like and then the other carbon fiber parts i have. we'll see, i'll probably slap them on and see what they look like, after all they are very easy to remove if they don't look right. If i don't use these i'll just buy a few others until i get what i like (they were only like $5 shipped haha)


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    New GTI-R shroud came in today! I almost jumped the mail man I was so pumped it finally came in. Did a bunch of work on the headlight and tried to take pics along the way so I could detail it here. It's funny when you try to document something, I was sitting there thinking alright now I need to make sure to stop and take a picture here, and arrange the parts this way so you can see what i'm doing...

    First the new shroud. perfect fit by the way, plenty of clearance.



    Had to order a new LED halo ring for this shroud as well since the one I had prior was 100mm ring for the larger shroud. this ring also installs externally instead of internally like the other one (new one is 80mm). externally might not looks as clean (still is clean though) but it is REALLY BRIGHT!



    getting ready for the install so I prepped the wires on the LED halo for passing through the machined adapters. Un-clipped this little white connector.



    then disassembled the connector and took the pins out.



    wanted to do this all as clean and right as possible. So i cut off the factoy heat shrink from the wiring so I could run the LED Halo wires through the same shielding.



    then slipped the wire shielding off the two wires (these wires control the bi-xenon high/low solenoid)



    next went to my trusty supply of heat shrink and cut some new pieces, 3.0 and 4.5, i didn't know what would be the right size since I was adding 2 more wires (the original i think was 3.0ish)



    Next I turned to the aluminum adapters/mounting brackets. they are solid (the way I wanted them)...I needed a way to pass the wires through them so I lined them up and drilled a hole just big enough for the wires and heat shrink to pass through. now I also didn't want to have the wires rubbing on these holes as they could tear and short out, so i Made sure that the wire shielding bridges the gap to protect them, worked out very well as you will see.



    next turned to the install of the LED halo on the top of the shroud. lined up the shroud on the projector so that the halo wires were at the bottom just like on the projector (for the solenoid wires). then drilled a small hole large enough to pass the wires through to the install it on the shroud.



    went and evenly spaced out 3 marks (black sharpie) and then used a thumb tack to put little indents in the plastic for a dill guide. now others have said just to push the pin through the plastice to make the hole, which i did on the first hole but it looked horrible and left uneven/jagged edges so i went for a drill bit. turns out the pin was almost the exact same size as a 1/16 bit. so i drilled out the rest (5 holes) for the halo mounting. after all the holes were drilled i lined the halo up and centered it on the opening and threaded 24 gauge floral wire over the halo and down through the holes on either side of the ring. On the back side i used a needle nose pliers to twist them and pull the halo tight against the outside of the shroud. Snipped the excess and tucked the twisted part down on the inside.



    Next turned my attention to the inside where the halo power wires came through and the centric ring for the projector goes. I had to dremel a bit of the inner shroud ring to get the wires for the halo at a good spot so the centric ring didn't pinch them. once i got them at a good spot I snapped the centric ring into place.



    then popped the shroud/halo unit onto the projector in prep to re-shield and heat shrink all the wires together and make it look factory again.



    Got all the wires through and used a heat gun to shrink the heat shrink. held the gun at one spot to long and melted the shielding a bit in one area so I used a little electrical tape to secure that area and make sure it was covered/protected well. turned out great and looks like this now!



    Got all that done and then re-installed the whole thing into the headlight housing. everything went together very well, very solid feel and looks great. the new shroud worked out perfectly I think, giving me enough clearance to reseal the lens to the housing and not hit anything. Here is a pic of what it will look like I still have to pick up some high temp silicone to adhere the shroud to the projector and make sure it never moves and also to run a thin bead along the area where the lens and housing go together, just in case I miss an small areas with the new adhesive, it was also like this from the factory. so once i get that (maybe tomorrow) i'll finish it up!



    I tested the halo and the high/low solenoid to make sure everything worked before buttoning it up. the solenoid worked just as it should. the LED Halo ring is BRIGHT! I tested it and that little ring lit my entire garage up light it was Christmas haha...both awesome and impressive. I think it will make a great DRL.

    I also want to pick up a few more male and female 9006 connectors so i don't have to splice anything at all when wiring it all up to the bike, gives a cleaner look and is much easier to take off and put back on as well when doing maintenance and what not.

    Hope you enjoyed the long post lol!!
    Last edited by kb10103; 12-22-2012 at 08:49 PM.

  36. #136
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    Awesome detail on the headlight project! Can't wait to see that baby lit up!
    '06 CRF 450R street tard / '09 Husky SM450R / CR500AF Sumo - Current
    '04 KLX110 / CR500AF MX / '08 GSXR 1000 / '03 GSXR 1000 - Current
    '06 YZ 250 / OEM CR500 Steely / '08 KTM SXF 505 - Current
    '95 CBR900RR / '99 R1 / '03 R6 / '04 GSXR600 / (2) '02 GSXR1000 / (2) '05 636 -Sold
    '70 SL125 / '85 KX80 / '90 CR125 / '97 RM125 / '01 CR250 / '02 YZ125 / '05 RMZ450 - Sold

  37. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by rrrr1rob View Post
    Awesome detail on the headlight project! Can't wait to see that baby lit up!
    Thanks Rob! And thanks again for your help, those brackets worked out perfectly!

