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My New Husky AND My TERRIBLE Luck

83K views 298 replies 45 participants last post by  Op_Engineer 
#1 ·
So after all of your advice and insight I went out made my purchase of a 2008 SMR 510. I drove all the way down to Sacramento (500 miles) to get a bike that looked super clean and had semi-low miles (2,000). :bannana:

Here she is:





So I get back to my house on Sunday and I just had to take this thing out. Fire it up, let it warm up for a couple minutes, cruise through two miles of twisties and then hit a straight section….this is where I decided to open it up and see how fast it would climb through the gears compared to my Dizzer. I got it into 6th and started winding it up….80...85….90…93 BANG!!!! Rear tire locked up at 93 mph. I should have pulled in the clutch but I was white knuckled on the bars trying to control my skid. :headshake

At this point I had travelled a whopping 2.8 miles on my new ride (not counting the 5 mile test ride in California) and have just destroyed the transmission (so I thought). :damn:

I pushed the bike all the way back to my house and immediately drop the oil expecting some large shards of metal and some gear teeth. I didn’t get much of anything on the drain plug. So I ran a magnet through the oil and ended up with a good amount of fine metal particulate but nothing that says “your F’d”. Then I pulled the metal screens and they had a couple larger flakes but still nothing totally conclusive:




So then I got real excited and was hoping it was just a top end thing (crash into valves, etc…) so I pulled the spark plug and it looked perfect:rolleyes2::



As I’m staring at the plug my eyes drift to the bike which is still slowly trickling oil into a drain pan that is about it overflow. I recall these things only take about 1.5 quarts and the pan has at least 3-4 quarts and then THE SITUATION HITS ME IN THE FACE!:boxing:

I am willing to bet my connecting rod snapped off at the wrist pin and drove itself through the cylinder wall allowing all of the coolant to fill my case. I will try to pull the engine tomorrow and verify but in the meantime I NEED YOUR HELP. I have never owned a husky or a KTM or a Husaberg or anything that is not Japanese so any pointers would be fantastic. Last night I was searching the internet to find the cost of a cylinder, or top end kit, or tranny gears, or crank, or connecting rods, etc…….. I CANT FIND ANYTHING!!! Where do you guys buy parts? I was led to believe that parts for Husky’s were not too difficult to find…WTF? :headscrat

Anyway, I’m going to be asking a lot of questions and I hope that you guys can get me back on the streets as soon as possible. Thanks in advance for the support.
 
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#32 ·
So I was kinda right....rod smashed through cylinder wall....but....rod never broke. Piston cracked and wrist pin ripped away. The big question is....a) did the piston smash the valves which cracked the wrist pin retaining portion of the piston or b) did the wrist pin retaining portion just crack due to a faulty casting leading to catastrophic failure?

Here is the head...bent exhaust valves:
 
#37 ·
I guess that's one way to put it Gino....:lol:

I know I gotta split the cases to check the gers and get the metal bits out but I got a question in the mean time.... How can I tell if the head is any good? Obviously I have to replace the valves (any recommendations here?) but what about the hole through the head that guides the valve? Could it be out of round due to the crash? What about the exhaust cam? Could it be bent from the valve stem slamming into it?

This appears that it is going to be hard on my wallet....so much for that airoh helmet I was gonna pick up.:bs:
 
#39 ·
I guess that's one way to put it Gino....:lol:

I know I gotta split the cases to check the gers and get the metal bits out but I got a question in the mean time.... How can I tell if the head is any good? Obviously I have to replace the valves (any recommendations here?) but what about the hole through the head that guides the valve? Could it be out of round due to the crash? What about the exhaust cam? Could it be bent from the valve stem slamming into it?
You will want to replace the valve guides and chances are the valve seats are toast, so they will need to be re-cut or possibly berillium seats pressed in. A good engine builder will be able to tell you if the head is salvageable.

