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Thread: I lowsided, teach me about aftermarket bars!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    10

    Default I lowsided, teach me about aftermarket bars!

    I know nothing. What do you guys run? Where do I start?! Help!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    victoria, TEXAS
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    Start by sitting on your bike, position your hands roughly where you think the new bars would go or whatever is most comfy. And go to pro tapers site, I think they have the measurements for the different bends. Go from there.
    09 WR250X
    08 SM450R

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Hendo-, NC
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    58

    Default

    Yep, just try to see what feels natural to you before you buy them. Then get an idea of how much pullback and rise you need and the width.

    I run Pro Taper SE's on all my bikes, but any good quality aftermarket bar is good.

    Here's a link for ya. They have sizing charts for all their bars

    http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...bar/HANDLEBARS


    Pro-Taper SE 7/8" Handlebar Sizing Chart
    Bend Width Height Pull Back
    ATV High Bend 32.00" 6.30" 3.94"
    ATV Low Bend 32.00" 5.50" 3.30"
    ATV Mid Bend 32.00" 5.90" 3.00"
    Carmichael Bend 31.50" 3.00" 2.17"
    CR Low Bend 31.50" 2.80" 2.68"
    CR Mid Bend 31.50" 3.23" 2.36"
    CR High Bend 31.50" 3.74" 2.45"
    Factory Suzuki Bend 32.00" 3.63" 1.85"
    Henry/Reed Bend 31.50" 3.70" 2.17"
    Honda Mini Bend 28.75" 4.60" 1.97"
    KTM 50 Bend 25.50" 3.15" 1.75"
    KX Low Bend 31.50" 2.80" 2.36"
    KX High Bend 32.00" 4.25" 3.07"
    Kawasaki Mini Bend 28.75" 3.71" 1.97"
    Raptor Bend 30.30" 5.63" 3.41"
    RM Low Bend 32.00" 2.91" 2.17"
    RM High Bend 31.50" 3.23" 2.87"
    School Boy High Bend 28.10" 3.46" 1.77"
    School Boy Low Bend 28.10" 3.07" 1.85"
    Suzuki Mini Bend 28.75" 4.00" 1.97"
    Windham/RM Mid Bend 32.00" 3.90" 2.13"
    XR50 Bend 28.50" 6.75" 1.75"
    YZ Low Bend 31.50" 2.64" 2.76"
    YZ High Bend 31.50" 3.31" 2.05"
    Yamaha Mini Bend 28.75" 3.90" 2.28"
    KLX 351 SF

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Jackson, WY
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    137

    Default

    Thinking the same thing... Im looking into Tag Metals Alius S&D oversized bars...

    http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...WT.MC_ID=10010
    "If it has tits, tracks, or tire's it's bound to give you problems.."

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    10

    Default Got it

    Thanks for the advice! I went with the Pro Taper SEs. I love them and they feel better when I sit closer to the bars. However, I am having a hell of a time getting the left grip to stay put. I've now tried two different grip glues, a Scott one and a Renthal one.

  6. #6
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    Sep 2007
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    Orlando, FL
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    I've had good success using spray paint

  7. #7
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    Mar 2012
    Location
    Novi, Michigan
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    I was about to post the same question. I'm totally new also.
    So what bars did you get, did all the mirrors, grips ect just swap over? Ive heard of the cables not being long enough is that true? Any pics of the new bars.

    Sorry for all the questions, I lowsided after finding out the SF is not that good on grass LOL

  8. #8
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    Apr 2012
    Location
    Bandung, Indonesia
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    Quote Originally Posted by CallmeDave View Post
    I was about to post the same question. I'm totally new also.
    So what bars did you get, did all the mirrors, grips ect just swap over? Ive heard of the cables not being long enough is that true? Any pics of the new bars.

    Sorry for all the questions, I lowsided after finding out the SF is not that good on grass LOL
    Im riding dtracker x and I replace my handle bar with Protaper contour reed bend.. just plug and play.. but for the throttle cable or clutch cable, I use the OEM and I make a new route...not following the original route


    *sorry for the bad english guys

  9. #9
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    Jun 2012
    Location
    WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdj08 View Post
    Thanks for the advice! I went with the Pro Taper SEs. I love them and they feel better when I sit closer to the bars. However, I am having a hell of a time getting the left grip to stay put. I've now tried two different grip glues, a Scott one and a Renthal one.
    use more glue. also put 2 or 3 wraps of safety wire on. and don't touch it for atleast 12 hours. give the the glue time to dry.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Northern California
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    654

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    Quote Originally Posted by tezhiro View Post
    Im riding dtracker x and I replace my handle bar with Protaper contour reed bend.. just plug and play.. but for the throttle cable or clutch cable, I use the OEM and I make a new route...not following the original route


    *sorry for the bad english guys
    Im curious as to how you ran your throttle cable. I've got the pro taper kx highs and whenever I turn full lock to the left my cable will tighten up and actually rev the motor. Kinda dangerous when I'm parking.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    10

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    Quote Originally Posted by CallmeDave View Post
    I was about to post the same question. I'm totally new also.
    So what bars did you get, did all the mirrors, grips ect just swap over? Ive heard of the cables not being long enough is that true? Any pics of the new bars.

    Sorry for all the questions, I lowsided after finding out the SF is not that good on grass LOL
    I went with the Pro Taper SE YZ High Bend. I wanted something that would allow me to sit further up in the seat. Everything was plug and play for me. Really simple actually!

    The throttle cable was a little tight and caused the engine to rev a little, but after pushing the throttle tube all the way to the end of the bar, there isn't a problem. The plastic around the throttle cable is a little tight, but it doesn't rev anymore when I turn lock to lock.

  12. #12
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    Aug 2010
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    victoria, TEXAS
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdj08 View Post
    I went with the Pro Taper SE YZ High Bend. I wanted something that would allow me to sit further up in the seat. Everything was plug and play for me. Really simple actually!

    The throttle cable was a little tight and caused the engine to rev a little, but after pushing the throttle tube all the way to the end of the bar, there isn't a problem. The plastic around the throttle cable is a little tight, but it doesn't rev anymore when I turn lock to lock.
    Same bars I went with. I put them on because they were cheap and I was low on cash. I intended to go with far bars, but I havent bent these yet.
    09 WR250X
    08 SM450R

  13. #13
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    Apr 2012
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    Bandung, Indonesia
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    Quote Originally Posted by DustyXB View Post
    Im curious as to how you ran your throttle cable. I've got the pro taper kx highs and whenever I turn full lock to the left my cable will tighten up and actually rev the motor. Kinda dangerous when I'm parking.
    maybe U use too high handlebar?? Im using low bend handlebar and low Raiser,, just a little higher and wider...
    I just pull the cable, make it go straight to the throttle,,, when I turn full left, the cable tighten up a little but not rev the motor..

    I'll post the pic soon... *its almost night here, not good for takin a pic hahaha

    Btw,, my friend told me, the other way...U can change the throttle and clutch cable with KLX 250s's OEM... its a bit Longer *He said

  14. #14
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    Apr 2012
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    Bandung, Indonesia
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    Default

    Im doing the throttle cable like this ...








    just like that

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