My New Husky AND My TERRIBLE Luck

[Romanousky]

Just got an email back from Jeff at Hall's. The 530 kit is due end of March. This in itself is borderline but lets look at the pros and cons.

Is this going to be straight bolt and go or am I going to have to re-map and change fueling again?

Is there really much of a gain with the 530? Any losses?

I am really interested in gaining some bottom end because I honestly wasn’t too impressed during my whopping total of maybe 7 miles on the bike. The top end is definitely strong but I think my dizzer has more grunt at low rpm. The front end just didn’t want to come off the ground very easily (even in 2nd gear).

[xlink]

my manual lists the part as:

(8000 39523) Estrattore volano completo/ Flywheel puller/ Extracteur pour volant/ Auszieher für Schwungrad/ Extractor volante

they maybe the same...if you can't find one I''l ship you mine just to try it...shiping is going to be $5 so what do you have to lose...

[Meeh]

Just got an email back from Jeff at Hall's. The 530 kit is due end of March. This in itself is borderline but lets look at the pros and cons.

Is this going to be straight bolt and go or am I going to have to re-map and change fueling again?

Is there really much of a gain with the 530? Any losses?

I am really interested in gaining some bottom end because I honestly wasn’t too impressed during my whopping total of maybe 7 miles on the bike. The top end is definitely strong but I think my dizzer has more grunt at low rpm. The front end just didn’t want to come off the ground very easily (even in 2nd gear).

Getting the fueling set up right helps. My former SM510R power wheelied in fourth from low revs. Had a power commander, devil exhaust and two teeth extra compared to stock on the rear sprocket.

[juicehall]

800039523
FLYWHEEL PULLER
28.27

I'm glad Halls has a eta on the 530 kit. When I called Husky they told me they didn't have a clue when that would be. The 530 adds a little low end grunt but if I was building another motor I wouldn't do it. JR and a couple of guys were out on a ride last fall and I got schooled in a drag race against a Stock 510 just sayin! Maybe my jetting wasn't as good as his but I had a Better exhaust to. If the 530 kit is going to be in stock soon I will give you a better price than halls as well. For some reason 530 rr dude likes to be my friend but refuses to recommend me for parts! WTF STEVE-0? I guess he doesn't like that I don't stock as many parts so orders take 2-3 days longer to get. Anyway I sent you a price list.

[Romanousky]

Getting the fueling set up right helps. My former SM510R power wheelied in fourth from low revs. Had a power commander, devil exhaust and two teeth extra compared to stock on the rear sprocket.

That sounds Awesome! That is what I was planning to get with this bike.....maybe the mapping is screwed up.

This is what was done to the bike:
Cat was removed from exhaust
Obviously a new slip-on was installed
O2 sensor removed and plugged

The owner said that it ran way way way better after he got it remapped at the dealer. The reciept showed he paid $50 for the remap. $50 doesn't get you much in a bike shop but I assume that this was a new standardized curve installed using the iBeat?????

This is all I know.....and that it ain't gonna power wheelie in 4th if it has the same power as before. Maybe something was wrong before I even took possession. Sure seam to run good though.

[Meeh]

That sounds Awesome! That is what I was planning to get with this bike.....maybe the mapping is screwed up.

This is what was done to the bike:
Cat was removed from exhaust
Obviously a new slip-on was installed
O2 sensor removed and plugged

The owner said that it ran way way way better after he got it remapped at the dealer. The reciept showed he paid $50 for the remap. $50 doesn't get you much in a bike shop but I assume that this was a new standardized curve installed using the iBeat?????

This is all I know.....and that it ain't gonna power wheelie in 4th if it has the same power as before. Maybe something was wrong before I even took possession. Sure seam to run good though.

Getting the O2 sensor removed and plugged is night and day from stock but as you have noticed not perfect yet. The $50 reciept was probably for plugging the O2 sensor (that automatically switches the mapping from stock to "race") and adjusting the TPS. Not much more you can do on an '08 ECU. The '09 ECU is a bit better. It cleans up the idle (if you compare them back to back you actually hear the engine run smoother) and makes it pull a bit harder. Also the '09 ECU will give you options for adjusting the fueling but not much though.

Power commander or something comparable helps a lot with getting the fueling spot on. You won't actually need an '09 ECU when you go this route as you're able to fully adjust the fueling with these things.

But first things first and try and get her fixed

[J.R.]