P.S. don't trade the Honda away, you'll want to ride it when the Husky breaks again ;)
 
#41 ·
So I got most of the engine broke down but I can't split the cases yet because I don't own a flywheel puller. Last flywheel I did used a harmonic balancer......not this one. Probably have to order it.

Anybody know of a good place to send my head to get new seats pressed in? What valves should I buy? Should I replace the springs at the same time?
 
#42 ·
Another Question: Do I need to pull off all these gears in order to split the cases?

They all appear to be fine and due to the separation there is no metal bits in this area. I would rather not take this side apart until I have all the tranny bearings in hand then I can do it all at once....otherwise I will probably forget where something goes or put it in wrong....my memory is a bit weak. :anim_peep:
 
#82 ·
Really sorry to hear about everything going wrong so soon. My 450 died on me a few months after I picked it up. Just a heads up, if you havent already removed all the gears on the right side of the case, you DONT have to removed the 2 starter gears. But if you choose to do so, make sure you pull out the pins with the gear, otherwise they may fall out when your swapping bearings. And I would recommend checking your oil pump. Doesnt have to be taken out but it'll be easier to check it while everything is apart:thumbup:

 
#44 ·
Let me build you an engine so you CAN trade your CRF away :laughingr

Looks like you're making good progress. As far as the stuff in your last picture, Pull the large gear/assembly off the crank. Leave the rest. When you split the cases, your transmission assembly will stay in this case half. That's how I usually do it.. Then the crank ends up in the left half, then is pulled out of there shortly after. Then I can pull the transmission assembly from the right case half when I'm ready to work on that area.

There's a small shim that will go on one side of the crank, Be careful not to loose this and make sure it goes back on the same side of the crank when it's time to reassemble things. Otherwise it will NOT start. the crank will be bound up against the flywheel/starter clutch assembly and it will not be able to freewheel when necessary. I've learned this one the hard way in the past and had to tear the engine down and rebuild :lol: It's been a minute, so I can't remember which side the spacer goes on. (I always use the repair manual when I rebuild so if I forget things it's all right there. YOU SHOULD TOO)

Keep track of things. Film yourself disassembling, take pictures, write notes, whatever you can think of.

Do you have a repair manual there with you? If not, go to husqvarnaoutlet.com and find a repair manual there. Print it, save it to a laptop, phone, wood carving, etc.. Just keep one handy in the garage! :thumbup:
 
#45 ·
Holy shit!! Now that's how you blow a motor! I haven't seen one that bad since I blew up my CRF! It almost looks like what happened to my motor. Mid wheelie, cam chain slipped a few teeth, piston came up and kissed the exhaust valves when they were wide open....yeah it wasn't hard to figure out. When I pulled the header there were pieces of the exhaust valves in the mega bomb.
I'm gonna bet the head is ok, but you might need to clean that cylinder up with some JB weld.

On a side note you might wanta look into a 530 kit. 600.00 for cylinder, piston, rings, gaskets. It is a oem husqvarna part. Give jeff a call at halls cycles. The kits are hard to get but I know he has a few coming in soon.
 
#46 ·
+1 on the 530 kit, that's what I would do if I where in your shoes. :thumbup:


Had a Honda 80 that came straight from the dealer with a warped head.:anim_peep:


Just sayin :lol:
 
#49 ·
Hey J.R....Thanks alot for the step by step. That is the kind of stuff that I need right now. Don't worry, I've been taking alot of photos along the way and I will be wearing the GoPro when I split the cases. I just downloaded the manual at husqvarnaoutlet.com. Keep the info coming...it really helps.

06-530rr - I'm glad that I could impress you with my motor blow'in skillz. JB needs to release some Nik-a-Bond and be back on the streets in no time. Thanks for offering Little Squirts services.

I don't know what puller I need. The internet is giving conflicting information.
Here is the Husky part/puler number: 8000 B0144

Anyone know the size?
 
#51 ·
Let's Debate the 530

Just got an email back from Jeff at Hall's. The 530 kit is due end of March. This in itself is borderline but lets look at the pros and cons.

Is this going to be straight bolt and go or am I going to have to re-map and change fueling again?

