My New Husky AND My TERRIBLE Luck

[huskyfrk]

falcon does superb work, has done a ton of modified rotax cart cranks for me and friends, superb work. You will have a lot more vibs w that 530 kit. You ought to have everything rebalanced if you go that route.. IMHO

[Romanousky]

falcon does superb work, has done a ton of modified rotax cart cranks for me and friends, superb work. You will have a lot more vibs w that 530 kit. You ought to have everything rebalanced if you go that route.. IMHO

I really haven't heard anyone say anything about excessive vibes. Not that your wrong or anything but do you speak from experience on this....I'm sure it increases a little simply because it is more reciprocating mass but since I haven't heard anyone complain I didn't think much of it.

When you say "everything rebalanced" are you just talking about the crank or are there other things? Are they not well balanced from the factory?

I wonder if the counterbalancer from a 530RR is different than the one in the 510? I may have a new topic to investigate.

Thanks for the input

[06-530rr]

I doubt the vibes are noticeable between the 510 and 530. And the counterbalancer is the same. Don't over think here

[Romanousky]

I doubt the vibes are noticeable between the 510 and 530. And the counterbalancer is the same. Don't over think here

I agree as I have not heard of any make complaints of vibration.

Quote from Jeff "I have never heard about vibration problems with the 530, but I have never personally rode one. The 530 in the RR was more based on the TC engine and did not even have a balancer in it."

[Romanousky]

So the bike shop wanted $70 to press out bearings and then press in the new ones. I wanted a press so I went to the infamous Harbor Freight but couldn't bring myself to buy such a piece of shit press for $130 so I made my own. I picked up all the steel at a scrap yard and grabbed a 20 ton bottle jack for cheap. The springs are from an old trampoline....only cost $107 total and a little elbow grease and viola.....

And it worked like a charm....

[06-530rr]

Nice work!! What bearings

[HELLBOUND]

Are there supports under bolts to prevent slipping on base when applying pressure?

[Romanousky]

Pressed out all the transmission bearings.

Yes...there are blocks welded under the I beams. I could have spent a lot of time to make it awesome but for 3 hours I'm happy with it. I don't plan on using it much..

[juicehall]

Nice pole barn!

[Romanousky]

Nice pole barn!

Keeps everything nice a dirty...I tried to keep all my shit in a garage but it don't fit

[HELLBOUND]

Pressed out all the transmission bearings.

Yes...there are blocks welded under the I beams. I could have spent a lot of time to make it awesome but for 3 hours I'm happy with it. I don't plan on using it much..

Came out nice, at least you know it will hold up.

[Romanousky]

Came out nice, at least you know it will hold up.

Thats for sure! This sumbitch is pretty beefy..

YAYYYY! Got my first new bike parts.... not gonna fix my current problem but.....

[huskyfrk]

hard to believe you would go to all the trouble to rebuild and not rebalance. the bigger piston will weight more, thus it should be rebalanced. a different rod will also weight different. if you are going to do it right. and so you guys know, george at uptite has carillo rods for the 450, 510 and 610 in stock.

[J.R.]

hard to believe you would go to all the trouble to rebuild and not rebalance. the bigger piston will weight more, thus it should be rebalanced. a different rod will also weight different. if you are going to do it right. and so you guys know, george at uptite has carillo rods for the 450, 510 and 610 in stock.

Is that what he rebuilds with? Are they one piece like Falicon and OEM? Who does balancing and what does it cost?

[Romanousky]

hard to believe you would go to all the trouble to rebuild and not rebalance. the bigger piston will weight more, thus it should be rebalanced. a different rod will also weight different. if you are going to do it right. and so you guys know, george at uptite has carillo rods for the 450, 510 and 610 in stock.

I'm definitely not against rebalancing. I probably will have it done just because it is a minimal expense but I also don't think that it is crucial by any means.....I know too many people that have done big bores (including myself) and never rebalanced (except my snowmobile because it hangs out at 8K for long periods of time) . Even the few guys I've spoken too that have done the 530 kit have not rebalanced. That being said, it is a valid point and probably a good idea given the delicate nature of the Husky engine and I will look into it further.

Thanks for the tip on the carillo rods. Have you tried the carillo and, if so, are you as satisfied as you were with the Falicon? Any preference on customer service with the two companies?

[FnSquirrel]

Hey i'm new to this forum and to my Husky 450 but reading how these events unfolded for you makes me a little worried. :-p I just downloaded one of those repair manuals in the thread and am trying to learn as much as i can from your experience. Thanks for keeping it up to date! Looking forward to seeing how this turns out for you. Hang in there.