Romanousky, Make sure you wear your helmet with the Go-Pro too You can never be too careful when wrenches are flyin in the garage

800039523
FLYWHEEL PULLER
28.27

I'm glad Halls has a eta on the 530 kit. When I called Husky they told me they didn't have a clue when that would be. The 530 adds a little low end grunt but if I was building another motor I wouldn't do it. JR and a couple of guys were out on a ride last fall and I got schooled in a drag race against a Stock 510 just sayin! Maybe my jetting wasn't as good as his but I had a Better exhaust to. If the 530 kit is going to be in stock soon I will give you a better price than halls as well. For some reason 530 rr dude likes to be my friend but refuses to recommend me for parts! WTF STEVE-0? I guess he doesn't like that I don't stock as many parts so orders take 2-3 days longer to get. Anyway I sent you a price list.

Lemme throw a wrench in this and make it even more interesting.. I can now supply OEM Husky parts too I may not be able to get your prices though. But I'll make up for it with other parts I sell!

[montibank]

Shitty luck sorry to hear it man. If it makes you feel any better I had my KTM 530 catastrophically fail once in 12000 miles and the cases have been split twice so you are not alone. Weee exotics are fun aren't they?

My $10k toy is rapidly approaching the $20k mark - don't tell the Mrs.

[Romanousky]

Thanks Monti but I wouldn't be quite so pissed if I got ride this thing more than 30,000 ft before the investment doubled. Good thing there is no Mrs. Involved on this one.

[johncr250]

Glad your ok, if that happened on a curve you might not of walked away!

[Romanousky]

So I can officially say that the flywheel puller for the 610 does NOT fit the 510.

Thanks for trying Xlink...I'll get it back in the mail this week for you.

[J.R.]

So I can officially say that the flywheel puller for the 610 does NOT fit the 510.

Thanks for trying Xlink...I'll get it back in the mail this week for you.

I havent checked your thread for a minute, Didnt realize you still needed a puller. I got mine at www.oemcycle.com for $25 shipped, or you can borrow mine

[big_bake]

Wow looks a bit like what happened to my drz. My connecting rod snapped and destroyed my case and cylinder. No problems with the head though. Guess I'm lucky with it being a drz and having parts way more common.

It all happened so fast, I didn't even realize my tire locked up until a few seconds after I was coasting off to the side. I was going about 40 accelerating hard, then it just gave out. For some reason my first reaction was snatch the clutch and brakes (good habits developed I guess.) Oil started to drip, wouldn't even try to turn over. Then it started to rain... Twas a sad day.

[Romanousky]

I havent checked your thread for a minute, Didnt realize you still needed a puller. I got mine at www.oemcycle.com for $25 shipped, or you can borrow mine

PM sent. Thx

[Romanousky]

Wow looks a bit like what happened to my drz. My connecting rod snapped and destroyed my case and cylinder. No problems with the head though. Guess I'm lucky with it being a drz and having parts way more common.

It all happened so fast, I didn't even realize my tire locked up until a few seconds after I was coasting off to the side. I was going about 40 accelerating hard, then it just gave out. For some reason my first reaction was snatch the clutch and brakes (good habits developed I guess.) Oil started to drip, wouldn't even try to turn over. Then it started to rain... Twas a sad day.

Yeah that is a major bummer. I read that thread shortly before I bought my bike. Can't believe that happened to a Dizzer. If that happens to mine I will freak out. Good on ya for grabbing the clutch. Sorry for the loss....should be able to pick up a cheap complete engine. Good luck

[J.R.]

Some helpful info for others wondering about flywheel pullers. The 250/450/510 flywheels have M26x1.5 RH external thread. Apparently only carb bikes. The FI bikes use another thread pitch/diameter combo

So the two-piece flywheel is needed with M26x1.5 internal thread and center bolt to push on the crank end. Like so:


Buy here for $17
http://www.directlineparts.com/product.asp?pid=33623

[outcast623]

Is this the same for 05-10?

[06-530rr]

I'm gonna say this one more time... The new FI bikes use a different puller that the carbed bikes.

[J.R.]

I'm gonna say this one more time... The new FI bikes use a different puller that the carbed bikes.

What thread dia/pitch is on the FI flywheels? I totally forgot you told me that! Sorry StevO

[Romanousky]

You guys are killin me

I just ordered it like 20 minutes ago

[J.R.]

You guys are killin me

I just ordered it like 20 minutes ago

SHit. My bad man... PM inbound..

[06-530rr]

You guys are killin me

I just ordered it like 20 minutes ago

not me man I said it several times and said to pm little squirt cause he has my old one.

I have no idea of the pitch. But I can tell you that they are different. The threads on the FI flywheel area is bigger. And for further reference the covers are different too. The carbed bikes stator is held on the cover by two bolts. The FI is 3.

