Engine complete tear down step by step with pics

[06-530rr]

Ok well it's time to rebuild my 06 510. It has a tad over 12,000 miles and never let me down. I figured I would give her a complete rebuild including a 530 kit. I took all the pics to use as a reference for assembly but maybe it will help someone here.


Do not pull on the oil line it is held in by the cam holders


Remove the cam holders. Do not mix them up but they are numbered 1-4


Set them aside for now.


Remove the 4 head nuts AND washers. You will need to turn the engine upside down to get the washers out.



Remove the cam chain tensioner

[06-530rr]

Ok removal of the head and cam chain.
Remove the cam chain tensioner


Remove the stator cover and the neutral switch


Remove the brass pin and spring from the neutral switch

[06-530rr]

Remove flywheel nut


Remove the flywheel


Attach all parts together in order



Remove the waterpump this will allow you to pull the gear up slide off the cam chain. Let it drop into the flywheel area.


Remove the two bolts on the left side of the head


Remove the two 13mm nuts on the bottom of the head studs. One fwd and one aft.

[06-530rr]

Remove the head
Remove the cylinder bolt


Remove all case bolts marking them in order


Attach case splitter. This is a husqvarna made splitter. Sure it was 180.00 but made light work of splitting the case.

[06-530rr]

Cases split!


VERY IMPORTANT!! This shim must go back in. Pay close attention to it.


This shows the counter ballancer alignment.


Next remove the clutch cover and clutch and basket paying attention to the fat washer on the back


Remove the cover marking the order of the bolts


Cover removed

[06-530rr]

Pay attention to the orings there are two. One for the oil filter and one sitting in the oil pump


The nut is reverse threads. Right to loosen


Remove this little gear taking notice of the thin washer. Once the gear assembly from the crank is removed reinstall the gear


Remove the gear and spacers and attach together in order


Using a mallet lightly tap the crank out. Your done!!

[06-530rr]

Here is my 12k cylinder and piston. Piston had no blowby and the walls were near perfect still. I have no doubt it could gave gone another 8-10k. Except the lower rod bearings are a known weak point

[juicehall]

Piston looks about perfect as far as wash maybe a little lean. I can't believe how nice the cylinder looks

Good Job

Is you 530 kit in yet?

[06-530rr]

No 530 yet. I'm sending the head off for inspection, the crank to have the counterballancer gear pulled. And installed on my new RR crank. Since they don't have a counterballancer.
And since I'm waiting I'm powdercoating the cases that matte black like my covers.

I'm also rebuilding a 04 450. The lower rod bearing went on that motor blowing the cylinder. So I'm giving my buddy my 510 cylinder and crank. But he is putting a new rod in my old crank.

[J.R.]

Sweet! Your engine is a testament to Husqvarna's reliability

[J.R.]

• Don't forget to put the crank spacer back on the STATOR side!
  
• Also wise to inspect the oil pump and the transmission shift drum. They can wear out over time. Especially check the oil pump, it's a vital component to your engine.
  
• When pulling out the transmission, start by removing the shift forks and their shafts. you can then CAREFULLY pull out the two trans shaft assemblies together, same time. Be careful not to lose any gears as some of the parts are loose and can slide off. Inspect transmission for unusual wear and damage. If it's good to reuse as-is, then wrap up the two shafts together as one assembly. Use plastic shrink wrap and they'll be assembled, protected and nothing will slide off.

[brian]

excellent thread ! made it a sticky

[pineapplebrah]

Very impressive.

[06-530rr]

Thanks Brian!!

This is the crank spacer. When you split the case it may be stuck to the bearing or may be sitting on the crank by the ballancer like in the second pic. That's a 04 450 that blew. I'm rebuilding that one too.

[06-530rr]

I will be doing a very detailed step by step with pics on assembly. I sent my head off for inspection and my new crank to have the counter ballancer gear installed. Will be mid April

[06-530rr]

For rebuild this kit has every o-ring/seal you will need.

[sädde]

This is awesome, now see how to do, what to take particular attention. Thank you for sharing this with us

[Tech 3]

Jreat Job 530rr thanks for your time

[06-530rr]

You guys are welcome. Since it was torn apart I'm powdercoating the cases. The clutch cover was done previously that's why there is a nick

[FnSquirrel]

This is awesome! Anyone know if there are any big differences between how this 510 comes apart and how the 610 does?

[sädde]

What else is worth my change when I put that 530cc kit attached, bike is driven about 5500 km and on the street, all maintenance done on time, etc.
Stock parts etc...

[06-530rr]

I was also advised to check my oil pump. Take the big gear off and spin the pump and make sure it spins freely. Mine sticks a tad in one spot so I'm replacing it.

[sädde]

This kind of a silly question.
Taken out of the cylinder head and the cylinder away from the motor when the motor is attached to the frame

[06-530rr]

This kind of a silly question.
Taken out of the cylinder head and the cylinder away from the motor when the motor is attached to the frame

I'm not sure if you can pull the cylinder With tge engine in or not. Actually no because you can't remove tge head

[sädde]

I'm not sure if you can pull the cylinder With tge engine in or not. Actually no because you can't remove tge head

ok thanks for your reply.
So take engine from the frame first, then disassembly cylinder head/cylinder from the engine, right

[06-530rr]

I thought I should ad this as I discovered one missing from my motor yesterday. And at 15 bucks apiece, possible assembly without it, so I thought I would post it up. With the cases split the shafts holding the transmission fork can slid out causing the nub that sits in the shift drum to come out. This is a easy part to loose.