[huskyfrk]

my experience w carillo rods was in some seriously modified offshore race engines,. but i have seen the carillo rods in stock at uptite. george orders them in multiples, like dozens at a a time. not sure if you can order them direct from carillo, but wouldn't hurt to ask. balancing, do you want it on the money or just ballpark close ?? if i was spending the money on a new top end, crank rods, head work, valves, the cost and time to balance is small compared to your investment. i would ask george about the suzuki rod in the husky's ?? ; which came first, the 450 italian motors, or the drz 400 ?? I know which way i would go. but i never buy on price point.

[06-530rr]

As far as the Carrillo rods go..yes they make a rod for us. But they don't sell a lower rod bearing. Now you can use a oem husky bearing but they do not sell tgem separate. Now I believe someone figured out that the lower rod bearing is the same on some Jap bike. JR was looking for it. Now I talked to some people that tested the Carrillo, falcon, and oem rods. There was no major difference on a stockish motor. The rod on our bikes is not a problem area.
As far as crank balancing. I was considering it, but after talking to the husky motor guru's the said unless you have a full built race engine its unnessarry. Afterall theses bikes have a crank ballancer already. Which helps. My bike is butter smooth. Interesting that the RR's don't have a ballancer

[J.R.]

my experience w carillo rods was in some seriously modified offshore race engines,. but i have seen the carillo rods in stock at uptite. george orders them in multiples, like dozens at a a time. not sure if you can order them direct from carillo, but wouldn't hurt to ask. balancing, do you want it on the money or just ballpark close ?? if i was spending the money on a new top end, crank rods, head work, valves, the cost and time to balance is small compared to your investment. i would ask george about the suzuki rod in the husky's ?? ; which came first, the 450 italian motors, or the drz 400 ?? I know which way i would go. but i never buy on price point.

Wait, what? Suzuki rod in a Husky? Did I miss some posts in this thread?

As far as the Carrillo rods go..yes they make a rod for us. But they don't sell a lower rod bearing. Now you can use a oem husky bearing but they do not sell tgem separate. Now I believe someone figured out that the lower rod bearing is the same on some Jap bike. JR was looking for it. Now I talked to some people that tested the Carrillo, falcon, and oem rods. There was no major difference on a stockish motor. The rod on our bikes is not a problem area.
As far as crank balancing. I was considering it, but after talking to the husky motor guru's the said unless you have a full built race engine its unnessarry. Afterall theses bikes have a crank ballancer already. Which helps. My bike is butter smooth. Interesting that the RR's don't have a ballancer

Link to thread about a KLX lower end bearing. Supposedly a KLX bearing is the same. But I'm waiting to hear back from the guy after he talks to his dealer.

[Romanousky]

Hooray for new parts.....still not helping me with my current situation but I will be prepared for summer time.

[J.R.]

Hooray for new parts.....still not helping me with my current situation but I will be prepared for summer time.

Whatcha get??

Edit, guess I shoulda waited for you to edit your post with a pic

[Romanousky]

If anyone is watching this I just wanted to let you know that I haven't given up yet.

Paul @ GP cycles let me know that my crank IS salvageable. He is going to rebuild it once I figure out which route I am going with the 530 Kit.

Here is why I have to wait for him to rebuild it:
1. I am having the crank balanced....not a very small charge by the way (apprx $180)
- He cannot rebuild the crank before it is balanced
- He cannot balance the crank before I choose which 530 kit I am going to use (Husqvarna or GP Cycles) because they have different piston weights
- I am waiting for whichever option becomes available first. Then he will balance and rebuild.

Next, I sent Paul my Intake Cam and he is exchanging it for a "slightly" used one.

And finally...I got another new part in the mail. I haven't read one bad thing about it yet so I figured it would shave a few seconds

[06-530rr]

DO NOT I repeat DO NOT put it on and try it. You will pump out the piston and it can and will snap the slave housing.

[Romanousky]

DO NOT I repeat DO NOT put it on and try it. You will pump out the piston and it can and will snap the slave housing.

Are you kiddin me!! I've seen all kinds a guys running these...do they have aftermarket brake setups or something? I'm pissed, frickin wastin money everywhere. I do appreciate your fast response and saving me from further damage!

[06-530rr]

No haha I should clairfy that if you put it on with the slave not bolted to the engine. That it will push the piston against the clip that holds it and crack your housing. I know your motor is out and like all of us are anxious to put new parts on and try it. Put it on. Best lever ever, just don't use it until the slave is bolted back up to the motor. Sorry for the confusion

[Romanousky]

No haha I should clairfy that if you put it on with the slave not bolted to the engine. That it will push the piston against the clip that holds it and crack your housing. I know your motor is out and like all of us are anxious to put new parts on and try it. Put it on. Best lever ever, just don't use it until the slave is bolted back up to the motor. Sorry for the confusion

Damn smart ass

Thanks for clarifying. Actually, I'm stock piling parts until I get the bike fixed. I'll probably even ride it a bit without certain performance parts so that I can tell the difference....however I'll only have about 7 miles worth of real 510 experience so maybe I should just start installing

Where you gettin the 530 kit for your rebuild? I need one now!