Is there really much of a gain with the 530? Any losses?

I am really interested in gaining some bottom end because I honestly wasn’t too impressed during my whopping total of maybe 7 miles on the bike. The top end is definitely strong but I think my dizzer has more grunt at low rpm. The front end just didn’t want to come off the ground very easily (even in 2nd gear).:headscrat
 
#53 ·
Just got an email back from Jeff at Hall's. The 530 kit is due end of March. This in itself is borderline but lets look at the pros and cons.

Is this going to be straight bolt and go or am I going to have to re-map and change fueling again?

Is there really much of a gain with the 530? Any losses?

I am really interested in gaining some bottom end because I honestly wasn’t too impressed during my whopping total of maybe 7 miles on the bike. The top end is definitely strong but I think my dizzer has more grunt at low rpm. The front end just didn’t want to come off the ground very easily (even in 2nd gear).:headscrat
Getting the fueling set up right helps. My former SM510R power wheelied in fourth from low revs. Had a power commander, devil exhaust and two teeth extra compared to stock on the rear sprocket.
 
#52 ·
my manual lists the part as:

(8000 39523) Estrattore volano completo/ Flywheel puller/ Extracteur pour volant/ Auszieher für Schwungrad/ Extractor volante

they maybe the same...if you can't find one I''l ship you mine just to try it...shiping is going to be $5 so what do you have to lose...
 
#54 ·
800039523
FLYWHEEL PULLER
28.27

I'm glad Halls has a eta on the 530 kit. When I called Husky they told me they didn't have a clue when that would be. The 530 adds a little low end grunt but if I was building another motor I wouldn't do it. JR and a couple of guys were out on a ride last fall and I got schooled in a drag race against a Stock 510 just sayin! Maybe my jetting wasn't as good as his but I had a Better exhaust to. If the 530 kit is going to be in stock soon I will give you a better price than halls as well. For some reason 530 rr dude likes to be my friend but refuses to recommend me for parts! WTF STEVE-0? I guess he doesn't like that I don't stock as many parts so orders take 2-3 days longer to get. Anyway I sent you a price list.
 
#57 · (Edited)
Romanousky, Make sure you wear your helmet with the Go-Pro too :D You can never be too careful when wrenches are flyin in the garage



:laughingr Lemme throw a wrench in this and make it even more interesting.. I can now supply OEM Husky parts too :D I may not be able to get your prices though. But I'll make up for it with other parts I sell!
 
#58 ·
Shitty luck sorry to hear it man. If it makes you feel any better I had my KTM 530 catastrophically fail once in 12000 miles and the cases have been split twice so you are not alone. Weee exotics are fun aren't they?

My $10k toy is rapidly approaching the $20k mark - don't tell the Mrs. :D
 
#63 ·
Wow looks a bit like what happened to my drz. My connecting rod snapped and destroyed my case and cylinder. No problems with the head though. Guess I'm lucky with it being a drz and having parts way more common.

It all happened so fast, I didn't even realize my tire locked up until a few seconds after I was coasting off to the side. I was going about 40 accelerating hard, then it just gave out. For some reason my first reaction was snatch the clutch and brakes (good habits developed I guess.) Oil started to drip, wouldn't even try to turn over. Then it started to rain... Twas a sad day.
 
#65 ·
Yeah that is a major bummer. I read that thread shortly before I bought my bike. Can't believe that happened to a Dizzer. If that happens to mine I will freak out. Good on ya for grabbing the clutch. Sorry for the loss....should be able to pick up a cheap complete engine. Good luck
 
#66 · (Edited)
Some helpful info for others wondering about flywheel pullers. The 250/450/510 flywheels have M26x1.5 RH external thread. Apparently only carb bikes. The FI bikes use another thread pitch/diameter combo

So the two-piece flywheel is needed with M26x1.5 internal thread and center bolt to push on the crank end. Like so:


Buy here for $17
http://www.directlineparts.com/product.asp?pid=33623
 
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