[Romanousky]

not me man I said it several times and said to pm little squirt cause he has my old one.

I have no idea of the pitch. But I can tell you that they are different. The threads on the FI flywheel area is bigger. And for further reference the covers are different too. The carbed bikes stator is held on the cover by two bolts. The FI is 3.

Your right....JR is Killing me

I PM'd little squirt when you told me about it but no response...

[Little squirt]

Sorry, ive been crazy busy packing chit up and getting ready to move this weekend. I'll see if the tool surfaces once i get moved into my new place next week and un-packed....im sure its in a box somewhere...gotta move twice on 2 diff islands in the next 3 months....my life is very busy with what ever time i have off of work..

cant believe your motor went ka-blu-eee....sux to hear bro..

[Romanousky]

No worries Squirt. I know people are busy and mailing tools across the country (or pond) can't always be at the top of the list. I'm just going to get one turned out on a lathe.

I measured the major diameter at 28mm and thread pitch at 1.0mm if anyone wants to know.

[big_bake]

Yeah that is a major bummer. I read that thread shortly before I bought my bike. Can't believe that happened to a Dizzer. If that happens to mine I will freak out. Good on ya for grabbing the clutch. Sorry for the loss....should be able to pick up a cheap complete engine. Good luck

No worries man. I got a deal on an E motor locally and was back riding in less than a week from blowing the motor up.

I doubt you'll be that lucky. I wish you best of luck getting your bike back on the road.

[outcast623]

No worries Squirt. I know people are busy and mailing tools across the country (or pond) can't always be at the top of the list. I'm just going to get one turned out on a lathe.

I measured the major diameter at 28mm and thread pitch at 1.0mm if anyone wants to know.

From what I have found I believe the actual tool is 27mm 1.0 pitch. Can someone confirm this?

[Tecates4Ever]

the puller i used for my 08 te450 says its 28mmx1.0 right hand thread.

[slick_willy]

good on ya for doing the work yourself! i've had a bit of fun with my huskies over the last 3 years, and at the moment am laid up with a bust ankle after the best one tossed me on a street race a week ago
my 510 dropped a valve and did basically the same as what your did - rod through barrel. so that got upgraded to 530 on the rebuild
my 450 ran the main bearing and scuffed everything when it ground to a halt. rebore and replate and i cleverly sourced all the parts from ebay/halls/somewhere else rather than the local stealership and halved the rebuild cost. it lasted 9 hours before the pin pulled out of the piston and again rod through barrel and mashed valves. it's still in bits but slowly being put back together so i can sell it for about the cost of its 2 rebuilds. my advice - no fast by ferracci/wiseco piston!
my 450rr handles like a dog. an angry one. and it bites. oh and during the first race i did it split the radiators, overheated and scuffed the barrel when the piston cracked.
don't worry though ... by the time my ankle is out of plaster they'll all be going and hopefully i'll be fit to race in mid april!
they're a bit of work, but i reckon in spite of all the failings they're almost worth it! i'd prefer not to have a broken ankle of course....
good luck with the build - hope you're out there enjoying it before i am!

[Romanousky]

Holy Smokes Mr. Willy!! You are not giving me any confidence in the Husky name. I hope you are riding the dogshit out of your bikes to get these results. If mine blows up again after 9 hours I will be picking up my AR-15, not a wrench!

You my friend have some seriously terrible luck. Good on ya for sticking with it. Best of luck to you

[J.R.]

Slick Willy, I've said it before and I'll say it again. I've never heard of anyone having as bad of luck as you! Your poor bikes.. maybe its somethin in the gas they're drinkin

[zknuds]

Really sorry to hear about everything going wrong so soon. My 450 died on me a few months after I picked it up. Just a heads up, if you havent already removed all the gears on the right side of the case, you DONT have to removed the 2 starter gears. But if you choose to do so, make sure you pull out the pins with the gear, otherwise they may fall out when your swapping bearings. And I would recommend checking your oil pump. Doesnt have to be taken out but it'll be easier to check it while everything is apart

[retardmotard]

my bet is to removed the two last gear as well, you'll have more play to fiddle around! take you another 20minutes, but you'll save time fucking around in the long run!

[Romanousky]

So I finally got my flywheel puller and got the cases apart. The puller is officially 28mm x 1mm pitch. The puller was actually being sold for the DRZ 110 and/or the CRF 450X (not sure what years). Anyone looking for the puller just hit me up and I'll help you out (way cheaper than the Husqvarna puller).