[06-530rr]

Halls should have them in anyday. I know justin at alpine has some coming too

[Romanousky]

More Stuff that isn't exactly necessary

[J.R.]

Did you get the Cemoto plastics from moto-plastics?

[Romanousky]

Did you get the Cemoto plastics from moto-plastics?

Yes sir I did.

[Romanousky]

JR, or anyone else, can you recommend any handguards that go well with stock bars and the levers I have purchased. I love the acerbis on my drz and Crf but have heard good things about cycra. Also, best place to buy?

[J.R.]

I had a set of '06 white tank shrouds ordered through Hall's from Motoplastics. I waited for I think a week or two and ended up having Hall's cancel the order cuz Motoplastics never got back with a response to the order..

I like my Cycra Por-bend's but have been curious about the plastic/composite style. I've seen some other guys take spills on them and they hold up well, seeming to take the force from a hit and rebound back to original shape instead of bending like the aluminum ones sometimes (Not very often) do. Cycra makes some composite sets, and there are others as well. Not sure which ones I saw in action but they seemed to hold up

[Romanousky]

I had a set of '06 white tank shrouds ordered through Hall's from Motoplastics. I waited for I think a week or two and ended up having Hall's cancel the order cuz Motoplastics never got back with a response to the order..

I'm not too surprised. I placed the order, paid through PayPal, never got a confirmation, about 3 days later I get a tracking number (not shipped but they started the process), it stayed that way for 4 days and then shipped. Big lack of communication but I can't really complain about the price

[J.R.]

I thought the price was about the same as OEM.. Was it not?

[Romanousky]

Not quite in action on the streets but I have finally recieved my parts. Thank you Juicehall for putting together my large order of random parts! All neatly packaged with part numbers

Also got my crank back from GP cycles. As well as a "new to me" intake cam with properly aligned sprocket.

And i have also recieved my 530 kit from Hall's Cycles. Thanks Jeff!




Today I got all the transmission/main bearings pressed in place without any troubles.

[Romanousky]

Has anyone ever pressed the timing gear onto the counter balancer? It is a pressed fit along with a locating pin. I'll probably heat the sprocket to about 225 and throw the counterbalancer in the fridge but any pointers would be helpful at this point.

[J.R.]

And the rebuild commences!

You sound like you have the counterbalancer figured out. Use assembly lube to help it press on smoothly so the metal doesn't gall up on the mating surfaces. Make sure the hear is pressed on square to the shaft. If you want to double check, use V blocks or something similar to spin the balancer on and watch the gear for runout. But you shouldn't have any issues because you have a flange to press the gear against.

Double check the matching gear on the crank. It too is located with a pin, but the pin is only used for assembly and doesn't stay in the assembly. Just double check that the gear was pressed on in the right orientation and the alignment holes are aligned

[Tecates4Ever]

looks a lot like my apartment with the new parts everywhere. did you have a factory rod put in the crank? I'm getting my crank from falicon this week. how tough were the bearings to do. will i need to use a press or can i use a bearing installer and hammer?

[Romanousky]

looks a lot like my apartment with the new parts everywhere. did you have a factory rod put in the crank? I'm getting my crank from falicon this week. how tough were the bearings to do. will i need to use a press or can i use a bearing installer and hammer?

Yes, I went with the factory rod. You'll have to let us know how the falicon works out. The bearings were not too difficult at all. I heated the cases and some of the bearings just fell in place. The mains did take some good pressure from bearing press. I think that you will HAVE to heat the cases to get the mains in with a hammer/bearing installer. Maybe not but that was my experience.

[Romanousky]

Hey JR,

Good to know someone is keeping on eye on me here

What locating holes are you speaking about for the gear on the crank. I would hope that GP cycles would have checked that but I wasn't exactly impressed with my experience. Here is a photo if you can tell anything from this. I'm going to hold off on installing it until I can confirm that it is in the right location. Thanks for the help

[J.R.]

Put your bearings in the freezer overnight and then heat the cases right before you pull the bearings out of the freezer to install.

Notice the smallest hole on that gear? There is a hole the same size on the crank and a pin is used to keep the gear located while being pressed on. Then the pin pulled out. Look onto the small hole and see if you can see the hole on the crank, they should be lined up. I don't remember the particular orientation of the gear when correctly installed, but the holes should be lined up.