  38. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by kb10103 View Post
    Thanks Rob! And thanks again for your help, those brackets worked out perfectly!
    No prob, happy I could help out.
    '06 CRF 450R street tard / '09 Husky SM450R / CR500AF Sumo - Current
    '04 KLX110 / CR500AF MX / '08 GSXR 1000 / '03 GSXR 1000 - Current
    '06 YZ 250 / OEM CR500 Steely / '08 KTM SXF 505 - Current
    '95 CBR900RR / '99 R1 / '03 R6 / '04 GSXR600 / (2) '02 GSXR1000 / (2) '05 636 -Sold
    '70 SL125 / '85 KX80 / '90 CR125 / '97 RM125 / '01 CR250 / '02 YZ125 / '05 RMZ450 - Sold

  39. #139
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    Picked up new little bolts and nuts to replace the rivets I drilled out on the airbox. Also the silicone I need to finish the headlight. Need make sure I have the projector aligned horizontally first and then seal it up. Hoping to have some time today but we'll see.


  40. #140
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    Finished up the headlight...250 degrees for 10 minutes, press together untill it snaps in place and let cool. Ran a bead of clear silicone around the edge just to make sure. Put all the vents and threaded inserts back on, attached the face cover, and installed the little bulb up top (this bulb is for show since I'm using my halo as the DLR). I snipped the wiring off the back of it and just plugged the bulb and holder in place, then put silicone over the small wire holes to weather proof them.


  41. #141
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    Some late presents to myself came today. In prep for the engine rebuild, clutch tool, cam gear jammer, gear jammer, flywheel puller and a spanner socket!




  42. #142
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    Did you ever put up a mock-up picture of the headlight on the bike? I'm curious how it'll look.

  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by pineapplebrah View Post
    Did you ever put up a mock-up picture of the headlight on the bike? I'm curious how it'll look.
    No I haven't yet...waiting for my larger fork brackets to come. The company had to make them special because I need such a large size. I have a set of rubber ones that won't even stretch haha! I might be able to rig it just to hold it....let me give it some thought see if I can come up with something.
    Last edited by kb10103; 12-27-2012 at 08:09 PM.

  44. #144
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    Got a picture of the headlight (carefully resting on the front fender) for your guys. When it is actually mounted it will be a little higher and at a slightly different angle since I had to lean it back so that it would not fall! I think it looks different and I really like it! let me know what you think, good or bad




  45. #145
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    also.....

    I picked up something really sweet, thanks to Rob! Carbon Fiber side panels for the crf450 that were made and molded specifically for dual exhaust. We believe that they were made either by/for Leo Vince's dual set up for our bikes (to bad that the exhaust they were made for is damn near impossible to find!!!). they are amazing looking in person! Need to build up some of the mounts so they sit flat on the sub frame but they are a welcome addition to my project. They actually arrived on Xmas Eve just haven't had time to take pictures until tonight. they are also a little shorter and not as long to show the exhaust cans off more then the OEM number plates.





    RIGHT SIDE



    LEFT SIDE



    I'm smiling ear to ear just posting these haha

  46. #146
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    ^ Nice!!! Carbon always looks good. I say no to the fake carbon, it will just taint your soon to be work of art.
    (2) 05 HONDA CRF 450X

    CRF Chain blocks and slide kits now available. PM me if you're interested.
    Pics http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showt...amp-slide-kits

  47. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by MJ 88 View Post
    ^ Nice!!! Carbon always looks good. I say no to the fake carbon, it will just taint your soon to be work of art.
    Lol thanks I think I agree. Plus too much isn't a good thing either. I'll have to figure something out for the air box sides since they are a duller black and I'm not really sure to put a decal on them because I don't want to litter it with decals either haha.

    Maybe a solid white background or a glossy black decal...any suggestions guys?

  48. #148
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    Or maybe a gray Honda wing.
    (2) 05 HONDA CRF 450X

    CRF Chain blocks and slide kits now available. PM me if you're interested.
    Pics http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showt...amp-slide-kits

  49. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by MJ 88 View Post
    Or maybe a gray Honda wing.
    Didn't even think of that haha...I like that idea though gonna have to pick one up and see what it looks like.

  50. #150
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    Carbon looks good with those pipes! Also, that headlight is bad ass looking. As for the airbox- yea I say ditch the faux carbon. Take the decals you've got now and trace the outline onto some universal black backgrounds for the airbox. It will keep it black and glossy and if it gets scuffed, cut a new piece. my $0.02
    '06 CRF 450R street tard / '09 Husky SM450R / CR500AF Sumo - Current
    '04 KLX110 / CR500AF MX / '08 GSXR 1000 / '03 GSXR 1000 - Current
    '06 YZ 250 / OEM CR500 Steely / '08 KTM SXF 505 - Current
    '95 CBR900RR / '99 R1 / '03 R6 / '04 GSXR600 / (2) '02 GSXR1000 / (2) '05 636 -Sold
    '70 SL125 / '85 KX80 / '90 CR125 / '97 RM125 / '01 CR250 / '02 YZ125 / '05 RMZ450 - Sold

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