Transmission gears look good


The counter balancer shaft is totally bent. I actually can't even get it out of it's bearing (you can not access this bearing from the other side of the case so it is not possible to press out). I had to use a bearing puller to remove the sprocket on the counterbalancer that engages with the sprocket on the crank shaft in order to get the crank out.



Something that I noticed during this disassembly was that the counterbalancer lobe impacted the rod during the failure. I believe that some of the piston bits got between the teeth of the sprockets (on crank and balancer) allowing them to skip teeth and become misaligned / out-of-time.

Also, all bearings in the case are intact and seem fine (I am replacing but they were not the mode of failure). The bearing on the big end of the rod seems fine. No extra play or anything. I also found both circlips in the case in one piece (problem not caused by circlip breaking).

[Romanousky]

So what's up with the crank? Should I just replace it? I am afraid it could be slightly bent due to it's collision with the counterbalancer. Also, when the rod got bent it contacted the lobes of the crank. Not too bad but there are some nicks in it:

[Tecates4Ever]

did your cam gear somehow spin on the camshaft causing it to be out of time which would have caused the valves to hit the piston? I've never heard of it happening before on a husky but I'm just thinking out loud.

[Romanousky]

The timing gear on the crank was fine. Still held in place by the woodruff key. As far as the cam gear on the cam shaft I'm not sure. I didn't pay any attention to it but will look this week. I am pretty sure that the piston hit the valves AFTER the rod broke away from the piston because the contact marks in the piston top are to the side of the valve recesses. Meaning the piston rotated in the cylinder prior to whacking the valves.

What do y'all think about the crank? Any quick easy and cheap wat to find out if it is salvageable?

[Romanousky]

So here is one of the cams. It appears that the sprocket may have possibly slipped 5-8 degrees. I don't know if these marks are from the factory or what. Is the sprocket pressed onto the shaft? Just a tapered press fit? There doesn't appear to be any key in it. Also, since I am replacing all of the bearings how am I supposed to get the sprocket off the shaft? And then the bigger question is how do I press it back on in the right location? Any help here would be great.

[outcast623]

Just looked through the manual and removing the cam sprockets are never covered.

I will agree that by looking at those marks on the sprocket it does look like it rotated.

The only way to get it back to normal would be for someone else to measure their cam timing and you adjust yours back till it matches. (sounds like a pain in the ass to me.)

[Romanousky]

Just looked through the manual and removing the cam sprockets are never covered.

I will agree that by looking at those marks on the sprocket it does look like it rotated.

The only way to get it back to normal would be for someone else to measure their cam timing and you adjust yours back till it matches. (sounds like a pain in the ass to me.)

Thanks for the input. This is what I was afraid of......it just keeps getting better and better. If you ever want to replace the bearings on the cams then you have to take off the sprockets. Because of this I have to believe that there is a way to remove them and press them back on correctly. I really don't want to just replace the cams because at that point the bike really isn't worth fixing. I hope someone chimes in with options, ideas, or just some leads for me to pursue.

Is it possible to just buy a new complete engine?

[Tecates4Ever]

my cams have the same markings and they are in line.

[juicehall]

Have a talk with your machine shop when they look at the head and crank for you and see what it will cost to put the new bearings on. Doesn't matter that the sprocket spun a bit because they have to take it off anyway. My concern is the amount of force it takes to spin a sprocket if it damaged or weakened the cam. Maybe turn to ebay there are couple options on there. BTW msrp is 258. for each cam. Good luck this thing sure has been a nightmare for you... You know it would be a shame if you put the thing together in its current condition and left it outside where some not so honest people could see it. Its not insurance fraud if it really gets stolen!!!!!

[Romanousky]

I appreciate your words of wisdom Juicehall.

You had mentioned going with a 530rr intake cam if I do go with the 530 kit so maybe this is just telling me something......

Here is the exhaust cam. The sprocket and shaft still appear to be aligned.


It makes NO sense seing that the intake valves were only slightly and the exhaust valves looked like this:

[Tecates4Ever]

aren't those your exhaust valves?

[Romanousky]

aren't those your exhaust valves?

WOW!!! I feel like a dumbass! Thank you for pointing out the obvious Was it the high heat discoloration that gave it away? I think a just jumped to a logical explanation without really paying attention

Upon further inspection.....the intake valves are ALSO bent. No markings on the valves themselves but they do not seat properly. About a 1mm gap between valve and seat when reinserted into the head.