[06-530rr]

Ok to remove the counter ballancer bearing. You will need a pilot bearing puller. I bought this snap one one today. I will need to modify it but I worked ok. You must make sure the tool is centered on the bearing and the feet are even and flat on the case.

[06-530rr]

Just doing some odds and ends until the rest of the bearings show up. Notice the yellow stuff? It's a special type of non drying epoxy primer. I'm using it to prevent any corrosion caused by disimaliar metals. (steel bolt, aluminum case) I like how the fresh powdercoating came out.

[kumz]

Oh, that's the yellow stuff. Thought it was some kind of anti seize or something

[pineapplebrah]

I like how the fresh powdercoating came out.

Turned out amazing. Who'd you go to for the powdercoating?

[06-530rr]

Well I pulled a boner move and nicked up my shift drum good. So I got a new one on order. Here is the deal... From 04-2009 the shift drum is billet aluminum. Cost around 80.00 in 2010 they went to a steel drum. Cost 80.00. So naturally I went with the steel drum.

[06-530rr]

Attention.... I thought this was worth a pic and explanation so nobody makes an very easily overlooked mistake. When you are change all your bearings you will most likely take them all out at once. Or at least the bearing retainer screws and retainers. Since they can only go in one way. This is all fine and dandy, however all the screws are the same length EXCEPT for two as you can see. Now these two screws belong to the secondary shaft bearing retainer. I purposely put the long ones in to show you what will happen. The screw will stick out to far and will bind the starter gears. So just remember this on installation. Hope this helps.

[jrddawgyo]

Thanks a lot for the pics...doing a complete teardown on my 9000 mile husky this week. Broke a gear tooth off somewhere in the tranny but nothings blown. Guaranteed my cylinder will look like this due the the fact that these bikes are incredibly reliable and built super strong. I appreciate your time as this will be my first huksy teardown (done many asian motocross bikes). Tear it up!

[SwitchThrottle]

Did you replace any of the factory helicoils with time-serts while you were in there? I ask because I had one of the helicoils decide it didn't like being in it's hole during one of my oil changes.

[06-530rr]

Did you replace any of the factory helicoils with time-serts while you were in there? I ask because I had one of the helicoils decide it didn't like being in it's hole during one of my oil changes.

What factory helicoil? I didn't see single one and I ran a tap tree every bolt hole

[SwitchThrottle]

Perhaps it was an "upgrade" in 2008.



The one I pulled out was in the forward hole on the plate for the rear oil screen.

BTW...the case halves look awesome.

[06-530rr]

Humm I'll double check when I get home. Are you the only owner? I do know the screen cover and other area get stripped easily so a helicoil isn't uncommon.

Thank you! It's been a long time coming. I'm starting tge assembly thread today. Makes the job much slower lol but I hope it's helpful to others in tge future

[SwitchThrottle]

Humm I'll double check when I get home. Are you the only owner? I do know the screen cover and other area get stripped easily so a helicoil isn't uncommon.

Thank you! It's been a long time coming. I'm starting tge assembly thread today. Makes the job much slower lol but I hope it's helpful to others in tge future

Yup...original owner. Trust me...I was completely baffled when it "cross threaded" with only my finger power, then pulled out the helicoil like a stretched spring. Luckily my local Napa had the time-sert kit I needed in stock.

[06-530rr]

Weird... You are correct sir.

[jrddawgyo]

Hey back again....I started the teardown of my 06 husky and im stuck at one little spot: I cant for the life of me get the cam chain gear off the crank shaft. How did you go about doing this to your bike? I was pleased to find that my cylinder is still cross hatched like yours, I pulled apart the valves and the seats are perfect, no cupping, and the ring end gap is perfect. This motor has 10000 miles on stock everything. Pretty neat seeing how good the husky quality is....thanks!

[06-530rr]

If memory serves I left it on. It should pop off when you use the case splitter

[johncr250]

Great job! The cylinder has virtually no wear on it!

[tombo]

Very helpfull

next week i'm starting with my 570SMR overhaul.

might ask a question or 2 during the job

[tls25rs]

One thing I learned the hard way, by destroying a case half because I was impatient, is if the gears do come off the transmission shaft pay very close attention to the direction which the gear faces on the shaft when you put them back together. There is a shoulder on the last gear that goes onto one of the shafts in a particular manner. One way it is correct and all will be good, the other it makes the shaft slightly longer than will fit between the case halves. It is not a big difference at all but enough to cause headaches and wreck things if you are impatient like I was.

The other thing I did wrong was to not know that if things are not going together smoothly and completely than take them apart and figure out why. If things are done correctly the shafts, bearings and case halves should go together with very little effort. (That is if you are heating up the bearings etc. to make the clearances easier to work with) When I did it incorrectly the cases were almost all the way together, very small gap left between them, and they just stopped moving, I just figured that maybe the bearings had cooled to the point of being snug on the shafts and I would use the hardware to snug up the case halves. Big mistake on my part. If everything goes correctly the case halves should pretty much fall together and the hardware will just be needed to hold them there. This is what happend when I got new cases and did it the second time LOL.

Hopefully my stupidity will save someone else from having the same issue I did.

Joel