[Romanousky]

I'm pissed! The gear on the crank is about 180 degrees out of position. I specifically asked gp cycles to take a look at this and correct it if it had rotated. You can even see the arrow drawn with a sharpie on the crank lobe. It is pointing at the locating hole in the lobe that is supposed to be aligned with the small hole in the gear. But apparently no one felt the need to fix this. This would have been much easier to remedy when the crank was apart but now I have to deal with it.

There are two threaded holes in the gear to aid in removal but I cannot find the correct bolts for the life of me. Hey Jeff, do you have the tool for this? Also, where do you get a 4mm pin that is used to align the two holes?

[J.R.]

Hey JR,

Good to know someone is keeping on eye on me here

What locating holes are you speaking about for the gear on the crank. I would hope that GP cycles would have checked that but I wasn't exactly impressed with my experience. Here is a photo if you can tell anything from this. I'm going to hold off on installing it until I can confirm that it is in the right location. Thanks for the help

I just looked closer at the pic, I can see the small locating hole on crank through one of the larger holes on the gear, 2 holes up from the small locating hole. In other words the holes aren't lined up..

I don't think there are any special exceptions where those holes wouldn't line up, but there may be something I don't know.. In reality, as long as the teeth are in the right position so that the counterbalancer can be in the right position, in reference to the crank. But the repair manual says to line up the dots on the counterbalancer and crank gears, but you can't if the crank gear isn't in the right position...

Have you called GP?


Here is a 510 crank I had rebuilt, the gear was aligned with the crank by using a pin in the hole. I also had it welded for sake of mind because the gear had either been installed incorrectly during the first rebuild, or it slipped somehow. I don't think it was the latter because it was still a tight press fit. But comparing your pic to mine: the gear looks like it's in the correct position on your crank, I used the two teeth over the lower end pin to compare both pics. So you just won't be able to use the dots on the gears to line up your balancer when assembling.

[Romanousky]

I have not called GP as of yet but given my experience thus far if someone told me that the gear was properly set I'm not sure if I would trust it. Besides, why wouldn't you use the factory supplied holes to align it? Now I can't use the pin dots on both sprockets to align them. Bottom line, I want to correctly position this thing and then I'll TIG them together like your photo.

Edit: GP marked the hole to show me that it wasn't lined up....but didn't do anything about it! WTF!

[Romanousky]

Seriously, does anyone have the tool to remove the counterbalance drive gear on the crank shaft? It appears to use an M6 size bolt with threads that are 0.75 or 0.80 mm. No one in town sells a bolt like this. I could have a machine shop make it for me but I cant confirm the thread pitch!!

[06-530rr]

Call jeff at halls. He just put a new gear on my RR crank. Should be here tomorrow.

[Romanousky]

Call jeff at halls. He just put a new gear on my RR crank. Should be here tomorrow.

Just wrote to Jeff to get a price. Thanks dude

[Romanousky]

So.... I threw my crank on some V-blocks to measure runout and it is way out of spec. Runout is limited to .0019". I am showing about 4 thou on either end. However, the bearing journal runnout is in spec at 0.0006" (0.0008" is the limit).

[Romanousky]

So, I've gained some additional knowledge through this that I thought I would pass on.

Hardness of crank pin: 60 Rockwell C. I took this measurement because most of the crank issues have been blamed on the crank pin. Even mine at 2,000 miles was showing galling and even a sharp groove that went 2/3rds the way around the pin right at the edge of the needle bearing. The hardness tester at work is not capable of getting an accuragte measurement of the needle bearings themselves as this is very important. Delta H between roller and race plays a significant role in rotating fatigue life. If anyone has the hardness of the needles it would be interesting to know.

Bearings:

So I cross referenced the transmission bearings with SKF should Husky run low on any parts and you need something in a pinch. Of course, the only ones that are completely custom made are the Main bearings so I do not have those. My bearing Rep is a good guy and usually nails everything I need but I will not take responsibility if these are incorrect. Just trying to pass on some useful info.

8000 43567 (52x25x15) – SKF 6205JEM
8000 17040 (42x20x12) – SKF 6004JEM
8A00 19768 (42x15x13) – SKF 6302JEM
8000 85395 (42x25x9) – SKF 61905
8000 65884 (37x25x7) – SKF 61805
8000 99847 (40x17x12) – SKF 6203NRJEM

Edit: Pricewise they are not that much cheaper than buying through Husqvarna.

[Romanousky]

Call jeff at halls. He just put a new gear on my RR crank. Should be here tomorrow.

Just got word from Jeff. They don't use the puller. They just thread bolts through the holes and back the gear off with the bolts up against the crank lobe. His tech said they aren't pressed on very tight. He said if they are tight, they use flat bar puller.

This still doesn't help me because I can't find an M6x0.75mm bolt. I did however find a die so..... Guess I'll be making my own bolts.