I'm not sure what this means for the exhaust cam....it's probably fucked too given the circumstances....sigh

[Tecates4Ever]

haha yea the color gave it away. and this is just another guess, i think that when it blew at a high rpm (said you were going 93) the piston some how held up the intake valves (probably on the intake stroke which explains why the exhaust cam gear didn't get spun out of time) causing them not to move but since the cranks rotating mass couldn't stop so fast it kept going and spun the cam gear on the cam because the valves were held up. this is just an educated guess

[Romanousky]

Okay guys… I just wanted to give an update of what has been going on. I have been doing a lot of behind the scenes information gathering and wanted to share with you all. A lot of this information/suggestions have come from Juicehall, J.R., and 06-530rr (formerly known as Alohar something or other) so I want to give them a big THANKS!

Hopefully by the end of this build this thread will not just contain updates but some useful information to others.

Anyway….I have recently been debating the 530 kit as well as making the engine partially a 530rr (by adding the rr intake cam, valves, springs, etc…). Also looking at aftermarket rods as the stock ones seem to have a few issues and since I will be adding 30 more CC I thought it might be a good idea. Also looked at going to stainless valves….

Carrillo – These guys make high performance rods, pistons, and such. You are looking at $250 for a rod that has a bushing pressed into the small end and that is it. It is then up to you to source the crank pin and bearing (I do not believe you can order these by themselves from Husqvarna but I could be wrong).

Falicon – Primary product is Rods. These guys offer the rod for the SMR 450. They couldn’t verify for me that it would fit a 510 but I think that it would. I would think that the 510 uses the same rod but with the pin location slightly further away from crank shaft centerline (adding stroke). However, I will let someone else confirm this one. You can pick up the Falicon for about $200 plus a pin for $70 plus a bearing for $45. This total price is very close to the stock Husky rod kit. Some other interesting information that was shared is that the SMR 450 rod is a very slightly modified version of the RMZ 450 rod. Now, I don’t know what that means or what the modifications were but apparently the base forging is the same.

Jeff @ Hall’s – The ’08 bikes have all titanium valves. The ’09 and ’10 have titanium intake valves and stainless exhaust valves. Jeff told me that the valves are compatible but does not recommend it. Price difference between SS and Ti is negligible (says Jeff…I don’t actually know). Sounded like you could make the swap if you wanted to by no reason to do so. He said that for my kind of riding (which is mostly street with minimal track) the 530 would be a good buy. He said the RR intake cam, valves, springs, etc… would be a “nice” performance upgrade but probably not worth the money if you’re not racing. For all of the valve stuff and camshaft I would be looking at $700-800. Therefore, I am not doing this mod. I can always do it later and it is an easy swap.

If you have read through this page then you know that my sprocket slipped on the intake cam. I asked Jeff about getting this fixed and he is going to give me a ring back to let me know if his shop will do it. They have the equipment and personnel to do it but wants to check with the shop guy first?? Maybe a liability thing, not sure. He said that on there race bikes they will only press the sprocket on and off to replace the bearings only 1-2 times and then they will Tig weld the sprocket in place because they start to get loose (the RR camshafts have TIG’d sprockets).

As far as Rods are concerned Jeff said that he hasn’t seen too many broken rods come through his shop. He said that the common failure is the Pin that holds the crank lobes together and the rod onto the crank. The pin doesn’t necessarily break but it wears funny and then the Bearing goes out and then BAD THINGS HAPPEN!!! So, based on this information I don’t think that I will be buying aftermarket Rod. I’ve also sent my crank out to Paul @ GP cycles in San Diego so I don’t want to fuck around with getting him aftermarket stuff.

Anyway, that’s all I’ve got for now.

[Tecates4Ever]

i have an 08 would it be smart to put the ss exhaust valves in? were you told not to use falicon?

[Romanousky]

i have an 08 would it be smart to put the ss exhaust valves in? were you told not to use falicon?

I've decided not to do the SS valves for the simple reason of keeping it "factory". Jeff really couldn't give me a reason as to why husky switched it up. My guess is that stainless are cheaper to produce and performance wise the TI simply isn't necessary (on the exhaust side) for this particular engine (again, this is just my assessment). I just don't see any reason to switch but I also don't see any downside either.

I was not told to stay away from Falicon. In fact, if my crank was being rebuilt locally I would probably buy one cuz I could just deliver parts and crank at the same time. It looks like they build a great product and the staff was very helpful and informative. I would without a doubt be buying from them if I heard broken rods were super common on husky's but I haven't and Jeff did not make it sound like a common occurrence. However I would be interested to hear how the falicon pin differs from the stock one as these seams to be a problematic area.

Hope this clarifies things

[yzedf]

SS valves last longer